Saturday, June 23, 2007 (Chichicastenango, Guat.)
Today was a much-needed lazy day. I really did nothing this morning, and I think that was good. I actually didn't realize how crushing Antigua feels until now, being out of the city. It's a nice town, but I like Granada better and I love Chichi more. It's not just the tourists. The city just has an oppressive feel to it. It's apparently overpriced (I now learn) and there are just too many people. I got stressed out being out on the streets for too long because of the crush of people in the small space.

The van ride up was also crushing, but much (even) more physically so. The van from Antigua to Los Encuentros had 14 spaces, all filled. The van from Los Encuentros to Chichi had the same spaces but was so overloaded. They crammed four of us (five if you count the 7-year-old that sat in one guy's lap) into a seat for three. I wondered at first why the gringos got shoved in the back. I soon realized it was because the van (a colectivo) acted as a taxi/shuttle service, picking up and dropping off people along the way. Since we were going all the way, we got crammed in the back, out of the way. And, boy, could they keep packing them in.

We met Mike, from the Netherlands. He's been in the area for a few months, having done Spanish classes and now volunteering. He returns home in a little over a week, like us. Also, like us, he's coming to Chichi early to avoid an early morning shuttle.

The three of us went to mass, as I'd read that it was worth the experience here. Apparently some degree of syncretism has happened here, with ancient Mayan beliefs and (moreover) practices merging with Catholicism. The mass itself was actually fairly traditional, but very nice, at just under an hour. They used incense (lots of it) and the wine was not consumed by the people. In fact, the Host and wine were processed in. The melody for the Aleluia was the same as "Seek Ye First the Kingdom of God," but every new note got a syllable, instead of eliding notes over one syllable.

¡Y la paz! La paz was so full of warmth and love and reaching out, especially this older woman behind me who reached out to me even though I didn't turn around. Why? Why? Why didn't I turn around? I froze for some reason, going from leading out trip in this service to looking to them for clues. When she touched me I simply could have melted. It was so warm, so sweet, so gentle. ¡Ay, que bonita! Que pequeña, pero mas grande.

I did notice small altar-type blocks in the middle aisle, though, several of them, all a few inches high and a few feet in length and width (rectangular, not square). There looked to be melted wax and other kinds of colored liquids on a few, pieces of some branch with small green leaves. Of course, I realized! The "pagan" offering altars, merged in with the church. Then outside on the front steps I noticed more: a platform at the base, which served to burn charcoal for burning other offerings, and after the services an altar outside the main door. This altar had a bucket of incense, many candles, and an assortment of items around it. I watched a man take a bottle of water up, pour some into a glass liquor bottle, and leave one (I'm unsure which) there. Since tomorrow is Sunday I wonder if I'll have the opportunity to see more. It makes me realize all the more how much I want to see Pascual Abaj. I mean, if I managed to come all this way and I don't go to see it, I'll kick myself forever for it....

We walked part of the market tonight as it's being set up; a few stalls (mostly food) were open. I think it's going to be really amazing, but I think once the other tourists arrive I may go crazy if I stay there (plus, I'm sure I'll have had enough time by then). I've decided that what I'm most looking for is a chess set like the one I saw in Antigua's market: one side Mayan one side Spanish. I'd like to get it for (and I think I can afford) $12-15. So $12 is Q90, so I should see if I can start around 70 or so (assuming I find one) and be willing to go up to about 125ish, even 150 if I have to, but at that I should shop around. I can get it for starting price 150 in Antigua on Monday.

We did have an experience with a mask seller tonight. He simply wouldn't let us go! And he started out saying a wooden mask was Q300. Outrageous, I thought. I'd pay no more than 100 and it's probably worth 60-70, maybe 80. He tried to tell us tomorrow it'd go for $100 (that's Q750) so it was much cheaper tonight. Bullshit. Well, he kept forcing it on us (putting one in our hands, even) and when we were uninterested still he kept dropping the price, getting down to Q125 before we finally managed to walk on. Well, we passed back by on our return and he tried again, dropping the price as low as Q60. So I've learned a few things from this experience. First, my initial guess was right, and if I keep thinking in quetzals my guesses on most things probably will be, too

– so I should hold to that! Second, people are going to try to really overprice things. Third, and perhaps most sneaky and most important, the 2nd thing that will likely be asked after the initial asking price is how much I want to pay. This seems designed to put me in a poor position, as the hunch is I'll be unlikely to go way lower than their starting price. This then locks me in higher than I may actually want to pay. In other words, I have to learn to be as shrewd as they, holding my cards close, hedging my bets, going under a bit as I think they are going over a lot. If I keep my wits, I think a fair deal with emerge. But I have to be careful. They want me off-guard. Can I turn the tables and do that for them? Pitch way low.

This city has a sweet burning smell all about it. It's quiet and beautiful. And apparently it shuts down at 9. Even the hotel we're in (Hotel Pasada Belen). I was on the (3rd floor) patio writing, the owner had shut off all the lights and asked me to get the last one when I went to bed, and 30 minutes later (at 9:40) he's shining a flashlight up from the

courtyard (ground floor) and yelling at me (in English! He must be serious) to turn off the light and go to bed because everyone else is asleep. Not only does that seem so early, it was really very condescending. Fuck you, asshole. If that's how you are, we should have stayed at Hospedaje Salvador for the same price (it was listed in two books, your headhunter just got to us first).

Though, I don't know what LP was thinking with places filling up fast here on Saturday. Aside from ours and Mike's rooms, I've only seen one other room in use and I'd be surprised if there's even two more full here.

But, ah, the sweet burning smells!

Sunday, June 24, 2007 (Antigua, Guatemala)
What do I miss most about the U.S.? Throwing toilet paper in the bowl. I sometimes forget not to do that here (it's reflex!), though it's supposed to go in the basket provided. Also, I miss drinking tap water with impunity. Bottled water is not a way to live!

Chichi was a fun city. The market was actually really fun. We went way early this morning and most places were still setting up. But we went to the center and found food. We sat with the locals and had something called "mush" (no joke, that's what they lady said), which was a bowl of corn flakes with a hot, sweetened milk. I think it may have had a sweetened condensed milk as a part of it, but I couldn't tell everything for sure. It was very good, though, as well as the hot arroz con leche we drank.

	The market was huge, sprawling down every street for 2-3 blocks (quadras) off the plaza, which was a giant tarped city, totally covered. Some paths (especially by the church) were packed, some very light and easy to move through.

	There were masks galore, as well as purses, clothes, both in a dazzling array of colors and patterns), statues, accessories, jewelry, and a host of other knick-knacks and souvenirs.

There was fresh produce scattered about, but most concentrated in the gym by the plaza. The center of the plaza was a food court, with tables and benches scattered about and different fires and grills going keeping pots of rice, soup, beans, chicken, and other things hot.

In some places there were CDs (burned, of course) and electronics, others necessities like soup, underwear, children's clothing (the really hot item among locals – wow!). I even found a few chess sets (tablero de ajedrez) but all way over priced and none like I wanted. I did end up buying a set of pipes for Q20, which I now must learn to play, and a crocheted mask-hat for Q30, which I think will help keep my head and face warm in Mass. this winter. I still want to get the Mayan-Spanish chess set tomorrow, but can spend no more than Q100. I'll start at 70 and hope. C got 3 skirts, 13 sunglasses holders, and a couple of other things. Plus she still wants a particular purse tomorrow....

After a pretty intense argument (our 2nd this trip) about safety, providence smiled on us and we stumbled across a tour group being led to Pascual Abaj (granted, at the end, the guide asked for money, even though when C asked we were told we could join in and no mention was made of cost -- I guess I should have gone back to my all-important rule from the Corn Islands). It was somehow not what I expected. The idol was very small, and though it stood out, it didn't look like anything in particular (it was maybe 1½' tall). It was surrounded by a very low stone perimeter, which

formed 3 walls of a square, the open side facing west. There were candles there, and a fire burning, and various eclectic offerings (it was similar to the front steps of the church, but more so – and the front steps had picked up today). A man stood there, chanting and busying about the altar, the whole time. Nearby were 6 small rock clusters, one of which at each kind of looked like small equidistant crosses. There were two smoldering circles beyond that, apparently where sacrifices are carried out, and a chicken was sacrificed there this morning when the shamans rotated out. I tried to see this shaman's aura, thinking it may be strong if he's an important religious man, but couldn't. I'm not good at it and it was very smoky – but maybe it wasn't strong anyway.

Because of the cold, drafty room last night (and lack of adequate blankets) I woke up this morning congested and it's gotten worse being out and about. I got drugs for it, stronger stuff back in Antigua, and I'm hoping it's not a sinus infection. Taking it easy tonight and getting a long night's sleep may help, I hope – Tikal is coming soon and I want to be in peak condition!... (As I found out soon after, and get into in my journal, it turned out to in fact be a sinus infection. Sick twice in one month, barely a week apart. WTF?)

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