El Salvador
Currency: US Dollar (US$)

Friday, June 15, 2007 (San Salvador, El Salvador)
The taxi here from the airport was super-expensive. I apparently read up on the taxi service's shuttle – oops. But something incredibly amusing did happen on the way through customs. After I handed my paper and passport (which he didn't look at) to the inspector he waved me on – without even looking at my bag! But as I started to walk he looked at me, made a gesture I didn't get, then said (in English), "push the button." I had seen the stop-light looking thing and was just not getting it. It was in front of a luggage conveyor belt that didn't go through anything and I'd seen it light up before saying "pase" in green. And he said "push the button" that was only the light's post. It lit up, said "pase," and I walked on. But it was so absurd that I couldn't help but laugh, though I hated to do so. But I really had no idea what it was for.

Then C came by and did it, too, and we left, trying not to laugh, but failing. What was it for?

Of course, we realized in the taxi that it was probably what they used to determine who got the random searches. Strange way to do customs, I think. But then again...maybe it is just a game. ???

Ximena's Guest House (our hostel) is really nice. Several small (six-bed) dorm rooms, a few private rooms, open ceiling common areas, and a roof access (for a dorm room and a patio). On the roof patio I met many others here (watched one person – Caitlin? – get her ears pierced) and soon learned that about 7 or 8 others are headed to Suchitoto tomorrow. Wonder of wonders. So we just a few minutes ago decided to all split a shuttle van. A little more expensive than the bus, but more direct and I think (and hope) a lot more fun. Now this is what I love about travel, and could easily make up for the relative suck-ness of the Corn Islands. Plus, some of them (four guys from California) are talking about heading on to Copán from there. If things work out well for that, we may join them, which would not only resolve the Copán issue, but also drop a day of travel and free it to be put somewhere else (around Antigua, Chichi, or Panajachel, since the Tikal flight is set – but I think we'll make do).

Saturday, June 16, 2007 (Suchitoto, E.S.)
We took a van full of 10 people from Ximena's to Dos Gardeñas in Suchitoto this morning. Two in our group were hung over. It was supposed to be a 20-person van, but not quite. With the luggage creatively packed, we had to get creative with the people. In the back with the luggage was Doan, the Israeli. Caitlin (the Canadian) and Paul (a Californian) sat on the next bench, next to me, in the jump seat. The Dutchmen, Valentine and Alex, sat on the next bench, Brian (from CA) sat on the edge facing them, and Jon (CA) was in the floor (and later out the window). That left C and Phil (CA), very hung over, up front with the driver.

Left: Brian and Jon, on the least comfortable seats. Below: me, Duran (in red), Phil, Valentine (foreground), and Caitlin.

One of the many beautiful streets of Suchitoto.
Caitlin got her ears pierced last night by a person from Oregon. She took one out and we just had an episode getting it back in.
Me, hard at work planning out some part of the trip. I do look so studious, don't I? The door behind me leads to the room we stayed in at Dos Gardeñas.

This is the church on the southwest side of the main plaza.
Me and Duran at lunch. The place we ate had these enormous sombreros that we all put on and took pictures with. It didn't last long because the wind kept trying to take them off (that and they didn't fit my apparently extra-large head).

A cool video Cristine took while we stopped along the side of the road. Apparently Caitlin knew of an interesting trick with the plantlife we saw here. Just watch her hand of death strike it down!
After lunch all ten of us hiked out to La Cascada Los Tercios. It was a fun hike, and interesting changes in scenery. It went from cobbled streets to dirt road in a residential zone, to open dirt road in the country.
The promised burning trash dump never appeared, but we found what I thought was the gate and then quickly confirmed it. The trail was hard to find, but my mad scouting skills got us there.

As promised, there was little water (only a trickle), but the rock formations were so cool! They were roughly hexagonal, and laid out in an intricate tile-work style pattern.
Even more interesting, though, were the length and protrusion of them. The sideways ones were up to a meter or so, the ones vertical ran long ways with the waterfall.
I got to climb all over, exploring both top and bottom, then when we were all hanging out up top, I tested the reverb by singing the refrain of Alla Luce del Sole with all my might. It was totally awesome, and they seemed to love it.

Yet another of those gorgeous streets of Suchitoto, taken on the way back into town.

Then we came back to the hostel and ended up playing Nerts (the CA guys know it!) and Taki (a game Doran brought, similar to Uno). Things fell apart as we ate, I looked up buses for tomorrow, and several of us journaled....

Seven of us are headed out to Copán Ruinas tomorrow, leaving here at 6: me, C, Doran, Jon, Brian, Paul, and Phil. It'll be a travel day, then all of Monday at the ruins, then (I think?) Tuesday a shuttle to Antigua (parting with the others). Though who knows? Maybe it'll be a 2nd day there, depending on what there is to do. (Doran ended up not joining is; it was only six.)

Sunday, June 17, 2007 - Father's Day – Midpoint (bus from Las Aguilares to El Poy, E.S.)
Today's travels will likely be the biggest adventure of the trip. We left the hostel at 6:30 this morning to catch a bus from Suchitoto to Las Aguilares. That took about 40 minutes on a converted school bus (as I think all our buses will be). We had a quick (as in, immediate) transfer for our next bus, a block down and across the street, but decided to wait an hour for the next one as we needed food and baños. Now we're headed to El Poy, at the border, where we'll cross into Honduras, get a pickup taxi or bus to Nuevo Ocotempeque, then a bus north, transferring once more to Copán....
Right: Me and C at our Las Aguilares stop.

On these buses, when they stop in major towns, people jump on board and stroll the aisle selling food and drink. I suppose it serves a good purpose, but it's super annoying, especially when so many do it at once! Also, the people here little like crazy. I saw one mother let her kids toss trash out the bus window twice, and one food vendor just threw a stray fly in the floor (it's now at my feet). At the same time, I find Salvadoreños very friendly and willing to help. I think that has much to do with how unaccustomed to tourist (at least foreign ones) they are. In Suchitoto we were clearly an oddity, turning heads in doors and windows and making people stop what they were doing and start at the (especially large flock of) gringos coming down the street. We do stand out, and it's physical body stuff. We look different. Even in the right clothes (which are what?) we can't hide it. We stand out.

Left: Brian, Phil, and Jon wait for the next bus to El Poy. Phil and Jon picked up the Pollo Campero super-hero masks at breakfast.

Before long (well, at least before the day's over) we'll all be in Copán Ruinas, Honduras.


Return to the starting page. 1