R, 16 June 2005 (Barcelona, Spain)
The hostel is small, but nice. It's on the 2nd floor of an open-air building tucked away in Barri Gotic. La Rambla is a fun place to just walk. Lots of people, but low traffic (due to a middle pedestrian area and only one lane on each side). But it's not crowded. There are human "statues" all over, though most are animated and interact with the crowds. It's like Mardi Gras meets Halloween. There was a devil and angel playing chess, various flower covered creations, and a host of other creatures and reenactments.

I think I'm goin to enjoy four days in Barcelona.

I took an easy day today, visiting the Colombus Monument (impressive!) and walking around Barri Gotic... I'm headed out with Todd (from CT) and a guy from Germany (whose name I've forgotten :( ). We're goin to Bar Marsella for absinthe.

So Bar Marsella, I found after asking at nearby shops, doesn't open until 10:30 or 11. It's a seedy area. There were at least 3 or 4 prostitutes working that corner, and they'd been there when I walked by earlier, too. You could tell it was not a place to be alone, especially if you didn't look like you could fit in. (Thankfully, I had that last part covered; but I still wouldn't want to be alone there for long.)

Another guy, Jason, from CA, joined us, and the German guy was coming behind after a shower. As the 3 of us approached, we witnessed a pretty violent (and bloody) fight/beating go past, which was dangerously on the brink of becoming a riot. The police arrived soon after, but were gone in about 10 minutes, apparently having broken it up before it got really bad. This only added to the rather poor ambiance.

By 7 past 8 our German friend had not shown up and Jason (and Todd a little) were getting antsy being there. So we left to go back to Todd's hostel for some cheap beers. It's apparently the party hostel (I'm glad I haven't been in one of those yet) and shortly after getting drinks (I got water) a "talent show" started. The opening act was a song called Sex and Violence (incidentally, those words also formed the entirety of the lyrics) followed by a guy who chugged 2L of beer in 32 seconds (it was claimed he could do it in 10). At that point, I left. Not my thing, and I definitely didn't come to Europe to do that.

I am hoping our German friend will return here when he finds the bar closed and us absent. I felt somewhat guilty leaving without him there, but though I was comfortable staing, I wasn't comfortable staying alone. If he gets back soon, maybe we can attempt a brief return at 11 for a chance to try it.

While standing outside the bar, I had another adorable experience. On a first floor balcony were 2 children, and they had dropped a toy over the rail. I noticed them when a man came along and tossed it back to them. As he left, the girl promptly tossed it back over, apparently thinking it was a game. When I figured out the item was their toy I tossed it back up myself, but had to keep telling them "no" from across the street so they wouldn't toss it again. Finally their mother took them inside and closed the door.

F, 17 June 2005 (Barcelona, Spain) I went to the Palau de la Musica Catalan today, but it cost €6 to get in, so I left for the Museu de Xocolata. It talked about the history and background and development of chocolate, as well as showing a lot of amazing chocolate sculptures. Apparently the Aztecs ate chocolate as a spicy drink: cocoa, water, vanilla, and hot pepper. I'll have to try this.

After the church of Santa Maria del Mar, I came to the Parc de la Ciutadella where I'm finishing lunch by a very active fountain. It looks like I may do most of my sightseeing today, and I'm thinking tomorrow would be good to just spend the day enjoying the city beach.

Fear, gripping fear, can be nearly debilitating. But it can be overcome, if only marginally enough to keep putting one step in front of another, knowing you are working your way to the end.

While at Sagrada Familia, I decided to climb the towers. Mistake. The sides were too open, the immediacy of the height too great, the passage narrow, with no retreat from the ledge, and much of the time a ledge on the other side. I climbed just over 330 steps up, the height of about 75 meters. When I reached terra firma again, my legs were unsteady and my mind reeling.

Partay up there was a bridge. Even through the terror, I knew I was in the middle of a great experience. The wind whipped around me with such a force and you could see all across Barcelona, a city that seems to stretch forever. To one side was ocean, another buildings that rolled up into the hills that seem to surround it on all sides but the water. On another side was the church, unfinished, and inprogress for over 100 years. Many of the window holes were empty, waiting patiently for the for the stained glass that would fill them. But what glass was in place -- as lovely as the architecture itself!

So I left as soon as I touched bottom. I went to Parc Güell, on the northeast side of the city, set into the very hills that circle Barcelona. The architecture here is also astounding, but even moreso is the view from the top. Yes, I climbed to the highest peak in this park. Again wind, and views even more powerful than the church towers could offer (I can see them from here), and more importantly: no fear. I'm in my element now and though high up, there are wide open spaces and no sudden ledges. I can take it all in from here and even see things further in the distance that I can't identify. Here, spectacular!

S, 18 June 2005 (Barcelona, Spain)
Last night I tried absinthe. It wasn't a bad experience, but I probably won't do it again. The taste had a heavy liquorish flavor and I soon learned that came from the anise that was part of the drink. But the effect! After only a few sips it was like having had 4-5 shots of good rum. But additional to that as an incredible mellow feeling. It didn't last any longer than a regular alcohol buzz, but it was very nice.

Today I've come to the beach. A day of relaxing in the water and sun. It'll be another good rest day, plus I haven't been to the beach in a while.

For lunch today we had paellas. Kind of pricey, but oh so good! And I did promise myself at least one nice meal per country...

I've come up with two cardinal rules for traveling like this (add it to the list of things to do when arriving in a city for the first time):

1. NEVER go out without your city map. No matter what, always have a map with you. You may surprise yourself in how you end up needing it.
2. When you come across water fountains, do the following:
   1. Make a mental note of where it is (or better, mark it on your map)
   2. Refill your jug
   3. Drink your fill right there before moving on.

...We went to a string concert tonight. Incredible! Six composers' works, including Vivaldi, Bach, Mozart, and three others I didn't recognize and can't remember. They ended up doing a double encore for the crowd. Most of the music they chose had such a longing to it, a lamentation, a sadness, expressing and tapping into that emptiness trying desperately to be filled. So powerful, so beautiful...

U, 19 June 2005 (Barcelona, Spain)
I attended mass this morning a the main cathedral. Huge place, very nice architecture and windows, and lots of singing. The cantor and the organ added a lot to the service. Again, though, the wine was not consumed by the congregation. They did use incense (lots of it).

I think I saw the Sardana, but I can't be sure. At noon I heard music coming from a plaza a little behind the cathedral. I got there in time to watch groups each dressed in a different color move across the plaza. They picked up one man, then a woman climbed to stand on his shoulders, then a small child climbed to stand on her shoulders. As a group, with dozens of people supporting and carrying this tower, they moved across the plaza to music. Everyone in a group had the same color shirt and wrapped their midsection in a few meters of a black material. It looked like more was going to go on once all the groups had made it across, but it was slow to happen so I eventually got lunch and left.
More video of the Sardana can be found here and another one here.

Montuïc is quite a mountain. I took the funicular as far as it would take me and then hiked the rest of the way, quite a distance! And the castle/fortress up here is huge! The back part appears to still be used as a military zone, but there's plenty of public access, and I love walking through castles! Many parts are overgrown with grass from lack of use. The parts that confuse me, though, are these "islands" of sorts. They could be separate buildings (out back there clearly are many) with few windows or entrances. There are stairs, though, that lead to a grassy area on top, with a short buttress wall on one side (away from the stairs), but it doesn't seem to go anywhere or be for a strategic purpose. Perhaps it was a good place for soldiers to have lunch. I walked the outer castle perimeter to the back and am now attempting to make my way to the Olympic Park. What an amazing day! And what a fun adventure! This is a truly excellent way to spend a Sunday afternoon.

The metro trains here run their power lines above the cars, instead of along the tracks (and beneath the cars) like most American metros. This is like the European train systems: powered by cables from above. Interesting note.

On to Zaragoza!