There are several differences in NIZO camera models over the years....and it would be a long explanation. The NIZO models S-480, S-560 & S-800 are earlier cameras made about 1973/74. The NIZO models S-481, S-561 and S-801 came out in late 1974/early 1975. These were later changed once again by 1976/77 to S-481 macro, S-561 macro & S-801 macro.

The differences are: S-480 & S-481 both have an 8mm to 48mm F/1.8 Schneider 2-speed zoom lens S-560 & S-561 both have a 7mm to 56mm F/1.8 Schneider 2-speed zoom lens S-800 & S-801 both have a 7mm to 80mm F/1.8 Schneider 2-speed zoom lens.

All the above cameras feature: single frame, 18fps, 24fps, and instant slow motion at 54fps. They have a builtin intervalometer for time lapse filming from 1 fps to 1 frame per minute. The have a manual variable shutter that can be locked in the half-closed position, and also can be locked in the fully open postion to make time exposures per frame up to one minute via the intervalometer, or manually up to whatever time you select. They also have a flash synch PC contact, 5 pin DIN for synch-sound via NIZO cable, electric remote release, cable release, lock run setting, F-Stop display in the viewfinder with over/under warning, Film transport red LED/lamp(also acts as end-of-film signal), F-Stop display also doubles as battery power level indicator for both drive and meter batteries, Lap Dissolve button for 54 frame lap dissolve which automatically fades out...rewinds film...fades in again when refilming, removeable battery pack for the drive batteries, and came with two eyecups...a large one and a small one. ONLY the S-800 and S-801 models have a declutch setting to allow for an ultra smooth manual zoom setting.

The later models also have these improvements:

• A convex shape to the Lap Dissolve ("R") button to make it easier to depress. - A cable release socket next to the "R" button to allow for perfect dissolves for special effects without camera movement. - Integration of the F-Stop display light path so it can be seen in the viewfinder display without having to tilt your eyes downward. - Addition of the Automatic "B" feature which has a front mounted external photo cell, so that you can set the camera to Automatic "B" to allow the meter to determine the required timed exposure per frame in low light from 1/10th second to 1 minute per frame....or set it to manual. - Black knurled easier to grab & see knobs for the controls.
• The later "macro" versions have the addition of macro closeup focusing lens elements, which also allow use of the special NIZO Ultrawide angle lens attachments. All other features remain the same.
• Braun-NIZO S-480 Super 8mm cartridge loading camera: model years: 1972-1974 (replaced in late 1974 by the S-481)

The S-480 has an 8mm - 48mm F/1.8 two-speed power zoom lens which is non-macro....minimum focusing distance is about 5ft. The other FEATURES are:

1. 2-speed power zoom, touch two top front mounted zoom buttons lightly and you get the low speed...depress them firmer and you get the higher speed.
2. Smooth manual zoom, to switch to manual zoom, turn the black front knurled ring at the base of the lens where it meets the camera to the "0" position or "Man" position (might be marked either depending on vintage of camera). The zoom gearing disengages and allows a nice smooth manual zoom.
3. VIEWFINDER DISPLAY:
   • Aperture scale in viewfinder with over and under RED warning zones. You have to tilt your eye to see the aperture display.....it is almost impossible to see the aperture display and the viewed image since they are on different planes. This was changed to a simpler direct viewing on the replacement S-481 model in late 1974.
   • The F/8 to F/16 range is also a battery check indicator. To check the batteries....depress the slide switch on the side of the camera to the battery check side and observe the needle. It should deflect to as least F/8...if not...replace the batteries or recharge them (if using NiCads). The Aperture settings can be set manually by turning the chrome aperture control ring off the AUTO setting and observing the needle in the viewfinder allowing it to come to rest at the setting you desire. In the center of the aperture setting knob is a tiny black button....this is for checking the light meter batteries (which are housed separate from the motor batteries in a tiny chamber on the bottom of the camera; have to move the folding pistol grip out of the way and use a nickel coin to unscrew the compartment lid). When depressed momentarily, the needle will deflect to at least F/8 if the batteries are okay; make sure you turn the camera's power switch to ON first...by sliding it over...or the meter batteries won't power up for the test. c. Film movement indicator: This is a red light at either the top or bottom of the viewfinder that will glow steady if film is not moving (competed cartridge or film jam), or will flicker at a steady rate relative to the running speed set if film is advancing correctly.
4. The CONTROL SIDE of the camera (the left side as you are holding it) has all the main knobs on it. These are:
   • Auto and manual aperture setting with meter battery test button.
   • Intervalometer timer knob with range of zero, 1 frame every second down to 1 frame every minute. Camera trigger has to be held in, or use cable release, or use manual run lock switch on right side of camera (RED sliding knob).
   • Main POWER switch, with OFF in center position, other two positions are BATTER CHECK (ONLY tests motor batteries), and ON position.
   • Footage counter (counts in feet and meters amount of film used) Resets to Zero when cartridge is removed...so if you remove an unfinished cartridge to switch to a different film type....mark down how much footage is remaining BEFORE you remove the cartridge..then write that figure down on the cartridge label...so you can keep track next time you use that cartridge again.
   • Red sliding VARIABLE SHUTTER LEVER: When forward....shutter is fully open, when you slide it slowly backwards the shutter slowly closes and will effect a FADE-OUT. If you hold it all the way back, then begin filming and slowly release it to the front it will effect a FADE-IN. By moving it to the middle position (half darkened circle setting) and then pulling it down so it locks into a small detent....you can lock the shutter in the half closed setting, which increases the shutter speed per frame by a factor of two, and will open the lens up if set to AUTO exposure by 1-Stop. Useful for smoother fast action, or if you desire less depth-of-field etc. By depressing a small black button at the end of the fadeout range....you can move the lever into that position and then release that button, and it will hold the lever in that position. This will LOCK the SHUTTER FULLY OPEN. By doing this...you can make a timed exposure longer than normal per frame. By using the time lapse intervalometer, you can time the exposure per frame from 1/10th second down to ONE MINUTE PER FRAME! This means you can film under a full moon with Kodachrome...believe it or not....however....when doing this...you have to use a separate handheld light meter to determine your correct exposure, also you'll have to lock the run lock switch or use a cable release so the camera stays running continously for the duration of your long exposure filming session, and you'll want to use a tripod of course. Using this....you can film highways at night...and get those nice long colorful streaks from the car lights coming and going like in TV commercials etc.
   • RUNNING RATE KNOB: This sets the camera's running speed to single frame, 18fps or 24fps. By depressing the center marked "54" button while operating the camera, it will go into instant slow motion at 54fps, and the light meter will compensate automatically as well.
   • Power socket for operation with 9 volt external power pack.
5. RIGHT CAMERA SIDE: is the secondary control side of the camera with the following features:
   • PILOTONE PULSE-SYNCH TERMINAL:....a DIN socket which will output both Pilotone one pulse per every fourth frame or one pulse per frame with a builtin pulsesynch generator that will record a signal on a corresponding tape recorder....requires the synch plug unit which is rare now to locate.
   • ELECTRIC RELEASE SOCKET: By using a mini or micro jack connected to a lead with a simple on-off switch you can use this electrical method of operating the camera (requires the camera to be switched on, and set into the RUN-LOCK mode...or trigger-set with a locked cable release).
   • CABLE RELEASE SOCKET: Allows use of a conventional cable release for mechanical release operation of the camera for either continous, locked set for timed filming, or single frame release mode.
   • PC FLASH CONTACT: This allows connection of a conventional electronic flash for single frame filming of art work or animation etc. It can also be used in conjunction with a pulse-synch generator to gain a reference rate of the camera's running speed used for cable-synch double system sound filmmaking.
   • RUN LOCK LEVER (RED): when moved forward it will trigger the camera mechanically and leave it running continously until it is set back again.
6. TOP OF CAMERA:
   • Front: two zoom buttons which are dual speed depending on whether depressed lightly or firmly.
   • Rear: Round black button with an "R" on it. This is the lap dissolve button. When filming, if you depress this button, it will automatically run a fadeout using the variable shutter (done internally), and then allow the camera to rewind the film to the first frame at which the fadeout began. To commence the second part of the lap dissolve, you just begin filming and the camera will automatically fadein for you. The lap dissolve system in mechanically interlocked with the variable shutter, so you can only do lap dissolves, not superimpositions (double-exposures). The frame fadein/out rate using the lap dissolve is 64 frames (approximately 4 seconds at 18fps or 3 seconds at 24fps).
7. BACK OF CAMERA:
   • Adjustable diopter viewfinder with split-image rangefinder. To set correctly, exactly measure a distance of 10ft from a wall to the camera set on a tripod with the lens set at 10ft. Tape some newsprint or material on the wall for clarity. Measure from the wall to the focal plane on the camera (small film plane symbol; a circle with a line thru it on the right side of the camera) using a measuring tape for accuracy. Adjust viewfinder diopter control until image is clear and the split-image rangefinder is evenly matched. Depending on your eyesight.....you'll have to meet a slight compromise on clarity verus the rangefinder halves being lined up.
   • Cartridge loading door. Move small lever downward and cartridge door will swing downward allowing you to load or unload the film. The cartridge will automatically index the light meter to the filmspeed. The metering system is indexed by the cartridge meter indexing notch...and is from a range of ASA 25 to ASA 400.
8. BOTTOM OF CAMERA:
   • Under the swing away pistol grip is the meter battery chamber (2-PX13 cells for the light meter)
   • Pointed chrome electrical contacts for the battery chamber box. Camera will only work with pistol grip in the closed position or there's no battery contact.
   • Tripod socket (1/4inch whitworth standard 20 thread pitch socket)

Best wishes, Martin W. Baumgarten

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