Last Updated 00/02/23 1700 PST
Subject: Re: direct positive formulas
From: George Selinsky gselinsky@spamlessyahoo.com
Date: 1999/06/20
Newsgroups: rec.arts.movies.tech, alt.movies.cinematography.super8
The Tmax Direct Positive kit is not optimal for motion picture film - I
suggest using the original Kodak formula.
I dug it up for everyone to have. Everyone get your pencils out...
First Developer:
Any strong developer. D-19 with some silver solvent (Sodium Thiocyanate,
about 9mL/liter) will do.
D-94 is the "official" version:
Start w/ 750mL water,
Elon (same as Metol) 0.6g / 1.3g replenisher
Sodium Sulfite 50 g / 50 g replen
Hydroquinone 20 g / 0 replen
Potassium Bromide 8 g (or Sodium Bromide 7g) / 0 replen
Sodium Thiocyanate 9 mL / 11.4 mL replen
Sodium Hydroxide 20 g / 34 g replen (careful, this stuff heats up when
stirred, use Pyrex glass. It's also caustic to the skin).
Water to make 1L
replenish at 222 mL/100ft 16mm.
Time of use: 2 minutes @ 68 deg starting point, varies with each
developer and equipment.
Bleach R-9 and replenisher
Start with 1 L water:
Potassium Dichromate 9.5 g / 30 g replenisher (don't breathe it in,
be careful).
Sulfuric Acid 100% (undiluted battery acid) 12 mL / 25 mL replenisher.
(BE CAREFUL! Always acid to water, never the other way around. Wear
eye goggles and gloves, lab coat. I am not responsible blah, blah,
blah).
replenish at 200 ml/100ft.
rec. time in typical rack/spiral reel processing equipment 3 min 68
deg.
Clearing Bath CB-3:
Start 750 mL water,
Sodium Sulfite 10 g
Water to make 1 L
Dump after one use. It's cheap. You may be able to stretch it for a few
rolls.
rec. time in typical rack/spiral reel processing equipment 3 min 68 deg.
Reexposure:
10 seconds to a 100 watt bulb 1 foot away from the film.
Second developer:
Any strong, contrasty developer, like D-19 w/o silver solvent Sodium
Thiocyanate. Kodak Dektol works well.
Replenish 74 mL/100ft, or dilute Dektol and dump.
For sepia toned, brown images, substitute reexposure and second
development for:
Sulfide Redeveloper T-19 for sepia toned images:
Water 750mL
Sodium SulfiDE (not Sulfite!) 20g
Water to make 1 L
Use at 68 deg for 2 min. Use with a fan, it really stinks like rotten
eggs, but the images are beautiful, I'd even say less grainy and more
sharp.
Fixer:
Kodak Rapid Fixer, or as you choose.
rec. time in typical rack/spiral reel processing equipment 5 min 68
deg.
Wash with Hypo Eliminator to perserve image quality.
Dry in a dust free environment.
Lubricate it after drying.
Serve with your favorite choice of wine. Don't drink the R-9 bleach no
matter how much it reminds you of cranapple juice, unless you want to
die a slow death (or, for that matter, any other processing solution).
It is normal to see yellow sediment at the bottom of the bleach jar
after a roll has been processed - that's SILVER! If you are using the
Sulfide redeveloper, it doubles as a superb stink bomb. It's also
caustic, so wear gloves.
You can develop any Kodak negative stock and get a positive image. It's
usually suggested to stick to slower stocks and rate them 1.5 stops
higher than their negative ASA.
You can also develop 7276 and 78 as negatives if you rate them about 1
stop lower, and develop in D-76 for 11 minutes at 68 deg, adding
0.5 g/liter of Potassium Bromide. Good as a one shot deal developer.
- G.
Here is a helpful table for mixing the formulas I gave you in the
previous postings. This way, you don't need a scale to measure your
chemicals. If you need to mix 30 grams of Borax, you use 2 tablespoons.
If you want to mix 4 grams of Elon, you use 1/8 (0.125) teaspoon + 1/2
(0.5) teaspoon.
Chemicals can be purchased from Photographers Formulary, an outfit in Montana.
Please be careful with all chemicals, some of them are very dangerous. -
G.
Source: Beyond Basic Photography, by Josh Horenstein, © 1977
[Note: tbl. = tablespoon, tsp. = teaspoon]
1 tbl., 0.5 tbl., 1 tsp., 0.5 tsp., 0.25 tsp., 0.125 tsp.
amidol 7.0 3.5 2.3 1.2 0.7 0.4
benzotriazole 6.0 3.0 2.1 1.0 0.5 0.25
borax 15.0 7.5 5.0 2.5 1.3 0.7
boric acid 12.0 6.0 4.1 2.0 1.0 0.5
chlorquinol 9.7 5.0 3.4 1.7 0.8 0.45
glycin 4.1 2.1 1.4 0.7 0.35 0.2
hydroquinone 9.0 4.5 3.0 1.5 0.75 0.4
Kodalk 14.5 7.2 4.8 2.4 1.2 0.6
Metol (or Elon) 10.5 5.25 3.5 1.75 0.85 0.45
phenidone 6.0 3.0 2.0 1.0 0.5 0.25
potassium alum 16.8 8.4 5.6 2.8 1.5 0.8
potassium bromide 19.5 10.0 6.5 3.2 1.6 0.8
potassium dichromate 22.0 11.5 7.9 4.1 2.2 1.1
potassium ferricyanide 15.5 8.0 5.5 2.8 1.5 0.8
silver nitrate 41.0 20.7 13.8 7.0 3.6 1.8
sodium bisulfate 22.9 11.5 7.7 4.0 2.0 1.0
sodium bisulfite 18.0 9.0 6.0 3.0 1.5 0.75
sodium carbonate 18.0 9.0 6.0 3.0 1.5 0.75
sodium sulfate 22.5 11.4 7.7 3.8 2.0 1.0
sodium sulfite 22.8 11.4 7.6 3.8 1.9 1.0
sodium thiosulfate 18.0 9.0 6.0 3.0 1.5 0.75
Your Source for Super 8mm & Regular 8mm Film Services
MARTIN W. BAUMGARTEN
Plattsburgh, New York U.S.A.
E-Mail: Super8mm@AOL.com
Website: http://members.aol.com/Super8mm/Super8mm.html
* Business hours Mon-Fri 9am - 5pm e.s.t. Closed for all USA holidays.
Visit KODAK's New Super 8 dedicated site!
http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/super8/
June 25, 1999
Hi anyone wanting to process their own Super 8mm films,
---> Below is the formula breakdowns for film processing. A lot
depends on which method you are using. If you use Rewind Processing
(ala G-3 tanks) then you will probably want to add the sodium
thiocyanate as a silver solvent only to the first developer....but try
a test roll either way first. If you are using rack & tray or spiral
reel methods....then you can usually forgo the addition of this, and
use just off the shelf Kodak D-19 (or similar) developer, as both your
first and re-developers. However....mix up two separate batches of it,
unless using it as a one-shot or two-shot process.
---> With care, you can get away with only having to mix up two
solutions from scratch, namely the Bleach and the Clearing Bath. The
Bleach is somewhat critical and also a bit dangerous to mix, so use
extreme caution when working with the sulfuric acid....and
remember...ADD the acid to the Water or solution...not the other way
around (or you risk 'boil-over' in which the acid could splash up into
your face). Use rubber gloves for mixing and processing, and mix
chemistry in a well ventilated area, preferably wearing a dust mask
for mixing powder chemicals.
---> Use reversal exposure IF at all possible as it is recommended over
chemical reversal....but again.....it depends on your equipment. Older
G-3 tanks have reversal exposure windows.....new ones made by Doran
Corp. no longer have this window.
---> The new Kodak T-Max Reversal Kit, which replaced the Kodak Direct
Positive Reversal Kit (which was better suited to motion picture B&W
films), will work. The problem is that you can only process about 6 -
50ft cartridges of Super 8mm B&W film....perhaps 8 if using spiral reel
equipment and properly extending your first development times with each
subsequent roll of film [try adding 30 seconds for each additional roll
of film to the initial recommended 6 minutes]. If you have access to
a densitometer, or can have a local one-hour lab read out the strips
for you....consider using a fresh roll of film to make up your own
process control strips. If anyone's interested....I can go over
this procedure in another posting...as this one is super long already!
Best wishes,
Martin W. Baumgarten
MOVIE FILM PROCESSING FORMULAS FOR BLACK & WHITE REVERSAL
by Martin W. Baumgarten © 1998
Email: Super8mm@aol.com
The following information is provided to those wishing to process their
own movie (cine) film at home, using the various apparatus available:
Rewind Tank, Rack & Tank, Reel & Trough, Spiral Reel & Tank, Hose
Snakes, and similar. If you have any specific questions to a given
method or equipment, please write for details or call.
HOME MOVIE FILM PROCESSING CHEMICAL FORMULAS
Kodak PREBATH PB-3:
Metric U.S. Liquid
(Avoirdupois)
Water..........................................................900ml 115 fl oz
*0.5% solution of Kodak Anti-Fog No.2 (AF-71)
(6-Nitrobenzimidazole Nitrate)**......................16.0ml 2 fl oz Kodak
Sodium Carbonate (Monohydrated).......15.0 grams 2 ounces Water to
make.................................................1.0 liter 1 gallon
*To prepare a .05% solution, dissolve 1 gram of Kodak Anti-Fog, No. 2 in 200ml
of distilled water (18 gr in 8 oz of water).
** Kodak Anti-Fog, No. 2 is available in .45 and 2.27 kg (1 - and - 5 lb) bottles
from any of the Kodak Regional Marketing and Distribution Centers. Smaller
quantities of this chemical can be obtained from chemical companies such as
Pfaltz and Bauer, Flushing, N.Y. 11368. When ordering, use the generic
chemical name.
PPS NOTE: IF unable to obtain and make the Kodak Prebath PB-3, make up a
sufficient amount of fresh Photo-Flo mix, and use this as a substitute. It works
well as the wetting agent will allow even and full penetration of the initial
chemicals during processing, although there is no anti-fog protection. In my
years of experience, anti-fog would only be necessary when processing high
speed films, and/or you're unable to process film close to the 68°F (20°C) mark,
and have to operate under higher temperatures. If you work carefully with your
rewind processing equipment, you may not counter any noticeable fog at all.
NOTE: This Prebath is only intended for Rewind Processing; be sure to rinse
for 4 passes after using either the PB-3 or Photo-Flo Prebath Steps.
Kodak DEVELOPER D-94
Metric(Liter) U.S. Liquid
(Avoirdupois)
Water, about 21°C (70°F)............................750 ml 96 fl oz Kodak Elon
Developing Agent.......................0.6 grams 35 grains Kodak Sodium Sulfite
(Anhydrous)...............50.0 grams 6&3/4 ounces Kodak
Hydroquinone...................................20.0 grams 2oz 290 grains
Kodak Potassium Bromide (Anhydrous)........8.0 grams 1oz 30 grains or
Sodium Bromide instead......................7.0 grams 400 grains Kodak
Sodium Thiocyanate (Liquid)...............9.1 ml 1oz 1 dram *Kodak
Sodium Hydroxide...........................20.0 grams 2oz 290 grains
Water to make.............................................1 Liter 1 gallon
*WARNING! Dissolve the sodium hydroxide in at least 200ml (8oz) of water in a
separate container and then add it to the solution of hte other constituents. Then
dilute the whole to the required volume. If the sodium hydroxide is dissolved in a
glass container, stir the solution constantly until the sodium hydroxide is
dissolved to prevent the generated heat from cracking the glassware. If
possible, use Pyrex or plastic laboratory-type (grade) glassware.
Kodak DEVELOPER D-19
(also available in prepared form.....easier)
Water, about 50°C (125°F)..............................500ml 64 fl oz
Kodak Elon Developing Agent.........................2.0 grams 115 grains Kodak
Sodium Sulfite (Anhydrous)..................90.0 grams 12 ounces Kodak
Hydroquinone........................................8.0 grams 1 oz 30 grains
Kodak Sodium Carbonate (Monohydrated).........52.5 grams 7 ounces
Kodak Potassium Bromide (Anhydrous)............5.0 grams 290 grains Cold
Water to make.........................................1.0 Liter 1 Gallon
Kodak DEVELOPER D-88
(also available in prepared form, usually have to special order it, use D-19
otherwise)
Water, about 50°C (125°F)...............................750 ml 96 fl oz
Kodak Sodium Sulfite (Anhydrous)....................45.0 grams 6 ounces
Kodak Hydroquinone........................................22.5 grams 3 ounces
*Kodak Boric Acid, Crystals................................5.5 grams 3/4 ounce
Kodak Potassium Bromide (Anhydrous)..............2.5 grams 145 grains
**Kodak Sodium Hydroxide................................22.5 grams 3 ounces
Cold Water to Make............................................1.0 Liter 1 Gallon
*Crystalline Boric Acid should be used as specified. DO NOT use {{powdered}}
Boric Acid...as it only dissolves with great difficulty!
** READ Notice earlier on Sodium Hydroxide in D-94 Formula!!!!
Kodak FOGGING Developer FD-72
Part - A
Eastman Sodium Dithionite (95% Sodium
Hydrosulfite).......................................................5.0 grams 290 grains
Part - B solution
Water...............................................................900 ml 115 fl oz
Kodalk Balanced Alkali........................................10.0 grams 1 oz 145
grains
Eastman L-(+)Cysteine Hydrochloride....................0.3 gram 18 grains
Water to Make.....................................................1 Liter 1 Gallon
NOTE: Dissolve 5 grams (290grains) of the Part A in 1 Liter (1 gallon) of Part B
NOT MORE than 2 HOURS before use. (This fogging developer only has a life
of about 2 hours, so it must be used within that time frame. Thus best to use
just before using).
Kodak SULFIDE RE-DEVELOPER T-19
Kodak Sodium Sulfide (Anhydrous).......................20.0 grams 2 oz 290
grains
[that's SULFIDE, not Sulfite!!]
Water to make......................................................1 Liter 1 Gallon
NOTE: This developer can be used when reversal re-exposure isn't possible,
AND, you don't mind a sepia-colored (toned) image. This yields a sepia-colored
image WITHOUT need for re-exposure of the film. Use for 2 minutes in Rack &
Tank OR Reel & Trough equipment, OR Rewind Tank.
Kodak BLEACH R-9
Water..................................................................1 Liter 1 Gallon
Kodak Potassium Dichromate (Anhydrous)..............9.5 grams 1&1/4 ounces
*Sulfuric Acid (concentrate)....................................12.0 ml 1&1/2 fl oz
*WARNING!!!! ALWAYS ADD the sulfuric acid to the solution s-l-o-w-l-y, stirring
constantly. NEVER add the solution to the acid! Otherwise, the solution may
boil over and spatter the acid on the hands or face, causing serious burns.
Kodak CLEARING BATH CB-1
Water................................................750 ml 96 fl oz
Kodak Sodium Sulfite (Anhydrous).......90.0 grams 12 ounces Water to
Make....................................1.0 Liter 1 Gallon
Kodak CLEARING BATH CB-2
Water................................................750 ml 96 fl oz Kodak Sodium
Sulfite (Anhydrous).......210.0 grams 1&3/4 pounds Water to
Make.....................................1 Liter 1 Gallon
Kodak CLEARING BATH CB-3
Water................................................750 ml 96 fl oz
Kodak Sodium Sulfite (Anhydrous)........10.0 grams 1 oz 145 grains Water to
Make.....................................1 Liter 1 Gallon
Kodak FIXER F-6
(use any commerically available Rapid Fixer)
Water, about 50°C (125°F)..................600 ml 80 fl oz Kodak Sodium
Thiosulfate (Hypo)........240.0 grams 2 pounds
Kodak Sodium Sulfite (Anhydrous).......15.0 grams 2 ounces
*Kodak 28% Acetic Acid......................48.0 ml 6 fl oz Kodalk Balanced
Alkali........................15.0 grams 2 ounces Kodak Potassium Alum, Fine
Granular..15.0 grams 2 ounces
(Dodecahydrated)
Cold water to make...............................1 Liter 1 Gallon
Kodak STOP BATH SB-1a
Water..................................................1 Liter 1 Gallon
*Kodak 28% Acetic Acid......................125.0 ml 16 ounces
*Available in 470 ml (approximately 16 fl oz). To make approximately
28% Acetic Acid from Glacial Acetic Acid, DILUTE 3 parts glacial acetic
acid with 8 parts of water. NOTE: ALWAYS Add acid to water, NOT Water
to the Acid!
NOTES on Chemical Formulas:
Generic chemicals are often available from various sources, so no need
to use Kodak chemicals except for those solutions where no other
substitute is available
D-19 can be substituted for D-88 and D-94. Add 5 ml of 51% Sodium
Thiocyanate per liter of D-19 for the First Developer ONLY. This is a
silver solvent and will help keep the highlights clear. If unavailable
in your area, D-19 alone will still provide sufficient results. Check
your own tests. D-19 will work fine as the First Developer and also
the Second (Re-developer) Developer, BUT mix separate amounts dedicated
for each purpose. If used as the Re-developer....you must re-expose
for the reversal exposure FIRST, before proceeding with second
development.
ON ALL FORMULAS: The first column is to make a 1 Liter (approx. Quart)
of solution, and the second column is to make One Gallon U.S.
(Avoirdupois). Pay strict attention and proceed carefully so you don't
get confused. ALSO, when using, mixing, and purchasing your chemicals;
Make SURE you don't confuse the terms, Sulfate, Sulfite,
Sulfide....there is a difference! The same applies to any other
similar sounding and looking chemical names.
Unless you use Rewind Equipment, all you need for spiral reels or even
the hose method would be:
§SPIRAL REEL & SIMILAR PROCESSING STEPS§
All at 68°F temperatures.
1. Initial Water Rinse......1-2 minutes
2. First Developer (D-19).....6 minutes
3. First Wash..........3 minutes
4. Bleach........1 minute
5. Clearing Bath.....2 minutes
6. Rinse.......1-2 minutes (Re-expose at this step)
7. Re-developer (D-19)
8. Second Wash......1-2 minutes or use Stop Bath for 1 minute
9. Fixer.......4 minutes
10. Wash......20-30 minutes or rinse for 1-2 minutes, 12 full water changes.
11. Photo-Flo to aid drying
12. Dry film on a drying rack (if you can't build one...those cheap
vinyl covered clothes racks set in the shower stall to dry work pretty
good)
Advantages & Disadvantages of Various Processing Methods (only the most
obvious are listed)
SPIRAL REEL PROCESSING:
Advantages: (1). Film is processed uniformaly, all at once.
(2). Processing times are fairly short compared to most other methods.
(3). Reversal exposure, if used, is easy to accomodate.
(4). Without any movement of the film, there are few possibilities
for processing marks.
Disadvantages:
(1). Usually requires more chemistry that some other processes, except
for the Superior Bulk Film equipment which required only 16oz per Super
8mm film.
(2). Can be hard to load and unload at times, adding time
spent in total darkness.
(3). Can be difficult to maintain higher temperatures due to the open
surface design.
(4). Existing equipment can be hard to locate and new items are expensive.
REWIND PROCESSING:
Advantages:
(1). Uses little chemistry, only 1 liter per 2 - 50ft Super 8mm films
or 100ft of Regular 8mm or 16mm film
(2). Requires little space.
(3). Easy to load and unload.
(4). Easy to maintain temperature as processor will sit easily in a
large tray or pan of water to maintain temperature.
(5). Low cost of equipment, only $79.95 to $99.95 for a processor new.
(6). Due to the method used....is very forgiving of processing time/temperature errors.
Disadvantages:
(1). Chemistry oxidises quickly if not reused soon.
(2). Extremely long processing times....1&1/2 hours for 1-50ft film,
and about 2&1/2 hours for 2-50ft films or 100ft 16mm or 100ft Regular 8mm
(3). New units don't have the reversal exposure window....so
removing the cover and winding the reels manually while exposing to
light is a pain at times.
(4). The constant winding back and forth, one full wind per minute,
thus about two turns of the handle per second, can easily tire many
people out by the time they are finished.
HOSE PROCESSING:
Advantages:
(1). Low cost materials involved.
(2). Uses little chemistry
(3). Can be rolled up to operate in a small space (but rewind processing beats them all)
Disadvantages:
(1). Hassles of loading film and unloading from the vinyl hose.
(2). Hassles of chemistry pouring in and out....but not too bad.
(3). Problems of reversal exposure unless you use a clear hose...which
means you have to remain dark until the light steps.
(4). Potential for disaster if you aren't careful.
(5). Best used to lengths not longer than 25ft.
RACK & TANK(or TRAY) METHOD:
Advantages:
(1). Cheap, you can make your rack yourself
(2). The rack is also your drying rack...no need to remove film until dry.
(3). Easy to move film from tray to tray or tank to tank...or just drain out tray, and refill with next step.
Disadvantages:
(1). Lots of aerial oxidation due to the open trays.
(2). Requires quite a bit of chemistry, up to half gallon or gallon depending on your design.
(3). Accidents with physical damage to film if you aren't careful handling it...but this is true with every method.
(4). Added cost since you have to use more chemistry, and thus mix up more.