Due to the cost of sound striping a given film...it usually is recommended to post stripe a film after completion of editing (in Super 8mm). However....if certain segments have to have sound matched to them from double-system (synch or wild), then it's best to have certain segments sound striped so those segments can be worked.

Tape splices are fine as long as they are well done, and the tapes do NOT cover the sound track area (IF using laminate stripe.....IF you use paste stripe...it can usually go right over the tape splices). What most Super 8mm filmmakers do, is use Hama or Wurker splicing tabs which leave both sound track areas clear. There are some other tapes as well. If you use Kodak Presstapes or HP Quick Splice or similar...you will have to cut one of the tapes or sides so that the sound track area isn't covered. With the Kodak ones, it's quite easy to do, since the there are two separate tapes for both sides of the film.

On wrap-around splices, you can cut one edge so that the main track isn't covered...but the wrap-around part will still cover over the balance stripe area. If you aren't using a balance stripe, then this isn't a bother. Even so....there is a liquid sound track product made in Germany, called Liquid Sound, which you can apply right over the edge of the film onto the tape splices. When dry it is sound stripe. There may be some impedence matching variation between it and any laminate stripe you may be using...but it will be only momentary and much better than a complete dropout in the sound.

Cement splicing is fine, as long as you make good cement splices. The better cement splices are made by good quality cement splices such as the BOLEX 8mm splicer, and EUMIG/HAMA/HAHNEL etc Sonomatic motorized type cement splicers. All of these splicers if used properly and carefully will make a beveled edge 1/4 frame overlap or smaller. You can even use most conventional cement splicers such as the overlap Craig/Kalart...however...you would need to have a separate scraper to scrap the baseside of the leading piece of film...this will create a 'seat' for the overlap, in conjunction with the scraped emulsion portion of the trailing section. While not as nice as a beveled splice....it will seat much tidier and allow for better sound striping. The LPL is an overlap splicer, but is only 1/3 frame or smaller, and originally comes with an additional scrapper for the baseside of the leading film section.

On overlap tape splices.....use a single edged razor blade and 'shave' off the overlap part along the edge of the film. On all types of splices....feel the edges of the film where the splice is and 'shave' off any film edge protrusion (often due to a very slight misalignment or film width variations etc) with the single-edged razor blade. This will allow for a more perfect transport thru the projector or telecine.

AND...perhaps MOST IMPORTANTLY...is that films once sound striped....yes...that's correct....they SHOULD be cleaned and lubricated. The lubrication is very important. Films are usually cleaned free of all lubrication by the film striping company you use. Most however, do not relubricate the films afterward. Perhaps they might for an additional fee, but you could ask if they do.

So in conclusion here.....perfectly made splices (with whichever method or splicer you are using), film edges 'shaved' off nicely for a smooth feel, and film relubrication after sound striping....will allow for a nice smooth transport thru your projector. Especially important since you have to consider....that you will be recording on the sound stripe(s) as well.

Best wishes,
Martin W. Baumgarten

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