Stego's FAQ on India travel (Places 1/3)

Subject: Places to see (Rajasthan, Bombay, others).

Date: 11 Jul 95

From: "Susan Z. Martin" <ud877@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>

Mario:

Again this is for a lady traveller - if you are interested in a city that I haven't talked about (like most of those in the south) please write and ask about it.

Susan

Well Kate I'm back and it just so happens that the subject I'm going to tell you about now is probably the one I know most about. That's Udaipur. Eklingji is the village that I lived in for 5 months and where my husband still lives. And as your guidebook will tell you it is 22 km outside Udaipur. So I know Udaipur very well although of course I don't do that many of the touristy things there as it is the place where we go to shop for vegetables, books, see movies, buy beer and get pictures developed.

Anyway - Udaipur has this reputation for being the Venice of India and la de da and all that. But that's not how I see it of course because most of my dealings with it were carried out at the Delhi Gate part of town which is some distance from Jagdish Chowk and Lake Pichola which are pretty and tranquil. Yes the Jagdish Chowk area is very nice, lots of other tourists to chat with, my cousin Kailash who is really a sweetie works in a clothing shop there and you can stay cheaply and eat quite well. You'll get a lot of come ons and you'll be romanced like mad - Rajasthani boys are casanovas and (not to be _too_ vulgar about it) most of them have had a little taste of white flesh and can't get enough. When you consider what the average Indian mans sex life is like (with the lights out, over in moments and very physical) it's not surprising that once they find out how the other half lives they don't want to go back to Indian girls - even if they're married to one (I know it sounds dreadful and it is but try and see it from their point of view and not be too judgmental). This is not the story with either Kailash or my husband who are relatively 'unsullied' (although I wouldn't like to say what Kailash is up to these days but don't tell him that if you meet him :)

In Udaipur the Jagdish temple is okay and the City Palace is quite awesome and interesting (although again not cheap - I think it's 20 rupees). Shyam and I tried unsuccessfully to get out to have dinner at the Lake Palace but their booking procedure is so restrictive (you can only book a table from 8-10 a.m. of the day you want to dine) that it's almost impossible to get in. If you like thali (Indian vegetarian all you can eat) there are a couple of good ones - Garden Hotel at 30 Rs including sweet (it's just near Gulab Bagh) and Natraj Lodge (behind Bapu Bazaar, not far from the petrol station near the two cinemas on town hall road) at 22 rupees (no sweet). I don't know if you can get in the monsoon palace but it's a nice walk (ha! - it's quite strenuous - I did it with a diabetic Englishman who I was scared was going to go into insulin shock on me it was so hot and tiring a trek) and the views are superb. There are lots of interesting things to buy and a couple of nice parks. I've never been to Shilpgram but I hear it is good.

Then of course there is Eklingji and with Shyam as a guide you can really enjoy that. He can also take you to Nathdwara which I hear is letting foreigners into its previously restricted Krishna temple these days. Eklingji is really peaceful and if you want a real taste of rural life in Rajasthan stay a few days with Shyam (and your friend is welcome too). He can take you to an ashram up in the hills too if you like. Chitoorgarh is also interesting and I would strongly suggest a day trip there as I could never see anywhere decent to stay when we went (Shyam's maternal grandmother lives in a village quite close to Chitoorgarh and we stayed with her when we went). Our house in Eklingji has toilet, shower and lots of (presently) unfurnished rooms so you can be quite comfortable and private.

Bombay - another of my favourite places although Shyam absolutely loathes it. It is everything the guidebook says - expensive, dirty, crowded. But it is also exciting, dynamic, lively, positive (in some strange way) and vibrant. You can still get some dreadful tiny rooms in Colaba for 150 or 100 Rs. If you are a twosome you will have better luck. Please don't stay at a place called Bentleys as a favour to me - they refused to rent a room to Shyam and I when I tried to book it by mail and then decided to keep the deposit I had sent. There are lots of touts in Bombay and you can get a decently priced room if you are not too fussy about cleanliness. But do be careful with your stuff.

Colaba is just a blast for me but that is because I am fairly friendly terms with most of the 'Kerala boys' who make up 90% of the merchants who line the causeway selling things. Again if you take my picture and say 'Susan says hello' they'll know who you mean. They are really sweet, genuine people and this was brought home to me forcefully when my mother was very ill in India and they couldn't do enough to help. Another friend is the manager of Kamat Restaurant (a great place to eat) whose name is Srinivas. I think he was always kind of after me a bit but he never pushed it and would sit with me while I ate and get me refills of things I liked for free from the kitchen. A real honey.

No particular recommendations of places to stay - there are some newer places which are quite expensive, say 600 Rs per night, but if you could get a double for that and weren't staying long it might be worth it. The Prince of Wales Museum is worth a visit and by all means stroll through the Taj Mahal Intercontinental and use the toilet! Elephanta is nice if you're not going to Ellora. The art gallery is interesting and is close to Colaba. The Hanging Gardens are worth it for the view. The aquarium is pathetic (although I haven't been there in ages) so I shouldn't say.

That's about all I have to say about Bombay. Most people hate it but I love it. I feel like it's an old friend and I love all the different eating choices (food in Rajasthan is BORING). I've never been to Goa but have been to Kerala. I don't know how they compare but I must admit that Kovalam beach is looking a bit tired out and littered lately (we were there for Christmas 1993). I hear however that some nice resorts have opened nearby.

I think that's it about India in general although it is very much what you make of it. You can complain the whole time and get neurotic about the state of your bowels or you can just keep your eyes, ears and mind open and reserve judgment. It is an easy place to hate. I think that it is a major mistake to only go for 5 weeks as frankly I hated it for the first 5 weeks. But everyone is different and I hope that you can enjoy it (or if not enjoy it at least not loathe it completely). If you are truly interested in learning something about the 'real' India I would strongly advise you to slow down and spend some time in medium sized places like Udaipur where tourism hasn't had such a strong influence. And if you would like to really get into the intricacies of peoples lives in India then go and see Shyam and spend a few days with him as your guide. If you tell him that I have sent you (and of course I'll tell him that you're coming) you can stay with him for nothing and your only expense will be for 'raw materials' for meals (you'll probably like to help him cook - I have taught him lots but he still tends to overcook things and turn out mushy vegetables, yuck!).

... ...

P.S. Paul - obviously this was written for a woman traveller with different interests than yours but I hope it may be helpful. In case I didn't mention it before my husband is in India (he is Indian) and you should feel free to go and see him if you have time (he lives in Eklingji - 22 km north of Udaipur)

Subject: Some impressions on Rajasthan; weather in March-May.

From: Whit Wheeler

Date: 23 Mar 96

I just returned from spending several weeks traveling in Rajasthan. It was a fantastic experience and one that I recommend highly if you are one for adventure and can tolerate surprises. I agree with the other writer, a copy of LONELY PLANET's guide to India is a good way to start.

Rajasthan is probably the most popular region for tourists. It's has many layers of history and the people and culture are very interesting. We went from Delhi to Jaipur to Jodhpur to Jaiselmer (including a camel safari) to Udaipur. Each place offered its own enchantment. I cannot wait to go back.

I would say the weather will be changing quite fast in the coming weeks as the monsoon season comes on in late May. I would not want to travel then; the humidity and heat - over 100 degrees fahrenheit someday - would be too oppressive, giving one yet another frustration to deal with. On the other hand, to perhaps best appreciate the strength and character of the Indian people one could make a case for visiting during this time. I understand October is a great time of year, like March but it is green and the lakes have water. ...

Subject: Taj Mahal.

Date: 22 Sep 95

From: Martin Gersten <102034.3545@compuserve.com>

... ...

The Taj itself, on the other hand, was really wonderful. Unfortunately, there is a security problem there and video cameras are not allowed inside the compound. The guards can be bribed for a few rupees to let you video tape from the gate entrance, however.

Don't miss the mosque on the left side of the Taj. The Imam is really nice and will give you a tour and show you good spots for photos.

Subject:

Agra and Rajasthan.
Best time to visit Bharatpur.

From: jsubra@cup.hp.com (Josyula Subrahmanyam)

Date: 23 May 95

Bharatpur:

As a former resident of Bharatpur, I would say that Jul-Aug is an inappropriate time to visit that place. The bird sanctuary is ideal to visit during Nov-Mar when migrating cranes flock there. Replace this with a trip to Mt. Abu on your Rajasthan leg.

Agra:

As a former resident of Agra :-), I would advise a 2-day trip as it would be too hectic to wrap up all things in a day. I feel U should use Shatabdi Express from Delhi to Agra. It starts early morning from Delhi and it returns in the evening from Agra.

On day 1, U could visit Agra Fort and Taj Mahal. In the evening, U could visit the famed markets near the fort on your way back to the hotel.

On day 2, make a trip to Fatehpur Sikri. It is 30km from Agra and would take about 4-5 hours to see the place. U will not be disappointed by it. If U have time in the afternoon/evening, U could see Sikandra which is Akbar's tomb about 8kms from Agra OR, Itmad-ud-daula which is about 2-3 kms away across the river. Try out a local sweet called "petha".

Jaipur:

As someone mentioned, the best way to reach Jaipur is by Shatabdi Express which starts at about 6:00 AM. But, it doesn't leave U with too much time. There are buses which run every hour from a place called Bikaner House which is close to the monument India Gate. If I remember right, every 2 hours, there is an AC bus. It could come in handy when U're staring at 42 degrees centigrade.

To return to Delhi, use the overnight buses. Pink Line is the luxury bus service which I would recommend. There are buses every 15 minutes between 10:30 PM and 1:00 AM.

Subject: Goa.

Date: 18 May 95 From: Brian Scowcroft <bps@cpsc.ucalgary.ca>

Goa is very "non Indian", however it was Portugease and the architecture is still there. There are some very nice beaches, also lots of fancy hotels etc. The best book for India is the Lonely Planets travel guide. Its probably only in English though. Hampi, an ancient deserted city is a few hours away. There are tour flights from Europe to Goa direct, but not from Portugal I guess.

There is a Hydrofoil (fast boat) from Bombay to Goa, also its about $100US to fly. One good thing about Goa is the sea food, you should feel at home. Southern India is very nice, especially Kerala.

Subject: Goa.

Date: 23 May 95

From: Michael@obscure.demon.co.uk

As you can see I'm in the UK. We go to Goa each year - most of the tourism is UK style. If I remember something like 10 flights a week from UK, 1 or 2 from Germany - If they ever get over the 'non-event' plague and 1 or 2 from I think Finland.

This year we are going in November for hopefully upto 4 weeks. October is the start of the holiday season as we went at that period last year. Don't expect much from the power supply as all electricity is from main India and subject to stoppage at any time. You have to remember it is a little third world - Some begging, people selling goods along the beach, cattle on the roads, some tin shack accommodation. Providing you have a reasonable attitude you will enjoy the area. We go to North Goa as it seems better.

Try and go to Goa for their October festival in various towns at night. Taxis are cheap so you need a reasonable driver. Places to visit are Mapusa on Wednesday's for the market, Aguana(spelling??) for their flea market on I think Thursday's. The flea market is where you never thought so many people would want to speak to you (sell really!!). A trip to the waterfalls by train has to be done once for the memorable trip and the view when you get there. You'll need a book as you have to wait so long to get back.

Calangute is quite a lively place to visit. Panjim is like a small capital and drinks on the balcony of the Mandovi Hotel is nice. You get looked at by so many but the people are very nice and I would think in the whole area 99 percent safe for women to walk alone at night!!

... ...

Subject: Goa, Kerala and big cities.

From: x4053960@elise.ee.techpta.ac.za (Alette Schoon)

Date: 18 May 95

Hi Mario

I've just been to India in December. I was in Goa, but was a bit disapointed in that it was full of British tourists - like a British tourist resort! In Goa Colva beach is a less touristy place to stay - try and stay with a family in their home - this is really nice.

Another place for Portuguese heritage is to go to Kerala. This is where Vasco de Gama first landed in India, and has many Portuguese and Dutch relics. Cochin is full of Catholic churches, old forts and coconut trees.

The main thing with India is that you have to get used to many people around you all the time.

The big cities like Bombay are fascinating, life happens on the street, but I found the air polution difficult. One city I really liked was Mysore, this is a smaller city in the Karnataka province, where they make sandalwood oil, and it is the perfume and incense capital. If you use public transport - fly if you have the money - otherwise take the train, buses are awful!

Check out the Lonely Planet India Guidebook - It's very good.

Alette

P.S. If you want to go somewhere less crowded, also with Portuguese heritage and better weather, what about Mozambique - I've been there twice now since peacetime, and it's lovely, especially north of Maputo, near Xia-Xia.

Subject: What to see in Bombay, Delhi and Agra .

Date: 20 Aug 95

From: fihp@aol.com (John D. Child)

... ...

Bombay - Not my favorite spot in India, but an interesting place to visit for a couple of days. Here and in Delhi, look for the Prepaid Taxi stand in the arrival lobby at the airport. You'll pay a fair and standardized fee of $5 to $10 USD for a ride to your hotel. If you want to splurge a bit, the Taj Intercontinental hotel is spectacularly located by the "Gateway of India" overlooking the harbor.

Take a boat ride to Elephanta Island and see the 7th and 8th century cave sculptures. Visit the Parsi Towers of Silence and Ghandi's house. The ?victoria? museum is nice, and the train station's architecture is worth a stop. Wander around a bit in the "thieves market" not far from the train station.

Delhi - India's most western city. I suggest staying near Connaught Circle. Lots of shops and restaurants. Visit the Moghul fort and mosque and the memorial at Ghandi's cremation site. The government buildings and India's "arc de triomphe" are pretty impressive.

Agra - Take the train from Delhi. Agra is worth visiting mostly for the Taj Mahal, which richly deserves being called one of the great wonders of the world. The Red Fort nearby is pretty amazing too. You can take the train from Delhi in the morning and go back in the evening; but if you stay overnight you can go back to the Taj in the evening or early morning, when it's especially beautiful. If you stay overnight, try to go to Fatehpur Sikri, a city built, occupied, and abandoned in the 16th century by the Mogul emperor Akbar. It's in a remarkable state of preservation, and one of my favorite places in India. It's a drive from Agra, and I don't recall there being particularly convenient mass transit. You may need to hire a car and driver (not very expensive).

Goa - I like very much, and of course the Portugese heritage will be fun for you. I would not particularly recommend staying in the city (Panaji) for more than a night. Pick one of the beach villages and stay near the water. Personally I like Baga the best; but they're all nice. At Baga Beach I have stayed at the Baia do Sol.

Rent a small motorbike - Honda 100cc scooters with automatic transmission are common - and explore. There isn't much traffic, and the roads are very safe. Wagator Fort is abandoned but fun to explore, and it's fun to sample the different beaches.

Enjoy!

John Child *******************************************

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Subject:

Accomodation costs.
Bombay, Goa, Agra, Jaipur and Delhi.

Date: 9 Aug 95

From: mike <mikeb@innotts.co.uk>

At 21:14 08/08/95 +0100, you wrote:

>Thank you for your reply. I'll be looking for clean couple or double

>rooms with attached bath and running hot shower, middle price for

>India standards, which I believe may be USD $10-$30 or less.

... ...

Ive read your answer to someone regarding Nepal, so you obviously know what to expect from India. I travel to both Nepal and India regularly, and while Nepal is cleaner and very spectacular, I still like to go back to India most. I was last there in February, and before that in November. The main cities of the tourist trail are getting too full of package tourists, but the travellers scene is second to none.

My most magic moments in India were not in tourust resorts or cities, but simply in the middle of nowhere, where the unexpected has the habit of happening.

Hotels vary in standard from doss houses at around 40 rupees (double in big cities) to five star world class luxury, where the 40% tax is added to already very high prices. Your price range is too high for Indian local hotels, and not enough for the international standard four star plus, due to the excessive tax levied.

There are unremarkable but clean modern hotels in every city with air conditioning and private facilities for 400 rupees, again double in major city. There are too many to recommend individually, but a taxi or rickshaw will soon take you to his favourite (in terms of commission). Fix the fare before you jump in and pay about half of the starting price. My best recommendation is to look for the older bungalow type buildings rather than modern multi storey places. Avoid air conditioning, as all rooms have a ceiling fan. YMCAs are a very good place to stay in cities.

New Delhi:

Try the YMCA, but Nirulas in Connaught Place is very clean indeed. Several other hotels in this area. Again I stay in Old delhi near the station where a flea pit will cost only 50-60 rupees. Book in advance if you can.

Jaipur:

Worth a trip ifr you can make it. The Arya Niwas hotel - is one of the best cheap hotels in India. Lawns, good food and spotless clean rooms for only 120-250 rupees.

Agra:

Very touristy - you may have to pay more here - shop around. The Taj Mahal is worth the trip to India on its own, but there's nothing else to see there. Get out fast!

Goa:

Well it depends what you are looking for. Much of Goa has been taken over by the English and German package tour operators, much like Faro in your own country. The hotels are good value, but tend to be block-booked. Calangute to Baga is superb for a family beach holiday with very busy beaches but plenty of western facilities. If you like this sort of place, then Candolim has some nice places to stay - very mediterranean in atmosphere.

Colva is awful. Avoid at all costs! Concrete and stinks of fish.

Panjim the capital is very quaint - try a night there at the Panjim Inn, with a four poster bed - you will be fascinated with the Portuguese atmosphere in the old quarter. 250 rupees.

My favourite places are north of Anjuna, and very far north at Arambol.

Very basic there though. Rooms 40 rupees, but only clay floor and walls and rough wooden furniture. Hire a scooter to get around, so a remote location isnt a problem.

Arrival at Bombay:

Bus to city is ok, every hour or so. (about 35 rupees) Tickets before you leave the arrivals hall. Pay nobody outside unless you are sure they are working on the bus. Same goes for taxis - should get a pre-paid taxi voucher to the city - its a long way - but the Taj Hotel at the Gateway to India is a good place to start. Budget hotels on Colaba Causeway start there. Do not pay anything else to the taxi driver - many are honest, but many are not and will try tricks like pretending to run out of petrol. All Bombay taxis carry a fare chart with official fares. Demand to see it.

Also a train from Bombay to Vile Parlay near the airport is only 4 rupees.

Then a short rickshaw or bus ride. Dont try it with heavy luggage though.

Personally I don't like Bombay - its just a modern city with few landmarks worth seeing. If you have an early flight from the International Airport back from India you might stay at Juhu Beach instead of the main city, as it is a good hours travel to the airport from the city.

I hope in all of this there is something of use. Enjoy your trip!

___

regards from mike

Derby, UK

http://www.innotts.co.uk/~mikeb

mikeb@innotts.co.uk

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