Stego's FAQ on Nepal travel v.3 - Annapurnas 1/3

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Subject(s): Annapurna Circuit in late July

Keywords: Annapurnas, Weather, Travelogues

From: Patrick Groenen <groenen@ruls30.fsw.leidenuniv.nl>

Date: 95.04.10(Id.: 80)


……

Last year I traveled a small part of the Annapurna circuit during the monsoon season end of July (I believe the monsoon season starts in June to end of August). The weather was not so bad. Ocassionally, there was an enormous shower, usually at night, and during daytime it was usually dry.

Bring an umbrella from Kathmandu (against sun or rain). I liked the monsoon time because there where hardly any tourists, the weather was not too rainy, and the nature was very green. Of course, the clouds prevents the famous views on the snowcapped mountains.

We took the local bus from Dumre to Besisahar which took us about 5 to 6 hours, I think. A very busy bus, where you may have to sit on top. On top is probably the best place, because you can see around, which is much harder inside. Be protected against rain or sun. From Besisahar we walked our way to Bhul-bhule, and further to Baundanda, which is how far we got.

In Baundanda there is an excelent clean and quiet Hotel called Mountain View hotel. They serve good vegetarian food. The owner (Dinesh) is a very friendly person.

During the monsoon time the track is quiet. You should have no problem whatsoever to find hotels. During season I heard from various people that it can become busy. If you arrive late hotels may be full. As far as I know you can camp in the wild in the area that your trecking permit allows for. I don't think it is necessary to camp since on these tea trails there are plenty hotels. Bringing your own camping stuff implies that you have to carry it all with you. On such a trail, every kg counts! I would choose for hotels. Of course hotels are very basic on this track and rooms are small.

It can get quite cold (in summer around freezing) at higher altitude.

Therefore, bring a rain-wind jack, at least one warm pullover, mountain shoes.

I enjoyed the part I walked. The next time I would like to walk more and try the pass.

Patrick Groenen



Subject(s): Annapurna Circuit - best time to do it and other advices

Keywords: Annapurnas, Weather

From: Bruce R. <onthabeach@aol.com>

Date: 95.04.12(Id.: 81)


I hiked the Annapurna Circuit in October-November 92 and agree with Frank's detailed response.

But for my own observations (Sorry, about the spellings, but my guide books are on loan.)

:

Hike the route counter clockwise, it gives you more time to get in the swing of things before the trail gets rocky and steep. The trail between Jomson and Phokra is popular with trekkers and you'll have no problem finding comfortable inns. However the first two thirds of trek isn't so developed and life will be more rugged - don't look for hot shower in your first two weeks. My favorite village was Tal. It's the first Buddhist village you'll come to and nestled in a steep-walled valley with a waterfall that equals Yosemite's.

Also check out the temple at Braga a few miles from Manang..

Start in early October. The longer you wait the more likely Throung La is likely to be snowed out.

Give yourself at least three weeks. The first and last week will be warm.

The middle third will be the highest and the coldest. From Manang to the pass expect freezing conditions at night.

Yes, I enjoyed myself, even after getting sick on Day 7.

One other hint. Order the circuit trip descriptions from outfitters to get a sense of how to pace your trip and where to stay. And hire a porter.

They need the jobs and the money.

Bruce R.



Subject(s):

Keywords: Annapurnas

From: Rajendra Kumar Joshi <rkjoshi@acs.ucalgary.ca>

Date: 95.04.13(Id.: 82)


……

The word is "trek", the word comes from the Dutch via the South : African Boers. "Trek" in Dutch means "pull", the Boers had covered wagons : that they pulled. Trekkers in Nepal dont't pull any kind of wagon, but the term has come to mean a 'a strenous journey.'

Anyway, to answer your question: 5000-10,000 trekkers per year 'do' the Annapurna Circuit. The majority of these do so in the spring and fall, summer is monsoon time and in the winter the Thorung La (pass) tends to be closed. The annual number is far less than the number of people you can expect to run into at a US national park on the July the 4th weekend.

Most people go anti-clockwise around the Annapurna Massive, if the pass is closed you will meet people coming back, discouraged. Don't get discouraged, the chances are good the pass will be open by the time you get there.

If you walk fast you will pass some people. If you go slow you will be passed. If you walk at 'average' speed you will meet fewer people.

People tend to congregate at certain places. In Manang to hear the Himalayan Rescue Association talk about high altitude sickness (do go and attend, it may save your life.) Because of the danger of high alt. sickness people also like to have a rest day at Manang. You can explore the lake and the glacier. I also saw some vultures eating dead horses that had been dumped in a stream ( I got to within about 2 meters of them, they are very graceful when you see them gliding in the air, but up close they look more revolting.)

At Thorung Phedi people congregate to go over the pass. Normal departure time is between 3 am and 6 am, so that you get over the pass before the snow gets too sloshy as the sun warms it up at the summit..It helps if the moon is available to light up your way. Please boycott the rolls and other bready things that are baked at Thorung Phediall the brush for miles around is being sacrificed in the oven for it and you are better off eating porridge before starting over the pass. The porridge contains more water to help counteract dehydration at the high altidude.

The next place where people congregate is Tatto (hot) pani (water) the site of some VERY HOT hot springs. You will loll in the concrete pool with Hindu Sadhus from India who are on their way to the shrines at Muktinath.

After Tatopani there is a day of continuous climbing to Gorepani where, early the next morning, everyone who can drag themselves out of bed at dawn climbs another couple of hundred meters up to Poon Hill for a view of Daulaghiri, the Annapurnas and Machapuchare and a few other peaks.

All in all, you will meet some people along the way. You will probably like them, as they are people like yourself who are into travel and adventure and are willing to leave the comfort of the Holiday Inn far behind.

>- can you camp in the wild

Yes. If you plan to do this it would be a good idea to bring a tent that doesnt let too much wind in. It is possible to go from lodge to lodge.

I took a tent on my trek to Makalu and one night the only reasonably flat place to camp was on the trail (it wasnt very busy, especially at night.) The coldest night I have ever spent anywhere was in the Annapurna Sanctuary. There I slept in a hut with the wind blowing through the cracks between the rock in the wall. I had tried to invite myself into the (wind proof) tent of some Americans who were camped nearby to no avail.

Even though I slept between my Sherpa guide and another Nepali who was there I was COLD that night (and the space blanket I had wrapped around myself retained all the moisture from my body so that my sleeping bag was soaking wet in the morning.

>- how cold does it get on the highest parts of the track

Cold enough. Good idea to be prepared with down jacket, warm pants, long underwear. Hat, and gloves. Dont forget to bring sunglasses against the glare. Remember to keep drinking liquids even when it is very cold. One time trekking at high altitude I felt very strange, not well, but I couldnt explain what was wrong with what I was feeling. Having descended a ways I drank some water and within minutes I felt better, I had experienced the biochemichal side effects of dehydration. As I mentioned earlier, porridge (or soup) can be a good way to take in WARM liquids at altitude.

>Did you enjoy your track?

What do you think? s8*)



Subject(s): Flying from Pokhara to Jomsom

Keywords: Annapurnas, Airplanes & Airports

From: Mário Pires <stego@cfn.ist.utl.pt>

Date: 95.07.05(Id.: 153)


I've flighted Jomsom-Pokara-Jomsom last November and there were no problems. I knew a there a couple that had done the same in October.

It's said that the Jomsom "airport" is a dangerous one because of the winds, and that looked me very true after having to walk in the Kaligandaki valley in the afternoon, but we were told that the wind blows hard only after the mid morning. Anyway, it seems that only the best pilots are chosen to do those flights, because it's a really hard and dangerous trip - beside the wind in Jomsom, there are much thermal streams. One goes beside big snowed peaks and there is a time that one flies very close to a high valley (I think that we fly very near the maximum altitude for an unpressurized plane).

But it's one of a kind experience! I haven't flighted much, specially in small planes, but I believe that it's one of the most beautiful air trip in the world.



Subject(s):

Keywords: Annapurnas, Transportation, Health, Airplanes & Airports

From: Mário Pires <stego@cfn.ist.utl.pt>

Date: 95.08.31(Id.: 154)


… …

Concerning altitude, my only problem were my ears after landing in Pokara coming from Jomsom, but I've experienced worse in some intercontinental and other kind of flights. I had no problems walking from Jomsom (3000 m) to Muktinath (3800 m) even I am not used neither to altitude neither to treking much. The highest I had been before was 2800 m in a jeep and a little less than 2000 m walking.

I don't think that there are direct flights Jomsom-Kathmandu, probably you'll have to go to Pokara again.

I don't know how is your schedule, but I risk 2 advises if you have time:

- Since you go to Jomsom, try to see Kagbeni and Muktinath - it's just 1 or 2 more days, and the landscape it's rather different from that you'll find before Jomsom. I'd not be lying to you if I say that I could go back in Nepal just for seeing the sunset and sunrise in Jarkot, although I have plenty of other reasons to go back. I've been told it's much like Mustang and Tibet. If you have the chance, try to do the Kagbeni->Jomsom way in the morning. The wind and dust can be *very* nasty and you'll be walking against it.

- Make the trip Kathmandu-Pokara by bus at least once. It's not easy to spend 6 or 7 hours in a pre-historic bus rolling in a really bad road (the Tribhuwan Highway, they call it), but again the landscape it's breath taking, and it was the only chance I had to know the Nepal outside Kathmandu, the Annapurnas or the Terai (Chitwan).



Subject(s): Altitude problems in Annapurna at the Marpha - Jomsom - Muktinath area

Keywords: Annapurnas, Health

From: Mário Pires <stego@cfn.ist.utl.pt>

Date: 96.01.29(Id.: 162)


...

pkums@ruby.arts.kuleuven.ac.be (Peter Kums) wrote:

>Jon Aldridge (jra) wrote:

>: bkmemtn@gnn.com (William Kann) wrote:

>: >I need information from anyone who has been to Tibet regarding the

>: >effects of the high altitude and anything that can be done to

>: >combat it.

>: >.....

I've never been to Tibet (although I'd like to), and I have litlle mountain experience, but let me tell you about my highest experience.

The highest I've ever been was in the Annapurna region, Nepal, where I did a small trek from Jomsom (3000 mts) to Muktinath (3700-3800 mts). I don't do any sports, I don't walk too much, I smoke and I had been above 1000 meters only a douzen times. Before I went to Nepal, my altitude records were 2000-2200 mt here in Portugal and Pirenes and 2600-2800 in Atlas. Anyway, in Portugal and Pirenes I didn't walk more than a few Km per day, and in Atlas I moved in a jeep.

Our trek began with a 30-45 m plane trip that left us at 3000 mts. After a quick breakfast we were climbing a river valley. In spite of not being used to trek, we ended up doing in one day what many persons do in day and a half.

Perhaps the main reason was not our good shape compared to the rest of the people, instead, we were simply less careful than the others. Anyway, we were carrying only little bags with cloth for 3 days, some water and a photo machine with one spare lense; things could have been diferent if we were more loaded. We were told that we did wrong in beginning trek imediatly after leaving the airplane. It's more clever to give the body more time to adapt to altitude.

All went well, apart my girl companion suffered a little in the falling of the 1st day, but perhaps it had nothing to do with altitude. She tires a lot when climbing and she very determinate, so she was very angry when we didn't manage to meet our objective: sleep in Muktinath. Anyway, after a warm dinner with some hot tea and talk, a big sleep in the dirtiest and coldest room with the most spectacular view and a breakfast, she was smiling the morning after.

The psicological matters are as important as the physical, and with that magnificent landscape, one forgets everything bad!

For the little I've read, people react very diferently from one other to altitude. It's quite common accepted that above 3000 mts almost everyone notes something, even if one doesn't "suffer" with it, but there are persons that suffer above 1500 mts. My sister had permanent light headaches when we were driving in Atlas at 2000-2800 mts.



Subject(s): Brief impressions of a trip

Keywords: Annapurnas, Miscelaneous, Travelogues

From: Naomi S. Smith <daccordo@iac.co.jp>

Date: 96.02.05(Id.: 234)


>...

>Thank you for taking the time to share with me your thoughts on Nepal and

>India. Indeed your comments were the most complete and insightful that I

>have received to date.

Thanks. I have a lot of good memories of the trip and would like to share these, because many people I met did not enjoy it. A lot of it has to do with attitude and preparation and being able to accept when things don't go as planned. Not making a strict timetable is essential. If you can't get somewhere, dont worry about what you might have missed. Just enjoy what you ARE experiencing. It's more than most of your friends and family even dream about.

>May I ask you some more questions: Which route did you take in Nepal for

>your 10 days? And would there be any way of locating the guide that went

>around with you. (After initially thinking that a guide was not necessary we

>have come to think that one would be well worth the price.) Did you bring

>your own sleeping bag and equipment or did you rent everything in Kathmandu?

My friends and I just asked the manager of the hotel in Pokhara when we arrived. He introduced us to one man and we liked him. I suggest this over arranging it in Kathmandu, as some of those tour guides try to take a big chunk of wages or tell you to meet up with someone who might not be there, since communications are difficult. Meeting the person first is good. You will pay more for someone who speaks english and offers to tell you things, less for a man who just guides you on the trail and chooses accomodatins. I met two british bird watchers who hired a special guide who spoke very good English and knew a lot about birds. They had a great time.

I had a sleeping bag, but rented a down jacket and good hiking boots in Kathmandu (KTM). You can rent stuff in Pokhara too or where ever your trek starts, though it was a weight off our shoulders to know we had it before we left. I think it all came to about $5 for the whole two weeks, or may $10 but worth not having to drag it all over the world before and after the trip.

I trekked from Pokhara in the Annapurnas, spend a week going to Jomsom where one girl left me to fly back. I spent the next week or so on my own, but met up with other people. I went to a lama dancing festival in Tukche then to Kagbeni, north of Jomsom - I highly recommend this place. It is like time has forgotten it. One of my favorite places. I made a day trek alone from kagbeni to Muktinath, a holy place. It's a good 8 hours of walking there and back but amazing to be alone in the mountains.

Dont forget to visit the small towns near KTM in the valley. You can walk to some or take abus or hire a taxi. They have many beautiful temples and hardly any tourists.



Subject(s):

Keywords: Annapurnas, Guides & porters, Miscelaneous

From: Per Löwdin <per.lowdin@statsvet.uu.se>

Date: 96.02.20(Id.: 83)


don_eydenberg@chdqm.sps.mot.com (Don Eydenberg) wrote:

>1) How risky is it hiring your own porters?

Impossible to say. If You are foolish some poor guy may disappear with Your passport and money.

Generally, however, nepali people are friendly and easy to get along with.

>2) How many porters do you recommend for 2 people (i.e. 1 sirdar,

>2 porters)?

To be straight. You do not need porters at all to go around Annapurna. There are lodgings all the way: nice nepali hotels. All of them have sprung up to cater for trekers. The food is good. They are accustomed to cook for westerners. In most places You can hire a private room. In short everything You need if found along the trail. All You have to bring is a tooth brush, money and a change of clothes. You also need a down jacket, gloves, and a cap. A good sleeping bag may also be very useful. In order to cross Thorung La You need good shoes. You may have to walk in snow for most of a day. Most probably there will be a well trodden path. But You still need sturdy comfortable shoes. Make sure You bring as little as possible. The less You bring the swifter You can walk.

>3) Where's the best place to find porters to hire?

You can do it in two ways: either You bring them from Kathmandu with a sardar etc, or You hire a porter only when You are absolutely exhausted. It may be hard to find porters in Manang or Mukthinath. The people there do not particularly fancy being beasts of burden. They may even offer to put Your stuff on a horse.

>4) How much should we expect to pay?

I do not know: a lot I hope.

>I assume lodging and food for porter's should be included in the cost?

Absolutely: You will have to pay for it. Sometimes it is part of the bargaining: i.e., you either pay for the work plus food or you just pay for the work and the kuli manages his own food.

In the latter case You pay a little more and may find that while You are having excellent food the guys who carry Your gear eat a poor fare in order to save what they earn.

>5) Our understanding is the Annapurna circuit is extremely popular, are

>we better to use our tent then to stay in Tea houses?

You are right it is extremely popular. One advantage of this is that the trekk is very easy to do: there are comfortable friendly places with nice food all the way just waiting for You.

There is no reason to bring porters along. I think a tent just represents a couple of extra kilos. You will have little or no use of it.

>6) the list goes on...

If You go with porters after all You should take good care that they are properly equipped for the Thorung La. It is not a difficult pass in normal conditions. But it is very high 5400 meters, and there will be some snow. The porters need good shoes, down jackets, etc. Sardars in Kathmandu will have the proper gear. But the poor guys who do the portering do not. I have met germans taking up porters without shoes on Thorung La. It was snowing! Disgusting exploitation of poor people.

Final advice: make sure You are really light weight and walk on your own. You will have a splendid time.

Per



Subject(s): Weather in early May (Annapurnas)

Keywords: Annapurnas, Weather

From: Phil Pucci <pdpucci@execpc.com>

Date: 96.03.21(Id.: 48)


>......

Based on my trekking experience in the Annapurna region in early May, 1994:

The leeches are a pain. They got to me after a while. They introduce an anticoagulant into the bloodstream so the would will bleed and bleed and bleed. I have vivid memories of Nepali porters (and some tourists) removing leeches from their legs and the resulting blood bath. They will go right through thick socks.

Yes, some days it rains _all_ day and others days there are breaks in the rain. The paths become very slippery (muddy).

Still, if my only option to visit Nepal was May, I would go. One benefit is that there is hardly anyone else on the trails or in the tea houses.

pdp



Subject(s): Monsoon trekking in Nepal (Annapurna circuit in August)

Keywords: Annapurnas, Weather

From: Per Löwdin <per.lowdin@statsvet.uu.se>

Date: 96.03.27(Id.: 49)


Alan T Sorensen <ats@MIT.EDU> wrote:

>......

>out a) if it's even worth going,

Yes it is!

>and b) if so, where are the driest/best places to go during that time of year.

North of the Great Himalayan ridge where there is rain shadow.

Wherever you go trekking in Nepal during the monsoon you have to get up among the mountains and preferably on their north side, though even high side valleys may be OK. With regard to the Annapurna circuit I do not think it makes a big difference which way you go nowadays. In the past it did. Then, the route up the Marsyangdi was regarded as very difficult and the summer route to Manang went through a high pass in the Lamjung Himal west of the Marsyangdi Gorge.

Now, they have made a new track. It seems to be quite safe. I have been in Manang twice during the monsoon and met many tourists who came in that way, though I never did it my self. I always went in and out via the passes towards Jomosom, Thorung La and Meso Kanto La.

I think past Bagarchap and past Kalopani, on the Manang and the Jomosom side respectively, you are out of the worst rain. There may still be a slight drizzle now and then but that is not bad. On the Jomosom side the valley is rather deep so most of the clouds seem to pass over head into Mustang and Tibet, the valley floor is rather dry whereas the side valley where clouds get stuck are green.

A good rule for monsoon trekking is to plan for worst case scenarios. Every year there is some disastrous rains. If You are trekking You must have sufficient time to wait for the rain to stop and the land slides to cease. -One year when I was in Manang there was one of these storms. Thousands of people lost their homes, the roads collapsed, etc. However, in Manang all we noticed was a two day drizzle. Not worse than normal summer weather in Scandinavia.

It may also be a good idea to bring a light fording rope. 3 or 4 mm, 25 meter long. If the monsoon brings any problems for trekers it is usually that minor streams become very swollen. A rope gives You completely different abilities to cross safely if it has become very bad. It is not rivers You have to cross in this way, there are good bridges. It is rather side streams, coming down in side valleys and gullies, that can cause unexpected problems.

We may be going ourselves this monsoon though we have not quite made up our minds yet. Then, we may attempt the pass through Lamjung Himal, just for fun.

Though we are still weighing other options: Ladakh, Spiti, Kumaoun, and even just climbing in the Alps.

Per



Subject(s):

Keywords: Annapurnas

From: Per Löwdin <per.lowdin@statsvet.uu.se>

Date: 96.04.10(Id.: 89)


vermeere@iaehv.nl (Noeg) wrote:

>We are going to do the annapurna circuit for the second time and we're

>interested in doing some sidetrips. We're just teahouse trekers, so we won't

>bring a tent, cooking stuff, etc.

>If anyone could give us some information about trekking to one of the

>following places, we would be very helpfull:

>- Dhaulagiri icefall

>- Dhampus pass

>- Tilicho lake

>- Manaslu/crossing the Larkya La

>- North Annapurna Base camp

>Did anyone went to one of these spots? How long did it take to get there (and

>back). Are there any goTH's . etc

I do not think any of these places are suitable for "teahouse" trekers. I have no personal experience of the Dhaulagiri-icefall. So I cannot say. I have been heading up towards the Dhampus pass, from Jomosom and from Marpha. I never made it to the pass, as I was only on day hikes. But I can tell that You need tent and stove. I was twice to Tilicho Lake. It is uninhabited. You definitely need a tent, food and a stove. The path is rather demanding. Although it has been improved in the nineties it is still distinctly unpleasant -even for experienced mountaineers- at one point where it passes an exposed, very steep and lose scree slope. It takes two days to reach the lake from Manang. The trekk should be done during the monsoon when the lake is not frozen.

Larkya La is still closed, as far as I know, for independent trekers. It is a shame. I would love to do it. I am not certain what You mean with North Annapurna Base camp. If You are thinking about the glacier north west of the highest peak my immediate reaction is that it would be rather difficult. You have to ascend from the Kali Gandaki though dense jungles on next to non- existant paths. It would be very steep and 'djungaly', and You would have to gain a lot of altitude in a very short time. I cannot say for certain but I think it is a very difficult route, even if you carry tent and food.

One option You did not mention is to go from Pokhara to Khudi in the Marsyngadi Gorge. I did it more than twenty years ago and found it very interesting. The route crosses the heart-land of the proud and friendly Gurung people. You do not need any equipment to do this. Though to know at least some Nepali will help a lot. It is also, of course, possible to go via Gandrung to or from Ghorepani. Otherwise it seems to me that there are not many sidetrips to do from the annapurna circuit. Of course it is always possible to hike high for the day. There are small Gompas and high pastures one do day hikes to all along the main trekking route. But as soon as one leaves it there is not much.

Especially if You do not speak Nepali.

It strikes me that if You have not done the other trekking routes in Nepal You perhaps should consider the Everest trekk or the Langtang trekk. We have done both during the monsoon season and had a splendid time: though to cross Ganja La between Langtang and Helambu safely You need a tent. Khumbu is wonderful during the monsoon.

Regards

Per



Subject(s):

Keywords: Annapurnas

From: Phil Pucci <pdpucci@execpc.com>

Date: 96.04.12(Id.: 90)


I did a day hike (side trip from doing the Annapurna Circuit) to the Dhauligiri ice-fall in 1994. We left very early in the morning from a tea house in Larjung. We had some difficulty locating the route enroute but we made it without any problems. As a side benefit to reaching the Dhauligiri glacier, we we blessed with great views of the Annapurna range. It was marvelous. Yak herders were camped near the glacier just above the tree line. There was an enormous herd of yaks milling about.

After marveling at the sights, we returned back to Larjung, grabbed our full packs, and made it to Lower Ghasa before evening.

The pace we trekked at was above average. One person in our group of three couldn't maintain the pace and dropped out fairly early. I had been pressed to an all out effort to keep up with my very able German trekking partner "Jupp". He is the reason we were able to cover as much ground as we did. This also afforded us enough time to enjoy our time "up there" and to get some great photos.

Good luck on your trip. I, too, am returning to do the Annapurna Circuit this fall. This time I have convinced seven others to accompany me.

Phil



Subject(s):

Keywords: Annapurnas, Weather

From: Hans-Gerrit Vogt <vogt@mbox.zsr.uni-hannover.de>

Date: 96.04.12(Id.: 91)


Hallo,

I have been at the Dhampus pass last year at the beginning of Nov. We made the tour coming from Ringmo, via Do, Dhorpatan, Dhau BC, French coll finishing at Marpha. From my opinion its not possible to go there without tents. Furthermore you might get difficulties with altitude thickness going from Marpha because of the steep rise, if you are not accustomed.

You have to look especially for the weather conditions. The weather in the direct neighbourhood of Dhau can be quite different from that at Marpha. A trecking group in front of ours lost 4 persons by death in a sudden blizzard at Dhampus pass.

Be cautious!



Subject(s):

Keywords: Annapurnas, Chitwan, Kathmandu, Miscelaneous, Travelogues

From: Gary Wong <garywong@orbonline.net>

Date: 96.04.14(Id.: 92)


Hi Peter,

I just returned from spending 4 amazing weeks (all of March) in Nepal.

It's a great place and I'm sure you'll love it. I hope you'll spend enough time to enjoy what Nepal has to offer.

My friend and I, spent 2 weeks trekking in the Annapurna Region near Pokhara. I trust you already have a guide book so I don't have to explain where the Annapurna's are located. If not, I strongly suggest you do. Lonely Planet guides are good. I've heard that Moon Guides and Rough Guides are good also.

Anyways, at first we trekked off the beaten track before joining the main trails to the Annapurna Sanctuary. I would stronly recommend this. You really don't get a flavour of the culture when on the main trails. It's also a lot more relaxing without the many trekkers on the trails.

On the approach to Machapuchare Base Camp and Annapurna Base Camp, there was a real avalanche danger. The week before we arrived in Nepal, we heard that the trail to MBC and ABC were closed because of snow. While dining in our tent at MBC, we heard a loud rumble outside. When we went outside, we found our trail, a few hundred metres back, under tonnes of snow. That was quite sobbering.

We were quite lucky and made it to both MBC and ABC. The views were incredible from ABC. To be surrounded by numerous mountains, was awe inspiring. In addition to the mountain views, the valleys are very scenic. The people work their land, so that the towering Himalayan peaks are contrasted by the terraced slopes.

"A Photographer's Playground!" We also spent a few days in Chitwan Park on safari. We had hopes of seeing a tiger but we were expecting mostly rest and relaxation. No luck on spotting a tiger. Tigers are nocturnal and noone is allowed to be wandering at night. We stayed at one of the resorts in the park called Temple Tiger. It was comfortable. It was expensive. Their clientelle was mostly retired folk or well-to-do's. We're in our 20's so we felt a bit out of place. Our best company was Annabelle, the Guest Relations Officer who was also in her 20's. The best parts of the safari were riding on the elephants and getting charged by a rhino (easy to say now but I was pretty scared when the rhino charged our elephant). Otherwise, we got plenty of opportunity to veg out.

We also spent a few days in Kathmandu and the surrounding valley. On the way to KTM, we stopped in Daman to see the full Himalyan Range.

We had a panoramic view from Dhaulagiri to Kanchenjunga. Quite nice.

Even better was the car ride to KTM from Daman. Despite the twisting and winding roads (unfortunately, I get motion sickness), the views of the Himalayas and the lower valleys were quite impressive.

Kathmandu was a step back in time. Bhaktapur and Patan both had beautiful temples. In Thamel, the "tourist ghetto" of KTM, there were lots of foreigners and merchants catering to their tastes. We ate delicious steaks in the Third Eye restaurant. We shopped for souvenirs in the numerous shops. There's even better shopping between Thamel and Durbar Square. We stayed in the Kathmandu Guest House which was comfortable and also has a host of helpful services (eg. foreign exchange, safety deposit boxes, international fax, phone and mail and soon Email, haircuts, etc). Overall, we probably stayed or ate in the pricier establishments. However, the prices are excellent by Canadian standards.

Some final comments are about the people we met. The Nepalese people are truly wonderful. The mountains are spectacular but the people are even more memorable. They are kind, caring, hard-working, helpful ...

We arranged our tour from Canada with Canadian Himalayan Expeditions.

They were knowledgeable, helpful and a good value. Their contacts in Nepal are Overseas Adventure Travel. Also excellent. Excellent staff. Someone who made a really big difference in our trip was Chris Beale, our western guide. He was very professional, knowledgeable, entertaining, and very helpful. He runs slide shows out of the Kathmandu Guest House. They are also very informative and worth the 250 rupees (approx $5 US). If you see him, send him my regards.

Chris is a writer/photographer. He had many photo tips for us.

Well, I hope you find this helpful, if not verbose. Have a great time. If you can, I'd appreciate your comments on your trip on your return.

Cheers,

Gary Wong :)

>......



Subject(s): Annapurna Sanctuary in September

Keywords: Annapurnas, Weather

From: Thomas Flannigan <BBCW52A@prodigy.com>

Date: 96.04.30(Id.: 47)


We did the Annapurna Sanctuary trip in late September, early October. A

big mistake. WE copuldn't see anything. Wait 3 weeks or go in March.



Subject(s): Annapurna in one week

Keywords: Annapurnas

From: Per Löwdin <dokomb@us.uu.se>

Date: 96.05.03(Id.: 218)


>In article <4m4pvu$clp@rambo.hl.siemens.de>,

>Jan Truoel <truoel@rambo.hl.siemens.de> wrote:

>>I intend to travel to Nepal in October/November this year. I'm thinking about

>>a one week trek on the Annapurna trail and a visit to the National park. Is

>>anythink else worth visiting? Does someone have any suggestions or information

>> on the place I want to visit. Any information is wellcomed.

A week is a short time: I would go to Annapurna Base camp. It is four to five days from Pokhara and there is splendid sceenery. Djungles, bamboo-forests, high altitude meadows. Once You are in the basin north of Machapuchare it does not matter if it is overcaste because You are so close to the mountains that You will see them all the time. A nice detour is Poon Hill by Ghore Pani. There are splendid views to be had of Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. However, unfortunately it is rapidly becoming spoilt. There used to be dense forests but it has been used for building, cooking and worst of all to burn fires that tourists just sit around.

Per



Subject(s): Annapurna trek in september (weather)

Keywords: Annapurnas, Weather

From: Dirk Vandenheuvel <vandenh@innet.be>

Date: 96.05.03(Id.: 4)


manuel@ccs.neu.edu (Manuel Freitas) wrote:

>In article <4m5q5p$rcs@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com> BBCW52A@prodigy.com (Thomas Flannigan) writes:

>>We did the Annapurna Sanctuary trip in late September, early October. A

>>big mistake. WE copuldn't see anything. Wait 3 weeks or go in March.

Getting up at 5 am usually does the trick :)

>That doesn't really guaranty anything. I did it in early September

>and it was beautiful. Besides, in October/Novemeber, you'll have to

>share the trek with thousands of other trekers. It's almost like

>going on the jungle ride at Disneyland :-)

Yep... Trek in september if you can... people are friendlier, prices are better and it a LOT less crowded. The weather is not too bad. If you plan on doing the whole Annapurna start the second week of september. You will have a head start over the other tourists that start in October and you will have great weather the last couple of weeks...

CU and happy trekking

Dizzy


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