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| Stego's FAQ on Nepal travel v.3 - Annapurnas 2/3 |
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Keywords: Annapurnas
From: BTBurger <btburger@aol.com>
| Date: 96.06.23 | (Id.: 5) |
A greater question is whether you want to avoid the crowds. While I loved the circuit, I probably would have preferred to take my time on the first (eastern) half, which has few trekkers (just the ones doing the whole circuit) and several possible deviations. Then I'd fly back from Jomsom -- the trek from Jomsom to Pokhara is pretty crowded.
Bruce Burger
Keywords: Annapurnas, Equipment, Accomodation
From: Per Löwdin <Per.Lowdin@statsvet.uu.se>
| Date: 96.06.24 | (Id.: 224) |
>My wife and I are trekking Annapurna when thousands of others will do the
>same --- i.e. November. How difficult is it to find lodging in the
>villages during this time?
There are plenty of Nepali hotels all the way.
>Is there a time of day you would recommend we stop and find a place for the
>night?
Whenever You feel exhausted or find a nice place that You like to stay in or You reach the last inhabited place before night fall.
>Would camping be a more desirable option?
No: it would mean You would have to carry tent, stove, foam pads and all the rest, which will add 15kg to You packs. It is better to go light weight. You really don´t need to carry much on the Annapurna circuit. That is one of the nice things about it!
Nepal is a densely populated place. In my experience it is only nice to camp on high altitudes in lonely spots. If You camp near a village You will feel watched and You may have problems with dogs that easily chew their way into the tent while You are asleep to steal Your food. It happened to us outside Kyangin Gompa on the Langtang trail. Also, You more or less have to watch Your tent all the time.
Keywords: Annapurnas, Airplanes & Airports, Guides & porters
From: Per Löwdin <Per.Lowdin@statsvet.uu.se>
| Date: 96.07.01 | (Id.: 225) |
>First, let me thank the many people who responded to my previous post
>about an upcoming Annapurna trek. Your opinions have greatly influenced my
>thoughts about this trip.
>For sake of time, my wife and I have just changed our November plans to
>include only the western half of the circuit --- i.e. fly into Jomsom and
>trek back to the road leading to Pokhara. We are not inclined to hire
>porters prior to the trek, and want to wait and see if we feel the need
>after a day or two with a pack on our backs.
Good luck with the flight. Last time I flew it the plane did not even have a functioning radar. Still we got out safely to Kathmandu. The next day one of that company´s two planes flew in to a mountain. No survivors :-<
>Question: are there porters available in the villages we will be passing
>through?
Porters for what? Your tooth brush? Trekking from Jomosom to Birethanti You need to carry nothing more than a change of clothes (if You don´t want to stink) and a warm jacket. Also a clean sleeping bag may prove useful.
I hope You are aware that You are going to trekk in an area that has had 30 years of trekking. There are excellent hotels all the way. You can even enjoy things like Swiss rösti with fried eggs, pies, fresh bread, etc. Unless You are extremely weak and feable, in which case You perhaps should consider going to Mallorca or Florida instead, there is absolutely no need for porters or heavy equipment to do that trekk.
To answer Your question: Normally the thakallis of Jomosom and Thukshe do not like being human beasts of burdens. They think it is beneath their dignity.
So, generally speaking, only poor guys who have come from other parts of Nepal do portering in the area. They are generally not for sale in market stands so You have to shop around a bit. But surely You will find someone who is willing to carry Your stuff for a price.
>Are lodges a good source to find trustworthy porters?
Yes: if You talk to the inn-keepers they will let the word get out in the market that You are looking for porters and they may even be able to arrange porters for You at least for a day to Your next stop.
>And can anyone tell me the approximate distance (in miles or kilometers)
>between Jomsom and the road below Berenthanti?
I do not know the distance in km but in terms of days it is anything between two days and a week: i.e., nepalis do it in two days, for tourists it varies with how much time You want to spend.
Keywords: Annapurnas, Everest area, Equipment, Health
From: Petri Kaipiainen <petkai@nanda.pp.fi>
| Date: 96.07.26 | (Id.: 27) |
<pmg0861@serverp.ca.boeing.com> says:
>- What did you do about water purification? Filter & Iodine? Boiling?
>I'm aware of the capabilities of the methods, I'm mainly interested in
>hearing what worked out best/was most convenient for you.
Iodine (Lugol's solution) is a good way to sterilize drinking water. Taste is not a problem; you get used to it. Foul taste can also be removed by mixing half a tablet of vitamin -C to a liter of water. This works because vitamin-C is an acid and reacts with iodine.
This taste removal should be done in a different bottle than in which the sterilization is done, otherwise vitamin-C prevents iodine from working the next time water is cleaned (or the bottle must be cleaned thoroughly between batches).
Lugol's solution is very bad for anything it comes in touch with, be sure that the bottle containing iodine does not break. I used to be difficult to find a dropper in Katmandu, better bring one from home.
----
>- I'm thinking about using a lighter-weight hiking boot (lighter
>relative to my mountaineering boots) to do the bulk of the trekking in.
I have trekked Annapurna Circuit (+ Sanctuary & Dhaulagiri Icefall) twice and Everest base camp once (with plenty of sidetrips) with only jogging shoes.
Annapurna Circuit is not a problem, there is usually snow for only one day (or zero) when crossing the Throng La pass. There you can cover your socks with plastic bags if the snow bothers you. As you can see I prefer walking as light as possible. On Annapurna Circuit most walking is done below 10000 feet and temperatures are quite high. I do not see a reason for heavy shoes unless one's ankles are weak.
Everest area is a different matter. Sometimes you can get by with only jogging shoes, but often there is so much snow that also gaiters are a must. Thus for Everest base camp trek I recommend jogging shoes for the approach and medium heavy trekking shoes for high altitudes and possible snow. The same recipe goes for Annapurna Circuit, in you have porters to carry your heavy shoes to Manang.
You must have light shoes for the evenings in the camp anyway, thus this approach is a sensible one in any case. Make sure the jogging shoes do not have smooth soles, paths are sometimes slippery and good traction in all directions is a must.
Petri K.
PS: see http://www.eunet.fi/nepal/ for my Nepal pages and photos
Keywords: Annapurnas, Weather
From: John Neville <neville@import.dialix.oz.au>
| Date: 96.07.29 | (Id.: 39) |
GC> Does anyone know of a place or several places to trek in Nepal during
GC> the month of August. I understand that rainy season and I am looking
GC> for a place to trek that would be fairly dry.Thanks for any help.
Anywhere north of Marpha should do the trick although I'm not sure of current permit policy for Mustang. If your passing Tukuche climb up about 500m where the locals take there yaks for summer grazing and establish a camp there.
They drink the animals blood as a health supplement. : -)
Don't be put off by the rain for monsoon trekking........ no crowds!
I'm heading back in September for some wandering in the Kaski area.
If you really want a dry area to trek Ladakh in northern India is the place to go, if you like lunar type landscape though. :-)
Internet: neville@import.dialix.oz.au
Keywords: Annapurnas
From: John Sheehy <jms@echonyc.com>
| Date: 96.08.17 | (Id.: 164) |
> What are the main difference between these 2 trekking track?
> Which route has a better view?
Of course it depends on what you are looking for, but for most people I would reccomend the Sanctuary. Views on both trips are extraordinary, but the Sanctuary route has some advantages. It's much shorter, takes only about half as much time. The Circuit route spends many days at lower elevations where you have a great view, but the terrain doesn't change much from day to day. If the weather is bad it can be very discouraging.
The Sanctuary may be the most beautiful sight I've seen in my lifetime.
If possible, do try to reach the Annapurna base camp. I was surprised by how many people struggle through days of difficult climbing and then give up just before the end because they felt too tired or cold.
Keywords: Annapurnas, Weather
From: Arron C. Guenzi <acg@soilwater.agr.okstate.edu>
| Date: 96.08.28 | (Id.: 167) |
If you would like to avoid crowds, late Dec./early Jan. is a great time. It was a little commercial, however, I'll have to admit having a beer or Coke in evenings was a real treat! You might also have trouble crossing Thorung La pass at this time of the year if your goal is to complete the entire circuit.
Keywords: Annapurnas, Weather
From: Robert Zahniser <bobzahniser@worldnet.att.net>
| Date: 96.08.29 | (Id.: 168) |
Keywords: Annapurnas
From: TangoLima <eng40073@leonis.nus.sg>
| Date: 96.10.08 | (Id.: 174) |
: In article <jl1115-0110961903450001@ts900-5809.singnet.com.sg>,
: jl1115@singnet.com.sg (JOYCE LEE) wrote:
: > I am thinking of travelling to Nepal in december. I am looking for great
: > scenery, cultural experiences and stays at villages...Anyone who can help
: > me with any info/recommendations (accomodations etc) is welcome. I have
: > about 2 weeks to spend there . Although i will like to do some trekking,
: > i am looking for some easy treks, not too strenuous, since this is my
: > first visit.
: There is a nice teahouse trekk from Pokhara to Jomosom. Friendly villages,
: nice sceenery, etc.
Agreed...Pokhara to Jomsom is nice...but 2 weeks is only enough for the trek itself, which means you hardly get a breather in Pokhara or Kathmandu.
For an average Asian, the trek (1-way) can be completed in 10 days...faster if you have high endurance. Add another day for you to fly back to Pokhara, then onwards to Kathmandu. I think 2 weeks is rather tight (for an average Singaporean's frame and fitness). Besides, you have to fit in the plane schedules, both domestic and international.
Another trek might be more suitable.
:)
*just my 2 nepali rupees worth*
Keywords: Annapurnas
From: Scott Yost <syost@hephp01.phys.utk.edu>
| Date: 96.10.11 | (Id.: 214) |
<aviyam@dialup.netvision.net.il> wrote:
>> > Agreed...Pokhara to Jomsom is nice...
>> > For an average Asian, the trek (1-way) can be completed in 10
>> > days...faster if you have high endurance.
>> Yes: the walking from Jomomsom to the roadhead near Pokhara requires only
>> four days if You don't carry a lot of uneccessary stuff.
>The Anporna Base camp trek is 5 days easy trek...
You may want to be careful who you take advice from, since both extremes can be found here. Most people would find 10 days to Jomsom very relaxing.
On the other hand, I did the Annapurna Base Camp trek in 10 days, including a side trip to Ghorepani that probably added about 2 days. That was at a pretty fast pace (often half the suggested walking times). So unless you plan on running or walking very long hours, you will probably not enjoy doing it in 5 days, especially since there is a lot more elevation gain than on the Jomsom trek. (If you don't live in the mountains or hike frequently at high elevation, you definitely will not find it easy. The route is very steep in places, and can be muddy as well.) Personally, I think I would alot 7 days for the Jomsom trek, including a trip to Mukhtinath. I would have done that if I decided I didn't have enough time for Annapurna Base Camp.
Keywords: Annapurnas, Everest area, Places & itineraries
From: Petri Kaipiainen <petkai@nanda.pp.fi>
| Date: 96.10.15 | (Id.: 194) |
>Circuit and another Nepali trek, especially if they think the other trek was
>better.
I have done the Annapurna Circuit/Dhaulagiri icafall/Annapurna Sanctuary trek twice, first with my wife in -84 and as a guide for a group of 12 in -86. My other experience is from a 42 day trek in Khumbu in -85.
Both Annapurna Circuit and Khumbu are wonderfull treks. In Khumbu one gets more inside great mountains (Sanctuary is a good substitute, though). Annapurna Circuit is, in my opinion, a better overall experience, because Annapurna trek is geographically and culturally more varied. Both areas are quite touristed, but by picking paths not normally taken one can get away from the tourists (other trekkers) at least for a few days.
Keywords: Annapurnas, Places & itineraries, Equipment
From: Petri Kaipiainen <petkai@nanda.pp.fi>
| Date: 96.10.15 | (Id.: 195) |
>>Circuit is, in my opinion, a better overall experience, because Annapurna trek
>>is geographically and culturally more varied.
>>Petri K.
>OK, unfortunately I don't have time to do both the Annapurna Sanctuary and the
>Annapurna circuit. Would you recommend trying to do both the Sanctuary and
>the Jomsom trek, or should I do the Annapurna Circuit and skip the Sanctuary?
>Is Thorung La pass something I don't want to miss?
I would recommend the Circuit, it is a total experience in itself. Thorong La, I have never really seen it: First time we climbed it in the dark (started too early, around 4 AM, and had to wait for the sunup on the top, we were in good shape). Next time we crossed it in a snowstorm. It is a good experience anyway, you'll find out how well you adapt to thin air.
>Also, what kind of gear do I need for the pass in early november? I am
>thinking a gortex shell/down liner combination, gloves, hat, thermal
>underwear and boots will be enough... does this seem on the mark? (Oh, and
>sunglasses, of course).
This is a difficult one, it depends so much on how much snow experience you have. I have managed on a combination of long underwear, treking pants, fleece jacket and Gore-Tex shell (jacket and pants). Plus gloves & hat, for me Adidas jogging shoes and wool socks have been enough (only one pair of shoes for the whole thing), but it would be a bit risky to recommend it. This has been enough for me when moving.
For rest stops a down jacket is a good suplement, also at lower altitudes. But then I have skied and camped in Finnish Lapland in temperatures down to -40 F with actually less clothing. Thus a down liner is maybe an overkill. Most or the trek will be done in shorts anyway.
>Also, (full of questions I know) can I do the annapurna sanctuary section
>without a tent? I will be carrying a nice sleeping bag. Oh, and would you
>reccommend a down bag or synthetic? I own a synthetic bag now but will
>be replacing it because it is decrepit.
The whole thing can be done without a tent, also Sanctuary, but having a tent gives some flexibility in picking the places to stay overnight. What comes to sleeping bags I am partial to down bags, as they pack smaller and are lighter than synthetics. This is important if you plan to carry everything yourself. It is not necessary to have an extra heavy bag, only a few nights will be spent in below freezing temperatures. For those nights you can wear more clothes, maybe even a down jacket to keep warm. On my second trip i actually had only a bottom half of a cheap sleeping bag and used my down jacket (a 40 $ secondhand affair from Kathmandu) as a blanket for the top part. I survived, but do not recommend it to amateurs (I have slept in Finnish winter in my Karrimor Alpiniste backpack, eh spent the night).
Have a nice trip.
Keywords: Annapurnas
From: Petri Kaipiainen <petkai@nanda.pp.fi>
| Date: 96.10.16 | (Id.: 196) |
About going Annapurna Circuit Clocwise:
>The guidebooks say that this is extremely strenuous and dangerous due to the
>lack of convenient accomodations if you do it this way... is this true? I
>have done hiking in the Rockies and am in OK shape I guess but am not some
>endurance champion... I don't want to get in over my head and create a bad
>situation for myself.
It is a lot longer and steeper climb from the west (Muktinath) side. From the Manang side the start for the final push is about 2000' higher. This makes a big difference. It is possible to do it from the west, but there is not much space for altitude sicknes. From the east it can be done with a slight case of AMS (I guided two guys, aged 63 and 70 with a medium-bad case of AMS across in a snowstorm, it took 14 hours). It not as much about endurance and fitness here, more about your ability to acclimatize. That you will not find out before you actually go high.
Look at the picture of the western side of the Thorong La pass at http://www.eunet.fi/nepal/ in Annapurna section of photogaraphs.
>Also, from a personal standpoint I would like to get by without a porter, if
>possible... I like to be as self-reliant as possible, and worry that a bad
>porter experience would be far worse than no porter at all... are porters
>necessary? How many of you used porters?
If you pack light (12-15 kg max) going without a porter is best. Having a small group (2-4 persons), a guide and porters (1 porter for 2 "Memebers") is the second best way of doing it. Some guides are really a joy to have as company.
To avoid crowds take the eastern side of the river from Phalesangu going up and the upper path along the rim of the Manang valley from Pisang. There are prectically no views from the valley floor, from the upper villages the whole Annapurna massif opens before you.
Keywords: Annapurnas, Accomodation, Miscelaneous
From: Scott Yost <syost@hephp01.phys.utk.edu>
| Date: 96.10.16 | (Id.: 215) |
>OK, unfortunately I don't have time to do both the Annapurna Sanctuary and the
>Annapurna circuit. Would you recommend trying to do both the Sanctuary and
>the Jomsom trek, or should I do the Annapurna Circuit and skip the Sanctuary?
>Is Thorung La pass something I don't want to miss?
> I did the Annapurna Sanctuary and Everest treks, but intend to do the full circuit someday. Thorung La is certainly a major attraction that I want to see someday, and the full circuit goes through quite a variety of regions.
The big attraction of the Sanctuary is the close-up mountain views, but I would rate them second to Everest region, so I guess under these circumstances, I would do the circuit this time, and visit the Everest region when I go back (and I bet you will).
>Also, what kind of gear do I need for the pass in early november? I am
>thinking a gortex shell/down liner combination, gloves, hat, thermal
>underwear and boots will be enough... does this seem on the mark? (Oh, and
>sunglasses, of course).
> Having been at comparable elevation in the Everest region at that time, I would think so. You can find my packing list on my website at http://www.vic.com/nepal/. I would pack the same way if doing the circuit.
If you have a guide or porter, he will get by with far less, but I wouldn't recommend that if you want to be comfortable. By the way, some people just hire a porter for the pass. I have heard of both positive and negative porter experiences, and myself had a guide but no porter. I really liked my guide (we still exchange letters), though you certainly don't need one. You can decide when the time comes, but I think it is worth trying, for better or worse, just for the experience. Besides, it's nice to help out the locals by contributing to the economy.
>Also, (full of questions I know) can I do the annapurna sanctuary section
>without a tent? I will be carrying a nice sleeping bag. Oh, and would you
>reccommend a down bag or synthetic? I own a synthetic bag now but will
>be replacing it because it is decrepit.
A down bag would be lighter and far more compact for the same temperature rating. I would never use anything else. Especially on this trek, where keeping it dry should be no problem.
Also, to answer an earlier question, I wouldn't worry too much about crowding.
I was on the section of the circuit between Birethanti and Ghorepani in mid- November, and there were times I had a lodge to myself. There are plenty of lodges, especially if you don't follow guidebooks like Lonely Planet too literally. There may be more people in October, but it generally isn't excessive.
A popular US national park would get more visitors in a weekend than Nepal gets all year. There are just a few places, higher up, where lots of people converge on a small number of lodges, that this gets to be a concern. (Annapurna Base Camp, towns near Everest Base Camp). I don't know if you will run into such places on the circuit.
--
Keywords: Annapurnas
From: Richard S McCulloch <richardmc@dial.pipex.com>
| Date: 96.10.16 | (Id.: 176) |
>Circuit and another Nepali trek, especially if they think the other trek was
>better.
Ken, I did the Annapurna circuit in 1989 and would rate it as the best of all the treks I have done in Nepal. Although we travelled camping, even then there was no shortage of lodge accommodation (except at Thorung Pedi where the pass had been closed for the previous days because of snow)(but see someone elses remarks about Bagarchap). The circuit provides the best variety of scenery from the rice paddies at the start, the rather commercial villages of the Marsyandi, the the first views of glistening summits through the fir trees higher up, the arid conditions behind the range, the Thorung La and its views of Dhaulagiri (I took what probably is my best trekking picture on the climb to the pass),the Kali Gandaki and the view up to Mustang, the arcadian rural scenes after we left the Kaki Gandaki. In Nepal I have been to Everest base camp, trekked Rolwalling to Namche, to Kanchenjunga and climbed Mera Peak. Although these were all special none had the variety of the Annapurna circuit. I leave in 2 weeks to do the Annapurna Sanctuary trek with a friend, I just hope it is not too crowded.
Richard.
---
Richard McCulloch - richardmc@dial.pipex.com
---
* 1st 2.00 #6501 * Some days you're the bug, other days the windshield.
Keywords: Annapurnas, Everest area, Miscelaneous, Places & itineraries, Guides & porters
From: Roy Richards <sniffer@emirates.net.ae>
| Date: 96.10.16 | (Id.: 179) |
The circuit is popular for many reasons. You don't need to incur the expense of a full blown camping trek, it is reasonably easy and comfortable, the scenery is varied and mind blowing. You see a contrast of cultures between the two sides of the pass, it is easy to arrange and the time required fits most peolple's holiday span. I have met people doing the circuit clockwise, including a guy with one leg. You would have a long slog up a glacial moraine which is too much of an altitude gain to be done in one go. Things may have changed but the only accommodation available on the moraine was pretty poor and liable to be overcrowded. I think it would be harder as things are not really geared up for it, but people do do it.
The downside is of course, its popularity. Most people look at the statistics and imagine that they will be tripping over people all the way.
That was never the case for us and hopefully never will be. Even tho' there may be a large number of people travelling each leg, they soon spread out.
No, its not the crowding, but the effects of all these people on the environment that is the problem. Sweet wrappers, loo paper, tree cutting and path erosion, all detract from the natural beauty of the place.
I would find it hard to tell someone not to go there, it is an incredible place, but you should be aware that there are many other parts of Nepal, that while not famous are equally rewarding to visit.
We travelled around the solu Khumbu area last year for thirty days and only spent three or four days on the well trodden Everest trek. With a good guide and a sense of adventure there is so much scope in that area alone.
Unfortunately, if you go to the more remote areas you have to be self sufficient which eventually means porters and camping gear.
I can wholly recommend a trip to Khanchenjunga, varied scenery, great mountain views, less crowded, interesting people. Just to the left of the Annapurna circuit is the Dhorpatan - Tansen circuit. Get to know Dhaulagiri and maybe see some wildlife in the game reserve. Further west and there is Dolpo which for me is wonderful, peolple, places, excitement of the difficult terrain. For this you need to be self sufficient and have plenty of time, but it's well worth it. Further west still the Jumla, Ra Ra lake area can be interesting for a feeling of getting closer to Nepali culture without the barrier of tourist amenities.
I travelled down the Arun valley some years back and in fact will be there again this year. Great memories of rich agriculture, oranges, peanuts, bananas, mountain views and the daily increase in temperature as you leave the high mountains behind. You can do a trip to Makalu from the Arun.
Everest and Gokyo treks are magic places but suffer from their polpularity like the circuit.
I can understand people going on the standard treks, we did it ourselves, but don't think for one minute that they are the best that Nepal has to offer.
As far as using porters is concerned, many people travel the circuit without, and it really is a matter of what sort of person you are. If you don't mind the hardship of carrying your own gear and making do with the bare minimum, then there is no need for a porter. The circuit is so well endowed with comfortable lodges that you really don't need much gear. On the other hand, a porter/guide can add to the fun of getting to know someone from a different culture. Maybe you both can learn something. Also by hiring help you will be making a big difference to someones life with the money you pay him. We have always travelled with Nepali's even when it wasn't strictly necessary, and I can honestly say that almost every one of them has been great company.
I haven't come across many people who have had problems with their porters.
Those that do have problems are invariably those who pick their porters up at the roadhead. Try using an intermediary when hiring help. Ask the you hotel manager in Khatmandu or the people in the restaurant you frequent.
Agencies are probably safer but very little of your money will find its way to the guys that carry your gear and do all the hard work.
Keywords: Annapurnas, Equipment
From: Per Löwdin <dokomb@us.uu.se>
| Date: 96.10.22 | (Id.: 198) |
> OK, unfortunately I don't have time to do both the Annapurna Sanctuary and the
> Annapurna circuit. Would you recommend trying to do both the Sanctuary and
> the Jomsom trek, or should I do the Annapurna Circuit and skip the Sanctuary?
> Is Thorung La pass something I don't want to miss?
If You are going to the sanctuary it would be a nice extension of the trekk to go to Jomosom and Muktinath. On the other hand if You go around Annapurna from Dumre, anti-clockwise, You will be so fit by the time You reach Ghorepani that You can reach the Annapurna south base camp in only three days if You don´t burden your self with a lot of unnecessary gear.
> Also, what kind of gear do I need for the pass in early november? I am
> thinking a gortex shell/down liner combination, gloves, hat, thermal
> underwear and boots will be enough... does this seem on the mark? (Oh, and
> sunglasses, of course).
> Also, (full of questions I know) can I do the annapurna sanctuary section
> without a tent?
Absolutely. It would be silly to carry a tent if You are trekking alone.
The less You carry the better.
>I will be carrying a nice sleeping bag. Oh, and would you
> reccommend a down bag or synthetic? I own a synthetic bag now but will
> be replacing it because it is decrepit.
You should have a good warm one.
Per
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© J. Mário Pires, 4 Mar 97
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