Stego's FAQ on Nepal travel v.3 - Annapurnas 3/3

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Subject(s):

Keywords: Annapurnas, Guides & porters

From: Brian Schack <schack@skyler.arc.ab.ca>

Date: 96.10.28(Id.: 182)


>>>>> "David" == David Secher <dss15@cam.ac.uk> writes:

David> I am going to Nepal next month (15 November) for the first

David> time. I plan to do the Annapurna circuit. Can anyone

David> advise me:

David> 1. can this easily be done in three weeks (Kathmandu to

David> Kathmandu)?

I think that would be cutting things pretty tight. If I recall correctly, I spent at least 3 weeks on the circuit itself. Add a day or two each for getting to/from Kathmandu, and then some more time for bad weather, and you're getting into the area of 4 weeks. And it's such a nice walk that it's nice to have the extra time to relax or explore.

David> 2. Can one start the trek at Dumre going directly from

David> Kathmandu (i.e. going to Pokhara at the end of the trek not

David> at the beginning)?

Yup, that's what I did.

David> 3. Where is the best place to hire a guide/porter for this

David> trek and any tips on how best to do this?

I can't help you there, as I did it as an independent traveller. In retrospect (and had I had the money), I would have thought seriously about hiring a guide. I think a guide would have made the experience much richer. I would have learned more about the people, language, and history of the area, rather than just looking at the scenery and enjoying the food. On the other hand, the scenery and food are both outstanding, and those things by themselves make th trip more than worthwhile.

Brian



Subject(s):

Keywords: Annapurnas, Guides & porters

From: Manny Freitas <mfreitas@bbnplanet.com>

Date: 96.10.28(Id.: 210)


David Secher (dss15@cam.ac.uk) wrote:

: I am going to Nepal next month (15 November) for the first time. I

: plan to do the Annapurna circuit. Can anyone advise me:

: 1. can this easily be done in three weeks (Kathmandu to Kathmandu)?

Yes, although you'd miss a lot of it. By this I mean, you'd be too worried and hurried so you'd miss out on some relaxed fun.

I went from Pokhara to Jomson, via Dumre, in 10 days than flew back to Pokhara. Had I continued on I would have finished the circuit in 15 days. So I guess I can say that 3 weeks will do it.

: 2. Can one start the trek at Dumre going directly from Kathmandu

: (i.e. going to Pokhara at the end of the trek not at the beginning)?

Yes. The Ktm-Pok buses stop at Dumre. And depending on the weather you can also catch a bus from Dumre to Besisahar.

: 3. Where is the best place to hire a guide/porter for this trek and

: any tips on how best to do this?

i If you really think you need a porter, you should first ask the people at the guest house where you stay in Kathmandu. Then shop around Thamel, there are inumerous trek organizations there. Common rule: if you ask in a trekking agency if you need a porter to do the Annapurna Circuit and they say yes, warning, they're not being honest with you. If they try to explain when you need a porter and when you don't need one, than you should be OK.

Have fun.

Manuel.



Subject(s):

Keywords: Annapurnas

From: Dan Adler <zico@tx.technion.ac.il>

Date: 96.10.30(Id.: 185)


>...

1) It can be "done" in 3 weeks but you will not enjoy it.It is essential to absorbe these magnificent mountains and their cultural atmosphere.

2) You can take a minibus to Dumre from Kathmandu,and get off there.

3) If you go directly to Dumre from Kathmandu you HAVE to hire the porter in Kathmandu.A guide is NOT required it's waste of money.A good and reliable place to hire a porter is at Green Hills just at the entrance to the Kathmandu Guest House in Thamel.

Dan Adler



Subject(s): Annapurna Circuit in 3 weeks - enough time?

Keywords: Annapurnas

From: Scott Yost <syost@hephp01.phys.utk.edu>

Date: 96.10.30(Id.: 216)


>...

>> 1. can this easily be done in three weeks (Kathmandu to Kathmandu)?

I haven't done it myself, but talked to many people who have, and on that basis, I would think it can be done in 3 weeks, but will be a little rushed.

Flying to and from Kathmandu will save you some time, if you have the budget.

>> 3. Where is the best place to hire a guide/porter for this trek and

>> any tips on how best to do this?

Either Pokhara or Kathmandu. If you hire one in Kathmandu, you would have to pay transportation costs. The safest way is to go to a trekking agency either place. But you can also hire an independent guide. Personally, I feel that a guide is not necessary, but adds a lot of richness to the experience if you get a good one (mine was good, and hiring him was the best thing I did, I think, although I wasn't really planning to in advance). It is a good idea to be self sufficient so you can get by without a guide if necessary, or if you don't find a good one.

Scott



Subject(s):

Keywords: Annapurnas

From: Per Löwdin <dokomb@us.uu.se>

Date: 96.10.31(Id.: 203)


> >...

> > 1. can this easily be done in three weeks (Kathmandu to Kathmandu)?

Yes: Technically the trekk can be done in two weeks. Three weeks will allow You several days of rest and exploration of various sites, villages, side valleys, etc.

> > 2. Can one start the trek at Dumre going directly from Kathmandu

> > (i.e. going to Pokhara at the end of the trek not at the beginning)?

Yes: the best minibus is called the Swiss minibus.

> > 3. Where is the best place to hire a guide/porter for this trek and

> > any tips on how best to do this?

You really do not need any guide or porter to do this trekk. There are hotels all along the way. These have grown up only to cater to tourists.

There is acceptable food and lodging all the way. There are no route-finding-problems. Tips: go light weight. Bring a warm jacket, a sweater, mittens, a cap, and a decent sleeping bag. You also need shoes that can take a few hours of snow for the Thorung La.

Per



Subject(s): Dhaulagiri ice-fall

Keywords: Annapurnas

From: Petri Kaipiainen <petkai@nanda.pp.fi>

Date: 96.11.03(Id.: 117)


A trip to the Dhaulagiri icafall is an interesting one. The path to the icefall starts south of Larjung, one place is just at the bridge that crosses Kali Gandaki a few kilometers downriver from Larjung in a narrow point of the river. Just start climbing up from the bridge. There are some fields in the forrest, but keep going up while turning a litle to the west (left).

It takes some 4 hours (if acclimatised)to reach upper kharkas (summer pastures) and on hour more to the foot of the icefall. If it is cloudy finding the way is a bit difficult.

It is possible to camp at the foot of the icefall and the wiews are tremedous accross the deepest valley in the world towards Annapurna and Nilgiri.

A WORD OF WARNING: There are constant ice avalanches shooting down the moraines. It is easy to see which area is most affected and dangerous, but no place is totally safe near the moranes. Huge lumps of ice speed down 100 miles an hour, so keep your eyes glued to the glacier and be ready to run at all times. If you camp near the icefall, make camp far enough or use a huge bolder as a shied.

As the icefall is about 4000 m above sea level going up while coming from the south you might (that is: will) get problems with altitude sickness.

It is easier to visit the icefall after crossing Thorong La, one reason to do the circuit counter clockwise.

Petri K.



Subject(s):

Keywords: Annapurnas, Transportation

From: John D. Child <fihp@mos.com.np>

Date: 96.11.05(Id.: 124)


Charles Yuen wrote:

> I'm planning to do the annapurna circuit in a clockwise direction in

> November and wanted to know how most people get from Kathmandu to

> Pokara. I know there are flight to Pokara for about $60US and bus

> service for a fraction of that.

Hi Charles

Our company routinely does the Annapurna Circuit clockwise, though the guidebooks generally describe trip in the other direction. We think the Thorong La is a bit easier clockwise, and it's a lot safer to be able to back out to Jomsom if there's any problem.

Both bus and plane reservations for Pokhara can be done one day before, though for a flight it's safer to reserve ahead. Many flights sell out weeks in advance during the high season, but there are so many Pokhara flights each day that it's usually possible to get on one of them. Still to be sure, reserve. And for flights to other popular destinations like Lukla, Tumlingtar, or Meghauly, reservations well ahead are a must.

The bus ride is universally uncomfortable, though the busses called "tourist coaches" are bearable. With all busses, you have to keep careful track of your backpack to ensure it arrives with you. Since gear is packed on top of the bus, you may need to get out of the bus at each stop to watch your gear (a nuisance), or ride on top with the bags (not very safe).

Depending on how many people are in your party, you might find that hiring a car or minivan is cost-effective.

Going up to Larjung to see the ice fall is nice, and won't take long from your main route around Annapurna. I think you should plan on it, and feel free to change your mind later.

And rafting: 3 or 4 days will get you a great, fun trip. Go for it.

Himalayan Regards

John Child

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Subject(s): Suggestion on a 8/9 days trek in Easter

Keywords: Annapurnas

From: Robert Murphy <rjmurphy@worldnet.att.net>

Date: 96.11.20(Id.: 126)


John Shelton wrote:

> I am planning a trip to Nepal next Easter and will be there for two

> weeks from Easter Sunday(UK). I want to do a 8/9 day trek and have

> quite a bit of walking experience. can anyone who has been there

> suggest a good route/routes for a newbie to Nepal. I shall of course be

> flying to Kathmandu where I am meeting a friend coming in from

> Calcutta.

> thanks

> John

An easy 8-9 day trek in Nepal is the Western side of the Annapurna circuit. This is done by getting to Pokhara either by air or bus, flying to Jomsom, and then trekking down through Ghorepani. Jomsom is at 9500 feet and a you can have a leisurely 6-7 days to get back to Pokhara at about 4000 feet. Lots of teahouses and accommodations, and the walk through the rhododendron forests is spectacular in the spring.

Stretch it out by spending a some extra time in Tatopani --- hot springs there --- or going from Ghandruk to Landruk rather than the more common Berenthanti route.

Lots and lots of material is available on the Pokhara - Jomsom trek.

You will find a lot of variety and scenic beauty in a very short period of time. Good luck!!



Subject(s): Pokhara to Jomsom

Keywords: Annapurnas, Transportation, Health

From: Manny Freitas <mfreitas@bbnplanet.com>

Date: 97.01.16(Id.: 134)


Chong See Ming (seeming@extol.com.my) wrote:

: Hello everyone,

: Thanks to everyone who answered my post some time ago.

: My friend and I would really appreciate further help ..Please -

: In planning for my trekking in the Annapurna region,

: 5 QUESTIONS:-

: Question 1

: Is it advisable to fly straight from Pokhara to Jomsom and start

: trekking from there?

Sure, Jomson is not that high up. It's still OK.

But, when you say "trekking from there" do you mean do the Annapurna circuit clockwise, or just turn back to Pokhara???

: Question 2

: Can porters be hired from Jomsom? We are not sure whether we need any

: yet. Or if we hire them from Pokhara- we will have to incur expenses

: trsanporting them, right? How about guides?

Don't know, I didn't hire a porter either.

: Our first constraint is time ie we do not have the 21 days for

: completing the circuit.Even though we can do the shorter Gorepani-Poon

: Hill-Gandrung-Landruk trek- but we wish to also see Kag beni near to the

: Tibetan Border and perhaps Mukhtinath.

Here's what I did: treked along the Annapurna circuit clockwise, through Besisahar and reached Jomson in only 10 days. Then you can easily fly back from Jomson to Pokhara if you want. If not, it takes another 5 days to trek down to Pokhara.

: Question 3: Is the Mukhtinath/Kagbeni/Marpha area difficult?

: We are reasonably fit and can walk up to 6 hours a day without seriously

: tiring. But we have not done any mountain climbing or anything at a high

: altitude.

No, it's really easy and low grade trekking. It only takes about 3 or 4 houras to hike from Mukhtinath to Jomson.

: Question 4

: But I am really worried about altitude sickness in Jomsom- because I

: come from flat country really.Read somewhere that altitude sickness is a

: problem if someone flys Pokhara-Jomsom.. If I can build in a rest day at

: Jomsom upon arrival- will it help?

: Anyone experienced AMS symptoms upon arrival in Jomsom from Pokhara via

: flight?

Like I said, I did it the other way around so I wouldn't be able to really answer that question. I did meet people coming in the other direction, who had taken the flight from Pokhara to Jomson and decided to trek up to Mukhtinath on the same day. They felt a bit tired but with no major problems. If you can spend an extra day in Jomson upon arrival then you should be OK.

: Question 5

: pardon this very ignorant mind- what is a pass crossing? What kind of

: walking on what kind of trail does a pass crossing entail?

: Plase help....Thank you so much in advance.

A pass is the section of the trail that goes over a "ridge" that links two higher mountains, one on each side. Usually, it's a way to pass from one side of a mountain range to the other side, through the lowest point in between two mountains.

Manuel.



Subject(s): Pokhara to Jomsom

Keywords: Annapurnas, Transportation

From: Gilad Shinman <ashani@actcom.co.il>

Date: 97.01.17(Id.: 136)


On Thu, 16 Jan 1997 19:20:42 GMT, Chong See Ming

<seeming@extol.com.my> wrote:

>Hello everyone,

>Thanks to everyone who answered my post some time ago.

>My friend and I would really appreciate further help ..Please -

>In planning for my trekking in the Annapurna region,

>5 QUESTIONS:-

>Question 1

>Is it advisable to fly straight from Pokhara to Jomsom and start

>trekking from there?

>Question 2

>Can porters be hired from Jomsom? We are not sure whether we need any

>yet. Or if we hire them from Pokhara- we will have to incur expenses

>trsanporting them, right? How about guides?

>Our first constraint is time ie we do not have the 21 days for

>completing the circuit.Even though we can do the shorter Gorepani-Poon

>Hill-Gandrung-Landruk trek- but we wish to also see Kag beni near to the

>Tibetan Border and perhaps Mukhtinath.

>Question 3: Is the Mukhtinath/Kagbeni/Marpha area difficult?

>We are reasonably fit and can walk up to 6 hours a day without seriously

>tiring. But we have not done any mountain climbing or anything at a high

>altitude.

>Question 4

>But I am really worried about altitude sickness in Jomsom- because I

>come from flat country really.Read somewhere that altitude sickness is a

>problem if someone flys Pokhara-Jomsom.. If I can build in a rest day at

>Jomsom upon arrival- will it help?

>Anyone experienced AMS symptoms upon arrival in Jomsom from Pokhara via

>flight?

>Question 5

>pardon this very ignorant mind- what is a pass crossing? What kind of

>walking on what kind of trail does a pass crossing entail?

>Plase help....Thank you so much in advance.

>See Ming

Hi, My friend and I did the Annapurna Circuit 2 years ago. I'll try to answer each question.

1) Flying to Jomsom is Fine but what direction do you want to go? If your planning to go over the pass (the highest point on the circuit

-5400m) do not start from Jomsom, instead come from the other direction, it's much easier. If you want just to do Jomsom, Poon hill......Pokhara then the best idea is to fly, otherwise you'll be backtracking.

2) If you fly you have no choice but to hire porters in Jomsom, otherwise try getting them in Pokhara. We did the trek without porters but we were in good condition (were is the word).

Since your not doing the whole circuit I'd recommend flying to Jomsom going up towards Muktina then back down to Jomsom and Poon hill,Gorapani,etc..back to Pokhara.

3-4) If you rest in Jomsom a day or two (walking around the area, which is beautiful) you should have no problem with the walk - I had trobole with altitude sickness go over the pass. The trick is to get used to it gradually (by relaxing in Jomsom for instance- It's a great place to do so because it is comfortable, good food and accomodation).

5) Like I wrote before the phunket pass crossing is simply the highest point of the circuit but if your not doing the whole circuit you probably won't get to it.

Hope this help, if you need more details or have any more questions please feel free to write

Gilad Shinman

actcom.co.il



Subject(s): Pokhara to Jomsom

Keywords: Annapurnas

From: Tom Moffatt <tmoffatt@nbnet.nb.ca>

Date: 97.01.18(Id.: 135)


Personally I like the idea of walking both ways to and from Jomosom and beyond. On the way back I would go by way of Gandrung. To me the Kali Gandaki valley is a most fascinating place, especially if one takes the time to really 'look'. Part of that is the subtle fact it looks very different going up and down.

One time going from Jomosom to Muktinath I took a trail which was above the valley floor on the east (right side going up) flank of the valley - Having some elevation there, and watching the landscape change from that vantage point gave a different perception than travelling along the valley floor.

Take time if possible for some little hikes up side valleys - behind Larjung, or across the way from Larjung and up to a vantage point.

Many people are disillusioned with this trek - but to me it is usually because they see nothing but the main route

- Tom Moffatt

P.S. I have walked in this area seven times



Subject(s): Pokhara...Ghorepani...Ghandruk

Keywords: Annapurnas, Robbery & security, Weather, Guides & porters

From: Michael Meadows <m.meadows@hum.gu.edu.au>

Date: 97.01.20(Id.: 137)


Just a few snippets from a mid-December trek in the region (our first).

While we were there, we heard that police found the body of an American solo trekker missing since October 15. He'd been robbed and murdered just past Ghorepani on the Tatopani track. Another recent incident saw a lone Russian trekker attacked and robbed near Banthanti. He made it although left for dead. One of our porters found (and brandished with apparent glee) a bloodstained bandanna reputedly belonging to the Russian guy. Considering that around 5000 or more people use the Annapurna area each year, the odds are small but it's worth considering.

We decided to hire porters in Pokhara and it was the best move we made on our trek. We paid around Rp500 a day for them (which is top of the range proces, I know) but we could afford it and it put something back into the local economy. The three guys who joined our independent group of six were just fantastic. We became great friends and learned a lot about Nepalese life we would most certainly have missed without our wonderful companions.

I'd highly recommend these three guys. You can contact them through Pokhara Adventure Tours and Travel (Ph: 00977-61-21731/Fax:

00977-61-21565)...ask for Nabin Sharma. The names of these gems are Gopal Pun (who at 20 is experienced and great fun), Dhan Raj Gurung (Infectious smile and great English), and Mohan Thapa. The last two work at the new Hotel Marigold, near the main road junction, Lakeside, Pokhara. We stayed there (US$20) and had a great time.

For first time trekkers, we found the 'easy' Pokhara-Ghorepani-Ghandruk loop fairly tough going. I got a touch of altitude sickness at Ghorepani, probably brought on by trekking with a chest infection, but the tracks are steep in many places and sustained. I guess you have to get up there somehow! Coming from a country where 7000 feet is our highest 'hill' it's an experience.

Mid-December was great...away from the often heavily polluted air of Kathmandu (impossible to see the Himalayas on most days because of the smog), the country around Pokhara was uncrowded with crystal clear views of Dhaulagiri and Annapurna (near Ghorepani) and the others up until the clouds came rolling in at about midday each day.

Around zero or a little below at night but the days, under cloudless skies, were wonderful for walking with just a light sweater or even a T-shirt for the uphill sections.

By the way, the cost of a permit for the Annapurna Conservation Area went up from Rp650 to Rp1000 in December 1996. All the guidebooks will be out of date.

Great people, great scenery and great memories. Look forward to trying it without the Kathmandu cough next time!

Michael Meadows



Subject(s): Pokhara to Jomsom

Keywords: Annapurnas, Health

From: Frank F Kroger <fkroger@coho.halcyon.com>

Date: 97.01.25(Id.: 139)


dokomb@us.uu.se (Per Lowdin) writes:

>In article <32DE7F8A.52F4@extol.com.my>, seeming@extol.com.my wrote:

>> we wish to also see Kag beni near to the Tibetan Border and perhaps Mukhtinath.

Kagbeni is not near the Tibetan border. It is the last checkpost before entering Mustang. (need expensive extensive permits to enter Mustang).

>> Question 3: Is the Mukhtinath/Kagbeni/Marpha area difficult?

>It is not at all difficult. These three villages are situated at the same

>altitude in a broad flat valley. You can easily go by bicycle between

>them.

Excuse me? Muktinath 3802 Meters Kagbeni 3222 Meters Jomsom 2712 Meters Marpha 2617 Meters.

The path between Jomsom and Marpha is fairly flat and would lend itself to bicycle riding. When I was there 20 months ago I did not see any bicycles.

(there may be bikes there now).

The path between Kagbeni and Muktinath involves a 600 meter climb, though the surface of the path would be suitable for a bicycle, maybe zoom down from Muktinath?

As for the way between Jomsom and Kagbeni? Well, it is a river bed and no path suitable for a bike.

Also be aware that there is a daily wind from N to S that starts blowing mid morning. The wind is strong enough that you are better off avoiding it, you definitely don't want to walk (bicycle?) against it.

>> Question 4

>> But I am really worried about altitude sickness in Jomsom- because I

>> come from flat country really.Read somewhere that altitude sickness is a

>> problem if someone flys Pokhara-Jomsom.

>Jomosom is only at 2800 metres altitude. Unless You are a sickly person

>there is not the slightest risk that You will get mountain sickness. I

>have flown in twice without any problem.

Medical science has not been able to find rhyme or reason to determine which people are at risk of getting high altitude sickness. It can strike as low as 3000 meters but that is not common. Be sure you know how to recognise HAS.

Oh, and be sure to obtain a trekking permit in Kathmandu or Pokhara.

If you like hot springs you may be interested to walk out through the Kali Ghandaki (deepest valley in the world between Dauligiri and Annapurna both over 8000 M.) through the village of Tatopani (Nepali Tato=hot Pani=water). There is a concrete pool. The water is so hot that the first time I was there I would not have believed it was possible for a human to get in without cooking, but seeing other people survive I overcame the heat and got in.

Frank

*Frank Kroger, fkroger@halcyon.com, (volunteer) Seattle WA US

**World Neighbors: Strengthening the capacity of

*** marginalized communities to meet their basic needs.

**** "LOCAL PEOPLE ARE THE EXPERTS"

http://www.halcyon.com/fkroger/wn.html


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