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| Stego's FAQ on Nepal travel v.3 - Miscelaneous 2/3 |
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Keywords: Miscelaneous
From: Mário Pires <stego@cfn.ist.utl.pt>
| Date: 95.07.27 | (Id.: 152) |
2) Get your "treking permit" (most of the treks, if not all, are forbidden without it) in the "Imigration Office" in Kathmandu. Although you may get it in other places, namely Pokara, I was told that it was easier in Kathmandu. Alternatively you can get it on an agency, if you don't want to spend 1 or 2 hours in the queues (check the prices).
3) Try lo leave behind all the stuff that's not strictly necessary. When I was in Annapurna I had left a bag in Kathmandu and another in Pokara, and I was carrying with me just a few clothes, documents and photo equipment.
Everyone told me that it's safe to keep luggage in the hotels and guesthouses, and it's really cheap when not free. I think the average Nepali is a really honest guy: I've forgotten a bag with sunglasses, photo lenses, airplane ticket, passport and some more stuff in a taxi and I recovered it all - the taximan delivered it at the Thai embassy (the ticket was from Thai). The people of the Thai embassy managed to discover my hotel and they phoned there. Since I was not anymore in Kathmandu when that happened, I got the big news (you imagine what a relief!) when I returned several days after.
About Mustang: for what I've read and hear, I believe it's an amazing trek, but I'd do some several treks before it because of the price: the permit to go there costs some several hundreds USD (at least 200, maybe 700), and you get really great sensations in others places with much less money.
Keywords: Miscelaneous, Guides & porters, Clothes, Entering the country, Places & itineraries, Accomodation
From: Mário Pires <stego@cfn.ist.utl.pt>
| Date: 95.11.24 | (Id.: 151) |
The non-trekker can pass a real good time in Kathmandu and Pokhara (the only towns I knew), even Kathmandu being disliked by much people because is too crowded (with naturals and tourists also), polluted and dirty. After all, those are common things in the 3rd World, and if we keep away from less clean places we'd better go only to developped countries.
Nepalis are a wonderful persons. They don't hassle too much, they're kind and they're honest, although it's wise to pay attention to the prices because some will try to sell you things or services for exagerated prices. That was the only (little) "dishonnesty" I found there.
I'm kind of biased on this because there happened a thing that it's not very usual in any place: I forgot a bag with photo lenses, sunglasses, film rolls, passport, air tickets and other things in a taxi which I didn't manage to find. I was in trouble not much because of the value, but because of the passport. Portugal has no consulate in Nepal, the nearest one was in India, I wasn't able to phone to Delhi (communications with India from Nepal are nearly impossible, I was told). Even if I intended to go to Delhi, the planes were all booked and how could I enter India without passport?
Happily all went well, the german consulate (they had the presidency of EU, so legally they had the obligation to take care of me [that I discovered there by the mouth of the british consul]) talked to the nepalese immigration and they gave me a "travel document" so I could stay in the country and return home. If I could enter Thailand with that document (my plane reservations had a 3 day stop in Bangkok) that was another matter, although the kind attache of the german consul assured that the only country where I'd have trouble entering was Germany...
The day before my departure I arrived in Kathmandu and I had a message in the hotel: the Thai embassy had phoned saying that my things were there. What a relief! The taxi driver had delivered the bag there. He may have seen the Thai air tickets, so he went to the Thai embassy. The funny thing was that after passing all the days we spent in Kathmandu paying attention to taxis hoping to find the taxi driver, we finally meet him casually just when we were going to the hotel to catch our things and leave to the airport. I even written and posted a letter to him, thanking and giving my last dollar bills.
After this, what can I say about the nepalese? Not to mention the cashmiri immigrant that spent all the afternoon of the day I lost the bag with us talking to taxi drivers, going to the police, and so on, helping us. We knew him 2 days before.... A real friend!
My advise to anyone going to Nepal is to get the air ticket and do there all the plans and reservations. A walk of 2 hours in the Thamel area of Kathmandu, where you can contact randomly half a douzen travel agencies from the tens there exist there, will be enough to get a good idea what you can do and see.
I have been in Nepal last November, but I only saw the more touristic places: the Kathmandu valley, the Chitwan park and a small piece of the Jomsom-Muktinath trek, in the Annapurna area, so I can't talk about the less usual spots.
I've been said more than once than November is the best month to go. It's the driest time, there's no much dust, so views of the landscapes are better and the temperature it's nice, like an european late spring in Kathmandu, although the nights can be a little cold (let's say "south europe winter"). October and late September are supposed to be fine ok, but warmer and more wet. December also, but a little colder. I suppose that the only monthes truly not advisable are July and August, perhaps July also, the monsoon time, much rain and hot.
But it's better you check, because probably they're really not so bad.
Tourism in Nepal is really cheap. If you are not looking for big luxuries, you'll easily find a double room with attached bath with shower for less than $12-$10 USD. As for the food, expect to pay $3 USD or less for a dinner or lunch in an average restaurant.
I didn't find any need of guide or porter in the Jomsom-Muktinath trek, and I talked to other people who didn't find it necessary in the others treks in the Annapurna and Helambu, even in the harder Annapuna sanctuary. The treks are easy to follow, no great danger of getting lost and people are kind, there are lots of other nice trekers like yourselves, so don't expect other big problems than the altitude.
You'll need a permit for treking in most areas, if not all of them. They can be obtained in the "Imigration Offices". There is one in the Thamel area of Kathmandu and one in Pokara (Annapurnas). For what I remember, a permit for 1 or 2 weeks in Annapurnas was about $20-$30 USD. Mustang and Everest (Kumbu) were much more expensive (some hundreds, I think).
About the visa for entering the country, it can be obtained in the airport, before customs, when you arrive. It costed about $25 for 20 days. You can also get it in any nepalese consulate, but I think it is not worth the trouble. We didn't even tried that because Nepal has no diplomatic relations with Portugal, so I imagine we had to go to Madrid, Paris or London.
Bring to the trek only the strictly necessary: clothes, money, documents, photo equipment, and so on. At least in Anapurna there are plenty of places where to sleep and eat, and although I dont't know the it, the same goes for Helambu (here there are less options). Perhaps it's good idea to bring a light sleeping bag or a clean sheet, just in case you have to sleep in a dirtier place. I didn't need it, but after all, I could have been lucky.
I would say you can expect to spend less than $6-$10 a day in the Annapurna treks, food and sleeping included, but be prepared for really basic accomodations.
Although I am not used to trek or to altitude, I found the trek relatively easy. Note that I don't do any sports, I don't walk too much, I smoke and I've been above 1000 meters only a douzen times. Before I went to Nepal, my altitude records were 2000-2200 mt here in Portugal and Pirenes and 2600-2800 in Atlas. Anyway, in Portugal and Pirenes I didn't walk more than a few Km per day, and in Atlas I moved in a jeep. Nevertheless, we were told that we did wrong in getting to Jomsom (3000 mt) by plane and begin treking imediatly. It's more clever to give the body more time to adapt to altitude. My girl companion suffered a little in the falling of the 1st day, but perhaps it had nothing to do with altitude. She tires a lot when climbing and she very determinate, so she was very angry when we didn't manage to meet our objective: sleep in Muktinath. Anyway, after a warm dinner with some hot tea and talk, a big sleep in the dirtiest and coldest room with the most spectacular view and a breakfast, she was smiling the morning after. The psicological matters are as important as the physical, and with that magnificent landscape, one forgets everything bad!
In Annapurnas, during the day (from 1 hour after the sunrise until 1 hour before sunset), I wore summer clothes. At sunrise and at sunfall a sweater or light jacket is enough for supporting the cool temperatures (I was walking, and that kept me warm). At night it could be cold (even below zero), but at that time I was already in house and all the rooms I rent had plenty of blankets, though sometimes the lodges (usually with fancy names like "Hotel Plaza") were somewhat crowded since it was high season. I'd say that a sweater and perhaps a feather jacket just for insurance is enough to trek in Anapurna in November. For what I heard, October is a little warmer.
I got the idea that it's safe to let some of the luggage in the hotels of Kathmandu and/or Pokara. When I was in Anapurna, I brought only a little back bag, I left a part of the luggage in Kathmandu and another part in Pokara.
Concerning to equipment, nothing to worry - you need very little to go in Annapurna, and you can buy or rent all you need by a good price in Kathmandu or Phokara. I'd advise everybody don't buy any treking equipment or clothes at home unless you are interested in very special or high end stuff.
If you are planing to see the Chitwan National park, perhaps it's wise to take a package tour in Pokara or Kathmandu ($50-$60 USD for 3 days and 2 or 3 nights, including lodgment, tranportation, guided tours and entrance to the park). You risk paying more if you don't do it, mainly because you have to take a jeep to Saura when you arrive the bus stop, so you have little "bargaining power" because the jeeps are all from the lodges. We got the idea that in Saura all things are oriented towards the package tour, and the prices don't vary too much, except for 2 things: the quality of the lodgment (anyway, all very basic for what I've seen), and the elefant ride being inside or outside the park. The latter is a little more expensive but we were told and we believed that's not worth because not only of the price, but also because inside the park the "elefant grass" is too high in October and November, so you have less chances to see rhinos (some people and the publicity says that inside the park you may see tigers and even wild elephants, but I didn't met anyone who did).
The park is worth seeing - much different from the rest of Nepal, at least from the Kathmandu, Pokhara and Annapurna area. Although I've never been to there, I think that it's much like northeast India - those plains we use to see on the documentaries about Bengala tigers and rhinos. A little too touristic, but after all we can't be that radical on anti-tourists (that's what we are...).
About more "off the beaten path" treks, I got very curious about Helambu when I heard about it from a dutch couple I knew in Kathmandu. They had done part of the Anapurna circuit and they liked a lot both treks, though sleeping and eating conditions in Helambu are harder than in Anapurna.
About lodgment in Kathmandu, try the Thamel area - there you're able to find a clean double room with private bath with hot shower by less than USD $8 - $10 a day. I saw that someone pointed you "Kathmandu Guesthouse" - that's a very kind little hotel, but if you are not very attached to "luxury" it's kind of expensive for Kathmandu - USD $20 a day, I think. I liked to stay in "Sherpa Guesthouse", but I'm not saying it's the best place around - I don't spend much time looking for room...
I only eated in 2 places in Kathmandu - my companion was a girl of habits, and since she liked a lot our first restaurant she didn't want any other.
His name: Tashi Deleg, tibetan, near Kathmandu Guesthouse, in Thamel.
There you can dinner for less than $4, in a familiar environment. When I was there we managed to begin knowing the personel and some of the customers very quickly. It worked much like our "cafe", that place where you find your friends without marking anything, though those friends were just known yesterday or some days ago.
For the "goodbye Nepal" we decided to go to a fancier place - we took the restaurant of the "Hotel des Anapurnas" (I don't remember its name), it's in the Durbar Margh (perhaps the spelling is not correct), the street of the airline companies. I think it was the only place in Nepal where I saw europeans wearing tie... The food and service it's something to remember; the price: about $15 (less than $20 for sure) per person.
If you haven't been in the 3rd World yet, you'll probably a little bit disoriented when you leave the airport gate. You'll get surrounded by a douzen boys peaking your luggage, taxi drivers pushing you to their taxis, and so on. Don't be afraid! Pay attention but no panic... They didn't seemed to me really dangerous.
Perhaps you'll find difficulties in arranging a taxi in the airport that doesn't "force" you to go to "their" guesthouse. In that case, if you want to try it, certify that the guesthouse of the taxi is in Thamel or, alternatively, Freak Street. If you want you can point them "Sherpa Guesthouse" - I stayed there last October for $8 a day and it was ok.
Allways try not to pay the taxi ride.
If you are a little bit like me, not very good in bargaining a lot, perhaps it's best to simply look for the cheapest taxi and perhaps tell them to get you to some place you already know the name. If any taxi driver tries to get to an hotel, try not to pay for the ride, because sometimes the hotels pay the taxi. If you want to go for yourself looking for room, simply go to Thamel.
If you pass through Pokhara, a very nice little town near the Annapurnas, I recomend you strongly the "Twin Peaks hotel". The owner of the nicest man I know. Tell him that you've heard of him from me, the portuguese couple that was there in November near the elections, when there was a land sliding on the K'du road. Perhaps he'll make you a special price. For what I remember, we've payed $5 or $6 for a double room with private bath.
I'd advise to get the Lonely Planet's guidebook or another good book. I'm sure they'll have some good advices, not only on weather but on other things too. Note that I have no personal interests in LP, simply I consider it a good guide book.
On the other hand, I confess I only read it a little bit, mainly when I was already flying to Kathmandu, and even considering that my companion read it a little bit more, I consider Nepal a fairly easy country to travel without any guidance, specially if you aren't too worried about runing away from more crowded and touristic places, but I doubt seriously that you'll find much tourists there in January. After all, "touristic" in Nepal has nothing to do with "touristic" in other more conventional or developped (at least touristically developped) country and although in November, the highest season, you may find plenty of tourists in some areas, they're much more interesting and less annoying than the average tourist you may find in south Europe, Caribe or even north Africa, just to cite the places I know best. People who goes to Nepal does it mostly to trek, so generally they have quite different interests than the "beach and sun" tourist (nothing against this kind of holidays, I loved it, simply there are persons that *only* like that kind :-)).
Keywords: Miscelaneous, Transportation, Airplanes & Airports, Places & itineraries
From: Manuel Freitas <mfreitas@bbnplanet.com>
| Date: 96.02.06 | (Id.: 26) |
>I was wondering if anyone could provide some advice or anecdotes on
>travelling/trekking in Nepal. My friend and I will be flying to Nepal
>for the month of March. We've done some reading (lonely planet guides
>are great) and realize we could organize everything in Nepal.
>However, because we've got a limited time in Nepal, we've booked a
……
>Anyways, we're planning a 2 week Annapurna Sanctuary trek, 1.5 days in
>Pokhara, 3 days in Chitwan on safari, 1 day in Daman, and 7 days in
>Kathmandu and surrounding area. Is this a good itenary? Should we
>even have an itenary? Sometimes and in some places, having an itenary
>is either useless or takes away from the fun. Also, our guidebook
>says that Daman has, arguably, the best views in Nepal. Is this true?
>
It sounds like a good split.
If you booked a tour how would you not have an itinerary?
One thing is for sure, you could easily do the exact same thing on your own and for half the price. In Nepal an itinerary is something you totally neglect after your second day but you'll need more time there.
So, yes do have an itinerary for such a short visit.
>Also, we've read that there are many festivals in Nepal. Which
>festivals will be celebrated in March? On what day(s) will the
>festival(s) happen?
>
The Lonely Planet should give the dates of all the fetivals.
>Finally, we're flying on KLM via Amsterdam to Delhi, India. From
>there, we fly to Kathmandu on Royal Nepal Airlines. Has anyone flown
>on this airline (RNA)? Are they reliable? Will our seats get bumped?
>
It depends on what you consider reliable. Yes, they will put you there but not necessarily on the day and time that you really want :-)
On such a tight schedule you should have opted for a more reliable thus more expensive airline. I think your money would have been better spent on a more reliable/expensive airline than on a tour.
I wish you all the best, Nepal is wonderful "Kontry".
Keywords: Money & costs
From: Mário Pires <stego@cfn.ist.utl.pt>
| Date: 95.09.25 | (Id.: 156) |
At the banks and exchange agencies, the rates for currency or traveller's checks differs slightly. I don't remember what was the best...
Being german like you are, I'd consider bring the major part of currency in german marks. Maybe they're not widely accepted directly, but I'd bet the banks change them and that way you'll only have to make one exchange, with less one tax and comission.
Keywords: Politics
From: Padam Sharma <sharma@plains.nodak.edu>
| Date: 96.05.12 | (Id.: 36) |
Padam Prasad Sharma
________________________________________________________
The author is the founder/coordinator of Empower Nepal International -- a global network of individuals and organizations interested in development of Nepal. The mission of the ENI is to pool resources and disseminate in Nepal to support Nepali people improve the quality of life and that of the environment. To learn more about the ENI, please contact the author at 701-258-2066 OR Email:sharma@plains.nodak.edu OR visit Nepal Home Page and follow the lead under "Development and Environment". Thanks.
_____________________________________________________________
Sitting on the lap of the majestic Himalayas in South Asia, Nepal is the most picturesque country in the world. From sub-tropical plains in the south to temperate Himalayan peaks in the north, from humid east to semi-arid west, Nepal displays a panorama of mountainous landscape and bio-diversity. To the traveler of this landlocked mountain kingdom of terraced hillslopes and valleys, Nepal presents a romantic challenge to visit again and again.
Nepal invites visitors with warmth, friendliness, and the mysticism of the land of the Himalayan cow, the Yak and the abominable snowman, the Yeti.
Known around the world by the valor of Gorkha soldiers and the endurance of Sherpa mountain guides, Nepalis are proud of their country's independent heritage. Developed in ecological niches of mountains, valleys, and plains, the cultural diversity of Nepal's 22 million people demonstrates a unique character of ethnic and religious harmony. The beauty of Nepal's landscape, bio-diversity, and cultural heritage is for the world to behold now and forever in the future.
Nepal Lacks Resources to Sustain its Beauty
Beneath the facade of natural beauty and rich cultural diversity, Nepal is one of the poorest countries in the World. Agriculture is the subsistence activity of 90 percent of the mostly illiterate population with annual per capita income around $200. Due to poor soil quality of intensively cultivated sloping lands and lack of appropriate technology to improve and sustain yields, the agricultural productivity is very low and declining. The abundance of clean tilled slopes and deforested hillsides fail to dissipate high erosive energy of monsoon rain and runoff.
Accelerated soil erosion and landslides further reduce land productivity, pollute water, damage expensive irrigation and hydro-electricity infrastructures and roadways. The excess water runs off downhill causing annual havoc of floods in the valleys and plains while increasing the scarcity of water in the hills.
The population pressure, lack of education and health care, and mismanagement of human and natural resources have caused degradation of the quality of human life and that of the environment. The lack of alternative employment and entrepreneurial opportunities in the villages is driving more unemployed people from hills to terai and to bigger cities.
During the last decade, the beautiful city of Kathmandu has grown into an urban slum; its holy rivers have turned into a big waste disposal swamp while the residents are facing acute shortage of good quality water. Filth covers the rich cultural history of the capital; polluted air chokes the young and the old; smog blindfolds the Himalayas blessing the valley.
Democracy Brings Hope and Anxiety
Development priorities and choices made by autocratic governments of the past are partly responsible for today's Nepali underdevelopment dilemma. With the generous assistance of international community since the 1950's, the centrally controlled economy under the Panchayat System did solve some education and health care problems while procreating foreign-aid dependency. The available resources were mostly dissipated among Kathmandu's elite sparing little or no hope for the poor people living in off-the-road rural communities.
With the onset of democracy in 1990, there came a glimmer of hope that the populace will be motivated and empowered to participate in nation building activities. Until now, continued bickering within and between various political factions has produced unstable governments and precluded political leaders from developing a shared vision for the future. Despite massive financial and technical assistance from developed countries around the world, Nepal continues to slide down the quality of life scale.
Behind the cloak of democracy, the power structure is still centralized and caught in a vicious spiral of egoistic "What is in it for me?" culture. This politico-bureaucratic culture thrives on selfish-opportunism, corruption, discredition of talents and honesty, and intolerance to democratic norms and alternative view points. By propagating dependency and frustration, the selfish culture continues to breed social discontent and anger. If the current state of socio-political chaos is allowed to deteriorate, the probability of Nepal experiencing unmanageable civil discontent, inter-religious and ethnic violence, and anarchy by unscrupulous elements is very high. In fact, symptoms of civil strife and anarchy have already erupted questioning the myth of "beautiful and peaceful" Nepal.
The germination and growth of a healthy plant is a good metaphor for the holistic growth of individuals and institutions.
Nepali people made great sacrifices to germinate the seedling of democracy. Given the current state of lack of vision and impatience, the forces that stunt and skew Nepal's natural democratic growth are overwhelming. To achieve full genetic potential, this newly germinated seedling needs proper climate, irrigation, fertilization, and most of all, an integrated pest management. Continued international assistance and the combined goodwill, energy and resources of Nepal lovers from around the world and in Nepal will provide critical inputs needed to change the development climate of Nepal. To enable future Nepali generations to harvest the optimum yield of democracy, the timing and method of application of these inputs is also very important. Otherwise, this beautiful plant will wither and die endangering the survival of Nepali identity and culture.
Need a Quality Based Paradigm for a Better Tomorrow
Delivery of international assistance through government channels has produced less than desirable results. Nepal needs to improve the quality of its public sector institutions to make maximum use of dwindling international assistance. Efforts to pool individual and institutional resources to solve watershed scale problems with participation of local people is timely and prudent. Since the onset of democracy, non-governmental organizations (NGO's) are making some efforts to sieve and disseminate technology to rural communities. Efforts of a plethora of these NGO's need to be evaluated and coordinated to insure quality and efficiency.
Additional international impetus is needed to promote individual to individual and NGO-NGO contacts and emphasize the integrated role of both human and environmental quality on national development of Nepal.
To effectively disseminate the fruits of democracy, Nepal needs creditable individuals and organizations producing quality goods and services. One positive gain of continued international assistance is that Nepal has developed a critical mass of highly educated people who believe in democratic values and ethical practices. Some of these dedicated individuals are making significant contributions in Nepal. Due to lack of stable institutional support and recognition, many others are disheartened, demoralized, and their talents underutilized. By supporting and recognizing the work of dedicated individuals in Nepal, friends from outside can help to bring out the best in them. Only by uplifting the morale and strength of its workers and institutions, Nepal can withstand the forces of accelerating political pendulum and stay the course of national development.
Only by promoting quality education and empowering individuals to achieve their highest potential in a healthy environment, crawling Nepal can take the first step towards the Sagarmatha of human dignity and nirvana.
*************************************************
Padam Sharma
812 West Divide Ave
Bismarck, ND 5801
701-258-2066 Email: sharma@plains.nodak.edu
Keywords: Women
From: Petri Kaipiainen <petkai@nanda.pp.fi>
| Date: 95.09.14 | (Id.: 40) |
>girl alone.
Nepal is quite easy to sigle females, this means it is quite safe to travel alone at least compared to some other countries. This is not recommended, though, as it is not customary to do so. Local females always travel in groups. (Hindu) Nepal is a male oriented society, in the buddhist mountains women are traditionally more independent.
Girls should recpect local customs and wear a long skirt (very convenient.
.. .) and nothing too revealing. A woman trekker in short pants only gets funny looks and jeers from locals.
Petri K.
---------------
for pro photos of Nepal look http://www.eunet.fi/nepal/
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© J. Mário Pires, 4 Mar 97
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