Stego's FAQ on Nepal travel v.3 - To & from Tibet 1/1

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Subject(s): Trekking to Mustang - opinion on an agency trek

Keywords: Mustang (Lo), Money & costs

From: Per Löwdin <dokomb@us.uu.se>

Date: 96.04.19(Id.: 93)


girolami jean-pierre <girolami@rangueil.inserm.fr> wrote:

>The cost for this programm everything included from KTH to KTH is 2200US

>(Special permit for Mustang is 700 US for 10 days, AIR planes tickets

>are 250 US the rest is salary for liaison officer, nepali staff and food

>The group is 5 adults and 2 children 12 & 16 and will leave France on

>July 26

The price is absolutely ridiculous. I know it is not Your fault. But still. I donĄt understand what is so special about Mustang. It is dry and arid. Comparable to Ladakh, Lahaul, Spiti and of course Tibet, places You can visit without exorbitant surcharges. And, if You bring in cooks "staff", food, etc., are the locals going to earn any money from Your visit? If not they are not going to have a friendly attitude for long. On the contrary they are going to be really put off by being a human zoo. Deregulation of this trekk would bring benefits for the local economy. Though people who donĄt think the locals have a right to chose will find the idea horrendous.

In any case for 2200 dollars one can go with a respectable airline from almost anywhere in the world and spend a month in a Lama-buddhistic, or if you prefer, Tibetan-speaking area, and return.

Per



Subject(s): Trekking to Mt. Kailash from Mustang

Keywords: Mustang (Lo), Going & coming from Tibet

From: frank krielaart <alfazet@xs4all.nl>

Date: 96.07.08(Id.: 23)


No way! It's certainly not a good idea to travel through Mustang area to Mount Kailas! It's quite a long way (maybe 2 months walking!!!) ans furthermore you're not allowed to pass through Mustang without paying a LOT of money to the nepalese government because Mustang is a restricted area.

The best way to near the Mount Kailas is from Simikot in western Nepal.

Fly in from Nepalganj (Nepalese lowlands) to Simikot and walk all the way (3-4 weeks) to Mount Kailas. Trekking permits etc. are obtainable in kathamndu and Pokhara... but not at every corner..

Good Luck.

Frank



Subject(s): Nepal to Tibet

Keywords: Going & coming from Tibet

From: Vern Lefebre <lefebre@baltic.nmt.edu>

Date: 96.03.04(Id.: 102)


On 22 Feb 1996, TiInG LiAng wrote:

>Hello, I'm planning to enter tibet via nepal in may, and to

>tell the truth, i'm worried sick because i've to catch a return flight on

>a specified date from kathmandu, and the border keeps changing its rules

>about who and when you can cross.

>I would like to know some things, and i truly hope you can help.

>: We,a group of three, entered Tibet by road from Nepal on Dec 18. When we

>: arrived in Lhasa on Dec. 20,

>1) Does the transport stop along the way for you to rest, or is it 3 days

>straight on the vehicle, with meal breaks only??

>Our driver left at 5 in the morning from Zhangmu and we arrived in Lhasa at 8:30 pm that evening. Two pee stops and time for half a bowl of noodles was allowed.

>2) How much is transport from Kathmandu to the border?

We took a local bus from Kathmandu to the Tibetan border, cost was about $3 per seat, not much. To insure some comfort, we bought two seats each so that we could spread out. Space for western knees on these buses is lacking, so you need to accommodate your legs by sitting sideways. On our return, using the same route, we rode on the roof on the bus, illegal but allowed.

>3) How much is the travel permit which allows you to cross into Tibet?

Our Tibetan driver and his friend, a Chinese army officer, got the official who wrote the passes out of bed, it was still early in the morning, and commanded him to write our pass. The cost was about 35Y.

The visa allows one to cross the border but not to travel into the interior of Tibet.

>If i already have a Chinese Visa, is the permit necessary?

The first check point outside of Zhangmu required us to show our pass, our officer tried to argue but we had to return and get the pass.

>: usually there was a line of trucks at these check points.

>4) Does it mean that i do not have to worry about onward transport, and I

>can bargain hard ?? :)

We were told that riding on a truck would get the truck driver into serious trouble so we never tried that mode of transport. Usually, a number of landcruisers are waiting in Zhangmu to take travelers to Lhasa. We had arranged for a private driver and his vehicle to take us to Lhasa but the government driver arrived early and the army officer insisted that we ride with them, we had no choice in the matter. The 600Y/person was the standard rate.

>5) Finally, are you saying that 600Y/ person is the normal rate??? It

>sounds high to me....:(. Would you by any chance know the air-ticket

>price from Lhasa to kathmandu?? I'm trying to weigh the options.

The flight from Kathmandu to Lhasa is somewhat higher (about #100.) but was not available in Dec. Our return trip to the border was 3,500Y for three people, about twice the price of our trip in. This trip was arranged by the "offical" Chinese travel agency and the price was the standard charge for such a trip.

>......



Subject(s): Going to Tibet by land

Keywords: Going & coming from Tibet

From: Vern Lefebre <lefebre@baltic.nmt.edu>

Date: 96.03.20(Id.: 103)


We went to Lhasa on the friendship highway from Zhungmu on the Nepal-Tibet border last December. At that time, tourists were not allowed on the flights from Chengdu so the only way to enter was by road from Nepal and, perhaps, from Golmud. As far as I know, this was not made known to the public by the Chinese government. In Chengdu, the tourist was told he wasn't allowed on the flight to Lhasa. While in Tibet we were not allowed to visit certain monasteries, no reasons were given. Our driver could not take us to the monastery in Shagatze, however, he could drive us to the city of Shagatze and we could walk to the monastery from the Tibetan section of town. These rules are always changing so the only advice I can give is to be flexible.

Vern LeFebre

lefebre@baltic.nmt.edu



Subject(s): Going to Tibet by land

Keywords: Going & coming from Tibet

From: Vern Lefebre <lefebre@baltic.nmt.edu>

Date: 96.04.01(Id.: 104)


Having passed through Tingri on the friendship highway during the last days of December of last year, we found the highway relatively clear of snow, certainly passable by a toyota landcruiser which we had rented in Lhasa. The road is maintained for the truck traffic to Zhangmu and the trade across the Nepal border. Night time temperatures in Tingri were way below 0 deg. F. but day time highs were above freezing as long as the sun was shining and no wind was blowing. We did encounter some bicycle riders from Australia who needed a ride across the passes to Nepal because of the snow on the road and, I suppose, the cold temperatures in the morning and late afternoon. We had left Lhasa after a rare storm that had covered the courtyard of the Snowland hotel with snow, so the weather during our trip out was not unusually mild, and most of the peaks along the highway had a fresh cover of snow. However, I would not reommend hiking to the base of Everest because of the extreme cold at night.

Vern LeFebre

lefebre @ baltic.nmt.edu



Subject(s): Going to Tibet by land

Keywords: Going & coming from Tibet

From: Vern Lefebre <lefebre@baltic.nmt.edu>

Date: 96.04.10(Id.: 105)


We, a small group of three, went overland from Nepal to Lhasa in the middle of last December which was after the trouble with the reincarnate of the Panchen Lama. At that time the road, the friendship highway, was open and we had no difficulty finding a vehicle and driver in Zhangmu who was willing to take us to Lhasa. However, a member of the Chinese government insisted that we ride with him and an army officer in a new Toyota landcruiser ( they wanted to make some extra cash). The trip took one day and the officer helped us through the check points. The cost was 1800Y for the three of us. The private drivers had the same price. During this time, westerners were not allowed on the flights to Lhasa from Chendu.

The Holiday Inn was empty, we stayed at the Snowland Hotel. Very few tourists were visible in Lhasa, 20, at most. It was like being in the Tibet of old when the country was closed to outsiders.

Vern LeFebre



Subject(s): Going to Tibet by land

Keywords: Going & coming from Tibet

From: Vern Lefebre <lefebre@baltic.nmt.edu>

Date: 96.04.15(Id.: 106)


Three of us entered Tibet from Nepal on Dec. 20 and left by road, returning to Nepal, on Dec 28. A Chinese Visa was required, which is gotten through a Chinese embassy, and a travel permit was also required.

The permit was purchased from an official in Zhangmu, on the Nepal border. Even though a Chinese army officer accompanied us on our trip, we were still required to display the permit. Vehicles for the overland trip to Lhasa are easily found in Zhangmu. We were taken by a chinese driver and an army officer because they need some extra cash and insisted that we ride with them. Since they had a new Toyota Landcruiser, we didn't object. The trip took 13 hours. We were not in a group and my impression is that people not traveling in a group have much greater freedom in Tibet.

Vern LeFebre



Subject(s): Entering Nepal from Tibet through the Everest Base Camp

Keywords: Going & coming from Tibet, Everest area

From: Martin Egger <EGGER@id.unibe.ch>

Date: 96.06.14(Id.: 222)


In article <4prc8q$8ag@aragorn.unibe.ch>, I wrote:

>In article <Pine.SOL.3.91.960613151101.237A-100000@breakout.rs.itd.umich.edu>, Eric Jon Allenspach <ejallens@umich.edu> writes:

>> I am currently in the process of planning a month long hike from

>>Tibet to Nepal and would like to take the Tibetan route to the Mt.

>>Everest Base Camp and then continue across the border into Nepal and trek

>>towards Kathmandu. First of all...is this possible? and secondly...would

>>I need extreme experience to do such an excursion?

>In general, yes, it is possible. There is a very precise 1:50'000 map of the

>Everest region available, so all passes etc. from BC1 to Nepal are on this map.

>But: these passes are as high as 6'000 to 7'000 meters and they are probably

>covered by snow and ice during the whole year. So you do need very good

>equipment and mountaineering training and experience.

Just checked my copy of this map at home:

From BC1 you can follow the Rongbuk Glacier for about 15 km in south direction, cross it then (about 5700 m) and walk up on the glacier (!) to the Lho La pass (6026 m), cross the frontier at this pass and climb down to the BC on the Nepali side (5300 m). The last part looks damned steep from the map!

Some comments on this:

In last october we went from Rongbuk to BC1 and then some 5 km further south until about 5500 m. Back to Rongbuk on the same day. Sleeping at BC1 and giving it an early start you *should* be able to go from BC1 to the Nepali BC in one day, depending on weather conditions, your fitness, your equipment and good luck. But (!!!) keep in mind: This is high alpine stuff! Never do such things alone. Your group needs to have experience in crossing a glacier, walking uphill on ice and climbing down on ice and rock. You definitively need some equipment (ropes and climbing iron).

For sleeping at BC1 and going onwards from there you will probably have to pay a fee, no idea how much it is.

Martin



Subject(s): Entering Nepal from Tibet through the Everest Base Camp

Keywords: Going & coming from Tibet, Everest area

From: Per Löwdin <Per.Lowdin@statsvet.uu.se>

Date: 96.06.17(Id.: 223)


<Pine.SOL.3.91.960613151101.237A-100000@breakout.rs.itd.umich.edu>, ejallens@umich.edu wrote...

>Anyone with an answer,

> I am currently in the process of planning a month long hike from

>Tibet to Nepal and would like to take the Tibetan route to the Mt.

>Everest Base Camp and then continue across the border into Nepal and trek

>towards Kathmandu. First of all...is this possible? and secondly...would

>I need extreme experience to do such an excursion?

We were on the Nepali side 1992 at Goraksheep and Kala Pattar a mountain people ascend to view Everest some 5500? meters high. Then we had a good view of the Lho La. The pass just west of Everest west ridge. In my opinion it would be rather difficult to cross. The Nepali side is extremely steep snow slopes. There may be a great risk for avalanches. To cross it safely You need, 45 m rope, prusiks, crampoons, ice screws, etc, in short You have to come equipped for ice-climbing. Furthermore, You are going to have problems with the Nepalese authorities if You are discovered. Assuming that would not be a problem I think there is a pass further west that is lower and less steep. On the Schneider map it looks like if it could be crossed rather easily. Still You would have to walk at least to days on enormous glacial morrains down to Gokyo. It is not all that fun and You may have problems with glacial rivers. To do it You should preferably be a party of three and have basic skills in pulling each other out of crevasses. A third option is the pass to the next valley. It is the route the locals use. Though I think the nepalis will not appreciate if You come across from Tibet. The valley above Thimi is restricted for foreigners and if You come down there without a trekking permit You may have a lot of problems.

Per



Subject(s): Traveling from Nepal to Tibet (when to do it)

Keywords: Going & coming from Tibet

From: John Sheehy <jms@echonyc.com>

Date: 96.07.16(Id.: 111)


Andy King wrote:

> Does anybody know whether this route is closed at any time of year

> because of bad weather? I noticed one poster said they'd done it

> in December - does this mean it's open year-round?

In 1993 I took this route (leaving from Nepal on 4/4) and I was told that it had been open for a couple of weeks. Regardless of whether the road is open to tourists Jan-Mar, it could be a really miserable trip for anybody attempting it at those times. For the first several days the road is (or was in 1993) unpaved and bordered by snow. It has very little traffic and checkpoints and villages are very far apart. If your vehicle has mechanical troubles you are really stuck. In April the strong sun made the daytime temperature tolerable, but nighttime was frigid in the unheated hotels (these are also far apart and may close during the winter).

It was a fantastic trip and I strongly reccomend it. BUT I also strongly advise against trying to do it in Winter even if some tour operator has a package like that. Anybody thinking about hitching rides in the back of heavy duty trucks at that time of year must be really nuts.



Subject(s):

Keywords: Going & coming from Tibet

From: Stan Armingt <stan@mos.com.np>

Date: 96.08.16(Id.: 163)


"Alan L. Sykes" <als@win.bright.net> wrote:

>Most the the literature states that there are Tues and Saturday flights.

>Yet the new Lonely Planet talks about Tues and Thursday.

>...

Tuesday and Saturday. Will operate through and of October or early November only.

You MUST have a chinese visa issued in Nepal. To get that visa you must book your trip with an official travel agency in Tibet. The airline checks your visa before they will sell you a ticket. The Chinese embassy in Kathmandu will cancel any other Chinese visa you have when they get hold of your passport.



Subject(s): Tibet visa in Nepal

Keywords: Going & coming from Tibet

From: Juergen Pesch <juergen.pesch@neuss.netsurf.de>

Date: 96.08.18(Id.: 165)


...

To enter Tibet you will need a valid Chinese Visa, but if you apply for this visum DON´T tell at the Chinese embassy/cosulate that you want to travel to Tibet, because the Chinese would like to keep all Tourists out of Tibet, because tourism = money and money = economical strength. For the same reason don´t get your Nepal visum before you have got the Chinese one. Because otherwise the Chinese will probably give you a Visum with an "exept Tibet" stamp on it.

I wish you a lot of fun in Tibet.

Jürgen



Subject(s): Visas and permits to enter Tibet

Keywords: Going & coming from Tibet

From: TiInG LiAng <eng40073@leonis.nus.sg>

Date: 96.08.19(Id.: 166)


Lars Colombo/Theresia Janzon (stiffbreeze@mbox330.swipnet.se) wrote:

: Do I need:

: * Visa

Yes, you need a valid Chinese visa. Get it in your home country, can save you a lot of hassle.

: * Permits

Yep, you need a permit. If you are crossing overland, you have to proceed to the CITS office in Zhangmu(the border town) to get your permit. Of course, the authorities won't be that dumb to let you walk all over Tibet with the permit. You would have to pay for the permit AND the transport from the border to Lhasa. The package is priced at US$100, no bargaining. The trip takes 2 days, with a stopover in Shigatse.

If you are going by air, I'm afraid I can't help you. BUT I think the kathmandu people will tell you it's impossible to go to Tibet as an independent traveller. They will then direct you to a group tour!

: * US-dollar

Other than the above mentioned transaction, there is no need for US$.

Every deal is done in Chinese yuan once you are in Lhasa.

: * Ticket out from Tibet

To my knowledge, you don't need this.

: Please, give me all your inormation about Lhasa.

Nice place....fascinating monasteries to see. Relatively cheap accomodation and food, so don't worry, just go ahead and enjoy!

tl:)



Subject(s): Kathmandu to Lhasa (valid visas)

Keywords: Going & coming from Tibet

From: Per Löwdin <dokomb@us.uu.se>

Date: 96.09.12(Id.: 114)


In article <511bqs$jc8@news.space.net>, Tappe@terraSat.SpaceNet.de (Joachim Tappe) wrote:

> I want to travel with one friend from Kathmandu to Lhasa in the beginning of

> oktober. We would prefer to go independently. I have heard that in the moment

> only groups are allowed to enter Tibet, but that it may be possible to

> separate from the group in Tibet.

We just came back. It is possible to cross the land border to Tibet as individual travellers if You have a visa not issued in Kathmandu. At least it was in late July. However, there is a racket in Kathmandu. The chinese embassy and all travel agents will inform You that it is absolutely impossible and that You have to get a visa through them via an agent for a hefty sum (part of which according to reliable sources goes as a bribe to embassy staff). If You go to ask them if You can go on a visa issued somewhere else and they get to see Your passport they will kindly stamp NOT VALIO FOR TIBET in it. So stay away from the embassy and from nepalli travel agents. Expect only disinformation from the latter.

> Has anyone done this trip in the last months?

> Who knows the latest Visa regulations and possibilities for individual

> travellers?

We had an extremely unpleasant experience. At Zangmu CITS forced us to take a land cruiser to Lhasa for 100US dollars per person. In Lhasa foreigners were banned from buying bus tickets to Shigatse and most other places so we took a plane to Kathmandu and went trekking in Nepal instead.

If You go expect to be ripped off continuously by CITS.

Per



Subject(s): Katmandu to Lhasa

Keywords: Going & coming from Tibet

From: Per Löwdin <dokomb@us.uu.se>

Date: 96.10.04(Id.: 173)


In article <324FC633.289C@iutbay.univ-pau.fr>, "Jean-Marc.Fiton"

<jmf@iutbay.univ-pau.fr> wrote:

> I just come back from Nepal (trekking around Annapurna) and I had an

> experience for a 3 days package tour in Chitwan National Park, sold by

> one of the multiple "travel agencies" of Thamel. It seems that the

> majority (?) of such agencies are acting like this one.

> Well, I had not problems like yours, but they sold me a package

> including perhaps 10 activities and I just got 5 of them ...

> So, take care with this kind of agencies, and must of all when there are

> risks like rafting for example. Try to ask other people.

We had some problems too this summer. We bought tickets for a minibus to Pokhara from a place that called it self "student travels" or something similar. They promised very explicitly that it would be a minibus but in the morning when we came to Kanthipath to get on the bus it turned out to be a big uncomfortable and slow one. We made a fuss and fortunately there were some seats on the so called Swiss minibus which we could have, though we had to pay for them.

When we returned to Kathmandu we went to Student travels and explained that we would call the police, sit on their door step to warn everybody off, etc, until they refunded us. We got a refund.

It is not that I cannot live with going on an uncomfortable bus. But when one pays extra, and makes sure it should be a comfortable bus, that kind of tricks are unacceptable.

Per



Subject(s): Flight Lhasa->Kathmandu - hassles in October 96

Keywords: Going & coming from Tibet

From: Joachim Tappe <Tappe@terraSat.SpaceNet.de>

Date: 96.10.30(Id.: 184)


When I was in Tibet in mid of october, the China Southwest Airlines flights from Lhasa to Kathmandu were heavily overbooked.

Therefore, it is important to be at Lhasa airport early (that means around 7am, the flight leaves at 10:15). It seems that those people who are first in the queue get on the flight, no matter if their ticket is reconfirmed or not.

Although the travel agencies stress the importance of reconfirming the tickets and sometimes even collect some extra money (10 US$ bribe or so) to "make sure you get on the flight", this doesn't seem to have any effect.

Every week people don't get on the flight and have to wait some days or try to make their way overland.

Also, I have heard that if you have bought your ticket through a Kathmandu travel agency, you cannot refund it if you miss the flight.

Therefore:

1. If you have a flight Lhasa->Kathmandu, take into consideration the risk that you may miss the flight.

2. If you book through a travel agency, make it clear in advance that you want your money back if you miss the flight and that the travel agency has to assist you in finding a solution to get to Kathmandu.

3. Don't believe a travel agent if he tells you that he can put you on the flight because he has "special connections" to some officials.

I think that it's best to put much pressure on travel agencies and on the Southwest China Airlines offices, so that they may develop the habit to sell only as much tickets as there are seats in the airplane, as any other reliable airline does.

But all this shall not stop you from going to Tibet. It's a wonderful country and its very impressing to see how most tibetans have gained their friendlyness and joyfulness even though fourty years of supression by the chinese.

Joachim


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