Your brother Bob and his wife Sue are visiting you in Hong Kong from Middleton, America, and they're dismayed to discover that they are not in China. You tell them, "Sorry, not yet. You can either stick around for another 485 days or we can hop on a train tomorrow. I would prefer the latter."

But where do you take them? You suspect that they are unlikely to appreciate the macabre subtlety of the puppy shop in Guangzhou's Qingping Market, so you look for an alternative. The city of Zhaoqing -- situated about 110 km west of Guangzhou -- is an enjoyable option to consider. This relatively unknown destination makes a fine three-day weekend without straying too far from home.

Zhaoqing's main tourist attraction is Seven Star Crags, a well-developed and landscaped park separated from the downtown area by a series of man-made lakes. The park's namesake is provided by the seven striking limestone peaks within it. An ambitious walker can climb at least one of these peaks for a remarkable view of the surrounding environs and the growing urban area across the water. The trails to the top and numerous picnic grounds are well built and maintained by state authorities.

While Zhaoqing's scenery falls short of the stunning beauty around the Guilin-Yangshuo region, the park's attractiveness still manages to hint at that more famous region just to the northwest. Besides the peaks, it also features several lakes dotted with traditional temples and pagodas. I had planned to rent a bike for the day to ride through the park, but Guanyin did not favor me. My Lonely Planet guide had promised me a choice of places to rent bikes, but neither my hotel nor anyone in town knew where you could do such a thing. Capitalism, it appears, is not spreading at the same rate throughout Guangdong.

Visiting in January, the park was not crowded. However, it struck me as the kind of place that would be wildly popular with Chinese families on vacation in warmer months. You may wish to investigate regarding the best time to visit.

I stayed in the Song Tao Hotel, one of three surprisingly upscale hotels right within the park. For two yuan, a creaking, chug-a-lug ferry makes a slow journey across the lake to the town every 1-1/2 hours or so. Not quite the TurboCat, but a very nice commute all the same. Grit your teeth and smile politely when other passengers throw trash into the clear waters. You can also rent peddleboats to explore the lake.

The Song Tao possessed an unexpected charm and featured comfortable rooms, a quiet courtyard, two restaurants (the Chinese restaurant is approximately 112 times better than the Western restaurant), a small bar, several gift shops, even a convention hall. The hotel also boasted the ever-present waterfall, karaoke bar, and "Scenic Lobby". Room rates varied, but hovered around HK360 for a double room with a lake view.

You cannot change money at the Song Tao, even HK dollars. The Huaqiao Hotel in the city can do that for you. Whatever you do, don't stay at the monstrous and modern Star Lake Hotel. Its only value is derived from being a very noticeable landmark in the city, similar to how a nuclear reactor calls attention to itself.

The highlight of visiting the city of Zhaoqing across the lake is a spectacular water fountain show at 8:00 pm each night, complete with multicolored lights and symphony music. It has the feel of a graceful water ballet crossed with a stirring Fourth of July celebration (what's water ballet?). Don't miss it.

For the most part, Zhaoqing is a typical provincial Chinese city in a state of rapid development. It is crowded, noisy, and its traffic patterns rival those of panicked electrons caught in an atom-smasher. On the bright side, the friendliness and curiosity of the locals welcomed the strange gwailos at every turn. I didn't see many other Westerners mucking about in these parts.

How do you get there? Pack Bob and Sue onto a direct train leaving from Kowloon Station. You could and should make all train/hotel reservations at China Travel Service. They can arrange everything for you at accurate prices, as well as provide that all-important PRC visa for those traveling on tourist passports. Don't fall victim to hubris or miserliness. I took KCR to Shenzhen and switched to a Chinese train there. The small savings is not worth the trouble and is wiped out by the waste of time at Shenzhen immigration.

Have a good trip with Bob and Sue; it beats having them hang around your kitchen for another 485 days. Besides, China is too close not to explore it.