Hi folks (c:
UKRAINE IS NOT FOR THE MEEK
A recent newspaper interview with a successfull Ukrainian
businessman confirmed that this opinion is shared by more than just
foreigners. This man has done business all over Europe, and when
asked his advice for doing business in Ukraine he said, "I'll
answer that differently. I'll say that if you can do business in
Ukraine, you can do it anywhere in the world because Ukraine is the
hardest place in the world to do business." Don't forget, this
man himself is Ukrainian.
Complaining or comparing life in NZ with life in Ukraine is very easy to do but
gets so depressing that I try not to do it at all. Occasionally
Ukrainians have commented that they felt I was putting them down in
my newsletters so I try not to do that, too, but <sigh>
sometimes...
~ the bread seller won't sell you the last loaf of bread because
she says it's "not fresh" ... yet she stays open, NOT
selling that last loaf of bread.
~ banks, shops, etc. close completely for "technical breaks",
lunches, etc. at various times on various days. Most places are
getting better at posting these hours, but not all. Sometimes a shop
assistant will ask you not to buy items from one particular wall
because she's just finished stock-take on that wall and you'll mess
up her figures.
~ you must come to the hospital between 8 and 9 am if you want a
blood test done for free, right on the dot of 9 its chargeable –
so the queue at 7:30 is a long one. Urine samples must be delivered
by 8 am or they're not acceptable. The hospital twice lost Vita's
blood tests but the second time Vita complained that it would be the
third round already so the nurse had a look on her desk and found
them immediately.
~ certain shops maintain a peculiar system where you get in a
queue to select the items you want to buy and find out their total
value, then you leave them (either on the shelf or with an
assistant) and go to the cashier where you get in a queue to pay and
get your receipt, then you get back in the first queue (or make your
own new queue if you have enough charisma) to pick up your items.
~ Ukrainian doctors seem very specialized so you have to see
several doctors per visit. Imagine: the first doctor checks your
shoulder and writes his diagnosis then he sends you to the next
doctor (on a different floor) who checks your elbow and adds his
diagnosis, then you go back to the original floor and right next
door to the first doctor (or maybe even the same room) and another
doctor checks your wrist. Maybe that's a little simplified, but
every time Vita's gone to the doctor she's seen at least three of
them. |
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And of course any one of those doctors
could have gone home for the day (most seem to finish work around 2 pm) so you
can't continue your pilgrimage till the next day. Sergei recently had to
confirm he's healthy to get a visa to Australia and had to see 8
different doctors!
~ phone lines regularly don't work at all, have tons of static, or
someone interrupts your conversation asking you to stop talking
because you are on "their line". Its great when one of
these fluke 4-way conversations happens to involve people you know.
Sometimes you're even lucky enough to get the radio playing over the
phone line – so loud that you compete with it. Also common is
to dial the EXACT right number (repeatedly!) and yet get connected
to a different number than you dialed...and not the same number, it
varies! You can get digital lines now, but they cost around $100 and
that's merely to switch you to the digital exchange in the post
office – it does nothing for the quality of the line you
already have running from the post office to your phone. If you want
them to replace that you pay another $400, but they'll only do it if
the 'conditions' are right.
~ if there is more than one front door to a business (commonly two
sets of double doors), one set is usually closed completely, always,
and of the other set, only one is open. Despite the queues, despite
the weather, you can't have too many doors open. We won't even get
into the subject of getting sick because of "sitting in a
draught", putting ice in drinks, not wearing a scarf, etc. A
couple of times one of the grandmothers living in our building
spotted me leaving without a hat while there was still snow on the
ground and she caught me by the arm and gave me a stern lecture. I
started sneaking in and out when I didn't want to wear a hat, hoping
she wouldn't be around. |
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Andrei,
a guy I recently spent time with discussing God and the Bible, used
to live with a group of students from Cuba as part of a language
exchange program under Communism: he was supposed to learn Spanish
and they Russian. He tried to refuse but was told that was his role
in life, so he decided to get revenge by playing the system and
ended up speaking Spanish fluently in 6 months while none of his
room-mates learnt Russian.
At a recent parent-teacher meeting the teacher told Andrei that their
son is top of the class. Andrei said this is because his son takes
extra lessons with the Australian girl, Tanya. The teacher said, "I
don't recommend that, Australians don't speak English properly and
your son will pick up bad habits."
Andrei's first son was born in Kaharlyk and the nurse dropped him but didn't
tell anyone so the doctor couldn't understand what was wrong and
took the wrong measures – the baby died when it was 2 days
old. Once Andrei found out what happened he decided next time
they'd go to a different hospital. He said he was young then and
scared (about 10 years ago) but if it happened now he would sue and
just make sure he paid the judge more than the opposition. So they
had their next son in Kyiv, his wife was alloted to the last room in
the corridor and completely ignored by the nurses – Andrei
brought her everything she needed (including feeding her) and
provided chocolates, flowers, and cognac for the doctors and nurses
as his wife |
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dictated but although the baby was born without any
hassles there was no 'nice' treatment. So for their third son,
since Andrei had 9 months warning and had an excellent job at the
time, he saved up US$500, found a doctor and told her that he would
give her $250 right now if she agreed and $250 after the baby was
born. For that money he expected them to treat his wife like a
queen and if there were any problems he would sue. The doctor
agreed, his wife was given the best room in the hospital, every
nurse was nice to her, they checked on her very regularly, put
flowers in her room, fed her very well, got someone in to massage
her, and every day (Andrei stayed in a hotel across the road) when
Andrei came to visit they put a white coat on him and conducted him
past all the other waiting husbands (normally husbands aren't even
allowed inside maternity hospitals – you wait in the waiting
room for your wife to come out to you but you have to stay on
opposite sides of a barrier and you only see your baby through a
window – oddly enough grandmothers and doctors are allowed
in), showed him his wife and asked if there was anything else he
wanted done. When the baby was born they showed him baby and mother
and the doctor asked if he was happy, he gave her the money and they
continued to look after his wife for another couple of days, then
they went home content.
His advice is that I buy the same services. |
We
went to Rokitne in March to see if they would take Vita because we'd
heard the doctors had good reputations, and when we got there other
people confirmed that they are excellent doctors, but the doctor
himself refused to take anyone from Kaharlyk because in the past more
and more people were coming from Kaharlyk to get normal treatment and
there was a regional scandal and now he won't even take a bribe –
he just doesn't want any problems. He said he needs a note from the
head doctor in Kaharlyk but the head doctor here won't do that, so we
gave up and Vita went in to the Kaharlyk hospital and announced she's
pregnant. The nurse told her she should have come in January and
then she would have been automatically put on a government benefit
but its too late now – we're pretty sure it makes no difference
when you go, somebody just wanted an excuse to keep Vita's money.
Apparently they want me to come in and have my chest x-rayed and give
blood to prove I'm a healthy father (locking the gate after the horse
has bolted in a sense). And everywhere she goes, Vita gets hassled
about her surname – she was somewhat comforted when I told her
that no one in NZ can spell it properly either. They all want to
know where her husband is from and where on earth she found him.
Family
and friends took the opportunity to send a package of baby stuff with
my parents to our wedding and although I knew about the package, I
didn't know what was inside. I had kept it hidden from Vita for 9
months, but with only three months to go till the baby arrives I
thought it a good time to have our own little baby shower. Vita was
a little surprised to see the clothes – here babies
traditionally aren't 'dressed' for the first few months, instead
they're wrapped up "like a burrito" as one American friend
put it.
We
took 54 people to the church conference at the beginning of May,
eight of whom got baptised, and best of all:
one of them was
Vita! There were over 700 people there and for me it was a great
opportunity to chat with guys who've been pastors for years and pick
up advice on the things they've already struggled through themsleves.
It was amazing to find a guy called Steve from
Dunedin
who'd been street-preaching in Kyiv for a month. I was stretched
somewhat during that time by being called up the front to pray for
people, and at first I was scared I'd look stupid if 'nothing
happened', but God reminded me that its my role simply to pray.
The
meals were catered by the camp cafeteria and local staff so we had
some interesting Ukrainian food: porridge (milk with a few saltanas
and oats swimming in it) and beetroot salad for breakfast; fish
marinated in brine and served with raw onion for lunch. Another
interesting dish was a Ukrainian version of cheesecake. It was made
of macaroni mixed with tvarog (cottage cheese) with a dollop of jam
on top, then refrigerated before being served. Cold macaroni seems
off-putting, but it was good enough for me to get seconds, and even
take a third piece back to our room for later.
A couple of days after returning from the conference
we found that the hospital had been trying to get hold of Vita because they weren't
happy with the results of tests they had done earlier. Vita dropped
in to see them while I packed our bags so we could leave immediately
for our last 'free' one-week holiday (free from children) before
Vita's final session and exams were due to start. Some time later
Vita returned to say that they want her to go to hospital and she's
not to travel under any circumstances. We lost some money on the
tickets we'd already bought, but it seemed wisest to trust the
doctors.
So for a week Vita lived in the
hospital. I wrote to quite a few of you during that time about how scary that experience was,
and about their strange hospital rules.
For example Vita wasn't allowed in with a backpack – she had to
transfer everything to a plastic bag, because who ever heard of
someone going to hospital with a backpack?
I wasn't allowed in the building and Vita wasn't allowed out –
for fear of spreading infection. The nurses and doctors and cleaners
wandered in and out as they pleased, an electrician was dragging a
ladder round inside dressed in his dirty overalls, Vita's Mum brought
food to Vita every day which wasn't checked at all, Vita saw them
washing dishes without soap or hot water – but Vita and I
weren't allowed contact.
Probably
the hardest thing Vita had to face was the lack of privacy and any
attempt at trying to maintain one's privacy was laughed at by the
nurses; as she got to know some of the other women she found they
were struggling with the same things.
The answer to all questions was: "That's the way we've always done
it." I overheard some older women discussing the strange new
idea of putting the baby in the same room as the mother immediately
after its born – they were pretty dubious about it and once
again I heard, "That's not how we did it."
After seven days they began to drive us crazy by saying every day
that they'll probably let her go now, but either the doctor just
never turned up or they came up with some other such vague reason.
On the morning of day ten they said they're not happy because the
baby is head-down and could drop out at any minute (I can't believe
how stupid that sounds, but that's what they said) so they want to
keep Vita for the whole 2 months.
There
are subtle reasons behind this, we don't know how true it is, but Vita's room-mate said
that the more people they have in their rooms, the more money they get at
the end of each year, so they'll come up with anything to keep people
there. Other people have been told by the doctor that if they don't
slip him a little something then he won't let them go home.
Then they sent Vita out for an uzi (ultrasound) and I just happened to be
there so we went together (its in another building – so much
for their 'anti-infection' campaign) and the uzi doctor said all's
well. Then Vita got in the queue to stand on the scales and while we
waited she read everything they wrote about her over the last 10 days
and there's NOTHING wrong!!! At least, nothing that they've written.
They even wrote that she has a healthy appetite and sleeps soundly,
both of which were untrue. On the scales she found she'd lost almost
a kg while in hospital.
I was feeling pretty upset and frustrated and wondering if I should
hire Rambo or round up a bunch of friends like Ura (almost 2 metres
tall, weighs 125 kgs) and storm the building and get Vita out of
there, so as I walked down to the office I prayed and praised God a
bit and put it all in His hands. Good thing too, when I got there
Vita rang and said that they've told her she can go home now, but
they were still fluffing around so she decided not to wait for the
doctor to give her the stamp because again it could take 24 hrs, she
just left her medical booklets and papers (such a communist system)
at the hospital for her Mum to sort out the next day.
I got on a train recently and said one word to the
conductor and when she'd gone the guy sitting across from me asked if I was a foreigner.
Sometimes I get a little depressed that my accent on just one word
causes me to stand out like a sore thumb, but as I've been asking the
Lord for boldness He's been helping me realize that I can use my
'foreigness' as a tool, instead of being embarrassed about it. Not
long ago I hitched a ride with a guy and immediately started looking
for some way of getting a conversation going. I asked him if his
special antenna made any real difference, and after answering my
question he asked about my accent and then the inevitable question,
"Why are you here?" He's an athiest who believes in God
(that's how he described it) so for the next hour we talked about
whether or not Jesus actually rose from the dead, and I even stayed
an extra 20 min in his car instead of getting out at my normal stop.
I've never been so open and looking for trouble before – I can
only praise God for working in me.
Here's something for you to think about. Perhaps you hadn't realized just
how connected the world is. Most people have heard of internet chat
where you can talk to anyone in the world but usually not more than
10 or 20 people at a time: recently I tried a game on the net which
15,000 other people were playing at the same time. One person
walked past me who's name had NZ in it so I asked if she was from NZ
and she replied, "What's NZ? I'm from Norway." As you
wander round the game seeking your fortune, you come across people
speaking Spanish, French, German, and other languages that work with
the latin alphabet, not to mention English-speakers from all over the
world. How much more connected can it get?
Wayne's back! He came back in a whirlwind of fresh ideas and plans and the
place is humming. He keeps saying, "Don't think you can relax
now that I'm back." We're alternating Sundays preaching, and
he's off-loading onto me anything else he can. Sergei and Tanya are
now in Australia so I'm taking Sergei's home group and Oles has moved
up a step to take mine. As I produce this newsletter I'm also
planning a summer program of computer lessons for children which will
certainly keep me out of mischief. I also have a bunch of texts,
articles, and booklets to translate for general church use and Bible
courses to proof-read so they can be translated, as well as trying to
make our apartment as comfortable as possible for Vita and the
arrival of our baby (about 6 weeks away). In between all that, one
of Wayne's plans is to start a regular Bible class (probably 20 hours
a week) so I'm looking into topics and course materials.
If any of you have some advice or thoughts on how to run an informal
Bible college then I'd appreciate hearing from you.
We asked our landlords if they would kindly unlock the
third room in their apartment so we can put the baby in there (there's no space in
our bedroom for a cot) but the landlords said they've got nowhere to
put the stuff in that room and suggested we find somewhere else to
live. Conveniently, praise God, Sergei and Tanya left at the end of
the May so we moved into their apartment, and they have HOT RUNNING
WATER!!!!! Also no telephone. It will be a blessing indeed (but
eventually I guess I'll have to get a mobile). The only potential
problems are that our new landlords are talking about selling and its
a very cold apartment in winter.
The funny side is that Vita's mother asked us why we didn't tell her
we're going to NZ next week: people in the town have been telling her
that we're leaving our apartment because we're off overseas. Every
now and again some babushka comes up to us and says, "Sorry to
see you go, but I hope you have a great time in NZ." The last
one to say this, who lived under us and had to go out on our balcony
to adjust her TV aerial, was surprised when Vita said, "We're
not leaving Kaharlyk." She replied, "That's right, who'd
want to go to NZ anyway? Good decision." I love these
grandmothers. News on the neighbourhood grapevine seems to travel
faster than on the internet.
Last night, intending to pay Vita a compliment,
I called her "
choodovishche". I had a vague idea in my mind of
two different words, one being Ukrainian for 'miraculous' (
choodova)
and the other Russian for 'treasure' (
sakrovishche), but didn't
stop to work out exactly which word I wanted to use and thought I was
pretty safe anyway even if I mixed the words 'cause she'd get the
idea. I had no idea that
choodovishche actually means
'monster'. So, new word in my vocabulary, and I think Vita's still
laughing.
Enjoy Winter!
Gareth & Vita