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| While I was
working with Arkitek Urbanisma, I become close to Muzammil, my junior colleague
from Institut Teknologi MARA (ITM). He went to further his study in Oxford
Brooks University in UK. When he was travelling in Europe, he always sends
me postcards from different destinations. He never forgets to mention that
he wishes that I were there with him to share the experience that he had
during all his travelling.
While I was working, before I continue my study, I had saved some money. I bought a motorbike (Honda EX-5), and planned to buy a new computer. I had already owned an ancient model, 286 DX or something, with black and white screen, which hardly suitable for CAD software. On the other hand, my brother Rosdan had already bought one computer. Since he is staying in Taman Tun, which is only 30 minutes' drive (on my new motorbike) from my house in Shah Alam, it was really convenience for me to use the computer. So I used the money that I saved to finance my travel. |
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I don't really
quite remember when was I actually decided to really pursue the idea of
going to Europe. I guessed it just pops out during one of my conversation
with Majid, my ex MRSM friend who was working with a travel agency. He
was telling me about a recent trip that he went to while working as a tour
organizer for a group of tourist to Paris and London. Immediately I asked
him if it's possible for him to find me a reasonable (means affordable!)
arrangement for my flight to London. Although he normally did not do that
kind of thing, he says he'll try to check it out for me.
A few days latter I called him and he inform me about his findings. He recommended me to take the Royal Jordanian Airline. Besides the fare being reasonable (more so with his help), I was also told that I don't have to worry about the food since they serve 'halal' food. The only problem is that I had to transit in Amman for about 8 hours on the way to London and 6 hours on the way back. I told him that I would like to visit Amman as well. He recommended to me to take the 3 days Royal Jordanian Tour package that will include accommodation, food and tour in Jordan. And a few days latter, I was on my way! |
| On the day of departure, there were many people at the airport (I felt as if I was going to Mecca!). Besides my family, there were also my friends Farid, Nazeri and Shukri. Farid want me to send something to his fiancé Mastura who is also a student in Oxford. My flight was at 1.00am. After saying goodbye to everybody, I checked into the airport about 2 hours before departure. |
| This was my second time travelling on an aeroplane and the first time alone. While waiting to board the plane, I kept myself busy by reading the brochure provided by the airline that I collected at the airline office in the afternoon. I was really exited of going to Petra (see photo), although I only knew a little about this place. The site was made famous by the movie `Indiana Jones and The Last Crusades'. I'm sure Steven Speilberg chooses this place for the site of his movie for a reason. |
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Royal Jordanian
Airline is very strict with its security procedure. Even after we went
through normal security check by the airport personnel, we had to go through
another check by Jordanian's official before boarding the plane right at
the doorstep. Although it causes a lot of inconvenience, I feel that it
was necessary to avoid any unwanted incident to happen on board, especially
since Subang had a very questionable security history. Well, with the frequent
'fire broke out,' trespassers, the infamous theft of Bank Negara gold bullion
and all that.
I was seated at a window seat. The flight was not crowded and there was ample space for some passengers to stretch themselves into a comfortable sleep. Nobody was seating beside me and I didn't see anybody friendly enough to start a conversation. I do noticed two tired looking Japanese girls in their early twenties seating in front of me. There was also a man spotting a Bob Marley look trying to strike a conversation with the Japanese girls. They seem to have met before although the girls seem to have big problem with their English. I found out latter that the girls names are Michiko (above) and Tomoko. We become travel mate and send postcards to each other when we went on our separate ways. |
| Dinner was delicious and the in-flight movie was entertaining. It was 'Intersection' starring Richard Gere as an architect and Sharon Stone as his wife. The rest of the night I continue reading the brochure and try to read the in-flight magazine. The selection of songs available on the radio was not attractive to my ear, so I listen to the Quran recital on one of the channel before drifting to sleep. I woke up several times during the night before the flight attendance announced for breakfast to be served. I do not really know what time we landed at Queen Alia International Airport. |
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I don't know
what to expect when I stepped out of the plane. The first thing that I
noticed was the temperature. It was cold. Very cold morning! The airport
was not well lit. At least not as bright as Subang Airport. There were
no shops in sight, and not many people around except the one that was coming
out from the flight I'm on. I don't know which direction to follow since
I don't understand the signboards. One direction says 'Transit' and the
other 'Visa.' I saw many Malaysians headings for the 'Visa' counter, so
I follow suit. I had light conversation with some of them and learned that
they were studying in Jordan. I try to read the signboard to find out how
much I had to pay for my visa. They had different rate for citizen of different
country. It was hopeless. So I just went to the money changer counter and
change US$20. To my surprise, I only received less then 20 Jordan Dinner.
Latter I was to find out that Jordan currencies are almost equivalent to
British Pound.
We (John, Michiko, Tomoko and me) become quite close, considering none of us know each other prior to the journey. Even Ahmet the taxi driver also become our friend. Although things become quite complicated sometimes, because only John and myself can speak English properly. Sign language rule the day! |
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After a long
wait (seems like forever), finally it was my turn at the counter. Luckily
the officer spoke English. He made it clear to me that I was at the wrong
counter and told me to go to the 'transit' counter because I was only on
a 'less than 4 days' transit in Amman so I don't need a visa. He was kind
enough to ask one of the other officers to show me the direction. This
officer was also showing a group of confuse Indonesian the way to the transit
counter. We had to cross over to the other side of the airport. But when
we arrive at the counter nobody was there. I had to look and asked around
but nobody seems to know the right direction to go. I went back to the
first counter and the officer insists that I went back to the second counter.
At this moment I saw that the two Japanese girls were also having problem.
They when to the 'transit' counter but was told that they need a visa for
their stay in Jordan. So the officer at the transit counter was showing
them the 'visa counter'. So I follow the officer back to the transit counter
and (finally) collected my boarding pass for my flight to London.
(if you were confused reading this, you can imagine how I feel at that
time!)
I had never seen a desert before. So when the taxi stop for fuel, I ask the girls who was themselves busy snapping photographs, to take my photo. And I never ride on a horse too. However look at me! Don't I look like a desert warrior or something. Complete with the headgear and all. |
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The waiting
area of the arrival hall was almost deserted when I come out of the airport.
Most of the passenger on transit had already left with the bus. There was
a Caucasian gentleman seated at one of the seat. We get to know each other
and I found out that he is from Canada, and was teaching in one of the
private college in Kuala Lumpur. He was on his way back after his contract
with the college in Kuala Lumpur expires. He took the opportunity to visit
his daughter in London and on the way took the transit in Jordan also.
He planned to go scuba diving in Aqaba coast in the Red Sea.
The shuttle bus arrives 20 minutes latter. It took another 20 minutes before we reach our Hotel – Alia Hotel. The hotel is situated in the middle of the desert. I was given a room on the third floor. I was met with the tour agent at the lobby and passed him the envelope that was given to me by the agent in Malaysia. He informs me that there will be some changes on the tour itinerary. We will be going to Petra on the first day instead of the second day. I was told to be at the reception area at 10.00am. After freashing up, I went down for my breakfast and proceed to wait at the lobby. I found out latter that there will only be four of us going to Petra that day. John, the two Japanese girls and myself. We were all put in a taxi and off we go crossing Jordanian desert. It was a unique experience for me. We passed through miles and miles of arid land. There was hardly any tree either planted or grows naturally. The 2 Japanese girl was very exited too. When we stop for gas, the 2 girls was posing and snapping photograph with the desert as the background. They introduce themselves to me. Their names are Michiko and Tomoko. They told me that they never encounter such a panorama before. Entering the valley. My heart was pounding hard!
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About 2 hours
latter we reach a village where we stop for souvenir. I bought a hookah,
a headgear which I wore for the rest of the journey. By this time, we had
become close with each other. We took turns taking photograph. We were
serve with Jordanian tea (in a very small, no, I mean tiny little copper
cups) by the shops owner. I am very cautious when looking at the prices
of the souvenir item. My mind had to stretch a lot doing mathematical conversion
of things. I end up buying the traditional Arab headgear and put it on
immediately.
Finally we reach our destination. There were already a number of other visitors at the tourist information centre at the entrance of the valley. There is no proper road going to the site. Everybody had to either walk, ride on a horse back or take a horse carriage. I choose the horse ride. This was my first experience mounting a horse. I don't think I did badly thought, judging from the cool respond of the horse. Of course there are these guides to guide the horse (all the way). The journey starts slowly and the scenery become beautiful. Well actually at this point I'm a bit tired of typing all the 'too descriptive' observation. So, for the time being I just let you all enjoy the photo. I will fill up the story behind it latter. So keep visiting this page! |
| I did not plan to go to anywhere accept Oxford. I really did not have any specific plan either on what to do while in the United Kingdom. Things just happen as it was and I'm very glad that it turns out to be such a memorable experience. I arrive in Heathrow airport, London at about 8.00am local time. I scrutinize the airport architecture. Hmmm. Nothing special to note. It's definitely very big. I had to walk quite a bit before finally arriving at the immigration check point. I was very calm and compose as if I know where to go, what to expect etc. I even surprise myself sometimes! |
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However
I do encounter small problem when I was at the immigration counter. The
officer seems eager to spoil my trip. He begins by asking a lot of provocative
questions. Initially I though it was routine questions. On the other hand,
when he left his table with my passport to confide with the other officers
while showing my passport around, I began to feel intimidated. He ask me
details about my planned trip and keep repeating the same question (maybe
to check on the consistency of my answer!). With whom I planned to stay
and for how long. I showed him my returned ticket. I show him the travellers
cheque that I had brought along. I gave him Muzammil's address. He seems
not convinced when I explain to him that I'm a student, visiting a friend
during school holiday and definitely not interested in overstaying. Finally
(after about half an hour) he let me go.
After picking up my luggage I met with Muzammil who was waiting for me at the arrival hall. When I mention to him about the small problem I encounter at the immigration counter, he offer me an explanation. At that particular time, Malaysia was having a diplomatic row with The United Kingdom and the issue were played out in the media. It was about a policy of 'buy British last' announced by the Prime Minister when Malaysia was accused of accepting bribes from British firms in order for them to secure military contracts. That might influence some of the officer to take certain action on Malaysian as a whole. We
talk about it on the bus. I sometimes become a bit emotional when Muzammil
mention of some incidents (like letter not delivered to them) that happened
to them because of the diplomatic rows.. Few times Muzammil had to cautious
me to low my voice because it might offended the other passengers!
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I
went to London from Oxford with Ida on a bus. We took the tube and stop
at Marble Arch station. From there, we just walk. We visited London Natural
History museum, The Trafalgar Square, walk along the river Thames until
we reach the Parliament Building and The Big Ben. We took the tube to go
to Bond Street, so I can confirm my ticket. After that we walk to the Piccadilly
Circus, Trafalgar Square and the Royal Albert Hall. Then we went to The
Waterloo Station to take a train to Steadford to visit Ida's sister.
I was a bit disappointed with London actually. It did not appeal to me as I had expected. The streets are dirty (at least to me). The architecture is nothing to shout about. The classical building become monotonous sometimes. The people are un friendly (well, I did expect this though) However I do like The Natural History museum. The interior of the building surprises me. I attributed this to the fact that I went to Oxford first before visiting London and I tend to compare both cities. Oxford is of course very beautiful. Clean, fresh, and really what I had anticipated ... and more. |
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I
arrived in Oxford at about 11.00am. It is beautiful. Oxford did not deviate
so much from the way I imagine it should be. From the bus station, we walk
to take a bus to The Slade where Muzammil stays. Muzammil share the house
with Ida, Zaidi and a Malaysian couple and their daughter (don't ask me
their names; I don't remember!). Zaidi was out so I spend my afternoon
talking to Ida and Lili. I still had not adjusted to the cold English weather.
All of them laugh at me when they saw me wearing thick sweater (it was
summer) even in the house!
Muzammil's room. Lili myself and Muzammil (just
woke up) The other people in the room were Zaidi and Obli sitting in front
of the computer.
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| I
saw Embong and Zaidi from the bus on the way to The Slade. I did not know
them well when they were studying in ITM. However after just a short meeting,
we become very close. In fact I spend most of my time with Embong and Zaidi
rather than Muzammil. He was busy with his final project. Words get around
fast that someone from Malaysia come for a visit. Soon, almost every Malaysian
in Oxford come to see me and ask me about Malaysia and ITM. Oxford had
a large community of ex ITM student doing their Diploma (equivalent to
1st degree) and Masters . Sometimes we fondly refers Oxford Brooks University
as ITM Oxford Branch.
Since Muzammil was busy with his project, the other Malaysian took turns to show me around Oxford. First Mastura, Ida and Lili took me shopping. The next day, Zaidi shows me around the city's colleges. After that, Embong brought me to the river and country side. |
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I went to Bristol with Zaidi. I don't know why we choose to visit this
town. There is nothing special here. However, we went there on a day trip
by bus. The drive there were pretty interesting. We passed through beautiful
country sides and town like Bath.
We walk around, took photograph and talk(?). The highlight of the trip is the suspension bridge (I can't remember the name of the bridge though) and the light house on a hill overlooking the city and a deep valley. The view from the bridge is breathtaking. We did had an adventure though. Several time we took the wrong city bus. The bus drivers were very helpful to the extend of calling their colleague on the... phone? walkie-talkie? Whatever you call those communication devices on the bus..., to make sure the next bus will pick us up and bring us back to the city centre. Bristol town centre, Bristol University, A monument in the suburb and The Bridge. |
| Besides the Architecture School, the other department in Oxford Brooks had already closed for the Summer holiday. The University organized trips and excursions for the foreign students (who stays around). One of the trip was to the Isle of White. Muzammil's friend (the one that I don't remember his name) had a ticket but change his mind about going. So he gave it to me. |
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I don't know anybody on the bus (obviously). However, it's very easy
for me to get to know the other Malaysians, Singaporean and Indonesians
on the bus (about 9 of them). The ferry ride across the English channel
were interesting. The island itself is not. One of the stop is the beach
area where a lot of people were sun bathing. For me, I did not consider
it as a beach at all. It's just sea water... meets land!
Of course the other foreign students seems to enjoy themselves (especially the Europeans). They also enjoy the stop to a bowling alley (?). Well, maybe because there was no bowling alley in Oxford. I like the traditional English village we visited with it's narrow streets, cottages and church tower. There is also a 'miniature' versions of it (see photo). So cute. |
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I did not plan to go to Paris. However I saw the French Embassy building
on my way into London Natural History Museum. Ida casually told me that
if I want to go to Paris, I had to apply for a visa at the embassy. So
I went into the building and an hour latter come out with a visa stamp
on my passport!
When I went back to Oxford, I told Embong and Zaidi about my decision to go to Paris. They were so excited as if they were the one who's going. They start giving me tips and names of places that I should visit. Embong when to the School Library and borrow for me an 'Architect's Guide to Paris' and ' Paris on a shoe string'. He wrote down the names of the youth hostels and contingency plan if the one that he gave me were full. Champs de Alyesse, in front of the Arch de Triumph. |
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Zaidi went with me to the bus station to buy the ticket. He recommended
me to take the London -Paris-Amsterdam-Brussels open ticket. After that
we went shopping for food for me to bring on my trip because according
to Zaidi it will be difficult for me to find halal food in Paris. Or if
there is, it will be too expensive.
The next day, I took a bus to London with Embong. My bus to Paris depart in the evening around 10.00pm. The ferry ride across the English Channel was interesting. I did not sleep at all, exploring the ferry duty free shops and the deck area until we reach Calais. I reach Paris very early in the morning, around 5.00am. The bus station is on the outskirts of the city. I follow exactly what Embong had taught me. First, I went to buy the 3 day visitors' pass, so that I can use all the city transportation without having to check the fare first. It was not as difficult as I had anticipated. I have heard stories about French people refusing to speak other than French. Well, I did not encounter such problem. Maybe the tips given by Embong works. It goes like this. Never start an enquiry using English but your native language, in my case, Malay. Let the other party start using English first! |
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However, both the hostels recommended by Embong were full. The receptionist
at the second hostel provided me with 3 other hostels phone number. I manage
to book a place in one of them but failed to locate the address (imagine
trying to read Paris map). Finally I went to the tourist information centre
located at Champs de Ellyase and manage to book a place.
Visiting Paris for me was an adventure. My opinion is that whoever you are and wherever you are in Paris, you cannot avoid being struck by civic order and a feeling of care and joyful celebration in everything visual. There are no denying that the French had equated culture with architecture and has a strong political commitment to planning, landscape and physical appearance of towns and cities. These were clearly evidence during my short visit to this city of romance. The first day, I went to visit all the famous Paris landmarks along the main city axis, starting from Arch de la Defance. Sometimes using the underground train, sometimes walking. I walk from The Cleopatra Needle to The Louvre. Second day was spend exploring the city further. Eiffel Tower, The Notre Dame, Arch de Triumph etc. I spend most of my time at Pompidou Centre, writing postcards to friends and people watching. Third day was spent at Parc de la Villete. |
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| Parc de la Villette combine images and tactics from the 20's and 60's.
The series of red buildings called `follies' are meant to signify at once
the British `folly' in the 18th century garden and the French notion of
`madness'. This conjunction of irrationalities, has a certain mad logic
to it since it replaces part of the 60 million dollar meat market that
was recently built but then never used, a mega-folly. And when President
Mitterand had to announce that the winning competition design consisted
of more follies, with a price in the multi-millions, French people suddenly
woke up to the era of built Deconstruction.
The park plan makes a fresh combination of formula that are acknowledge as historical: the layering of three systems-points, lines and surfaces. The dislocations of red dots, green lines and cinematic swirls that float on an abstract grey and black background, are the representation of `any city.' It is an abstraction of social reality, an attempt to make high art from the heterogeneous fragmentation that surround any major city, in particularly Paris. Parc de la Villette have over 30 follies: fire-engine red construction of enamelled steel, located every 120m on a grid. Theirs used varies, combining hedonistic and educational activities. Baths, cinema, restaurant, health club, music and science centres are set amongst a host of small gardens. These will be connected by a three kilometre randomly snaking gallery which Tschumi calls the `cinematic promenade' because it is a montage of images with a layout of an unrolled filmstrip. The layout favour chance and coincidence, the incongruities and discontinuities that result when three different systems are layered randomly and at angles to each other. La Villette looks out on new social and historical circumstances: a dispersed and differentiated reality that marks an end to the utopia of unity. "I would say that La Villette is not about the way things should happen
in the future, but the way things are now today. There are no utopias today."
What will happen at La Villette remains: to be seen... My first impression of Parc de La Villette was ...breathtaking (actually this implies on nearly everything in Paris). The Musee Des Sciences by Adrian Fainsilber was impressive with giant glass boxes by Buro Happold. From the bridge that connected the building with `La Geode' (Omnimax movie theatre) I observe for the first time a park that is "able to adapt and change with the people who use it "(as addressed by Tschumi). The brightly painted red `follies' seems to be scattered all over the 123-acre park. So striking are these objects that they dominate whatever natural elements existing on the site. The other striking element is the main movement axis with it's engineered acrobatic pylons supporting continuos undulating corrugated roof (engineered by Peter Rice). There is no denying that the combinations of a strong horizontal element with stylistic structural supports result in a rather elegant abstract sculpture of some kind when brightly and imaginatively painted. |
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I walked the whole length of the 3 km (or so) spine gallery and visited
nearly all of the follies. Parisian and tourist alike, seems to enjoy the
built environment around the park and interpret the built structures according
to their liking. It seems as the unprogrammed activities are compatible
with the constant transformation of urban life. It is obvious that La Villette
breaks new stylistic ground in park design.
The success of the park is yet to be seen. Walking along the cinematic
promenade and at the same time watching Parisian and tourist alike adapting
themselves around the built structure make me realize a little about what
Tschumi means by 'interpretative infinity'. Each observer will form his
own interpretation of meaning of the structure in the park.
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| Phew! Serious stuff, right? I wrote this actually as part of the supporting
article for my thesis. I guess I should include references I made.
REFERENCES. 1. AD Vol. 58 3/4 --1988 -- Deconstruction in Architecture.
Article by Charles Jenks, Andrew Benjamins & Bernard Tschumi.
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After spending 3 nights in Paris, I continue my journey on a bus to
Amsterdam. I reach the outskirts of Amsterdam very early in the morning.
Initially, I thought I had reach the city centre and went out of the station
trying to look for the Tourist Information Centre (with a map of Amsterdam
as a reference). After an hour latter and a few kilometres walk around
the suburb (inhabitat by Arab migrant, I assume), I realize that I had
yet to reach the city centre. Duhh! I had to take a train to reach the
city centre from the bus station.
In the background is the Amsteel train station in the city centre. I stayed in a youth hostel called 'The Flying Pig'. I commute to the city centre using the train. There are certainly a
lot of things to talk about the city. When I had the time, I will write
more and post more photo here. You surely want to know about the 'red light
district' and the sex museum, right? |
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I went to Brussels, Belgium from Amsterdam as the last stop of my European
tour before heading back to England. I stayed two nights in a bread and
breakfast hostel. The hostel was very clean and decent compare to the other
youth hostels that I had stayed in Paris and Amsterdam. The rental also
was reasonable. However the city itself is not as memorable as Paris and
Amsterdam. I guess it's just a typical modern European city. I spend my
time there walking around the city. I also join a 'tour on foot' around
the historical city precinct and saw the famous 'miniken piss' (pissing
miniature), the symbol of the city.
The photo was taken in front of the Atom monument. It was the entrance to 'Mini Europe', a theme park situated at the outskirts of the city. I met two Malaysian students visiting the place and they took this photo. From Brussels I took the bus back to London and than back to Oxford. |
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muluk@ppp.nasionet.net