Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999

       Sba' alkhir (It's morning here) Ramadan has begun. The Muslim month of fasting from dawn 'till dusk. Just as I was getting used to the schedule of things... They up and change it all......Oh well.

       The stores are closed all day, the Post office has odd hours, everything comes to a grinding halt on Friday afternoons, for prayer. Every evening though.

       It's party time!!!! People eat F'tor (breakfast) around 5:30 (sundown) and then pile into the streets to hang out, cause a ruckus, sing, etc. Then they continue eating all night long. Special foods are eaten all during Ramadan. Pastilla, which is great, a HUGE multilayered pastry around these skinny noodles and vegetables along with some meat, either chicken or beef, but usually seafood, and set on top of this sweet, sugary, cinnamon stuff Mmmmm Mmmmm. They also serve alot of Herrera, a thick soup, also spicy and tasty. Of course there's Sh'bekia, a sweet, spicy, loaded with honey, pastry that Steph and I have acquired a habit of buying all the time. They are VERY rich, but irresistable.

       As you can tell, food is a major part of the culture here. As I find out more of the special foods for Ramadan (and sample them, of course) I'll let you know! I've been attempting cooking some of them myself, so far I've got Loubia (a bean dish) and tajine (can't explain it) down, the Ramadan foods are a bit more complicated to cook, and certainly more time consuming, but I'll don my apron and give it my best shot. The kids here can't believe I, a grown, unmarried man, cook.....Amazing!!!!

       I had my Moroccan debut this week. The students had a benefit for the Terres des Hommes, an orphanage near the university. They brought them over here this Tuesday and had McDonalds, raised money, gave them gifts, toys, and put on a show for them and the student body, as well as local bigwigs and school administration were in attendance. Luckily, there was a two day strike by the teachers, so they could come too. I don't know the details on that issue, 'cuz I wasn't told about it....more later.

       Last Monday, a group of organizers asked me if I would play guitar for them in the show. Joining a group of students that had a band, as well as playing a few solo tunes. They knew I played.....Apparently word gets around quick here about the freaky American Teacher. I agreed, how could I refuse 10 smiling, giggling 20 year old girls?????? I got together twice with these two guitar players and a couple of singers and a drummer, and we practiced a few tunes. When the big day arrived (this Tuesday) We played "Let it Be" by the Beatles, a Traci Chapman song, and a few Arabic folk songs. I was then asked to play a few of my own compositions. The students were going nuts, I felt like a rock star (without the talent....or the money). It was alot of fun and it looks as though I made a few friends with the musicians, and we'll continue to play together.

       I've also befriended the husband of my neighbor's French tutor (my neighbor is Monique, another PC volunteer)The husband's name is Samir. He does wave skimming and has a friend who sells boards. Apparently, he not only has longboards, but evolutions as well!!! *for those who don't know, that's a board that is between the length of a short board and a longboard, about 7'6"-8' or so* I am so excited, as this is exactly what I was looking for. Not only that, but Samir also has.......(drumroll)..... A CAR!!!!!! Whoohoo!!!! It is extremely difficult to get around to the surf spots using public transit. Add into the equation the undisputable fact that I'm a forenji(foreigner), carrying a huge board and generally being a nuisance (apparently) and it really detracts from the whole surf experience. Samir says he'd be happy to take me around to all his favorite spots on the weekends....Well, if he really wants to, I guess I shouldn't stop him.....Cultural exchange, right?).

       It appears that the phone will be installed either today or Monday..... So save up your pennies!!!!!( Make that nickels)

       Steph and I are planning a trip to the mountains near Marrakesh. A place called Setti Fatima and Okeimdon. They have skiing there, so I assume that means snow. We're hoping to have a white New Years. We'll be spending Christmas at my apartment.

       I taught my students about Christmas (goes over well in a Muslim country). Actually, all joking aside, I told them about the christmas tree decorating tradition, de-emphasizing the religious aspect. My students, at least, told me that Muslims are extremely tollerant of other religions. At least ones with a book, one god, and prophets. Essentially Christianity and Judaism are seen as acceptable. As a project, I had them create their own ornaments. Decorating them with symbols about themselves and/or things they loved. They then got up in front of the class and explained; talked about their ornaments. It went over great, and afterwards, I took the ornaments home, and with Steph, we decorated one of my houseplants, complete with a star made out of tinfoil. Who says you can't have Christmas in a Muslim country???

       Well, That's it for now, hope everything is well on the other side of the pond.

m'a ssalama (with peace) thella frahsek (take care of yourself),
Fritz

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