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Phuket--Thailand | ||||||||||||||||
Chinese Lunar New Year usually
occurs between January and February. The holiday is a huge celebration
and China usually shuts down for a week. Singapore had
two official days off and Motorola gave us 3. Needless to say, we don't like crowds or shopping, two of the biggest New Year activities, so we bolted for Thailand. Phuket Island is a tourist trap. Expensive and full of travelers looking for a small part of the beach to stake a claim. So, we found a small island about 15km South, called Raicha Rai, which offered diving and indescribably beautiful beaches, and booked a chalet. Because we were arriving late at night, we needed to find a place on the main island for that first night. Due to the holiday, there weren't many places left on Phuket, so we booked the last room available in a hostel recommended by some friends. We arrived to find the room in the hostel to be right on the street. There was a small wooden thatched window shutter to keep people from climbing into the room with us. The hotel had kindly put a large bench in front of our window on the street, so that every loud drunk group of people could have a nice spot to sit and chat. It was so loud we could only laugh in-between cursing that damn bench. What can you expect for $5 a night? To be fair to our friends the place had some nice rooms by the garden that was really cool, but all they were all full. After staying in the budget room, it was clear why it was the only vacant one. |
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Following dinner at a place that
had Sherrell salivating over their Tom Ka Guy soup (she talked about it for days!!) and
excellent Pad Thai, we planned our escape to the outer
islands. Early the next day, we caught a taxi down to the jetti where we bargained for a boat ride to Raicha Rai: 1 1/2 hour ride by long boat was about 1700 batt ($42). Soon we were underway plying through the clear waters of the Andaman Sea heading south of Phuket Island. |
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When our long boat pulled into the
little rocky bay, we were dying to jump in the clear
water. The turquois color was mesmerizing and the
visability was over 40 feet. We quickly unpacked, and ran to the other side of the island to check out the big sandy main beach and arrange for a dive trip. |
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We signed up for a dive on the next day
and then relaxed on the sand. I've never been to a beach in Europe but Sherrell assures me that the scene I was witnessing was common place there. I thought I was in Tahiti, almost all the European women were walking around topless--bold and brazen. I'm fine with people who choose to do this, but I think they should respect the local culture. It seemed awkward for the local people. Especially for the Asian women who arrived on the beach as tourists. They had quite a shocked look on their faces. Amazingly, though, the European women were oblivious to the shock and would walk up to counters place orders and walk around without batting an eye at the embarrassed locals. For the most part, there wasn't much to look at anyway. Some of the women appeared to be close to contracting skin cancer, they were so dark and leathery. Toplessness aside, we were ready to do some diving. The next day we found our way back to the beach and suited up. They took us around one of the corners of the island and dumped us overboard. There was an incredible amount of coral! Fish were teaming everywhere! In fact, we saw: stonefish, cuttlefish, octopus, angel fish, 10 different types of parrot fish, barricuda and miles of coral. Sherrell got to try her first "swim-through". It's an underwater tunnel in the rocks, and she bolted through like nobody's business. It was a fantasic dive and we decided to go snorkeling afterwards on the other side of the island to see if we wanted to try diving there too. |
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Snorkeling was as good as diving
because the water was so clear. Over the course of the 3
days we were on the island we probably spent 50% of the
time snorkeling. We covered about 1/4 of the side of the
island and during one day we spent 6 hours in the water.
The fish and coral were so amazing! In the evening we would relax on the hilltop overlooking the area where we swam and watch sailfish and tuna elude small black dolphins. We also watched big schools of tiny fish bubble to the surface, either being chased or having found some food. Sherrell was practically in a trance watching all the action. I had my beer and a good book. |
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The island was nice and remote. No cars, phones or computers. Most of the work was still done the old fashioned way, by some big animal. | ||||||||||||||||
For our last two days, we returned to the
main island and found a quiet room near our origional noisy
hostel. After unloading our stuff, we decided to try our hand at riding an elephant. Ever since the King of Thailand declared logging illegal, the elephants have been left without a job. Since they eat about 200 kg (400 lbs.) of vegi grub a day, the Thai's were hard pressed to buy enough food to feed them. So, several locals and conservation groups decided to turn this around, and make the money they needed to feed their enormous friends by giving rides to the many tourists. Ideally, the best thing would be to release these majestic animals back into their natural, wild habitat - but, man has quickly destroyed most of this, with barely enough jungle left to sustain the few remaining wild elephant herds. The only other alternatives, have been for the locals to bring their elephants into the cities, and beg for food. This is certainly the worst possible prospect for these animals and the people who care for them. Plodding down trails cut through the rubber tree forests, with tourists on their backs, has kept many of these domesticated "beasts" from starving to death. Which is convenient for me, as I love elephants and was delirious to take one for a test spin. Maybe a quick rampage through town then roll over a couple of bars. We went to the "elephant conservatory" which was very make-shift, but they seemed to really care for their elephants. They had a big platform to climb onto the elephant and a small seat on top. I was jealous of the handler who got to ride on his head. Massive does not describe these creatures. 4 tons, is like riding on a truck that can walk. The elephant lumbers along gracefully and quietly through the hillside, up and down ditches, in and out of trees. All while toting an extra 3 people. Check out her massive head and flapping ears. Did you know they can circulate all the blood in their body through their ears in about 20 minutes to regulate their body temperature? |
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Elephants can smell much better than
dogs and their brain is 4 times more massive than a human
brain. They live a life similar to humans, full grown at
20, go bald around 40, work until 60 and live to be about
70-80. The elephant had definitely scored big with me. |
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But I couldn't ride
her all day and they made me leave the conservatory
too. So we planned our trip for the next day.
Since our plane left at 8 pm, we decided on a full day tour on a boat, far away from the island. What could go wrong? We had 2 hours to spare. We left at 7am on our "sea canoeing" adventure to the "Bat Caves" and "James Bond Island". Perfectly touristy. Our Thai hosts made us feel at home on the boat by their relaxed style and telling of jokes. Soon we were off to see the bat caves. They were only discovered 10 years ago by an American kayaker. It seems there are still a few wonders left to be found. You have to keep a low profile to get into these caves, and watch the tide, otherwise you'll have a 6 hour wait before you can leave again. Here's a picture of some people who had just entered the lagoon inside the island. These lagoons are natural creations protected from the outside by massive cliff walls. Imagine that 10 years ago, no one had known these lagoons existed. |
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After some paddling through the caves and lagoons the tour went to "James Bond Island", probably the biggest tourist trap I've ever seen. Add one rock, filmed in a 1973 movie, a beach where no one can escape the shops and you've got this tourist trap. The rock was nice though. | ||||||||||||||||
There was an amazing rock formation on the island. Sherrell almost got swallowed up by it. | ||||||||||||||||
Our tour took us to a small island for snorkeling, and
we swam all the way around the island looking at the thousands of fish.
Unfortunately, there was quite a bit of evidence of dynamite fishing that
was done in the past. Big coral heads were blown apart similar to what we
saw in the Philippines. However, tourism has perserved a large section
of the marine life and there were many amazing sites still left to see. We were disappointed we had to leave, but the rush was on to get back to the airport to catch our flight. Surprisingly we somehow made it back to the jetti at 5pm, then to the hotel by 6pm and then to the airport by 7pm. Plenty of time to catch the plane. But both of us really wanted to stay. There was still the rain forest on the main-land and Phi Phi island to explore. Perhaps another day. |
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