Margarita - A Jewel by Any Other Name

Margarita is the Greek word for pearl and pearls contributed significantly to the development of this Venezuelan island which once provided Spain with shiploads of wealth. Today, Margarita remains a true island gem for reasons that reach far beyond the excellent pearl buys to be had there.

Unlike most other Caribbean Islands, Margarita has a gently rolling terrain that gives it a distinction lacking in nearby Aruba and other level vacation islands. The weather is predictable all year round with warm sunny days offering 12 month swimming and boating. The evenings are cool and breezy and the humidity is low.
Margarita with a spanish-speaking population of more than 200,000 is the largest of the three islands that make up the Caribbean state of Nueva Esparta (New Esparta). The other two islands, Coche and Cubagua, are sparsely settled. Coche's 5,000+ inhabitants, mostly in the village of San Pedro, make their living from fishing, salt mining and tourism whereas Cubagua was abandoned in 1550 after an earthquake caused two tidal waves to inundate the island.

Island Orientation

Margarita Island is approximately 70 kilometers (43 miles) long. It is actually two islands connected by a narrow isthmus. The western section, the Península de Macanao, is largely unpopulated.
Margarita's major urban center, Porlamar, is to the south-east. The International Airport del Caribe is on the southern rim of the island and is a half hour to 45 minute taxi cab ride from Porlamar. The island's thick section is a three quarter circle from Porlamar to Juan Griego which is center-north. On that near full circle are Margarita's finest beaches and the ride between the two towns is spectacular. The infrastructure of the island is in mint condition and no ride is longer than an hour.

Porlamar and Other Urban Centers

Porlamar's original name was "Puerto de la Mar" but islanders abbreviated it to Porlamar. Although most of the island is still subdued and quiet with beaches dominating, Porlamar with its 100,000 people has changed (along with its name) from a quiet fishing village into a booming town with skyscrapers, large commercial firms, excellent hotels, luxurious restaurants and energetic night clubs.
There are actually two distinct sections of Porlamar. As you first enter the city from the airport, the small crowded somewhat rusted apartment buildings of the residents are visible. Moving east on either Calle Zamora or Calle Igualdad, you pass several pedestrian thoroughfares that are strictly for shopping. Then suddenly, you come to the Hotel Bella Vista and the streets become dotted with tourists and much less crowded. The rusted apartment buildings change to gleaming glass-fronted clothing stores and you have now reached the tourist section of Porlamar. Stores selling Nike, Ralph Lauren, Polo, Finlandia, Lindt and other prominent brands line these streets and give them a real 5th Avenue texture.
In the cool part of the day the city of Porlamar is worth exploring on foot; particularly the main streets of Calles Igualdad and Guevara. Calle Igualdad runs from the Bella Vista Hotel to the Plaza Bolívar, the city's largest plaza, a 6-block stretch which is the site of tremendous building activity.
A pleasant stroll along Calle Guevara (in front of the church) will put you at Porlamar's outdoor market on the coast. Along the way are jewelry shops and stores. The market which runs for five or six short blocks offers avocados, oranges and pineapples plus fish and soft goods.
The Conejeros Market, situated on the northwestern rim of Porlamar approximately four kilometers from the corner of Avenida 4 de Mayo and Avenida Santiago Mariño, features both food and apparel. The prices for clothing are cheaper here than in the stores. The southern half of the market with its fruit, vegetable and fish vendors offers plenty of local color and character. In particular keep an eye out and a camera ready for the cigar-smoking female fish peddlers.
Worth exploring too is Urbanization Bella Vista on the Punta El Morro beach. Fishermen live on the strip closest to the sea. Their anchored boats are festooned with colorful balloons and they are extremely friendly to strangers. Stroll a block or two of the beach you will find yourself in the city's most attractive residential area with colonial style homes and fashionable cars.
Similarly, before heading north out of Porlamar one can wander through an interesting historical area that has been in the throes of restoration and remodeling for several years. It is found in the section known as El Poblado or Caserio Fajardo along what is variously called Avenida Miranda or Avenida Fajardo. Most of the homes in the old district date from the colonial era and have a very distinct yet simple architectural style typified by a high flat face and tile-topped shed roof.
From Porlamar, Avenida 4 de Mayo East leads to Pampatar and the north-east rim where Margarita's best beaches are located. Pampatar, another wonderful spanish colonial site, was founded in the sixteenth century. It now has 6,000 inhabitants. Here, the main attraction is the sailboats from around the world that are anchored in the harbor. Spend an hour or two relaxing at the beach particularly in the early morning hours. At this time, the sand's "wrinkles" have been pressed by the overnight tides. Order a fish breakfast from one of the kiosks and later rent a pedal boat at the beach if you want to venture out to get a closer look at the sailboats.
Further along, on the northern coast, Juan Griego is situated on a picturesque bay with clear cool waters. While lacking a variety of restaurants and nightlife, Juan Griego's 9,000 inhabitants contribute to its status as an active trading center. Of note here, the sunsets (some of the world's best!) will glaze your eyes. From the "bahia" you can see all the way out to the other end of the island past the La Restinga Lagoon.
Moving inland, one encounters La Asunción , the capital, which has 12,000 inhabitants and is the oldest town on the island. It was founded in 1561 in the Valley of Santa Lucia. Although the island's capital is very small, it is easy to get lost if you drive through this quaint little colonial town by car. On one side of the main plaza, the church dedicated to Nuestra Señora de La Asunción stands prominently alone. Begun in 1570, it is the oldest church in Venezuela and the second oldest in South America (one of the few remaining buildings in Venezuela which was initiated in the 16th century). If approaching the church from the rear along the sloping street leading into the center of town, one is afforded a rather interesting streetscape which frames the temple's bell tower (the only such tower in the country completed in the 16th century).
Across from the main plaza, near the cathedral, you should visit the Nueva Cadiz museum. In the near courtyard you will find the best map of the island - a 33 foot-long scale model in raised relief surrounded by water. Nearby, a former Franciscan convent (now the seat of the Legislative Assembly) sits among the governmental structures. A simple sundial still stands out front as placed there in 1612 by the then-governor, Bernardo de Vargas.
Finally, a short but steep climb from the plaza will lead visitors to the colonial fort, Castillo de Santa Rosa, which overlooks the capital city.
San Juan Bautista is of note because it is an ancient agricultural and artesian town where date palms are cultivated and where the local inhabitants make hats and pocketbooks with the leaves from those palm trees.
And not to be forgotten, Punta de Piedras with its 6,000 inhabitants is a fishing village which contains the ferry terminal and the Fundacion La Salle de Ciencias Naturales which carries out oceanographic studies on the fauna and flora of the surrounding sea.

Shops and Shopping

Margarita's rich oyster beds yield unusually shaped pearls which are primarily pink in color and fairly small. Some island shops sell jewelry that incorporates Margarita's pearls. Also sold here are cultivated pearls from Japan. These come in whites, grays and blacks and are good buys as well. For pearls in Porlamar, check out the Casa Avila, Calle Gomez 47, which owner Juan Avila Guerra operates from his home. He has bags of pearls which he tosses out on a green felt table as if they were grains of rice.
However, don't overlook the great buys in ceramic, wood carvings, woven hammocks and straw articles which often are attractive works of art in and of themselves. Shopping, of course, is dominated by the stores selling international duty free goods. The streets of Santiago Mariño, 4 de Mayo, Calles Igualdad, Guevara and Macanao are all brimming with shops.

Sightseeing and Adventure

After you have gained possession of a reliable vehicle and a detailed map you should begin your adventure by heading out towards El Valle del Espíritu Santo.
Upon arriving in El Valle, take time to look at the church of the Virgin (one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in Venezuelan Catholicism). Also visit the museum. When you have breathed the atmosphere of piety to your spirit's content, take the road that leads off to the left and climb to the highest point of the sierra, the Cerro El Copey, where the television antennae are located. Cab drivers will almost never consent to taking you all the way to the summit and tour buses will not make the climb either. Try to go on a clear day. Check to see if the television towers are clouded in. You can see them from both Porlamar and Juan Griego. They won't appear to be especially high but they are about 915 meters (3,000 feet) up - the height of three Empire State buildings stacked on top of one another - and on a clear day you truly can revel in a bird's eye view of the entire island and you can even catch a glimpse of the distant mainland. In the warmer months of the year, the temperature at the summit can be pleasantly cool [20C (68F)], so if you wish to prolong the panorama, take a sweater and lunch with you.
Passing through La Asunción, take the northern route to Tacarigua. Tacarigua is the setting for a cottage industry manufacturing hammocks, dolls and miniature donkeys made of corn leaves. The shops along the road offer selections of hammocks which you can always find an opportunity to use at every beach on the island.
The road from Tacarigua continues on to a delightful little settlement by the name of Santa Ana. The church here is historically of importance as it hosted the inauguration of Simón Bolívar as supreme commander of the Venezuelan independence movement back in 1816. In Santa Ana, you will also find craftsmen who specialize in the manufacture of "Chinchorros" (a rougher version of the hammock designed for warmer climates). Other artisans specialize in the carving of miniature furniture in a traditional style.
From Santa Ana, follow the sign for El Cercado and El Maco (turn left after the plaza). Upon reaching El Cercado, turn left and then left again. Continue up to the final house on the right hand side of the road. This is the home workshop of Vincenta, a locally renowned artist responsible for the ceramic figure of the Virgin del Valle that stands vigil in the lobby of the Hilton Hotel. Do not let the fact that her business is situated in a private house cause you to refrain from entering. These domestic factories welcome visitors.
From El Cercado drive further along the road until you reach the town of El Maco which produces various types of inexpensive footwear. Stop anywhere you see a sign saying "Calzados". From there, the next stop is Los Millanes, a must for cigar fans. Here, tobacco shipped in from the mainland is hand rolled upon request. To reach Los Millanes from El Maco, continue along the main road and turn right when you spot the sign for Los Millanes. At the end of the road turn right again and drive through the town until you reach the main plaza. Opposite the police station, there is a grass covered track that leads to the home of Geronima, a professional cigar roller. Alternatively, walk away from the plaza on the left hand road until you reach a white house with red tiles called Machenta. This is the home of an elderly lady by the name of Inocenta who will be proud to show you how it is done.
Return to the road that brought you out of El Maco and turn right into the hills. When you reach the intersection with the main highway that runs between San Juan and Juan Griego, turn left towards San Juan Bautista and at the next intersection turn left again. Keep left and follow the road into the outskirts of the hills until you arrive at a white house with a red arrow standing opposite a roofed cross. At this junction, turn left and motor up into the mountains where the delightfully picturesque spanish settlement of Fuentidueño is located.
The fertility of this shaded valley will force you to reconsider if you have already classified Margarita as a desert island. Named after its founder, Rodrigo de Fuentidueño, the township is one of the oldest on the island and it boasts a small stream and waterfall. Along the banks of the stream the municipality has erected a number of outdoor grills for visitors wishing to cook their own lunch. The path that runs along the stream offers a pleasant and relaxing walk through tropical greenery.
The specialties of Fuentidueño are hand-stitched hats made from the leaves of nearby date trees and a delicious sweet called Pinonate. Pinonate is made from sugar cane with fruit flavoring and sold in banana leaf packages.
To leave Fuentidueño, return to the intersection with the roofed cross and turn left. At the next opportunity turn right and follow the road into San Juan Bautista and then on towards the airport until you see the sign for El Espinal. Drive through the town until you reach a mud hut with a thatched roof situated on the left hand side if the road. Next door, a white house with a red pattern is the home and factory of Señor Cruz, an elderly gentleman who produces a crude form of sandal known as "Alpargatas". The sole consists of rubber from used tires and the cloth straps are hand-stitched.
At this point, if you are still feeling energetic, turn right and drive a kilometer (0.6 miles) to the west. Directly opposite the airport turnoff, take the dirt track that leads to the new highway that passes alongside the as-yet-unspoiled coastline from La Guardia to Juan Griego. In Juan Griego you can complete your tour enjoying dinner on the beach, watching the Caribbean sun sink slowly into the sea, smoking a fine cigar with your Sambucca and counting any spoils of your artisan crusade.

Ahhh! Beaches

There are excellent beaches on each coast, some of them with fine surf, others bordered by water as tranquil as a lake. At Playa Bella Vista and Playa El Morro on Porlamar's Guaraguao Bay, the water is warm and calm. Conversely, at Playa Manzanillo at the northern tip of the island, it is relatively cold.
As can be expected where the annual rainfall averages only 700 mm (27 inches) per year, plants such as cardon cactus and pale-green-barked yabo are prominent in the dry scrub which covers most of the island. Pairs of scarlet cardinals are not an uncommon sight. Margarita also has wooded areas and fertile valleys.
But, you are never far from the sea on Margarita. The beaches here are virtually endless. Your only problem will be to find enough time to explore even half of them. One general rule: the best swimming in most areas is the early part of the day.
The beaches are the reason for coming to Margarita but what makes Margarita different from other Caribbean islands is that it is much cheaper and less blatantly tourist. The majority of the beaches are white lines of sand not riddled with attractions such as food stalls, wind-surfing outlets, scuba entrepreneurs, etc.
At Pampatar, the beach is calm, tranquil and dominated by a cluster of fishing boats. The setting is also majestic with the beach shaded by Pampatar's castle and fort. But this is not the place to be if you are planning to spend your day tanning and swimming. Instead, north of Pampatar you will eventually arrive at Playa Guacuco. This beach is the starting line for a row of beaches that are Margarita's best and are fit dueling partners for any in the Caribbean.
Playa Guacuco which ends at the little town of El Tirano is the longest stretch of beach on the island. It is almost perfect with the surf rough enough for playing but not overpowering and the sand as soft as a mattress. However, there is not much shade on the beach so a healthy dose of sunscreen is necessary. But a restaurant-bar as well as showers and restrooms can be found on the beach.
North from Playa Guacuco, past a rocky dyke is Playa El Agua, Margarita's finest beach. El Agua is unequaled with huge waves, palm trees and soft sand. It also has a beach house with showers and bathrooms. Clothing and souvenir stalls are on the road behind the restaurants.
A little north from El Agua is Playa Manzanillo which is only slightly less wonderful than El Agua. Stop periodically along the route to peer down the slopes to the fishing villages and secluded beaches far below. Camera buffs should find that the route will yield the best picture-perfect land and seascapes. Playa Manzanillo is a departure point for fishermen and the back of the beach is lined with huts, boats, nets and other fishing gear. In the morning, the fishermen will quote you a price to take a group of up to twenty people on a round-trip excursion along the northern coast wading up onto the beaches of Caracare, Bahia Constanza or Puerto La Cruz. Puerto Príncipe is the beach which most of the fishermen recommend due to the clarity and tranquillity of its waters. The price will vary depending upon the amount of time that travelers want to remain on the beaches before the fishermen return to take them back.
The twist around Margarita's northern spur, Cabo Negro, and the ride south to Juan Griego is inexpressibly spectacular. The mountains sway and nap behind you and the water engulfs you. Below is a litany of beaches that look abandoned. Fixing your eyes south from the beach opposite Manzanillo, you can see the beaches of Los Morros de Constanza, Puerto Viejo, Puerto Cruz, Bahia Pedro González, Playa Caribe and Bahia La Galería (the most modern and built-up of these quiet and somewhat isolated beaches).
Finally, from downtown Juan Griego the adventurous tourist is within walking distance of several of these splendid beaches. By foot or car, a mere two kilometers (1.2 miles) separates the traveler from the cool and peaceful waters of Playa Galería . The passage of another two will take him to the more insistent surf of Playa Caribe. And just around the next bend, less than one-half kilometer (0.3 miles) from Playa Caribe, a marvelous stretch of white isolated sand known as Playa Boquita is his alone for the taking. It is perhaps the most accessible of all the deserted beaches.
Of all the beaches on the northern shore, Playa Caribe offers the best view of the island's long mountainous northern coastline. At the far southwestern end of Playa Caribe lies Playa Piel, the favorite place for those seeking that all-over-body tan. At low tide, you can maneuver around the rocks at the far end to a sheltered cove. If the mood strikes you, it's a good place to skinny dip. The only surprise intrusion might come by sea in the form of a fishing skiff suddenly rounding the rocky point.
Among travelers who have scoured many Caribbean islands in search of awe-inspiring beaches, Playa Puerto Cruz is generally regarded as the finest and most spectacular of all of Margarita's beaches. Situated on a long gently curving bay, this beach offers the visitor the whitest, widest stretch of sand on the island. Until early 1986, there were no food or beverage services available at Playa Puerto Cruz. On weekdays, it was often possible to find yourself completely alone in this tropical paradise; climbing the top of the sand dunes, baring your hidden flesh to the sun and viewing the placid blue waters far below.
During the past few years, several refreshment shacks have been added and the crowds have grown. It has become a particular favorite of the so-called "college crowd". However, as beautiful as the surf may appear, it is in fact extremely treacherous. When swimming stay very close to shore because the pounding water carries with it an even deadlier undertow.

Other Places of Interest

Natural Monuments

To the north of the village of Punta de Piedras and not far from the city of Porlamar, one can find the Laguna Las Maritas which is ideal for water-skiing, fishing and boating. In contrast, Las Tetas de Maria Guevara are two peaks resembling female breasts. The hills called Matasiete and Guayamurí with altitudes of 560 and 470 meters (1837 and 1542 feet) respectively are famous for some important battles which were fought there during the war of independence.

La Restinga Lagoon

Contained within a 46,000 acre national park which divides the island into east and west, its channels and luxuriant mangroves (on whose aerial roots oysters live) can be toured by outboard motor boats or rowing craft. Here, the emphasis should be on the boat ride. Plan on staying no more than a half hour at the approximately 10 kilometer (6 mile) long beach unless you know beforehand that it's clam season. If the clams are in, you can wade into the water and feel around for guacuco shells. At those times when they are in abundance, you merely have to sit or kneel in the water and scoop them up as the tide rolls them back to you from the shore. A half-hour's picking should net you a bucketful or more of clams.

Península de Macanao

Ideal for photographers for its quaint atmosphere and lovely landscapes, try to spend at least one morning driving around this desert wilderness. In order to save time, link it up with a trip to La Restinga.

At Playa Cardón on a Moonlit Night

In Hotel Karibik, you can order a drink at the poolside bar and then walk out to the lounges situated near the cliff overhanging the shore. With the moon dancing on the water and the sky lit with stars, the waves pounding below combine to form one of the island's best places to pass a peaceful evening in the company of the heavens. Link it up with an early evening meal followed by a "good smoke" at the seaside restaurant, Marymonte, about one kilometer (0.6 miles) down the road towards El Tirano. And once again, Margarita, "Pearl of the Caribbean", sparkles like a gem - it is truly a jewel by any other name.