First created on 7th November 2000.
Sarawak Holiday Tips
The Bako National Park
This is a beautiful rainforest with abundant wildlife, interesting plant life which includes pitcher plants amidst heath forest, secluded beaches, and a variety of good trekking trails, all well-explained. On the latter, beware getting lost as a Dutch tour guide did recently. (When I visited the park and stayed two nights, I could find no reason why anyone can get lost in this well-marked out park.) Highlights of the park must be the proboscis monkey and bearded wildboar, but I enjoyed the feasting (all natural, no mock up, mind you!) by the monitor lizards. You must bring a video camera to better capture the action. Overall, it's a well-run park and the best I've been to, compared to Taman Negara in the West Malaysian state of Pahang.
On board and lodging, food is inexpensive and caters to European tastes as well. There's a choice of chalet units, lodges and hostel-style rooms, but if you can get camping equipment, try camping out, and this way, you will certainly come face to face with wildboar. We stayed at a lodge: one double room in the lodge costs about RM 40 (US$ 1 = RM 3.8).
The jetty from which you get a boat for Bako is only about 30 minutes from Kuching City by taxi. Be prepared to pay only RM 30 for the ride from the Kuching Airport.
Contact information:
National Parks & Wildlife Booking Office
Tel.: 082-248 088; Fax: 082-256 301
(Open 0800 to 1615 most days)
Kuching City
Compared to Kuala Lumpur, Kuching is laid back. However, it has many charms, beginning with its name, which means "cat". So, if you love this pet, visit the Cat Museum first. The Sarawak River cuts the city into two and so it's the only city (perhaps in the world?) with 2 mayors. A sunset stroll along the famous Waterfront (closest hotel: Holiday Inn) is a must, especially for keen photographers. The two major ethnic groups in Sarawak are the Ibans and Chinese. Kuching is mainly populated by the Chinese, mostly Hokkien and Hakka speaking, yet you still find a chinatown. The Fuchows, a proud and extremely enterprising Chinese dialect group, are already exerting a strong influence in the city as can be seen (by non-Fuchow like myself) by the gaudy colours of their buildings. However, when it comes to food, you must try their "burgers" (we found them to be good as takeaways for our Bako visit) and noodles. Talking about noodles, you must try the "Kolow Mee". We cannot get it in Peninsular. Seafood is splendid. For good coconut tastes, try the pandan coconut. This tropical fruit is best consumed when it is young: we take the drink with delicious flesh.
Where to stay?
There are good hotels (4 or 5 star) which offer very low rates: only RM 125 per night. Holiday Inn, Hilton, and Crowne Plaza are good choices.
Shopping? If you like handicrafts, especially jungle products and tribal artifacts, there are good bargains around. I like the woven rattan mats. Look for the hand made ones. Typical prices about RM 100 for 6'X9'. For really genuine tribal hand made ones, be ready to fork out about RM 400. For these sizes, the shop will be able to 'Post Laju' or 'Express Post' them for you (Not sure about overseas though). Other handicrafts are the beautiful Sarawak vases. Don't forget the pepper: white or black. For those who haven't got used to the spiciness, a bottle will last a long time. Costs only about RM 10 or less.
Beaches?
About 45 minutes away from the city, you reach the beautiful Damai Beach. Here, you should stay at Holiday Inn. Rates slightly more than in city. Unspoilt and great sunsets. While you're here, visit the Sarawak Cultural Village, which is almost next door. This is a must as they are very professional with the displays. You can even try your skills using the blowpipe. I like the display on the Chinese rice flour grinder. We had one back home then. The scenery in the Village is nice too. Make sure you get your 'passport' stamped at each tribal village.
Any more?
With one week to spare, you could try hunting for the Rafflesia, the largest flower in the world. (It also smells like rotting flesh, I am told!) You will need to ask at the hotel which park nearby will offer you the best chance of spotting it. I haven't seen the flower myself. If you want to meet the famous orangutans, Kuching is the place. What about river cruises? (You will be in one when you go to Bako anyway.) If you wish to go one more time, they'll take you to a kiln which makes charcoal. I'm not sure if there're dolphins around, but the tour guide will ask you to look out for them.
If time is no constraint, then you will find that Sarawak is the place to stay put in. Sarawakians are genuinely friendly people and they walk the extra mile to help you. These are some of the things you can do:
Stay in a long house: The native people stay in these communal dwellings in the interior of Sarawak. If you are lucky, you will get invited to one and you can sample some of their rich cultures. I haven't been to one, but I was told to be prepared for the trophies hung around the houses. You see, the Ibans were once headhunters and the skulls are prized!
Visit the caves: The world's largest caves are found in Sarawak. The most famous caves are found in the Mulu National Park, but the trip can be rather costly as the only feasible way to go there is by flying. You then put up in a beautiful resort for about RM 150 a night. Another cave, well known for the archeological finds, is the Niah Cave. It is an hour's drive from Bintulu.
Do as the locals do, and that is travel by boat and go into the interior. Many places in this vast Borneo landmass is not accessible by road. One journey that is best taken is the boat trip from Kuching to Sibu using the mighty Rejang River. If you travel further into the interior, you are certain to meet shy natives, some of who have never met white people before. The Penans are an interesting race. Shy, but determined, some of them put up resistance against loggers. It is sad that, with development comes the felling of trees. The Sarawak Government is genuinely going into sustainable forest management, but we can expect forest cover, and hence the flora and fauna, to diminish. I believe eco-tourism is urgently needed to prevent more forests from being cut, and hence, one reason for my active promotion of Sarawak as a holiday destination.
Last words
Don't think that because Sarawak is part of Malaysia, you can leave your passport behind in K.L. I have to bring mine or else I show my Identity Card and fill up a form, much to the joy of the locals as they just walk through Immigration and gawk at us hunting for the forms. The 2-hour flight from KL (ask for departure from Subang, not KLIA as you save on taxi fare) costs about RM 500 by MAS (will be cheaper by about RM 100 if you travel at wee hours). Air Asia used to offer a package: Less than RM 440 for return flight and 2-3 nights at Holiday Inn Kuching, slightly more for Holiday Inn Damai Beach, but I'm not sure if this real hot bargain is for Malaysians only..
First created on 7th November 2000.
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