Adinkra, a famous
cloth from
Ghana |
Artisans hard at work
posing with me |
One of the most famous
African cloths,
kente |
Beautiful colors
and well-made |
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November 15, 1998
Back from Accra, Ghana
Earlier today I returned from a week in Ghana, formerly known as the Gold Coast. It
was colonized by British so I had to get used to asking for fish and chips, and speaking
English to waiters. It's a little funny getting used to the English in Africa
though. When you enter a restaurant, the Ghanaians say, "You're welcome,"
as in "Welcome to the restaurant." Also, if you do something to yourself
(like tripping or dropping something) they'll say, "I'm sorry," as if they
caused your misfortune. Actually, they're just being nice or concerned for your
well-being, but it is disconcerting to an American English speaker. Another thing
that catches me off guard is when I
say, "Hello" or "Good morning" to someone, they respond with,
"Fine." But I haven't yet asked how they are… Sometime if you
ask a waiter if they have
something, such as ketchup, they might answer with, "No, please." In
class, I was asked, "Can I go pass water?" Unfortunately, with the
different accent, I didn't catch on right away that they wished to use the restroom (or
nearby bush). On a different note, the more religious people answer many things
with, "Thank God". For example, if you ask if they slept well the night
before, they might answer with, "Thank God." So it was interesting for me
to get used to this new English, and to have so many devout Christians everywhere. I
don't think I met anyone who was Muslim during my trip. It's funny that I have
certain Muslim habits now, like greeting everyone with Asaalam Malekum, or saying
Alhamdulilai (Praise be to Allah). I didn't know how to start a conversation with
vendors there either. In Senegal, there's a whole routine I'm used to going through
in Wolof, before I switch over to French. Interesting how different an
English-speaking country can be!
November 17, 1998
Continuing the Accra story…
Go to Ghana to eat. They have great restaurants and they have character and are
elegant in a simple way. I ate Mexican, Italian, Indian, and Lebanese. I guess I
even ate British when I had fish and chips.
Go to Ghana for more green and hills. I didn't get very far out of Accra. As a
matter of fact, I only got to Buduburam Camp, a refugee camp about a 45-minute drive from
the capital. I would have enjoyed visiting the rainforests, or more of the
countryside, but I didn't have the time.
Everyday I left with my colleagues from Ghana at 7:15 so we could begin our Cultural
Orientation classes. We each taught two-day sessions with a class of about 35
students each. All but five students were Liberian. Two were from the
neighboring country of Togo, two were from Nigeria, all political refugees. One
refugee was a Sierra Leonian, probably a family reunification refugee. We did our
training in pavillion-type buildings.
It is still hot in Ghana, so the average temperature was in the nineties. It really
exhausts you, teaching in hot weather like that. The refugee camp was not what you
would expect. Most lived in cement or semi-permanent mud homes. It seems their
relatives in America send money to them to help with the building costs. The area is
guarded by UNHCR and is enclosed. I don't know how many people were there, but I
would guess around 10,000. It seemed many of the children were going to school, and
on the whole, people were fairly healthy. The camp seemed like a village, and they
take care in its appearance. Trash was not strewn everywhere and things were
orderly. Some outhouses had been built, although I noticed during classes people
wouldn't bother going that far; they would relieve themselves somewhere nearby (which is
typical all over West Africa from what I have seen). We actually tell them it's
against the law in America to urinate in public and they think it's a joke. Where do
you go then, when you're in the country? It's hard for them to believe that you can
be in the middle of "nowhere" and can still find a gas station or restaurant.
I'll try to think of some of the more interesting questions they had for me.
Some interesting tidbitsOn the average, in a group of 35, maybe 6 or so have high school
diplomas, 5 have ever flown in a plane, 4 have had paid jobs, 5 have had bank accounts,
and around 3 can't speak English (even when they're from an English-speaking country).
In some groups, all these numbers are even lower.
My next training is next week here in Dakar. I will do a three-day session, rather
than two. I'll conduct this one in French, and will have participants from Algeria,
Rwanda, and Chad. It should be interesting to meet some new nationalities, and to
not have to travel to get to work!!!
The following week I'll head to Banjul in the Gambia for three days too.
After that, I don't know what I'll be doing!
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