October 26, 2005. This day we began a trip that I had never even dreamed of, but all the conditions came together just right. We were on the way to Tahiti, in the Society Islands, which in turn are a part of French Polynesia in the Pacific Ocean, way south of the equator.
We left home and drove to Seattle, where we drove around to some old familiar places, including Huntington Park where we used to live, and Saltwater State Park, then checked into a motel for an overnight stay. The next morning we flew to Los Angeles on an Alaskan Airlines flight. Los Angeles Airport (LAX) has seven separate terminals and luckily the one for international flights was just next door to the one where we landed, so we grabbed a cart and pushed it and our baggage out onto the sidewalk and into the next building.
After all the required baggage checks and security alarms (who would have thought a metal belt-buckle would set off an alarm) we waited for our flight.
Eventually we were called for loading onto our plane, but we were told that since there had not been a gate available we would have to get on a bus and be transported out (miles out!) to where the plane was parked. Eventually we arrived at a sort of concrete building with long ramps, and circled our way up to the level of our flight. It turned out to be an Airbus 320 (if it ain't Boeing I'm going anyhow!) and the airline was Air Tahiti Nui.
It took off on-time, and 8 1/2 hours later landed on-time.The plane was nearly new, in excellent condition and immaculate. The cabin crew, male and female, were young Tahitians, large, good looking and extremely efficient. It was less boring than it might have been; each passenger had an entertainment center featuring movies, videos, games to play and information about the progress of our flight (approximate position over the Pacific, outside temperature [minus 60?], altitude and ground speed). We landed at Papeete just about dark. There was only one combination runway/taxiway but it was big enough, although in the run-out our left wing was overhanging the water.
After wending our way into the airport and through passport control, customs and baggage claim we boarded a bus for the 25-minute ride through downtown Papeete to the Radisson Plaza Resort. What a beautiful setting and luxurious rooms! Our room even included a Jacuzzi. We spent some time wondering where our baggage went (suppose they took it to the ship?) Well, no, it showed up shortly.
Oct 28 - The hotel's location was everything it was supposed to be; a little out of town but right above a black sand beach and backed up by the mountains, with surf pounding all the time. We spent an hour watching two local boys playing in the surf. It was questionable whether they had more fun than we did watching them.
The hotel restaurant is a beautiful outdoor type building that would be completely impractical anywhere but in the tropics - no walls. The meals were excellent, but I would not have wanted to pay separately for them. Prices there and all over the island were sky-high.
Saturday, Oct. 29 - We found there was some sort of local celebration going on down on the beach. We went down and joined them and found that some of the older people were throwing a party for the youngsters, with the aim of showing them how things were done in the "old days". Someone had Rose sit down in a shelter with a group of women. A young girl put a circlet on Rose's head; made her look like an Indian. A photographer was taking pictures for the local newspaper, and told her she would be featured the next day. Unfortunately we were not able to locate the right issue of the paper.
We had signed up for this tour with Vantage Travel, but we found we were intermingled with people from Great Circle Tours. In an informational meeting we were informed that these operations were owned separately by two brothers who had not got along for years. Now they had decided they needed to combine for business purposes and were even in negotiations with Radisson toward purchasing the ship "The Paul Gauguin".
On the way to board ship we were taken for a little tour of Papeete and Tahiti. At a park we got to meet four people who claimed to be direct descendants of the "Bounty" mutineers. Could be. Also, we saw a beautiful waterfall that tumbled down from the mountains. Our bus developed mechanical problems that delayed us so long we had to forego the scheduled trip to the James Hall Museum. (Mr. Hall and Charles Nordhoff are the authors of the Bounty trilogy. The events concerning the mutiny, the subsequent trip of the loyal crew in a small boat, and the activities of the mutineers, are of huge historical interest around Tahiti.)
Eventually we got on board "The Paul Gauguin", were greeted by friendly, smiling crew-members and shown to our cabins. What a gorgeous ship! Luxury and care for passenger comfort were evident wherever one looked.
Our cabin, while not one of the most expensive, was well-appointed and larger than we had expected. Also one feature of the decor was mirrored walls which made it seem even larger. A complimentary bar-refrigerator was well-stocked with soft drinks and such, and anything we used was promptly replaced.
Docked next to us was a huge private yacht, nearly as big as our ship. Its name was "Octopus". We were informed that it carried two helicopters, a submarine large enough to hold eight people and a small deep submergence vessel. To operate this ship and its equipment took a crew of 60, many of whom were ex-Seals. The owner? Paul Allen of Microsoft.
Well, dinnertime arrived and we changed to our "club casual" clothing and headed for the dining room. Huge room, beautifully appointed and served by young Filipino waiters with an attention that was almost embarassing. I don't suppose I shall ever get used to four-course dinners that include five changes of plate, innumerable changes of silver and never-emptied wine glasses. And I really prefer to put my own napkin in my own lap, thank you! The food was very good, but with a South Seas/French slant. Because of the surrounding seas it was pretty heavy on fish, partly because it was available fresh and, I suppose,less expensive. Took a little getting used to, but I enjoyed it. Rose just avoided it.
There are basically two types of islands in the South Pacific; volcanic islands and coral islands, called "motus". The motus were typically flat, sandy islets almost always connected to the coral reefs, and in truth, they exist because of the reefs. The volcanic islands usually consist of a beach, a narrow strip of flat land, perhaps 100 to 200 yards wide, then steep slopes up into the high jungle-covered mountains. This results in very little habitable acreage. Once you subtract enough land to build a road, there's not much left for construction.
When we awoke next morning, Sunday, Oct 30th, we were cruising on our way to spend the day at Raiatea. We did not disembark there, preferring to spend the day on board, admiring the island from the air-conditioned comfort of the ship. It was, however, just as beautiful as the rest of the Society Islands.
Monday, October 31, Halloween. We spent a good portion of the day at a beach picnic, complete with palm trees, beach chairs, pretty girls, ukelele music, swimming and a great lunch! But it was hot!
Had an "opportunity" to buy an inexpensive black pearl necklace. Then went back to the ship to rejuvenate and refrigerate.
Tuesday, November 1. When we awoke we were just approaching Bora Bora.
Geographically, this island was the most interesting to me. It is surrounded by a nearly complete circle of reef, with only one way in, whether you were on a large cruise ship or paddling in your canoe. It was absolutely weird to look out from the deck and see a fisherman less than a hundred feet away standing knee deep on the reef.
The island itself is also nearly circular, but sometime in the past a volcano has blown huge gaps in two places, creating small harbors.
We went ashore and visited the little town of Viatape stretched along the shore. A clean neat little place. Hot. Van drivers were competing for the right to take us to a "pearl farm". Not really a farm, but a very good simulation of the steps they take to produce black pearls. It's a pretty complicated procedure.
A lesson in transportation economics - We could have signed up for an expensive round-the-island tour on "Le Truck" (old school buses). The road around Bora Bora is 39 miles long. The van took us 25 miles south to the farm, then when we got back to Viatape, we took another van north about 12 miles to another black pearl sales room. Considering that both van trips were completely free, we didn't feel upset about the missing two miles.
That evening the Vantage representative threw a cocktail party. We attended, hung around a while and went to dinner. We planned on attending the 9:45 evening show in the Grand Lounge aboard, but couldn't stay awake that long.
Wednesday, November 2. Went ashore and had a trip to the reef in a glass-bottomed boat. The idea was to be able to look down and see fish and several varieties of coral; and so we did. The skipper of the boat circled around a group of divers, and we got to look at them, too. They were more interesting than the fish! Also the crewman slipped overboard with a handful of bait, and attracted literally hundreds of little yellow-tailed butterfly fish. Back on board "Paul Gauguin" for dinner. This time we ate in the small dining room (reservations only). Managed to avoid "escargot et cuisses de nymph" snails and frogs legs; settled for mahi-mahi instead. Scrumptious! Went back on deck to say goodbye to Bora Bora.
Thursday, November 3. On deck early to say hello to Moorea. The small harbor was occupied by that huge "Octopus", so we waited a bit until they maneuvered out of the harbor because there just wasn't room for both ships at the same time. Moorea has at least one claim to fame; it is thought to be the island that Michener renamed Bali-Hai in his book. Also, Moorea is quite close to Tahiti, so considering the scarcity of dwelling places in Papeete, many people live on Moorea and commute to work in Papeete by ferry. Took another van ride to a black pearl shop. Gorgeous stuff, ranging up to the tens of thousands of dollars. I lost my sales resistance and bought Rose a beautiful black pearl necklace. Not in the ten thousand range, though. Back on the dock, we bought some "tourist jewelry" and tendered back aboard. Missed lunch, so we made a meal of some of the fruit and pop that was always available in our stateroom.
Friday, November 4. Went ashore again. This time I resisted the pearls, but Rose bought a pareu, a sort of cloth-of-all-uses. Native ladies wear them as dresses - and look very attractive in them. I got a t-shirt and shirt. The young lady who sold the pareu was still working on her Engish. To show Rose how to wrap it around her torso, she said "now lift your leg" at the same time raising her own arm!
Spent a while packing this afternoon. We needed to leave out some travel clothes and the "country club casual" for dinner since we were to leave the ship the next morning. In the afternoon attended a "disembark" meeting. lots of talk, but not much of interest. Docked in Papeete harbor in the early evening.
Saturday, November 5. Out of our cabin at 9:00, sat and stood around until we were called for our bus to the hotel. Bye, Paul Gauguin, what a great ship!
Arrived at the hotel; Surprise - check-in took about 30 seconds! The hotel room this time was a suite; double sinks, tub and shower, a guest bathroom, separate living and bed rooms. POSH!
Sunday, November 6. Spent most of the day waiting. After breakfast spent some hours listening to an orchestra (flute, guitar, bass and a vocalist). That evening things began to get exciting. The Vantage manager had us on a list for a 12:45 flight; our tickets were for an 11:15 flight. Had to argue to get our luggage on the right van, then later had to argue some more to get ourselves on the right bus. Luckily, we won. Took off with no further problem (at 11:15).
Monday, November 7. Landed in L A, glad to get off the plane. Took an Alaskan Airlines flight to Seattle, and checked into a motel to get rested up for the drive home.
That was a magnificent trip! I'd like to do it all over again, barring the 8 1/2 hour flight.