Pylades Millenium Cruise 1999-2000
Fergus Quinlan & Kay Cronin
14th May
At mid day sister Mary’s birthday after apparently endless preparations and
still much to do Pylades slips out of Malahide and points in the direction
of Wales. With a light NNE wind we catch up on rest and sleep and begining
to unwind. Two in the morning reality sets in as much reefing takes place
in the vicinity of Bardsey Light and sea cuts up a little. Landing in
Aberdovey Wales very calm on a beautiful mornig at 9.00. Daughter Sarah’s
smiling face turns up shortly.
We are taken on a tour of the Outward Bound Training Centre very impressive,
Fergus and Kay are ‘Invited’ to take ‘the great leap’ pride prevents
Fergus’s sensible back off. Kay, not being a proud person BACKS OFF. And the
deed is proceeded with. This form of torture consists of being harnessed up
(100 % safe ?) climbing to the top of a telegraph pole standing on top of
same and diving for a trapeze, then being lowered gently to the
ground.Children get their revenge!.
Eddie Cleary visits for the night Eddie had hoped to make the run to Spain
but unfortunately work intervened.
16th May
Sarah and Jay decide to do the run to Spain with us. Eddie leaves
boat and like the pied piper , clears the ship of mice and camera.
Engine starts, lines away, seacock still shut, smoke, impeller burns out,
chaos on deck as lines foul and many helpers arrive, (skipper hides), - new
impeller.
As we are about to leave again an elderly man shuffles down the quay wall
and profers man a bottle of champagne on behalf of Aberdovey and is to
wish us well on our voyage.
17th May
Wind and weather fair all day - night brings dolphins and an increase in
wind and the dawn comes up blood red - , forecast which was set fair for day
goes through the tubes.
By 9.00 amin the morning three reefs in the main and the wind F7. Talk of
very high wind on radio unsettles. By 15.00 seas cutting up rough. Mainsail
stowed, staysail only, boat flying. Thoughts turn from Spain to shelter in
the Scilly Isles. Turn to wind under staysail only and much to our surprise
Pylades goes to wind at 6.5kts. All on harness, seas breaking over boat,
one wave goes into cabin K’s does her Mrs. Mops. A fight to St.Marys
harbour. Lots of boats sheltering . Dinner and wine great.
18th May
Visit by customs, think we were the only boat inspected, HRH Charles to
visit islands this evening, there may be connection.
Ferg puts back out doing his lotus position.
19th May
£34 each for S & J to get back to mainland on ferry, Pylades to bring them
back.First time tie up on English mainland. Tied up in Penzance harbour,
nice town in places no pirates obvious. Ship - ‘Eye of the Wind’ arrives
after circumnavigation, we take many photos with old camera and indeed many
photos all the way to France and indeed all the way down the coast of
France, this camera seems never to run out of film.( no film ) we are
getting dotty.
21th May
Sarah and Jay head off for bus back to work. We do the area.
22nd May
Exit and away south, pass the great Russian sail ship ‘Sedov’ many photos,
Russian sailors give great waving. Wind West 4/5 Many ships in channel
Report to traffic control as we approach Ouessant(Ushant) wind veering
decide to take inner passage through Passage du Fromveur, leading lights
very good but un-nerving to rush at 7kts into dark passage with shoals
abounding. Pressure of following tide gets us up to 10kts. A fine dawn in
France, tie at Camaret Sur Mer, National Holiday declared pontoon party
organised, Ferg plays the box, the French dance on the pontoon and give us
wine and mackerel, any more mackerel and FQ will give up the box.
23rd
A boarding by a pair of armed Douane all papiers are in order.
25th May
Leave for Spain ( round two) hoisting main, look up huge halo around the
sun, consult with weather lore, ( a certain sign of deteriorating weather)
French forecasts change dramatically , we run through Raz de Sain to Ste
Evette then to Audierne, best decision so far, SW gales in Biscay for next
few days. Audierne an absolutely beautiful town - we tie up in the middle
of same 106FF per night, and wander it for many days - soak in the
atmosphere and the wine at £2.50 for very good bottle. Kay’s back goes out
(from carrying too much wine in the back pack !!) Fergus’s back gets in.
Man knocks on the boat one night to say it is not usual and very courageous
to see Italian flag in port, we say it is Irish, he say welcome and calls
off the hit. Glad it does not look like a German flag.
31st May
Lows in Biscay suggest we buy more French charts and cruise south,
Lochtudy tie up, not the best of places, but Ile Tudy across the way is
magnifique. Kay gets hair cut from F, things settle down after a while. We
go for drink in town asked to leave Bar at 20.55 all bars shut. They open
at 6.00 in morning. Large cultural differences detected.
2nd June
Next stop Benodet and the much more beautiful adjacent Saint Marine, best
pub to-date. The churches are all worth visiting very simple full of ship
and boat models all very much turned to the sea and fishing, many candles
lit in many churches on the coast for voyages and friends past and yet to
come. Meet and good night with crew of ‘Sea Tramp’.
Hitched from Benedot to Quimper very nice French garcon picked us up and
suggested we meet again later in the evening for a lift back to the boat. We
spent a very worthwhile few hours in Quimper and met our lift again and back
to boat.
All ports in France provide huge emphasis on the sail training of children,
rafts of six year olds being towed out to sea each in their sail boats under
the watchful eye of their tutors, it is very inspiring.
6th June
Wet and gusty sail to the walled and fortified city of Concarneau. great
walks, much window shopping, bursar finds great self restraint. Always in
France necessary to keep eye out for Vedettes (local fishing half deckers)
with verve, and ferries with panache, when entering or leaving harbours
their engines only run at full power.
8th June
Full sail and good weather to Ile de Groix . (A must to be visited Isle in
South Brittany). Take French yacht ,with engine failure, in tow at entrance,
tricky manovering then remove battery and help get their engine started. Two
more boats get towed in later not a great day for engines.
9th June
Forecast good NNW3/4 ,set for Spain (round three). Reality SW5 on the
nose,rain and cold, try beating into same for a few hours, hit pots, caught,
cut lines, feel guilty, change course for Belle Ile. He who fights and runs
away will live to fight another day. No charts, luck turns, weather clears
,find harbour of Le Palis. Tie at buoys fore and aft. Eat out, Kay discusses
music with manager.
10th June
Baro up, forecast good, (round four ) away at 09.10 for Spain, 325nm.to
SW. Few hours under engine wind fills in from N NW red sunset, starry
night, all looks well.
11th June
146 miles run, 168.8 to way point, Cabo Prior. Blue sky and fair jollie
breeze all day. Forecast of gale at night north of the capes darkens the
mood of the ship, apprehension spreads. Night very dark, no ships, no stars,
voyaging is the venture of the uncertain. Pylades sails in magnificent
fashion, self-steering plays a blinder. The dawn brings light in many ways,
blue sky, big increase in wind and sea. Now F7 and all reefed, flying. At
08.45 the great north capes of Spain sighted. Buzzed by light aircraft,
we’re sure it’s the King of Spain.
12thJune
Enter to La Coruna in very fresh conditions, tie at 15.15 hearts very light,
celebrations. La Coruna a fabulous city in north west Galicia with much to
delight the architectural eye and pallet and we are very taken with the
Spanish people. Little or no English spoken by the natives and they appear
not to comprehend our Spanish !! cannot understand why ! All makes for mucho
craic.
15th June
A week sailing around the Ria of La Coruna, pay our respects in the ports
of; Ares- a bit down a heel. Redes very much the post card village with
lemon trees very pretty and orange trees. Sipping wine in the café bar in
the company of two wonderful old men from the village and a sleeping dog
back to the barco for dinner.
On to Sada/Fontan- what road engineers and grotty architecture can do to
what was once probably a lovely village. Patrice, the girl from Marina
office offers us lift to Betanzos old Roman town we spend afternoon
there and return by bus to Sada/Fontan and to a great late night in the best
of company, an ex lawyer turned artist\bar owner, much influnced by Miro and
Picasso.
Left Sada/Fontan for El Ferroll Spain’s largest naval base and birthplace
of Franco. Anchor off. Drinks in slimeball’s café. Two goods days here and
at Castillo de san Felipe swimming and sun bathing and writing this diary.
On our last morning here we went for a swim before breakfast and to take
some photos in the Castillo on our way back we see Pylades in armed combat
with a fishing boat her anchor had dragged back on the moored boat and
there was a boxing match in progress our paddling increased to olympic
standards as we rushed on to separate the quarrelling barcos.
We are now going back to La Coruna (Spanish Armada left for Irelandes from
here) to collect our GPS which went partially down just out of Malahide and
which we have sent to UK for fixing and also Eddie is sending the camera
and mouse a pleasure to spend a few more days in this town with its
beautiful squares and glassed-in balconies.
Adios amigos
Hasta luego
K, Fergus and Pylades