Pylades Millenium Cruise ; Part 2
Hi there,
Friday 26 August, Cadiz.
Here is the update on our diary.
Happy reading,
Fergus, Kay and Pylades
23rd June
St Johns night in La Coruna, spectacular with fireworks and bonfires, the
scent of burning timber fills the streets. Many similarities here in the
observance of this night with the west coasts of Ireland and Scotland - the
remote past casting its shadows outward from the fires - the Celtic trail.
Through the narrow streets colourful costumed marching bands flow past. We
join the celebrations wandering the back streets sliding into dimly lit
wine/tapas bars.
24th June
Exit La Coruna and its ria on a sunny day with a fair breeze. The huge sail
training ship 'Don Sebastian' had just left before us to a twenty-one gun
salute from the city and which they answered with what appeared to be an
endless shelling of the port. The Spanish love this deafening din or maybe
too much celebration left crew of Pylades sensitive to noise.
The sunny day mutated to a pea-soup fog within a few miles of exit, Ferg
stares at radar Kay stares at sea, no strikes. Radar on short range, we
discover, even shows up fishermans pot markers which caused some
consternation at first,'two boats to port, one dead ahead, one to
starboard', all pots, it took a bit of a panic to discover this. Navigation
along the Spanish coast requires some degree of concentration, many shoals
and dangers up to five miles off with hardly a marker in sight. As much as
the French saturate their dangers with marks the Spanish do not. Perhaps
this why it is called the ` Costa de le Morte' (coast of death) many ships
without modern electronic navigation did alas find the shoals.
25th-30th June
Laxe or Lage in the Ria de Corme y Lage, a lovely small Galician fishing
village. Men and women work by the pier hauling their catches - cleaning and
selling. Mending nets in small sheds. Many walks undertaken along the
coast, some rock-climbing grade VS (simple not severe), much swimming, water
warmer than ever experienced before. On the hill overlooking the village a
small locked church, in front a very hot glass case each full of lighting
long-burn candles, one for each boat in the village. The graveyard a high
walled and soul-proof enclosure packed full of high rise crypts, five high
with elaborate inscriptions and decorations. They lie as they lived, high
rise and high density.
We drink in Café Mirador with some boat people from Holland and UK some vow
to find their place in the sun and 'never go back to cold climates, must
grow old and pass ,not hunched over fire' . We have heard this many times
before on this trip. Would we, on the other hand, miss the razor sharp cold
steel rain in your face as you round Black Head with rack and rain squalls
as we run for shelter in Galway Bay from the Arans - something of the
spirit of the place and weather which gets to your soul . we think ????
But one or both of us may revisit this thought later in the trip. But it
raises interesting pub talk questions on identity and whether one needs a
cultural or home base, or just roam the seas seeking the fleeting company of
your fellow travellers!
One Jose Manuel Pato Gonzalez, Presidente, Club Nautico - Lage, arrives with
much gusto. Yate Irelande and Yates from Nederland and Anglaise most
welcome, many photographs shown, many photographs taken, 'your problem is my
problem'. Many drinks. By the end of that long night Il Presidente has all
our problems and I would think mucho head next day - we did not see him
again.
Fergus and Kay for swim first thing next morning - what seemed like a simple
event turns cockup. Dingying ashore a rope catches the outboard we tip the
engine to clear same, petrol floods the dingy ,we reach the beach and
commence the swim with that being watched feeling - DOLPHINs - right in
near the beach, although in theory safe, their size and power is daunting.
Finally on returning through the surf, Kay so busy on Dolphin watch
missed her que boarding the dingy, and was dumped in the surf. En sais
jamais !!
Mick from Cork rows alongside, 'J'sus its great to see de flag.' He joined
us for a cup of Barry's and a bit of the Ma's cake. He was crewing on a
Dutch yacht called Lemon the crew of two New Zealand lads and one Dutch girl
and the bould Mick. A steel boat on a slow passage back to New Zealand
'bout five yars sport' no problem mate! Many enjoyable sessions with Lemon
over the next few days.
Baro drops wind goes SW and blows, we stay many days great walking along
the Spanish coastline and farmlands, small scale tillage farming with the
keeping of hens which pick on the streets and hedgerows. All large sale
farming and dairy herds are inland we are informed.
30th June
Leave Laxe and anchor Camarinas, Fergus dons full oilskins, leather gloves,
goggles, armed with knife and scissors, grab two sea gulls caught in fishing
lines and cuts them free. Increases the feel good factor.
Anchor off the yacht club pontoon - LDC (long distance cruisers) anchor off
when possible as part of the overall budget of the trip but in this case as
the SW's set in we and our neighbouring boats developed a cosy community
spirit and had many good sessions in this, the nicest yacht club yet, and
indeed all of us at one stage or other ended tying up at the pontoon - in
our case to head off back to La Coruna to collect Post Restante, camera,
mouse, GPS. Then jiminey whizz off to Santiago de Compostela, a World
Heritage City and great pilgrim city - to quote a pilgrim's guide of 1130
"the heart of whoever beholds this city will swell with pleasure and
wondrous enjoyment at its variety and greatness." A city very impressive of
church and street built no doubt on the plunder and gold of the new world.
The streets teem with fresh faced pilgrims with sore feet who have tramped
in from at least 100miles to gain the 'Compostela' a guaranteed direct no
questions asked entry to heaven. Worth considering perhaps !. The Irish
pilgrims to this city date back hundreds of years with ships leaving from
Galway, Dingle, Waterford and James Gate in Dublin to land their pilgrims at
Coruna for the onward walk to Santiago.
7th July
Harbouritis setting in at Camarinas. A very fine sail in a fresh NE'ly
Great excitement as we round Cape Finistere, wind eases and a calm hot day
envelops.
Telephone call from Brian Thunder in Dublin and news of very serious
accident to Mik of 'Theatre of Fire' the mood of the ship darkens and we
concentrate our best wishes. We anchor at beach Ensenada del Sardineiro.
Many gams with other anchored yachties, swimming and a dive, not great
underwater vis. Mosquitos make inaugural visit! These lads were to make many
visits over the next while.
9th July
Tie at Muros a fabulous town, best so far, (have we said this before ???)
eat and drink in the most wonderful squares. Children skipping , the young
tigers rev theirs scooters and pose with much machismo. Crash helmets are
worn on the arm only.
Patsy O' Brien who had crewed on the last 'Pylades' looks out from her rooms
and spots us below in the harbour, a chance of vast proportions, the craic
continues until 0400.
13thJuly
Portosin, not a great town, a very marina marina We paint the decks. Very
bad news from Dublin, Mik died at 02.10 this morning. A bright light goes
out, many tears. Our thoughts go to Maria. Work hard on the boat all day.
The most magnificent sunset since we have been on the Spanish coast lifts
our spirits and we drink a toast to our dear departed.
14th July
Caraminal, anchor off, do town. Back on board for dinner but before we
finish dining, the wind rises, anchorage becomes exposed, depths falling
faster than allowed for on high spring tide. Must do a runner, just as
anchor breaks out, fisherman speeds out and warns anchorage might become
untenable, gratis amigo! Steam hard for Cabo de Cruz and better anchorage
make it just before dark. Small country town, tiny shops, very friendly
people.
15th July
Villa Garcia a very large town proves to be far better than predicted by a
sometimes very odd pilot. A town of many markets and not failing in
gastronomy. Much pulpo, (octopus) Calamaris (squid) and other such
consumed. We order local cuisine on last night and end up with two burgers.
Really must take up Spanish classes.
17th
A sail to dream about, 32 miles of every point of sailing in a warm off
shore force 3.5 wind, sun and calm sea. Anchor at Cambarro all appeared
quite for the first ten minutes. A 40ft highly decorative fishing boat
passes close by with flags and buntings strung from every quarter and huge
swathes of garlands forming an enclosure for the statue of the Virgin De
Carmen. In the space of a few minutes the sea around us was teaming with all
the fishing boats of the area all in similar regalia. All packed with
people. One carried the police band, all sounding their whistles and horns.
One drifts down and light impact with Pylades.
Pylades immediately dresses with every flag on board, Ferg plays box to
passing fleet - much appreciation, fleet goes on procession all around the
bay, arrives back to thunderous bombas. ??. These bombas which we had
thought was gunfire in the hills of the rias was in fact the distant
villages firing maroons (bombas) announcing fiestas, a method of
communication which goes back,we were told, to the civil war.
That night in town two girl bands entertain with surplus amplification. The
old town is a most fascinating labyrinth of tiny lanes, squares and
tavernas. We follow two men with a bundle of bombas down the pier, each
rocket consists of the rod about five feet long with the business end on top
the size of a Christmas candle. One man holds taper and the other hands him
the rocket and to our astonishment holding the rocket in his hand with a
stance akin to a matador, he touches off the taper. It leave his hand with
a flash at a zillion miles a second to explode with a deafening crack about
500 metres above his head, this is repeated about every two seconds for a
few minutes. Health and safety have no big impact in Spain yet.
18thJuly
The deserted Isles of Cies were not that deserted being only eight miles
from Vigo and a Sunday to boot. Here we were told that in 60AC the Herminios
Celts sought refuge from Julius Caesar who hovered inside in the bay of
Vigo.
When the multitudes had left by ferry and motor boat, the clean sweep of
the beach, the crystal clear waters and the rising hills forested with gum
and pine trees emerged. Some lightly challenging walks along the high ridges
and a visit to the high lighthouse on MontaFaro were very worthwhile.
At night a mighty display of fireworks from the City of Vigo which lay to
the east.
21th July
Drift and motor down on Virgo, which evolves out of the heat haze. We cram
into the marina. Heat of a kind which we from north of the 50th parallel
would not be used to, envelopes the city and the boat. The sun awning and
forward wind scoop are erected, items we joked about become essential tools
for existence.
Much sight seeing and tourist type activity for a few days in the city.
Ripped off in a very rustic ( run down and rip off) part of the city. One
more pulpo and its back to Ronald McDonald.
23rd July
Bayona our last stop in Northern Spain, we anchor off, great advantage is
one can jump over the side to cool off. We drink in a great little bar,
white wine of the best quality from white porcelain dishes. Extremely cheap.
Ciaran Giles a reporter late of Dublin and now working and living in Madrid
spends night on board. Great meal and conversations, Ciaran explains much
about Spain and its customs.
26th July
Spanish courtesy flag down, Portuguese flag raised at 15.30 as we sail over
the border, flying fish sighted, must be getting south. Tie at Viana de
Castella. A very beautiful town which grew on discoveries and international
trade from the 15th century on. Guarda Fiscal board within minutes of
landing. Many forms, ships papers, passports - Portugal suffers from a
surfeit of useless bureaucracy, in some of the harbours three separate
authorities would board and all insist on separate form filling.
We do the town. The modern architecture of Portugal strikes as being of much
higher quality than that of Spain. We had been told that most of the
intellectuals, poets, writers and architects had fled Spain during the
Franco years and the philistines had run riot in the country.
A woeful band with the most powerful amplification starts up near the marina
at midnight and 'entertains' until 04.00 - electric power has a lot to
answer for. Walk up many thousand steps the next day to a church perched
high on the hill above the town a very fascist triumpilist piece of
Architecture, built during the reign of Salazar,
28th July
Exit in thick fog which clears after a few hours - a fine breeze from the
right quarter and a day to run forever down the Portuguese coast. Anchor at
Leixos and dine aboard 'Lemon'. Good to meet them again. Much rolling at
night with wash from passing vessels.
Tie at marina after a few days o anchor and bus to Oporto a fascinating city
- we do a fast walk about and hightail it back to Lexos, eat in a Italian
restaurant - excellent. Bad mistake not to have taken the boat into the city
despite the difficulties. It is never the same going in by bus.
1st August
Very damp foggy morn with radarless English yacht Sestina close behind we
slow motor out to sea. U2 blast from the cockpit speakers - Bono still
hasn't found what he is looking for - neither have we - we are looking for
some pots to port. Vis clears at midday and we roll on, flying fish again.
Into Figueira da Foz at 18.00 French yacht wont let us tie beside them -
Customs insist we go in ! French say NON NON - so we circle - Customs
shouting at us to come in and man in rowing boat starts shouting with wild
gesticulations have no idea why - it takes a while but French leave and we
approach again. Kay offers rope to Guard waiting for us, he says he
doesn't do knots and backs off, we miss the moment and try again, many forms
later with Customs ag tabhairt amach over the French and explaining that he
doesn't know how to tie knots we are allowed go to our berth. Portuguese
Ambassador to Ireland spots flag and arrives, much talk takes photos of
boat says he loves Galway.
Another well-amplified singer at the very close cafe goes well into the
night, must get a gun.
4th August
Big swell on the bar exit of Figueira da Foz, arrive Nazare, a dash to the
town for a quick walk about, lights in the bay from fisher folk lamping
fish, looks great. This town is built on a fault and the depths entering the
harbour are so deep the depth meter cannot show them. We are told they
regularly have small earth tremors - I remember reading of Lisbon in 1755
and silently think "let me out of here man" . The town is on two levels the
sea level section with its tacky front but magical back streets full of
small restaurants and houses and high up the cliffs the other town -
accessed by a lift is well worth a visit. It citizens have a claim to
Phoenician origin, it's a tourist town but keeps its old atmosphere.
Sleepless night - fishermen unloading catch start unsilenced air-cooled
engine after midnight and run same for a few hours the noise is deafening.
Most of the crews are in their cockpits - we vow to form the Nazare 6 (6
boats tied up) - we wont pay our dues - that'll show them.
But the marina lads are well ahead of us . early the following morning
they come to each boat apologising and asking for our help !!! "would we
fill in a complaint form" and say they will interview the skipper of the
offending vessel when he arrives. ''Some time I think the fisherman he
might not like yachts and do it deliberately,! He now asleep in bed'
(Actually many of the Portuguese have good English, dam sight better than
our Portuguese.) We are all eating out of their hands, offering advice and
paying our dues. Nice yachties …..
5th August
Peniche - our pilot says do not miss this town - we say YES you can. Holiday
town with very large market selling all kinds of goods no one needs and
again the sound barrier is being broken one lady is auctioning blankets at
5000 watts - you cannot stand within a few hundred yards without risking
permanent hearing defects. The harbour and our unfortunate marina which is
about half a mile away echoes to the din and that is UNTIL THE OPEN AIR
DISCO STARTS AT MIDNIGHT ..... You might say we are cranks but most of our
fellow sailors had similar opinions - perhaps it has something to do with
being out in the ocean away from land noises that makes us more sensitive
!!! Nevertheless we have a great night at a BBQ on Lemon, joined by some
surfers. After a lot of vino . What noise ???
Take on diesel after our third form filling period with various very polite
police. Eddie Cleary joins boat.
10th August
From Cascais we approach the amazing city of LISBON the approach is awesome
the suspension bridge spanning a mile wide Tagus with its roar of traffic
and wind in the suspension wires leave us reeling. This city ruled by the
Moors for 300 years until 1147 would justify many weeks of investigation and
many parts of it are truly wonderful. Our first morning in Lisbon is
eclipse morning - we join many people in the main square looking up at the
sun through mad glasses being passed around and as we tour the city everyone
is following the eclipse and handing us these mad specs. We exhaust
ourselves trying to whiz the city in three days. The most charming
Christina Pereira a journalist with API joins us one evening and takes us
into the Alfama district where we dine in a great setting much conversation
and our knowledge of Portugal is deeply enriched.
13th August
Exit the Tagus in boisterous conditions, much reefing. A fine sail to
Sesimbra - and we enter Sesimbra in "excited" conditions - Kay gets mucho
frighto entering this harbour when the depth shows 7 feet - she gibes the
boat in an attempt to get back into deep water - although the chart and
pilot showed this to be a very deep area the depth meter was reading 7 feet
!!!! the human factor took over !!!! Suffice to say K got an EEEARFUL
from the skipper. We tie at fisherman's warf , harbour water clean enough
for swimming. Go for many pints in town, wonderful music by an orchestra
lightly amplified, civilisation still can appear.
4th August.
Sines - the birthplace of Vasco da Gama. Big celebration on the 15th August
- statue of Virgin carried through the streets, we watch from the cockpit
fireworks and music until the late hours.
5th August
Round Cabo St.Vincent turn east, baro falls wind rises run to Baleeira,
blows hard all night scudding clouds, holding must be good. On to Alvor a
most tricky shallow entrance much work going on in town, we walk out to
beach in morn this (we are told) is one of the best beaches in the Algarve,
it must be as the world and its mother were there - we grab a quick dip and
run.
17th August
Entrance up the swampland to Faro very different. Anchor in pool just off
the town at the end of the airport runway, ideal place for plane spotters,
swimming in wonderful water. This town is worth a visit. We are collected by
Sonia Bastiannse just adjacent the dingy dock and brought to the Four
Seasons Fairways, a club with which Kay had connections in her working days.
We are given a tour of the club which boasts an excellent golf course and
beautiful villas - it is situated in what is known at the "golden triangle"
of Portugal and Spain and maybe even Europe. We are wined and dined by
Michael and Sonia Bastiaanse in a most hospitable and sumptuous manner in
the finest of company. On our way back to the boat we are joined by a fish
which jumped into the dingy - Eddie grabs the fish and sends it back to the
deep. Eaten enough fish for one night. Great night.
19th August
With much ceremony the Portuguese flag comes down and Spain is again entered
After a night in Isla Christina and two nights in Chipiona. We steam up
the Guadalquivir towards the great city of Seville. Catching the tide at
06.00 the first few miles of lights are picked up on the river before the
stunning orange dawn spreads over what look like an African veldt. Wild hogs
roam on the west bank, The huge Imperial Eagle spirals over head, Great
Egret and White Storks swoop by. The river boils with mud it constantly
looks like its a foot deep, watching marks we slowly make our way 55miles
upriver through the most deserted area in Europe. Tumbled and bleached
haciendas on the banks crumble into the hot dust. The air simmers in the
withering heat. 43deg. as the locks into Seville are passed, unmarked rock
is struck - Eddie is thrown to the deck - skip gets bashed. Later dive on
keel reveals just scratch damage. Steel is your only man.
The sights of Seville, a sophisticated city, are taken in with many calls
to air-conditioned shops and pubs. The cathedral is unbelievable but as far
as Ferg is concerned its magnificent gothic space has been debased by a
surfeit of wealth. Eddie leaves for cooler climes the heat drives us out of
the city after two days.
Fergus Kay Pylades