Pylades Diary , November

Pylades Millenium Cruise : Part 4 “fresh water we did take on board 10,000 gallons or more in case we’d run short going to New York far away from the shamrock shore” November 9. After another seemingly endless stock up we are almost ready to leave when we hear the bad news about our proposed house site in Clare. The appeal against us has been successful. Tears, wine and a verse of HOMLESS HOMELESS and we recommence the fight. Santa Cruz, Tenerife to Cape Verde Islands : distance 868 miles. We make our excuses and exit Santa Cruz with slight sea, NE 3 to 4. The wind made its excuses, left us after a few hours and our first two days were spent motoring in idyllic conditions of blue sunny sky days followed by starry nights with Mr. Moon accompanying us. These nights gave us the most intensive phosphorescence ever, a constant flashing of a powerful torch on both sides of the boat at each wave. Alas, there’s always a price, this one being we needed wind as we do not carry enough fuel to complete a journey of this length. So we asked the gods for wind, they obliged us on the third day when we got NE 3-4 for the remainder of our journey. A most unusual securite alert over the Navtex, any ship sighting a swarm of locusts to report in.!! Fishing was more successful than anticipated, catching such exotic varieties as Tuna, Dorade and Wahoo. Our arsenal consisted of a line over the stern attached with an orange rubber squid and hook.. We also had in our store a very costly and flashy looking lure, with which we caught nothing. All fish took the bait between 16.00 and 17.00. The drill for taking our catch on board - Fergus stood on the stern with a gaff in hand, Jay pulled in the unfortunate, Sarah behind Fergus with a bottle of whiskey and K behind Sarah with a chopping board, knife, bucket. Once the catch was landed a shot of whiskey was delivered to its gills, this had the effect of calming the poor fish, then the inevitable ensued. We had many superb meals from the ocean. Pylades rushed through the seas for 6 days and nights, we swam when conditions were calm in 13,000ft deep crystal clear waters , we were in company with flying fish, dolphins, whales. We saw turtles, they looked so out of place making their way to don’t know where, it is easier to imagine them on land than sea. Watch systems now much easier with four on board, giving a three-hour night watch each.. Despite this, we spotted one other boat during the entire trip. CAPE VERDE ISLANDS 15th November1999 At the crossroads of the three continents that border the Atlantic, the archipelago of Cape Verde, composing ten islands, is located 450km off the coast of Senegal. We anchored at Mindelo on the isle of St. Vincent. This was Africa. a different world. Memories of Mindelo , primary school children with winning smiles amused by our presence, who would come up to you and hand you a flower, beautiful women dressed in exotically coloured clothes with red or blue basins on their heads carrying Tuna fish or fruit, World War 2 trucks lined up and used as taxis, men lined up at the port office waiting for a day’s work, young boys waiting for us asking Escudos Senhora, Escudos. A fish market run with the blood of tuna and thick with flies, a fruit market, one of the most colourful and busy yet visited, lots and lots of barber shops where we were told the real business was discussed. A man in the market says Welcome to Africa. 17th November 1999 Rupert Tildesley, Sarah’s boyfriend, arrives, pints, sessions and a Jump Up on Julios ship, which acted as a pontoon, Julio organised food, rum cocktails, music, and a great night. We got charts to copy from adjacent Austrian boat (Somehow there were no charts of Cape Verde on board only discovered as we approached same.) All the six Austrians on board managed to get robbed twice whilst skinny dipping in the early hours, not very street wise perhaps. 20th November Exit Mindelo, fresh conditions on the nose thwart our plans for Ilha de Sao Nicolau and we pull at the deserted Island of St. Luzia, a very good thing too. This was one of the finest anchorages so far, miles of magnificent deserted beaches, hills to climb,F&K get to highest point. Great fun landing the dingy in the surf. About ten swims a day in water of 25deg . Snorkeling around some rocks. German yachtsman enquired had we seen any of the large sharks known to the waters around, we had not, but because he was missing toes from both feet we became nervous swimmers. In a ruined village, a Well had been dug to about 25ft, its drizsabone bottom said it all. Abandoned fields and plantations and a single grave. 22nd November Tarrafal on Ilha de Santiago.. A wonderful night sail from St. Luiza, our early morning arrival had us in the middle of the local fishing boats. These were small colourful boats with 2 men in each and 2or3 bigger boats bedecked like a wedding cake with 3 tiers and about 10 men and boys standing on the different levels. They circled the small bay again and again the top tier calling out when fish were sighted. Later they called to us for magazines, cigarettes, clothes or drink, we gave them a FHM magazine they thanked us and left. Beachboys and dingy minders are very persistent, sailors and yachts are a potential source of wealth and these beautiful kids will sit on a tourist with their chat and smiles until like the starfish with the mussel, we crack. Jay is accosted in the hills by giant spiders and a monkey. Fergus and Kay try for many hours to get fresh water, no luck. We will never take water for granted again. If Ireland could only swap some of its abundant supplies for sunshine. We had signed an undertaking on entering Cape Verde that the boat would not be unguarded at night. Jay minds boat, rest of us taken to dinner by Rupert, after the usual welcome by the boat boys and their accompanying us to the restaurant we have a super meal and were surprised that the presence of giant cockroaches , which ate anything that hit the floor, did not bother us [maybe the wine had something to do with I !!} 25th November Cidade Velha, entering the bay no boat of any kind on anchor combined with a big surging swell did not inspire confidence, we start to back off. A small fishing boat appears indicates where to anchor and we do,Ferg dives, yes we are on sand holding good. We land through surf on rocky beach we are getting better at this. Children mind dingy, we drink sundowners in tiny thatched seafront bar the only one, child walks through towing a goat. This tiny town had once been the capital city of Cape Verde, had a large cathedral now in ruins, the town was attacked by Spain in 1581, Drake in 1585, the Dutch later and finally the French in1712, the unfortunate inhabitants got the message and moved the capital to Praia. The legacy of European involvement in Africa was generally such that it would ill behove criticism if the inhabitants of this dark continent strung up whitey at every opportunity. 26th November Motor seven miles to Praia, the capital. A town with a prominent colonial past Part of this legacy and apparent main source of employment, must be the many different branches of armed might, both military and police, each with their own barracks and armed sentries together with the immigration police, Guarda Fiscal, port police, whose only solace in life is the harassment of travelers. For all that during a very formal, if somewhat self-conscious changing of the guard , the entire guard smiled and waved at us. The main entertainment for the boys of the town were football and swimming from dawn to dusk, dozens of youths playing ball on the local pier where half the game was played on land and spring themselves into the sea to play the other half. Local man from yacht club sails out in an Optimist, introduces himself as Sgt.Pepper “ I am beetles zealot, this is my son Paul, my other son John Lennon will be over in a while” he was too and a most charming young man, took a fancy to Sarah.. 29th November Ilha Brava, the most southwesterly of the islands. We all go ashore at Porto de Agua, rough landing through surf. Buy two cokes in bar, get four free showers, heaven. We go to wash clothes at the local public wash house. Water has been shut off. Ricardo arrives, assesses our potential for some trekking and leads up the hills, we behold a water pipe tapped into a river and belching forth FRESH WATER. We wash and wash and wash our clothes, much amusement is gained by the locals to see men doing the washing, this is definitely not in.!! Jay offers payment to Ricardo for his time and help, which he refuses but asks for pens and pencils for the school, Jay buys 20 pencils in the shop. Swimming and snorkeling - fantastic, just so many new species / cant identify them.. Big altercation all night with French yacht which has anchored too close. We assume tangle and cannot haul or dive at night Anchor watch and many push offs, in the darkness we chat all night and exchange stories, they tell of a recent encounter with armed pirates off coast of Senegal, they thought they were done for. Very scary and more and more we are hearing these stories !!. Next morning dive reveals no tangle with anchors, just too close. Frenchman moves. 1st December Forecasts say the Trade Winds have not settled, we talk to French Met man on yacht he says he will not go for a few more days, It’s a lottery out there it might go right for you, we feel our time is up. There are no more harbours to hide in, our excuses have run out. We secure all and prepare for passage. Waypoint 2.5 mile south of Barbados, distance 2029 miles, anchors away, sails up. All four other yachts in the anchorage guess what we are up to and sound their fog horns in salute we answer back our acknowledgement, and we’re gone. On the road again…… ATLANTIC PASSAGE 1st to 16th December. Two hours out and broadreaching at 7kts the vang block shears, new one installed an hour later.The routine of seagoing begins to establish. Main topics are wind and dinner. Watches are four, three hour watches from eight in the evening to eight in the morning, Skipper on call at all times for any close encounter or crises. Trade winds die day two, engine on - off for two days. Having done a major revamp of the aerial on the SSB receiver we start to pick up “Herb” an amateur radio broadcaster met man, he gives detailed forecasts and analysis for weather all over the Atlantic.We become avid fans. Herb says there are many fronts, lows, tropical convergence areas,etc. in our path and blocking the development of the Trades. He is right on every count. Boats to the north are doing worse. Many days of dark grey cloud and even darker nights, no sun, no stars, light winds. Eight days out and the mother and father of an electrical storm, all aerials and electronic gadgets unplugged. Assume the electronic compass is hit when we note the boat is 180deg off course, BUT NO, just massive wind shifts. Rain arrives of hosepipe velocity. Jay who is in the cockpit with full rain gear and harnessed. Is somewhat taken aback when Kay and Ferg leap naked into the cockpit together with shampoos and soap. This was a most surreal shower lit by almost continuos lightening flashes. Such an abundance of fresh water could not go unused The wind goes from zero to reefing time in seconds. Boat just to the north reports knockdown and damage in sixty knots of wind. Next day skipper of same has suspected heart attack and a mid-Atlantic rescue plan goes into action. A nurse from another yacht rendezvous and she boards and remains with the patient for the remainder of the journey. Another yacht heads to the stricken boat and lands crew to bring the yacht, skipper and his wife to the Caribbean – such help in the conditions at the time prevailing in the middle of the Atlantic are amazing and admirable. A Norwegian boat picks up two man overboards !!! The first had been in the water for 16 hours and conditions were too bad for his return his own boat, the second was a castaway from a commercial boat !!!! details sketchy, both were taken to the Caribbean. We spent most of our days, bracing the rough seas, wondering where the trades were, fishing and catching same. Fergus being very successful with a 3 foot Dorade and later that night whilst he lay on his bed asleep he caught a flying fish !! the fish hurled itself in the front hatch landed on Fergus face, he caught it and hurled it back to the deep leaving behind its scaly trails. The last three days the trades come 20knots from the east, Pylades runs 160 miles per day, midnight on the 16th December 1999 faint glow of lights sighted dead ahead, Barbados.!! The two major lighthouses not working, we approach with caution. At 05.00 permission granted to enter the deep water harbour and clear in to the land of “No woman no cry” The eagle has landed. We have crossed. With love and best wishes to all. HAPPY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR Fergus, Kay and Pylades ................................................................... Yacht Pylades Fergus Quinlan & Kay Cronin Millinium Cruise Ports of Call and Distance run Exit Port Date Dist.Run Comments IRELAND Malahide 14\5\99 98 Time to go WALES Aberdovey 16\5\99 180 Smiling Sarah, ENGLAND Scilly Isles 19\5\99 40 Rough, glad to be in. Penzance 22\5\99 127 No Pirates FRANCE Camart Sumar 25\5\99 25 Vive La France Ste Evett 26\5\99 3 Free mooring Audern 31\5\99 3 Magnifique St Evett 31\5\99 37 Pay for mooring Loctudy 2\6\99 6 Avoid Benodet 4\6\99 1 Great Santa Marine 6\6\99 11 Best French Pub ever Concarneu 8\6\99 27 Yes Ile de Croix 9\6\99 31 Should spend more time here Belle Ile 10\6\99 320 Ditto SPAIN La Coruna 15\6\99 9 Great place to celebrate Ares 17\6\99 2 God help us Redes 18\6\99 4 Great improvement Sada Fontan 19\6\99 11 Contradictions El Ferrol 21\6\99 2 Tie up next time San Felipe 22\6\99 8 Dragging La Coruna 24\6\99 37 Same again Lage 30\6\99 18 Sun, Swim, people vg. Camarines 7\7\99 27 Meeting place Ensala de Sardinera 9\7\99 22 Quite Muros 12\7\99 5 Best Town Portosin 14\7\99 37 Whatever Total run1091 Caraminal 14\7\99 2 Run for shelter Cabo Cruz 15\7\99 6 Shelter Villa Garcia 17\7\99 29 Much better than expected Combarra 18\7\99 17 Bombas Isles of Cis 21\7\99 8 Beautiful anchorage Vigo 23\7\99 12 Hot City Bayona 26\7\99 32 A lot to offer PORTUGAL Viana de Castela 28\7\99 32 Officialdom Leixios 1\8\99 66 Bus to Oporto Figara de Foz 4\8\99 38 Big band counry Nazare 5\8\99 25 Earth fault Peniche 9\8\99 40 Miss it Cascais 10\8\99 8 Waiting Lisbon 13\8\99 35 Gob smacked, a few weeks req Sesimbra 14\8\99 32 Pints apleanty Sines 15\8\99 66 Noise apleanty Baleeira 16\8\99 18 Windy, stay on ship Alvor 17\8\99 46 Shoal water NERVES Faro 19\8\99 32 Hospitality Isla Cristina 20\8\99 50 Marina friendly Chipona 22\8\99 55 On the tear, nice town Saville 24\8\99 49 Very Very hot. Bonanza 25\8\99 28 Wild hogs Cadiz 29\8\99 30 A City to live in Barbate 30\8\99 38 Concrete GIBRALTAR UK Gibralar 3\9\99 25 Much better than expected MOROCCO Smir 5\9\99 13 Very different SPAIN Cueta 8\9\99 589 Needs love MADERIA Portugal Porto Santo 20\9\99 42 Fabulous Funchal 6\10\99 287 GET OUT !, but great. CANARIES Spain Isls Graciosa 18\10\99 25 Isle of dreams Arrecife 21\10\99 12 Welcome Scruffy Porto Calero 23\10\99 10 Very effficent Playa Blanco 24\10\99 10 Restless Porto Calero 26\10\99 148 Shelter Santa Cruz 9\11\99 868 Sarah & Jay Total run 3914 CAPE VERDE ISLANDS Mindelo 20\11\99 48 Poverty with smiles Sta Luzia 22\11\99 115 Stay for ever Tarrafal 25\11\99 28 Boat boys Cidade Velha 26\11\99 7 Africa Praia 29\11\99 77 Escudos senhora !! Ilha Brava 1\12\99 2039 Water BARBADOS Bridgetown 6228 RUM