HI FOLKS,
Hope your are all in good fettle, herewith Pylades latest adventures !!!
PYLADES MILLINIUM CRUISE PART SIX
LEEWARDS, VIRGIN ISLANDS, USA.
3rd March 2000
The West Indians say that there is only one island in the Caribbean that
Columbus would still recognize and that is Dominica with its rugged
resistance to domestication, it was to be our next stop. Clarence and Greg
met us a half a mile out and we agreed to take their mooring south of the
capital of Roseau at a cost of 20$EC (East Caribbean Dollars). One can
anchor free in these areas but a little money spent here and there improves
contact with the local boat boys and aids security. We now always ask the
names of the first boat boys we meet and only deal with them. Roseau with
its wonderful assortment of authentic Caribbean buildings was a short walk
from our anchorage and our customs clearance point..
4th March
Pylades sailing gently along the entire length of Dominica, with wind
coming off the land, waves all of six inches high, sitting in the shade of
the sails we gaze at the lush tropical vegetation of the island. After many
idyllic hours a Jet Ski approaches, the man driving is fishing, he
introduces himself as Elvis, we note that the jet part of the ski has been
replaced with an outboard engine. A deal is struck with him to take us on a
trip up the Indian River in Portsmouth. This unique place the locals
jealously guard, they supplying a guide and boat.
Having just bedded the anchor at Portsmouth, we hear MAYDAY, MAYDAY,
MAYDAY, it was Yacht Schilling, her position about 8 miles from us, they
have recovered one fisherman alive from the water and are searching for
another, we relay their message to coastguard, and are preparing to put to
sea to assist when they radio that they have recovered the second fisherman,
alive and well, both had been in the water about five hours after their
boat had capsized and were very lucky to have been spotted by the passing
"Schilling".
Sunday Morning 8.00 Elvis and his brother Edison arrive and we are carried
in their boat at very high speed to the entrance to the Indian River. The
engine is shut down and Edison rows about a mile up the winding river
through lush tropical vegetation, giving a very quite commentary on the
various plants and predators. He weaves a fish and bird from a strip of leaf
picked from the banks and gives it to Kay. Two hours were spent in the
splendor of this river and in the most serene company of Edison. Later back
at anchor other boat boys arrive selling fruit and with their charming ways
get us to part company with some beers and chocolate
On the way to clear customs at Portsmouth we find ourselves in the midst of
the street carnival, at ten in the morning, the allnight party appears to be
fraying a little with many sleeping on the streets, the band still playing
very loud music from the back of a lorry and colorful dancers all around,
some dancing a kind of sandwich dance, that is one girl in the middle and a
lad at either side of her, this is a very common configuration methinks not
the sort of dancing one would see in the parish hall back home. You can
smell poverty in the streets, but happiness and good humor abound. Here we
talked to a very informed tape seller who sold us Bob Marley's 'Exodus'this
turned out to be our tape of the tour, it captures the essence of the pain,
the rhythm and beauty of black Caribbean.
6th March
An easy down wind sail to the Saintes, a group of French islands 15 miles
North of Dominica, but a million miles away in living conditions, no boat
boys here but plenty of boats. The first night we anchor in a remote bay
with great snorkeling and walking, next day its on to the little town of
Bourg des Saintes. The carnival is also here. While the music of the
carnival in Dominica is Rasta and Reggie, here it sounds military tattoo
and very French. Costumes are fantastic, the dancing much more restrained.
Every person on the island must be partaking in the Craic. We meet Julie and
Steve on 'Dos Tintos'.
This island abounds with Gallic charm, small narrow streets teeming with
minute art galleries, restaurants, patisseries, wonderful walks around the
island, interesting forts to visit. Choice of some splendid beaches for
swimming and snorkeling. We spent a few days doing it all and if one is to
complain it is only at the success of the island, for every morning 3 or 4
ferries drop off hundreds of tourists, it would appear they all hire two
stroke motor scooters and turn heaven into hell until their departure at six
in the evening when heaven returns.
10th March
Our last night in the Saintes we waltzed around the anchorage with a German
charter boat whose anchor became fouled in ours. At dawn Fergus dives and
sorts our their anchor, it had only been dropped a few feet. With wind on
the nose we tacked our way to Pointe a Pitre, Guadeloupe. Clear in with
customs, they never check our clearance papers from Dominica which we had
walked miles to get, do they ever! Does any other country exist to the
French except France! No charges of course. Vive le France!.
Guadeloupe, like Dominica and St. Vincent deserved much more time but with a
month to our proposed departure to the USA we had to plough on, also the
loosing battle against weed and barnacle growth on the hull meant soon we
would have to haul out for anti-fouling.
Pointe a Pitre, capital of Guadeloupe a mixture of old Caribbean and modern
structures. Time is well spent looking at its colorful markets, stylish
women and the architecture with its latter day elegance. On the other side,
a lot of security was noticed, churches with armed guards during the day.
The walk from the anchorage to town, about fifteen minutes, brought us
passed an assortment of twenty to thirty very large and well endowed ladies
sitting in line on white plastic chairs each with a cellular phone and a
bunch of keys all selling their wares, themselves!! And all of this at ten
in the morning. Its and complex and colorful world.
15 March
Depart Guadeloupe via the River Salee at 5am. passing through two opening
bridges in pitch darkness and on to the shallow mosquito infested mangrove
swamps out to sea on the north side. From there through a series of reefs to
the olde worlde town of Port Louis. Only spent one night here, the only
boat on anchor.
16 March
A wild passage to Antigua. Two reefs in the main, lots of squalls but we
made good time to our destination of English Harbour. Anchored off Nelsons
Dockyard, built by the British around the 1700s as one of their main naval
stations in the Caribbean. An interesting place and favourite stop off port
for many yachts. When the wars in the Caribbean resolved themselves around
the late 1800s this dockyard went into decline and disrepair until the
arrival of Commander Vernon Nicholson, a Corkman who sailed in with his wife
and family around the 1950s. It was he who instigated the restoration of
Nelsons Dockyard which is now managed by the National Parks Authority. We
discovered the name 'Pylades' carved on a timber shutter. The date 1889,
that Pylades was a British ship of the squadron built in 1884, details of
here presence here were written up in the Museum.
St. Patrick's day in English Harbour in the company of Steve and Julie from
Dos Tintos, drinking, singing and dancing. We met Taco, a Dutchman from
Toomgraney on Lough Derg who reminded Fergus of his first sail ever on the
previous Pylades, a Sabre 27, and how it changed his life, he has been
sailing since, indeed his presence in Antigua was to repair a recently
purchased steel boat.
A planned visit to Montserrat was halted by predictions of a heavy swell
from the north. Also, the volcano was pouring forth lava and was in an
unstable condition, warnings were being issued that it could blow. We could
see it smoking from where we were anchored. Further north in Antigua in
Deep Harbour, from 25miles away Montserrat paid us a visit in the form of
ash all over our decks. We learned later it had blown a column of ash 30,000
ft into the air.
Last call in Antigua was to the capital, St. John, another example of how a
town can be tattified by the presence of huge cruise ships. Customs proved
to be a bit of a pain here.
23 March
Motor sailing through these beautiful waters with Montserrat to port and the
islands of Saba, Statia, Nevis and Kitts ahead, collectively called the
islands that brush the clouds, we again regret our time constraints, all of
these should be visited, Saba with its pink and red cliffs and 800 steps cut
in the rock, Statia, the trade capital of the Indies in the 1700s, the quiet
and peaceful Nevis with its picturesque houses, Montserrat and its Irish
tradition. St. Kitts, our planned destination is the largest of these
islands, we share our approach with a school of pilot whales.
With SW forecast we reckoned the new marina would provide shelter. We
arrived in the hours of darkness. No lights, something odd going on.
Creeping in we could make out damaged piers and twisted pontoons, the place
was generally shredded. Behind the profile of a few boats people
materialized, lines were taken.We found that a massive investment by St.
Kitts in this marina and a huge docking pier for cruise liners came to this
crumbled end a week before the official opening when hurricane 'Hugo' hit,
pulverizing all the works with forty ton slabs of concrete thrown around
like confetti, the break waters were undermined and breached. Most of the
marina pontoons disappeared.
It was a tragedy for the people who had tried, but they are to forge on and
start rebuilding shortly.
Next morning, the marina manager informs that they are expecting very strong
south westerly winds and he cannot guarantee our safety, he suggests we
consider leaving and if the wind gets very strong he may demand we leave.
Our decision is to stay, more boats run in for shelter, all of us were
thrown around a bit, but thankfully the strong winds do not materialize.
Frank Power, a Corkman and parish priest of St. Kitts spots the flag and
pays us a visit. We dine with him on one of the evenings, we also meet
Sally Papermoon from Wales, skipper of an Oyster 48.5. Sally tells us of her
many trips across the Atlantic, once as skipper of the maxi yacht,
'Creightons Naturally'.
One of the days we took a bus ride, always a delight in the Caribbean,
stopping in little colourful villages, everyone on this most efficient
transport system is both cheery and helpful. We disembark on a country road
and walk through sugar plantations to the base of the 3,700 volcano and
upwards through woodlands and rainforest to the rim and again eat lunch with
the smell of sulfur drifting up from the crater.
29 March
Departing Kitts a well-reefed Pylades ploughed into a very big sea with
severe squalls and torrential rain washing the decks, the crew hiding in the
doghouse. Thirty-nine miles later we anchored in the island of St. Barts.
Governed by France, this pretty island was once the haunt of the infamous
pirate, Montbars a Frenchman so horrified by what the Spanish had done to
the native population decided to avenge them single handed. While enriching
himself became known as "Montbars the exterminator" He and many other
pirates came here to spend their quickly gained fortunes. Not much has
changed, this island is where some of our present day pirates come to buy
expensive houses and spend their loot on the high-priced baubles widely
available on the island, known as the Riviera of the Caribbean.
30 March
With a gentle wind and sunshine Pylades sailed the 12 miles from St. Barts
to St. Maarten. A small island divided between France and the Netherlands.
This was a working visit, we anchored off the main town of Philipsburg in
the Dutch section which teemed with jewelry and knicknack shops to service
the four or five cruise liners visiting daily.
Our ship was hauled out by a very helpful and efficient staff of Bobby's
Marina for cleaning down and anti fouling. Six days scrubbing, sanding and
painting, the work hot and thirsty. In the evenings we adjourned to the
local bars for songs and stories. All told, an expensive week, IR1,000,
part of this being the anti foul paint costing IR400 in this duty free
port!! Pylades looking spick n span with a very clean bottom was dropped
back in the water on 8 April, with a big stock up of food and the cheap
French wines of St. Maarten.
9 April
Exited St. Maarten in fair weather enjoying a starry skied overnight sail
of 112 miles, anchoring at St. Thomas in the US Virgin Islands at 6.50am the
following morning.
The vista was changing. There was a lot of the USA here, many of the boats
were American, the customs we cleared in through were American personnel,
Bill Clinton looked down on us in the immigration office. A full United
States visa is required to visit these islands, even though they are not
part of the union of US states they are a protectorate. But you felt the
real Caribbean was slipping away. Most of the people on the streets were
white, the taxis had stickers with "I'm proud to be a Vietnam Vet". The
currency the US dollar, we were nearing the main land of the greenback.
Anne Korff from Kinvara in Ireland joined us here for a few weeks on
Pylades. Michelle Rohu from Inishowen in County Cork knocked on the side of
the boat. She had been on the lookout all season for Pylades. We spent
three wonderful days between St. Thomas and Rendezvous Bay on the island of
St. John swimming, snorkeling, tubing and BBQing on the beach. Meeting
Michelle who with her boyfriend Tom Sewell and their crew Lennie run a very
happy luxury charter boat in these islands, made our stay in the US Virgin
Islands magical.
14 April
British Virgin Islands, a protectorate of the United Kingdom, a new
jurisdiction and new customs and immigration.
To do both the US Virgin Islands and the BVIs justice one could spend, at
least three months cruising them, some sailors, especially the Americans,
come this way and never leave. There are hundreds of anchorages, we only
visited a handful and those we did visit were delightful, if at times a
little crowded. The swimming and snorkeling always fantastic, despite
slightly scary encounters with Barracuda.
Our time for departure to the USA was nearing, it was sad because we knew
many of the people who had made our time in the Caribbean richer for their
presence would be heading off to different points of the globe and good-byes
were the order of the day. One such couple were Pat and Olivia Murphy from
'Aldebaran' whom we caught up with at Little Harbour in Peter's Island in
the BVIs and were glad to spend a couple of days in their company. They,
heading south in the Caribbean to continue on their world cruise and be
safely placed for the hurricane season.
After a big stock up in Roadtown, Tortola, we headed to the island of Jost
Van Dyke for our last night and to clear out with customs. Finally left the
BVIs, and the Caribbean, on Easter Saturday at 12.00 noon.
22 April
First five days out saw favourable following winds and good runs of about
140 miles per day. Fishing every day with one very large hit which
thankfully came off the line, none taken on board. Night watches now meant
togging out in warm clothes, even socks started to make an appearance (not
since northern Spain had we worn such protection). We ran into a coldfront
which gave us clocking winds, rain and thunder storms.
30th April
The barometer fell all day, a new cold front approached. Reefed down to a
staysail only weobserv a bank of cumulonimbus clouds to the north, each
thunderhead crackling with multi coloured lightening. The horizon had all
the appearance of Dantes Inferno, we dropped the staysail and hoisted a
triple reefed main and hoved-to for six hours. Wind, sea and electrical
activity increased to challenging levels. Kay suffered a severe cut and
bruising after being thrown across the boat, much first aid rendered. The
starboard dodger had been shredded, the life bouy carried away, the dorade
vent swept off the coach roof. With the wind now hard from the north-east
the possibilities of running to Bermuda were discussed as to cross the Gulf
Stream with a contrary wind would be the height of folly. However the next
day the wind eased right off and we motor sailed for nearly two days. This
brought us across the 120 mile wide stream in the most gentle of manners.
Many ships were sighted as we closed the coast.
1st May
The wind fills in from the SW. After 1288miles and nine days out, at 20.05
on the 1st May Kay sights the lights of the USA. Careful navigation was now
the order of the day as 2000 shipwrecks line this small section of the North
Carolina coast. For a few moments we thought we might add to the numbers.
We spoke with US coastguard and they instructed with regard entry procedures
to the USA and details of the channel we were now entering. The following
wind was building a sea which shallowed from out of soundings to a long
dredged beach channel of depth forty feet. A few of the breakers on the
beach ran off and dumped on us pouring water through the galley and cockpit
lights forcing partial broaches. At last over the bar and out of the seas we
breath a sigh of relief, but in pitch darkness and confusion of lights run
aground. Much use of the 50hp engine and a faint smell of burning clutch and
Pylades slides off. We anchor at Beaufort at 23.15 and guzzle wine.
2nd May
Expect a tough time from American customs, the sailors rumored, not so, our
customs man was extremely polite and helpful. Formalities over, a chat
ensued, "you folks believe in gun control ? I sure don't, got seven myself,
some for my work, some for huntin, some for target and a piece I always
carry. There's no property crime in this area cause most folks got guns.
Though they say if ye shoot 'im in the porch drag 'im into the house, then
it gives the bleedin hearts no case."`He felt very sorry for the gardai in
Ireland when we told him that they do not carry a 'piece'. It was one of
those conversations you wished would end as the more it went on the more
animated it became and one worried that it might end with a fast draw and a
demo. At last, our kind customs man left with friendly words. "You Irish
and European folks are very welcome around here. Have a great cruise".
The next few days were spent walking the manicured streets of small-town
America, looking at the manicured cars and people, everywhere the welcomes
are gushing. An enquiry in a restaurant re. internet brought tots of free
beer, a book, hugs, kisses. introductions all around, requests to write?!!.
We were treated to cherry pie and pecan pie and cold jugs. An invitation to
an office party found us in company with many different business people
from the town, from the man who whose grandaunt is to be canonised, to
Lauralee who offered her delicate lily white handshake and the broker who
offered us jobs !!, we escaped and went on the tear.
We were experiencing southern hospitality, "have a nice day" , "anything we
can do for you folks". The only black people we saw were cleaning the
streets. Realising our developing cynicism, we decide to reserve judgement,
study some US history , look and listen.
7th May
All tanks filled with diesel, we began the haul up the intercoastal
waterway, a complex system of interconnecting rivers, canals and bays, this
"inside" passage was to bring us as far as Norfolk in Virgina where we would
enter the Chesapeake. First two stops were Oriental then Belhaven. At
Belhaven we found one of the reoccurring little problems of the US, an
enquiry regarding the whereabouts of the supermarket brought, "up the road
to the gas station turn right and down a few blocks". This turned out to be
quite a hike for most supermarkets are well out of town and are designed to
be got at only by car. When we load up with goodies we find there aint no
busses or taxies in these parts. But with all this sitting around in the
boat one needs the exercise.
8th May
The intercoastal waterway was delightful and very different. With so many
the marks to follow concentration is equivalent to twice that at sea in
burnout terms. The endless flat forested wilderness stretches on and on. We
anchor in Little Alligator River, no alligators but Ospreys and other very
large eagles wheel about as we sip our wine and contemplate America. We
reflect on the very short time ago when the hunting gathering tribes of the
Indians occupied these lands. Every tribe of this area as far as we can
ascertain was wiped out of existence.
10th May
Crossing the Albemarle sound, here the water is slightly deeper and we can
wander off the marks but it is so wide one cannot see the banks just a
horizon of water. A following wind all day and we make great speed soon
after crossing such expanses we find ourselves in cuts with swing and
lifting bridges. Some open on demand others on the hour or half hour. The
scariest are the fixed bridges with 65'0" clear under, top of Pylades mast
is about 58'0" and as you rush towards the bridge you think "no way" each
time our hearts stop, each time we slide under.
11th May
Entering Norfolk the power of US navel forces becomes apparent, lines of
destroyers, carriers, submarines, troop carriers and countless support
vessels. We anchor town centre and spend five days drinking in Irish Bars,
sightseeing and keeping our spending under control. Drinks aboard 'Pagan' a
German boat we have not met since Cape Verde we catch up on adventures. In
the bar we ask re computer repair (since the damage to the keyboard in
Porto Santo with the one drop of water we have been struggling) within
seconds we are introduced to an expert. Next day following his directions we
head off in the bus to out of town, CompUSA, we walk in the door a huge
store, go to the repair counter, tell our story, he says he is the laptop
expert, looks, flicks out the keyboard, gets one off the shelf blows the
dust off it, clicks it in, it works perfectly. How much? No charge just
some US goodwill for your trip. We are dumbfounded and over the moon..
6th May
After Norfolk the Chesapeake, the largest inlet in the US is a big change
again, still muddy brown, shallow but very well marked. With SW winds there
is lots of fresh sailing. Anchor at Indian Creek and Solmans Landing, here
squads of jet fighters scream overhead, it's a major fighter and astronaut
training ground. The chart indicates a large nature reservation, also
indicated are bomb targets and warnings about unexploded ordinance "Can't
figure why them ducks stopped breeding".
19th May
Annapolis, a very pretty city with much to see and a great pub. The towns
biggest asset is the navel training college, hundreds of youths male and
female dressed from head to toe in immaculate white uniforms. Much to see
and do, Kay scores a no no when she asks at the tourist office if there is a
Museum dedicated to the Indians, one just knows when one is on a sore point.
The history of the area is dominated by the War of Independence and the
decisive assistance given in that fracas by the French. Also the far more
bloody civil war that followed.
24th May
Sailing through rafts of flotsam and dead fish to Baltimore, we are hailed
by 'Pagan' who inform us of a free berth at pier 4, we tie up and check it
out, a little skeptical but all seems well, no notices of where or anyone to
report to. That evening too late to leave we get a bill. Next morning our
first ever-major row at the harbour office, we pay. Everybody does in the
end, she says. We move to anchor off in the middle of the city a most
amazing location and enjoy the sights. A tour of the adjacent aquarium
brings back memories of all the reef snorkeling of the Caribbean now so far
behind us. Nights are now so cold we light the oil stove, the sky is grey
and every day we see some rain.
28th May
Pass through the C&D canal it rains cats and dogs all day and bitterly cold.
Run aground three times trying to enter Chesapeake City. We turn off to
Delaware City, these city names are a bit misleading as any settlement that
is called a city is likely to be but a small town, which these are. The
anchorage is very exposed and in the morning cuts up a bit rough. We never
the less dingy in and tie up in large empty dock, sheriff sees us in the
town, 'that your boat on anchor out there', yep we say, 'have a good day'.
Next we meet the dock master who had followed us down the town, "you git
your dingy out o there or your git a ticket' we ask him where to tie up, he
shrugs his shoulders "not my problem". We tell if he ever comes to Ireland
he is very welcome.
29th May
Continuing our trip down Delaware, weather not favorable so we head for the
Cohansey River, the last available anchorage to us before rounding Cape May
and up to the coast towards New York. As so often on this trip in America
entering river anchorage's is a nail biting experience, we read depths of 5
feet, back off and search for water, finally we get 20 feet then 30, phew !!
For two days we stayed on this peaceful winding river set amongst marshes,
teeming with birds and the odd small fishing boat from the nearest
settlement some three miles up river.
1 June
America hails the arrival of summer, the weather improves, we up anchor and
head down Delaware Bay round Cape May and overnight, sail up past Atlantic
City, we are six miles out from land and clearly visible is Trump Tower and
other pieces of horizontally challenged architecture which mark this
gambling mecca. A calm night, we engine through till dawn.
2 June
Sandy Hook rounded at 14.00 tide still ebbing hard from New York harbour,
we anchor inside the hook in 20 ft of water. Just retiring for a rest to
await the flood and Kay shouts that we have only 5ft of water, much panic
ensues, engine restarted, anchor coming back up. It is noticed that the
water is extremely dirty kind like a full toilet, the depth is checked with
a lead line still got 20ft. The water had become so filthy that the echo
sounder could not penetrate it. We rest awhile.
Two hours later under engine and headsail and with a fast increasing wind
which rushes at us from the NW in alternating hot and cold blasts at about
30 knots, a precursor of things to come. At 8kts we pass under the amazing
Verrazano suspension bridge and New York harbour unfolds, ships everywhere,
tugs, ferries everything coming at us. We are awestruck as we pass under the
upraised arm of the Statue of Liberty, then the unbelievable sky line of
Manhattan. As we approach our destination,79th Street Basin the sky looms
jet black, a squall line flies down the Hudson, all sails are stowed in
seconds. It hits with astonishing velocity, we are laid over, rain comes in
buckets, lightening crackles down giving surreal illumination to the city.
We hold our position mid stream, in 15minutes it's all over, the sky turns
purple and orange, we pick up a mooring. Pylades has landed safely in the
Big Apple.
Fergus, Kay, Pylades