How to
haul out
a boat.
         Please send any comments to me.

This page updated: May 2003
      




"Contracting with a Boatyard" article by I. Michael Heine in 10/2000 issue of Sail magazine.
"Haulouts on the Go" article by Diana Jessie in 9/2000 issue of Cruising World magazine
SailNet - James Baldwin's "Giving Your Boat Some Legs" (building SS legs to hold boat upright while aground for maintenance)

From Gary Elder (owner of Morgan OI 41 in SW coast of Florida):
> How often does your boat get hauled out, and how often bottom-painted ?
> Approx how much does each cost ?

This one is a real can of worms ... If we don't know of any repairs that need to be done, we haul our boat anywhere from 1 yr to 2 1/2 yrs depending on how bad the bottom growth is. These haul-outs are for re-painting the bottom only, although one never knows what one may find that needs work. We re-paint the bottom every time we haul the boat.

Most boatyards do not allow customers to work on their boats (insurance issues and other bs). Those that do have at least two pricing schemes, one for the yard doing the work, and one for the customer doing the work.

Most yards that allow customers to do the work will require that you purchase your paint and supplies from them, and charge an elevated 'list price' for everything. If the yard does the work, they will include, in the quote, a charge for the amount of paint that is appropriate for your boat, but "they may not use all of it on your boat".

If the yard does the work, they will usually quote an all inclusive price range for the total job, if you do the work, the charges are frequently broken down by item, such as: haul and pressure wash (rate per foot), lay days (rate per day), paint and supplies (elevated list price).

Because our boat bottom is large, and our time off 'small', we have been letting the yard do the work, since we moved here. Usually, our bill is $1200 - $1500 for a basic bottom job. Slightly less if you do the work. I don't have individual item prices. In CA we always did the work ourselves. It's a physically demanding dirty job.

Between haul-outs I use a Dri Diver (see your West Marine catalog), and occasionally hire a diver to knock the junk off the prop.

From John Dunsmoor (in Fort Lauderdale FL):
We always do our own bottom work. Most localities have "do-it-yourself" yards, they charge by the foot for haul, pressure wash and what-not. Many require you to purchase bottom paint at the yard, they do charge list. So you pay about twice the rate for the paint. Even with this we usually can get in and out with a bottom job for $500 to $700 dollars for a forty foot boat.

The fact is there is always something else you wish to do under the waterline at haulout. Pull thru-hulls, change seacocks, pull and service the shaft or prop, rudder bearings, blisters, rusting keel, what-have-you. So a thousand dollars or double that is not out of line.

Do the work yourself, you're a cruiser. No one is going to spend the attention on the boat as you would. You can always hire crew to help, most yards let designated crew work on the boat. $15-$20 an hour will get you some extra hands. But you still have to be there every minute.

I just interviewed a couple that have been sailing for seven years aboard a custom built steel boat that is bilged keeled, it will sit like a tripod, upright on their own bottom. With yards being such a@$-@#$es maybe this would be the way to go. Find a sand bar and four feet of tide and to heck with the yards. [But this is bad for the environment, and illegal in most places.]

A boatyard is the place that sailors go when they die and have been bad persons. Most of them are bad, they all charge outrageous prices, hire some of the worst, lowest-skilled individuals for peanuts while they charge you hourly rates that a neurosurgeon could be proud of.

The better yards at least try to make things right.

My recommendation: have a specific list when you haul, do not deviate. Do not get sucked into projects. Get in and get out. Even if it means another haul in six months, it is better to be prepared for a project than get sucked into a black hole. Yard time needs to be finite. It is so easy to turn a one week planned yard time into a month and growing. Accept that not everything will be done.

There are many, many items that can happen out of the yard, dockside. Do them there.

I speak with the experience of doing it right and doing it wrong. I would have to count at least a hundred interactions with yards over the past thirty years. Not all were bad. But the bad ones were so bad as to warrant paranoia.

If you have a yard do the work: Make sure you have a quote, specific tasks. Make sure they understand in writing that if they do any work not pre-authorized by you in writing that they will not get paid for it. Hire an agent to be with the boat and oversee the work, best investment you could ever make. You need to be there when the boat is lifted from the water and you will be there when the boat is ready to be launched.

Another item, yards have such generally bad reputations that they get stuck and sued all the time. Most require that the bill be paid in full, some will take no less than cash or cashiers checks before they will launch. "No cash, No Splash" sign is common.

You sure you want to own a yacht ...

Go back about five thousand words Billy, owning a boat, cruising, is not a game of the mind. It is a game of the heart, analyze this to death and you kill the romance.

From Gary Elder:
[Gary told me that hauling out for any length of time "kills" most types of bottom paint and you have to re-paint.]

Today I talked to a tech rep from Pettit ... He claims that Trinidad can be hauled for a MAX of 72 hrs IF the paint is in good condition, and is not older than 6 - 8 months, AND was properly applied, etc. The rep would not give me a time 'out' for paint older than about 8 months. Considering our hot temps, our hot water, and the quality of crapsmanship we have in FL, I would be a bit reluctant to trust the "72 hours" number. However, I might be willing to try for 24 hours if the paint is new and my next haul out is scheduled for a year from now. Interesting dilemma.
Summarized from editor's response to letter in 12/2001 issue of Practical Sailor:
Ability to survive out of water depends on bottom paint type.

Types are ablative, epoxy, vinyl, Teflon, old-fashioned sloughing.

Modified epoxy paints (e.g. Pettit Trinidad, Interlux Ultra) lose effectiveness slowly (60 days) out of water.

Copolymer ablative paints (e.g. Interlux Micron Extra and CSC) don't lose effectiveness out of water.

Other ablative paints, and vinyl paints, shouldn't be out of water more than about 30 days.

When boat is hauled out:
  • Before:
    • Make a list of work to do while on the hard.
    • Consider getting an in-hatch air-conditioner; it's hot and still and buggy on the hard.
    • Do as much work as possible beforehand, to minimize boatyard time.
      Do anything that can be done in the water instead of on the hard.
      Buy tools and new parts if applicable.
      Empty out cabinets if workers will need access through them.
    • Snorkel and scrape the hull, to avoid an extra charge for pressure-washing an extra-dirty hull.
    • Visit boatyard beforehand: check out Travelift and jack-stands, boat work going on nearby, power, water, showers, toilets, laundry, nearby stores. Does boatyard have insurance ? Will electric connect to normal (30 or 50-amp) shore-power connectors, or is it just a (15-amp) household socket near the boat ? Do they require you to have insurance ? Do you have to buy all supplies from them ? Can you live aboard while on the hard ?
    • Consume fuel and water, and remove heavy items, to make boat lighter (easier to lift, less damage from lifting and jack-stands). (But full diesel tank resists biogrowth better than partially-full tank.)
    • Consume or remove food, to avoid spoilage or insects.
    • Straighten up boat: put stuff away and clean up, so it doesn't interfere with work.
    • Clean stove and refrigerator and galley surfaces, to avoid insects.
    • Make signs to put on things workers should know about. E.g. "don't touch this", "don't step here", "fix this", etc.
    • Remove through-hull transducers that might get broken off or painted-over.
    • Remove above-deck parts (antennae, poles, etc) that might get broken off ?
    • If you won't be able to get into boat after it is hauled, remove personal living items (wallet, clothes, toiletries, medicine, food, etc) and any tools needed to work on hull.
    • If necessary, remove forestay or backstay to make room for lift.
    • Show operator a blueprint or spec sheet or photo of the bottom, so he knows where to position the lift straps.
    • Put waxed paper or plastic garbage bags between straps and hull to protect paint and gelcoat.
    • Lock steering and engage propeller shaft brake ?
    • Pump out holding tank, and flush toilets and waste hoses with fresh water.
    • Close water intake seacocks, to avoid losing prime in water systems.
    • Ask how many pads of cradle/stands will be used; more/bigger == better.
    • Show workers a diagram of interior floors and bulkheads so pads of cradle/stands can be placed well.
    • On the hard, most weight should be supported by keel, not pads.

  • While in sling (before put on cradle):
    • Close all hatches and ports before pressure-washing, to keep water and gunk from getting in.
    • Pressure-wash bottom.
    • Examine size of crack between hull and keel.
      If large, keel bolts need to be tightened or replaced.
    • Get weight of boat from lift operator.

  • While out:
    From Todd Dunn on Cruising World message board:
    • Replace all zincs (they are cheap).
    • Check the shaft bearing to make sure it is OK.
    • Have a close look at all your seacocks [and through-hulls and hoses and clamps] to see if you want to replace any.
    • Make sure the raw water inlet for the engine is clear.
    • Ask the surveyor for suggestions.
    • Check rudder gudgeons.
    • Clean propeller.
    • Repaint the waterline stripe if you have one and it needs it.
    • Make sure your speedometer paddle wheel spins freely after the bottom is painted.


    • [more from others on the list:]

    • Check / repack stuffing box.
    • Drop the rudder and inspect the stock.
    • Install grounding plates for a future SSB / lightning protection.
    • Replace the Cutless bearing.
    • Mark (on a drawing or on your topsides) the exact exterior locations of any holes in your boat so you can find them, fast, when you're over with mask and fins.
    • Upgrade your prop -- almost all boats can use this.
    • If she's been around more than 4-5 years, disassemble all your seacocks and inspect them ... re-grease prior to reassembly.
    • Inspect very bottom of keel for gouges from grounding.
    • Drill hole in lowest point of rudder, to drain water.
      Rusty water or lots of water = bad.
      Epoxy hole shut before refloating.
    • Spray lubricant up into through-hulls from outside, then work the valves to lubricate them.
    • Photograph and measure and diagram the hull and through-hulls and propeller and rudder.
    • If you need to run the engine, put the water intake hose into a bucket and let the engine draw its own water; don't pressure-feed it with a garden hose.
    • Be careful while working/living on the boat in the yard; a fall from deck onto ground is a lot worse than a fall from deck into water.
    • Check the security of all stands each day.
    • If boat will be left unattended for a while, close all ports and hatches to keep insects out, get stuff out of the way of known deck leaks, and prop up all cushions to air them out.
    • Clean up after the workmen: get dust, shavings, leftover bits out of bilge and boat before they get sucked into bilge pumps or air intakes, or ground into carpets or deck.
    • If grinding dust gets on deck, clean it off immediately with foaming bathrooom cleaner and a damp rag, to avoid permanent stains.

  • After:
    • Go aboard and check through-hulls before sling is removed.
    • Open water intake seacocks that were closed.
      The first time each water-intake system (engine, genset, air conditioning, etc) is used, watch carefully to make sure water flow is there.
    • Don't motor until stuffing box / shaft seal has had time to get water lubrication into it.
    • Frequently check through-hulls and bilge for leaks for the first day or so.
    • Test all things that depend on hull transducers (depth sounder, knotmeter) or through-hulls (engine, head, sinks, chain locker drain, fuel tank vent, holding tank vent) or outside-hull ground plates (HF radio).
    • Clean up after the workmen: get dust, shavings, leftover bits out of bilge and boat before they get sucked into bilge pumps or air intakes, or ground into carpets or deck.

Haul-Out and Bottom-Paint Work Order to boatyard:
  • Haul out and relaunch.
  • Handling in yard.
  • Days in yard (storage).
  • Remove hardware.
  • Repair blisters ?
  • Surface preparation (type).
  • Fairing.
  • List and diagram of things not to be sanded and painted over (through-hulls, zincs, transducers, ground plates).
  • Barrier coats (type, number).
  • Top coat.
  • Boot stripe (number of stripes, colors, width).
  • Reinstall hardware.
  • Schedule.
  • Price.
  • Warranty ?

Major Work in a boatyard:
  • Everything in work order above.
  • Inspections.
  • Get title for large equipment purchases (e.g. engine) in your name (not boatyard's), in case boatyard goes bankrupt or gets liens filed against it.
  • Do as much work (estimates, disassembly, cleaning, etc) as possible before getting hauled out.
  • Have parts delivered before getting hauled out.


SailNet - John Kretschmer's "The Delicate Art of Careening"







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