Magnolia's Equipment and How To Use It ============================================================= AC Electric ----------- There are two 30-amp shorepower connectors: of the row of 3 outlets on starboard side of cockpit, forward is main-salon-aircon-only shorepower, middle is all-boat shorepower. "Air Cond Line Switch" at lower-right corner of electrical panel selects between "Shoreline #1 or Ship's Power" (middle connector; all-boat shorepower) and "#2" (both shorepower connectors). All this switch affects is the main salon air conditioner power feed. Grounds on the two shorepower connectors are wired together (on a bus-bar on the back of the electrical panel), and to grounds on outlets, regardless of electrical panel switch settings. Also wired to DC ground (engine block). No connections from neutral to ground. Power outlet above stove is on same circuit as stove; controlled by AC "range" switch. Inverter under nav station feeds outlet under stereo only. To turn on inverter, turn on "radio" switch on DC panel, then change switch under inverter to "inverter", then flip switch on inverter to "on". When on shore power, to feed shore power to outlet under stereo, change switch under inverter to "110". Inverter is Tripp-Lite Powerverter model PV-250FC, square-wave, marked "resistive load only". DC terminals have huge knurled metal knobs, easy to short out accidentally; replaced them with smaller nuts. Changing fuse: probably have to unscrew the unit from the bulkhead to get access. Fuse is AGC 20A. AC voltage gauge on electrical panel reads about 12 volts higher than actual voltage (as measured by Fluke multimeter) when on shorepower with no load. Reading seems to get more accurate when a large load is on-line. No galvanic isolator or isolation transformer on shore power. Fluorescent light over main table is AC, controlled by "outlets" switch on AC electrical panel. Fixture: Power Products Co 492150A0. Ballast: Magnetek 449-LR-WS-TC-P. Bulbs: Circline 22W and 32W, approx 7" and 10.5" diameter. Max bulb that would fit inside housing: 12-13" diameter. AC incandescent lights in engine compartment are controlled by "outlets" switch on AC electrical panel. Assuming AC ammeter on electrical panel is accurate: - main cabin AC == 16 amps cooling, 1 amp fan - fore/aft AC == 8 amps cooling aft, 10-12 cooling both - refrigerator == 1 amp - freezer == 6 amps - DC transformer for lights == - one burner of stove == 8 amps - oven == 18 amps - old battery charger == typically 1 - 1.5 amp (8-12 DC amps) - new battery charger == 11 amps (40 DC amps) when batteries low - engine compartment AC lights == 2 amps - water heater == 11 amps - old Symphonic TV/VCR == less than 1 amp - stereo == less than 1 amp - drill == - Dremel == 1.15 amp max - sander == - white portable fan == 0.4 amp - Toshiba laptop computer == - CDRW drive == 0.65 amp Electrical panel busbar screws are #8-32. Devices that don't like the AC from the genset: - stereo while playing a CD (vibration problem, not AC) - Black & Decker dust-buster charger ============================================================= Aft Head -------- Shower sump pump is under grate in shower floor. Mayfair 1st Mate 1250; 1.5A at 12 VDC; 300 GPH. Shower sump pump switch is knob to left of sink; ??? "Shower Pump" switch on electrical panel must be on to supply power to this switch. ============================================================= Air conditioning ---------------- Custom-built Sager system with 3 zones. Original owner of boat was part owner of Sager. R-22 refrigerant (has low levels of ozone-damaging HCFC). Covering vent to right of galley sinks makes more AC go into V-berth. There is a piece of cardboard for this. Cooling pumps: if prime is lost, bleed water strainer and then bleed AC pump using petcock on pump (near compressor). Open petcock and then run AC until solid water comes out of petcock; close it. AC may cycle on and off while bleeding ? Main cabin AC sometimes fails to start up; start it in Heat mode for a minute (sticky reversing valve ?). Run all AC's in Heat mode briefly, once a month. Forward AC thermostat is miscalibrated; set it below 70 to get 75 or so. Caution: thermostats have 110V AC power running through them. No zincs on condenser coolant loops (Nigel Calder says there should be). Technician can add more R22; not banned or heavily taxed yet. Evaporator for main cabin AC: SALT says Cruisair EDB16 draw-through unit. Forward evaporator: To get enclosure loose: - remove top drawer in V-berth, and remove wood-screw upwards into enclosure. - remove grill over galley sinks. - remove 3 screws into wall over galley sinks. - enclosure will move only an inch or two before reaching limit of Freon lines. Cruisair dealer in Marathon: Artic-Temp, 305-743-5288. There is more info in the "Engine Compartment" section. ============================================================= Auto-pilot ---------- Benmar hydraulic, model MDL 16B-3, serial number 526310. DC-powered pump. Compass bowl inside binnacle is serial number 001 0072. To start up: - remote must be on "auto". - turn sensitivity knob to lowest (full clockwise). - flip power switch to "auto". - wait 1 minute. - flip clutch switch to "on". Clutch switch controls "auto" feature: if on, auto-pilot will steer; if off, you use buttons to steer. Keep sensitivity knob at lowest setting (full clockwise); otherwise auto-pilot oversteers ? Not sure of this. Change course 10 degrees: press CC and Left or Right button for 2 seconds. To dodge (turn and then turn back): press and hold Left or Right button, then release when want to turn back. To steer manually with remote (no auto), set remote to "power". Compass motor box and "binnacle" are mounted under starboard berth in aft cabin; motor-and-pump unit is mounted on aft wall of engine compartment. The "binnacle" contains the magnetically-sensitive compass; don't put ferrous metal or electrical equipment near it. It contains a compass with compass card, a light, and a photocell. When running, the glow of the light is visible through the red lense on top of the binnacle. The feedback / follow-up / push-pull cable from rudder to binnacle has a screw sticking up from it, and port/center/starboard positions of the screw are indicated by pencil marks on the sleeve. Full-starboard rudder is the port pencil mark. Drive cable between compass motor box and binnacle is about 72" long. Ends of drive cable between compass motor box and binnacle can get stripped (become rounded instead of square); can repair with speedometer cable crimp-tips from Napa Auto. From Benmar: "It sounds like the gearing in the binnacle may be binding, which may have caused the cable/key to wear." Manual says to grease binnacle gears with "Mobil X1"; I used white lithium grease 2/2005. When cable end fails, symptoms are: - Compass motor box and/or "binnacle" make whirring noise forever after auto-pilot is turned on. - Auto-pilot makes immediate full starboard turn every time clutch is engaged. Cable is part 1004150-8 (or maybe 1004150-6 to specify 6-foot ?); end sleeve is 1004166. Power unit (in engine compartment): Pulleys: 2-inch and 8-inch diameters. Belt on pump: 4L290 Dayco Durapower someletter19, or Napa 4L290. 1/2" x 29" belt. Replaced belt 12/2003. Small pulley keeps sliding inward and grinding against housing. Replaced setscrew 12/2003; coarse-thread. Electric motor: RAE 14v sernum 102143, 3.25" square, 8.25" long, brushes "MZ65". Benmar says: 0.1 HP, 830 RPM. No way/need to lubricate it. Can get gunked up with carbon dust. To remove it from the "power unit", have to remove pulley, then slightly loosen entire "power unit" from the wall to get enough space to twist the motor out. Front bearing needed replacing 7/2006, and then I damaged the rear bearing while taking shaft out. Roller bearings: - front: 1-1/4" OD, 3/8" length, 1/2" bore, Peer 87013, mounted 1-13/16" from shaft end. - rear: 1-3/16" OD, 1/2" length, 3/8" bore, Peer 87500 ?, mounted 1/8" from shaft end. From Peer Bearing: - 87013: ID 0.5118", OD 1.2598", width 0.5000" - 87500: ID 0.3937", OD 1.1811", width 0.5000" Put new bearings in 9/2006, then found wiring faults in armature. Got this from Rae: The motor you have was custom manufactured for Vega Electronics and has been obsolete approximately 30 years. RAE does not stock OEM custom motors, nor do we have any replacement equivalent to this unit. Bulb in binnacle: spare says "S 55" on it; has wire soldered to center terminal. Benmar part 1019947. To remove bulb, follow instructions, and then do one more step they left out: remove the woven shroud over the bulb. From Benmar: "Pull the woven shroud out. It is pliable and you won't damage it. It's a little hard to get out but it will come out." With compass bowl removed from binnacle, leads to photocell read about 3-20 M Ohms in dark, about 3-6 K Ohms in indirect daylight. Every 100 hours: put a drop of oil on the rear bearing of the pump motor in the engine compartment. Rae Motor Manufacturing Corp, McHenry Ill. From Benmar: If there is no filler hole on the motor then it doesn't require oil. Filler holes have a flip top for easy access. There is no filler hole on the motor. Have documents: instruction manual 4002-2003. Cetec Benmar, Marine Division of Cetec Corp, 3629 West MacArthur Blvd, Suite 208, Santa Ana, CA 92704. http://www.benmarmarine.com/ Heinz Electronics in Ft Myers Beach FL ? From: Don Clark: I replaced the Benmar control head and compass with a Simrad AP-22, on my Sailmaster 39. The drive motor was good, but lots of circuit boards and wiring were ripped out. The new control head is mounted on the port side cockpit coaming, over the existing hole from the Benmar unit. The new computer unit is mounted in the port locker, on the forward bulkhead. The rate compass is mounted under the port settee. The biggest issue was mounting the rudder feedback mechanism, which the Benmar did not have. I glassed a shelf onto the inside of the transom, mounted the feedback unit there and connected it to the steering quadrant with the supplied rod. Kind of a pain to do, but it turned out fine and the AP-22 is a great unit. From Pat Banyas: You can find information about an upgrade to interface your autopilot with GPS and navigation programs at http://www.benmarmarine.com/, or 714-540-5120, or benmarmarine at aol.com. They are very helpful. You can also buy some of the manuals for older units from here. A new manual for my CK210 was $15. ... The Model 16 autopilot was discontinued in 1975. The Model CK210 was designed around 1975 and discontinued in the mid 1980's. Benmar still services both systems. While many of the other manufacturers systems seem to be better at handling and responsiveness, if your unit is as old as mine and was installed over 10 or 15 years ago then you might just consider upgrading considering that the responsiveness was a problem for all the manufacturers that long ago and Benmar has improved just like the other manufacturers. ... From Dave Smith Dave.Smith at ngc.com : Our compass has debris in the fluid. It is kind of large flakes. If they build up over the lamp hole, they will shade the PV cell and cause a constant (Left?) turn. Periodically I have to take the compass out and shake all the debris down to the other end of the compass. Last thing: I have to keep the sensitivity at "peak" value (All the way counter clockwise) or it loses control. I think it is because of cloudy compass fluid. New compasses, and electronics are available from Benmar, but they are pricey. Any wheel pilot will work if you are motoring in calm weather. DDW and following seas become more dicey. Eventually I plan to replace the electronics with a Raymarine S3G, and keep the Benmar motor and drive unit. If auto-pilot suddenly stops steering, try using "manual mode". In that mode, if you press a button to steer and hear a relay click in the power unit but don't hear the power unit's motor spin, the motor is bad/clogged. ============================================================= Batteries --------- House batteries: First set: two Douglas 4D-3, item #043, CA@32F == 1415, CCA@0F == 1150, RC=325, one has F9 stamp (Feb 1999 ?). Bought 6/99. 94 pounds each ? If the RC (reserve capacity minutes, probably at 80F) is for a 25-amp load, this equates to about 135 AH per house battery (but Casey says you can't do this equation). Casey says estimate the 20-hour capacity as 1.25 AH per pound of battery weight; this would give about 115 AH per house battery. http://www.dcbattery.com/douglas.html http://www.douglasbattery.com/pages/dproductmain.html Second set: installed 5/2002: four Deka GC15 golf-cart batteries. Two banks of two series batteries each. Two batteries date-stamped Feb 2002, two Apr 2002. 150 RC ? http://www.eastpenn-deka.com/ Power Master GC15 specs: 20AH rate: 215 6AH rate: 178 mins of discharge at 75A: 115 wet weight: 63 lbs 5/16" terminal bolts L 10.25 x W 7.125 x H 11.375 quick-release one-quarter-turn gang vent caps Fill holes are 1-1/8" ID, with threads inside that. One Deka battery replaced 4/2006 because of physical damage. Got a Trojan T105, 220 AH. (L) 10 3/8 in (W) 7 1/8 in (H) 11 3/16 in 62 pounds. Third set: installed 3/2007. Replaced three remaining Deka batteries with three Trojan T105's and added an additional four T105's, 2/2007. The seven T105's (manufactured H6) were shipping-damaged and had terminals bent or sheared off; one had a leak near the top edge of the case. Fixed sheared-off terminals by drilling and tapping holes and installing Heli-Coils. Golf-cart battery terminals: bolts are 5/16"-18NC thread. Battery DC meter Battery In engine Switch on panel Monitor compartment ------- ------- ------ ------ 1 stbd 1 port 4 batteries 2 port 2 starboard 4 batteries Battery-combiner separates starboard batteries into forward (house) pair and aft (starting) pair. Aft (starting) pair has cables directly to starter motor and engine block. 1-All-2-Off battery switch controls consumption of DC power from house batteries. Engine alternator charges house batteries according to battery switch setting; alternator output comes through "common" terminal of the battery switch. Do not touch switch while engine is running; alternator diodes will be damaged. 2/2007: when solar charging, seems to be no difference between battery switch "1" and "Both" settings; must be some miswiring on the battery switch ? Keep battery switch on "All" during normal operation; results in smallest percentage discharge of each battery. Put switch on "1" or "2" before running genset and battery charger, so charger can figure out best way to charge each bank ? Probably doesn't matter. Battery disconnect switches in engine compartment: US General model 92688 from harborfreight.com Installed 3/2007. Capacity at 12V: 100A continuous, 1000A surge. 3/8" terminals. Battery-combiner in engine compartment: Blue Sea Systems "120 A SI ACR", partnum 7610, 0636201490 109071 990170170 Rev: blank. Installed 3/2007, between forward and aft pairs on starboard. Capacity: 120A continuous, 210A intermittent, 280A inrush. Has connection to starter solenoid so it isolates the battery banks when it detects voltage on the starting circuit. Has green LED to show when banks are combined. Combines when it sees 13.0V for 2 minutes. 3/8" terminals. Negative cabling: from batteries, goes through battery monitor shunt (between port pairs of batteries) so the current in and out of the batteries can be monitored. But the starboard-aft (starting) pair of batteries can not be monitored; they have a negative cable directly to the engine block, not through the shunt. All battery cabling is 1/0 gauge. Cabling for solar panels, solar controller, alternator, battery charger is smaller gauge, usually 4 AWG. Battery charger (from AC power): - Was Crown Automatic Marine Converter (Raritan Engineering), input 8 amps, output 30 amps at 12 volts, 80% duty cycle, model R3012-3, serial #57381. Isolation-transformer type, not ferro-resonant. Moving slide on variable resistor down increases shut-off voltage. Have never been able to get more than 12 amps DC output. http://www.raritaneng.com/Products/Converters/converters.html Got manual from Mac McCoy, Service manager, 954-525-0378, macm at raritaneng.com Told him it's only putting out 12 amps or so, and only under duress. He says send it in for repair. And: "No, this unit does not use three stage charging. I'm also sorry to report that we no longer manufacture any type of converter." - Replaced with Xantrex TrueCharge 40+ in 5/2002. Serial number 21662937. Set to "hot" (80+ F) battery temperature range, "flooded" battery type, "bulk/accept/float" mode. Don't have battery switch in "All" position when charger is running; have it in "1" or "2" position. - There was a connection (orange wire) from battery charger to genset battery; I removed it (but left wire in place) in 5/2002. Didn't like idea that a charger failure could drain or fry all batteries, and didn't like unfused wire from starting battery positive all the way across the engine compartment. Genset is supposed to recharge its starting battery itself with an internal tap from the generator windings. I guess the charger connection would be useful if boat was left unattended but connected to shore power for a long time; the charger could float-charge all of the batteries. Battery monitor: Xantrex Heart Link 2000, serial number 195528 DC 0302. Installed 4/2002. Dual 500A shunt (1000A total). Back-lighting is controlled by Aux switch. Generator has separate starting battery. 12/2000. SeaVolt Dual-Purpose from West Marine, group 27, 80 Ah, 715 MCA, 140 Res Min, 49 lbs. Effectively dead in 2004; won't hold a charge. Discarded it 2/2007. Golf-cart batteries: Island Golf Cart Supply, 3740 Overseas Hwy Marathon, 305-289-6255. ============================================================= Bilge Pumps ----------- Effectively there are three bilges: 1- Main bilge under engine/transmission/shaft. 2- Forward bilge under mainmast compression post. 3- Area around rudder shaft stuffing box. There seems to be a hose for a limber hole (I think) in the starboard-forward corner of the main bilge under the engine, maybe connecting to the forward bilge under the mainmast. If it is a limber hole, it is clogged. Forward bilge does not seem to drain to main bilge. Main bilge: Has 4 pumps: two DC automatic under transmission, one AC non-automatic under aft cabin sole, one manual in cockpit. Primary DC pump is controlled by DC "automatic bilge pump" switch on electrical panel. When it runs, port red LED on binnacle instrument panel is lit. Rule 1500 model 2 (12V, 7A, 1500 GPH, ignition-protected) and Rule Superswitch (15A). Replaced switch with Atwood AFS 2000 in 8/2004. Switch and pump sit as low as possible in bilge. Wiring is to port of gearbox / drive shaft. Green garden hose output. Lots of problems with switch getting stuck. Replaced switch 10/2004 with SensaSwitch model 200600028; www.msc-emd.com Switch failed 7/2006. Replaced switch 7/23/2006 with Johnson Pumps / Mayfair Marine model 36172 (or 3617). 15A max at 12V. 3-year warranty. Secondary DC pump is controlled by DC "bilge pump" switch on electrical panel. When it runs, stbd red LED on binnacle instrument panel is lit. Wiring seems to go to battery #2 only; pump runs when battery #2 reconnected even when battery switch is selecting #1. Don't know what make it is; hose clamp around it has rubbed off or covered up name. Sensatron Water Witch model 247 switch (is this a solid-state switch ???). Pump sits as low as possible in bilge; switch is about 6" up. Wiring is to starboard of gearbox / drive shaft. Red hose output. 3rd pump is controlled by AC "bilge pump" switch on electrical panel, and is NOT automatic. Blue Cascade "Pony Pump" model 3MPU-C-110W (110V, 1.3A, 4 GPM). Mounted under sole in aft cabin. 3/4" green garden hose intake and outlet. Output is tee'd to aft head's sink drain. O-ring: 1 3/4" x 1 9/16" x 3/32". Impeller: Reverso #360010 nitrile. Doubt it works; maybe requires very full bilge before it will draw. 4th pump is manually operated, in cockpit to starboard of helm seat. Whale G1, either MK 1 or MK2. White ribbed hose. Requires very full bilge before it will draw. Watch out for: corrosion where a stainless bolt screws into the aluminum to hold down the flapper. West Marine carries rebuild kit AK3706/neoprene, for clean bilges. Better: kit 3714/nitrile for oily bilges. Pump has "rounded" type valves. Hose clamp around diaphragm was Jubilee BS 3628 6x 575S. Diaphraghm diameter is 5 5/8" - 5 3/4". www.whalepumps.com Hose chafed through 6/2006. Forward bilge: Pump is connected through Y-valve under sole next to mast compression post. Does double-duty as bilge pump and forward head shower sump pump, controlled by switch in forward head. No anti-siphon vent in the hose loop. No automatic switch. Pump is ITT Jabsco Water Puppy 6360-1001. 8 amps at 12 VDC; use 15A fuse. Impeller-type. Jabsco 6303 impeller, 6-vane, 7/8" thick. Impeller cover O-ring: 2-5/16" OD, 2-1/8" ID. Y-valve is Peters & Russell something. Settings are reverse of what would be intuitive: handle points to leg that is CLOSED. No strainer on end of hose under aft water tank. Rudder-shaft bilge: Gets wet if motoring and rudder shaft stuffing leaks. At rest, waterline is slightly below top of rudder shaft tube, so water does not pour in even if stuffing is removed. No bilge pump here. No way for water to drain to main bilge. ============================================================= Binnacle Switches ----------------- Bottom switch "depth sounder" controls speaker from belowdecks VHF. Doesn't seem to work. "AC" switch is for engine-mounted generator (gave it away). Changed it to control the compass light 10/2004. Pull-switches have 3/8" diam stems. Replace with SeaChoice 11901 (plastic knob, 15A, $5) or 11851 or 11861 ($12-$14). ============================================================= DC Electric ----------- Cigarette-lighter-style outlets in main and aft cabins are controlled by "Radio" switch. Interior light circuits are not switched or fused, except through the AC/DC transformers. There seems to be three types of DC circuits: - to batteries - through transformer 1, or to batteries (controlled by "Cabin Lights AC / DC" switch) - through transformer 2, or off (controlled by "DC Lights Xformer" switch) DC fluorescent light in aft cabin is controlled by wall-switch outside aft cabin. Seems to be powered only by batteries, not by DC transformer. Fixture is Thin-Lite M112 / West Marine 126177 "short dual", 1.33 DC amps, 16 watts, 800 lumens. Bulbs are Thin-Lite F8T5/CW/TWIN / West Marine 1967066 "short", 8 watts. Two AC-to-DC transformers: General Electric model 9T51Y108, primary V 120/240 Hz 50/60, secondary V 12/24, KVA .500 each I think the idea behind these is that they supply 12-volt power to lights while AC is present. This avoids a load on the batteries, and avoids tapping some of the battery charger output (all of it can go to charging batteries). Also, the battery charger output may be at high voltage (up to mid-14's), while the transformer voltage can be constant. There is something weird: if the house batteries have been disconnected for a while, when they are reconnected, something puts a load on the batteries for a couple of hours. The load starts at 8 amps and goes to zero over 3-6 hours. I suspect it is capacitors or something in the transformers. Engine alternator: Old one is Motorola Automotive, 12 volt, 51 Amp, negative ground, model M12N51, serial number 1367. External regulator: model 8RG2010A, serial number 19664. Looks like alternator RPM == 2 * engine RPM. To change fan belt, must take alternator off it's mounting bolts ! Wiring: - Large terminal in middle of red plate is charging output; connects to thick white wire, which goes up to binnacle, to ammeter. Thick red comes down from other side of ammeter and back onto engine, and to starter solenoid terminal, then to battery switch common terminal. - Black wire from regulator goes to ground terminal on case of alternator. - Yellow wire to regulator probably is excite wire. Has spade lug, connects to orange wire from bundle, goes to Delco-Remy mystery box (starter relay ?) in binnacle. - Small terminal near red plate has thin red wire from regulator. Maybe field wire ? - Small terminal next to that has black wire from alternator, has thin white wire to tachometer, had brown wire that dangled at electrical panel (maybe a gauge was connected there ?). Looks like direct replacement is: Mando model 60125, BoatU.S. item 770366 $190. Balmar model 81-50, West Marine item 1233683 $220. New one is 100A BS-20 from Battery Shack in Marathon. Self-exciting, with 3-stage internal regulator. Single 1" foot. Paid for lifetime warranty. Had it rebuilt in Salinas PR 8/2007 for $160: new diodes, brushes, rotor. Pulley is 2 7/16" OD. Smaller than pulley on old alternator, so tach needs recalibration. New wiring doesn't send charge wire up to binnacle and back down, so ammeter on binnacle doesn't work any more. Terminals: - Charge out, 1/4" with red insulator. Ran 4-gauge wire to starter solenoid terminal, which then connects to battery switch common terminal. - Tachometer out, 1/8". Connected to thin white wire, which runs up to binnacle to tachometer. - Ground, 5/16". Ran 4-gauge wire to ground bolt on front bottom of engine block, which then connects to battery negative terminals. - Don't use two spade lugs. Produces about 45 amps into low batteries at fast idle. Have battery switch in "All" position when engine is running, so both battery banks get charged. Alternator / belt tensioner bracket: about 8" long, alternator attachs about 6" down, slot 3/8" wide. Engine starter motor ground is through the engine block (bad), not a separate wire to battery negative. But now that there's a separate starting battery bank, there is a ground wire from (near the) starter motor to the starting battery bank. Engine alternator ground is through the engine block (bad), not a separate wire to battery negative. Added a separate wire when new alternator installed 4/2002. Engine alternator output goes to starter solenoid terminal, where it connects to main wire to "common" terminal on battery switch. Power for portables: - Grundig shortwave wants 9 V 200 mA feed, tip negative. - Toshiba Satellite 305CDS laptop wants 15 V 2 A to charge, will run on 11.75 volts. - Dell Inspiron 1100 laptop wants 20 V to charge. - Ericsson cell-phone wants 6 V 700 mA to charge. - Hoover dust-buster wants 4.5 VAC to charge ! - Black & Decker dust-buster wants 4.9 VAC to charge ! - Icom M3A handheld VHF wants 12 V 100 mA to charge. - Canon S110 camera wants 4.2 V 500 mA to charge, but with special battery connector. DC-to-DC step-down converter is Radio Shack 273-1815, uses fuse 3A-250V. Set to 9V tip-neg for SSB receiver; 6V tip-pos for spotlight. DC-to-DC step-up converter is BiX NBDC-90WU. www.bixnet.com Set to 20V tip-pos for Dell laptop. 90W is too much; should be 70W ? Battery switch: Old switch: Perko "Fig 85-A". Perko says rated for 210 amps continuous duty and 315 amps intermittent duty. New switch installed 10/2006: Perko 8501DP. Rated for 250A continuous, 360A intermittent. Had to saw off 1-inch "skirt" to get it to lay flat against wall. Would be better to have a wider switch with more room between terminals. External lights: Forward running lights: double-ended festoon-style bulb, fixture is Perko A-16, bulb is 12 V 10 W Perko F1G.71, lense is Perko Fig 260. Maybe can replace with Perko 70DP1CLR ? Legal for boats up to 12 meters long; should have 25 W fixtures and bulbs on this boat! 25 W bulb and colored lense gives 2 NM visibility. 25 W bulb and white lense gives 3 NM visibility. 10 W bulb and colored lense gives 1 NM visibility. 10 W bulb and white lense gives 2 NM visibility. Stern lower running light (removed 2/2003): mini-bayonet-style bulb, Ancor trade num 1416, part num 521416 (0.80 A, 10.2 W, 12 V, 8.0 CP). Legal for this boat, but blocked by dinghy. Stern upper running light: fixture is Aqua Signal, probably Series 25 AQSIG# 25500-7. Bulb is WM 268359 (Aqua-Signal 90200-7) or maybe AV425A ??? Festoon-type. 12 V 10 W, visibility 2 NM. Legal for this boat. Anchor light (at top of mast): Should be 2 NM visibility. Old: Fixture was ???, bulb was PL 90. 7.5 watt bulb ! Can't be legal; probably less than 1 NM visibility. Stopped working 1/2004; bulb was okay, but cover was destroyed. Bulb came apart when I tried to unscrew it. New: Bought Davis Mega-Light 3310 in 1/2004; stopped working 7/2004. 2 NM visibility, automatic on/off. 1893 == "bright" bulb. 1892 == "energy-efficient" bulb. Get 2 NM vis with "energy-efficient" bulb, must be more with "bright" bulb. Bulb 1891 == 240 mv at 14 V. Bulb base is mini-bayonet style. Lense "unscrews" with a 20-degree twist counter-clockwise. http://www.davisnet.com/marine/products/marine_product.asp?pnum=3310 Wiring at mast top: female = positive. Steaming/masthead light (at spreaders): ??? Should be 3 NM visibility. Spreader lights: bulb is Napa 4411. Bulb is held in by a big compression-ring that is a major pain to put in. Cockpit red/white lights: ??? Internal lights: Wall-mounted half-round lights: ??? Ceiling-mounted round lights: Lo-Volt Inc, 5" diameter, bulb is GE 93 LB. Fluorescent in aft cabin: ??? Fluorescent over navigation table: fixture is AC/DC; ??? Bulb is 17" long plus prongs; Westinghouse 15-watt F15T8/CW cool white. Fluorescent in engine compartment: ??? Bulb is 17" long plus prongs; Fett Electric F15T80. Halogen reading lights in aft cabin: fixture is ??? Bulb has G-4 base; Westinghouse 04742 or similar. No fusing or switching on DC light circuits; connected straight to DC bus ? Or through AC/DC transformers. Electrical panel busbar screws are #8-32. DC current loads: - refrigerator == 3.5 to 5 amps. - RADAR == 2.5 amps max. - Auto-pilot == 3.9 amps typical, 14.3 amps max. - cockpit VHF == - navigation table VHF == 6.3 amps max. - old Symphonic TV/VCR == 5 amps max. - new GPX TV == 1.2 amps max. - Garmin GPS == 0.080 amp. - Magellan GPS == - Knot-meter == 0.060 amp. - Wind-meter == 0.080 amp. - Depth sounder == 0.050 amp nominal, 0.3 amp max brightness. - primary bilge pump == 3.5 amps ??? - secondary bilge pump == 1.5 or 3.9 amps ??? - old drinking water pump == 6 amps nominal, 9.9 amps max. - new drinking water pump == 2 amps. - aft shower sump pump == 1.5 amps. - forward shower sump pump == 8 amps. - engine compartment blower == 8 amps. - engine compartment fluorescent == 0.5 amp. - Caframo portable fan == 0.44 amp. - Car-type dust-buster == ??? - Toshiba laptop computer with low battery == 1.2 to 1.8 amps. - Dell laptop computer with low battery == up to 10 amps; enough to melt connector or wires if run continuously. - old anchor light == about 0.35 amp ? - new anchor light == 0.11 amp on low-current bulb, 0.32 amp on high-brightness bulb. - spreader lights == ??? - running lights == ??? - steaming light == ??? - each halogen reading lamp in aft cabin == ??? - each incandescent light in interior == ??? - solar controller == 0.022 amp. - inverter == 2.5 to 3 amps with no AC load. Solar (installed 12/2002, bought from earthsolar.com): Morningstar ProStar PS-30 solar controller, serial number 0134002M. Does 3-stage charging, PWM during "acceptance" phase, and an automatic equalization every 25 days. Buzzes a bit when batteries hit 14.4 volts, due to PWM switching at 300 Hz; it is not relay noise; there is no relay. Connected to battery switch "common" terminal, so only way to cut power from solar to house loads is to remove the fuse near the controller. Fuse is AGU 30-amp; can get away with standard 1.25" 30-amp fuse in a pinch. "Load" terminals are unused; could connect up to 30-amp load there, but only reason to do that would be to get low-voltage-disconnect feature. www.morningstarcorp.com 2/2007: installed "bypass" switch near controller that connects "PV+" to "Battery+", sending full solar panel output to batteries. Two Kyocera 120-watt solar panels, serial numbers 02832A2578 and 02832A2579. Installed in parallel. I left the bypass diodes installed in the panels; eventually Kyocera admitted they don't do anything good or bad in this configuration. Panel 02832A2578 failed 11/2007; 8V and no current under load. Replaced both panels 4/2008 under warranty. New panels are serial numbers 0788JM0838 1085 5 35 and 0788JM1171 1097 7 37, refurbished 2007.08. Wire from controller to first panel is 6 AWG; wire between panels is 8 AWG. Connectors at panels are 6 AWG - #10 screw (4.8 mm). Battery voltage gauge on electrical panel no longer distinguishes between the two banks; both sides connected to battery switch common side. ============================================================= Deck ---- Row of 3 outlets on starboard side of cockpit: forward is main-salon-aircon-only shorepower, middle is all-boat shorepower, aft is telephone. Bow and stern pulpits: Screwed on, not through-bolted. Stanchions: Schaeffer, through-bolted, some have backing plates and some don't. Base bolts: hex-head 7/16", 1.5" to 3" long, 7/32" or 1/4" diam Rebedded most stanchions 6/2004; couldn't get to starboard-forward stanchion (blocked by air-conditioner). Pilothouse / Dog-house: - Bolted on top of old cockpit coaming; could be removed ! Wouldn't be surprised if they bedded it down with 5200 or something, though. Was constructed in 1982. - Get deck leaks if front edge on top of coaming is not caulked well. Apply huge, bulging, rounded bead of 3M 101 / polysulfide caulk under the teak trim. - Roof has 3 coats West System epoxy, painted with Easypoxy glossy white and then Valspar topside glossy white (both one-part polyurethane enamels) in 7/2001. Added 4-inch strip of fiberglass cloth across top of teak in 9/2001. - Ceiling painted with one coat of ??? - Outside sides primed with Valspar primer 2/2002, painted with one coat of Interlux Premium Yacht Enamel - 242 Flat White 3/2002. Painted 2/2004 with Valspar (Home Depot) 3214 white gloss marine topside polyurethane. - Inside sides and windowsills painted 2/2004 with Valspar (Home Depot) 3214 white gloss marine topside polyurethane. - Forward instrument panel painted with Behr Premium Plus exterior satin enamel 3/2002. Color: Ralph Lauren Country - Windowbox C016B: matched via mix based on ultra pure white 9050: colorant AX perm yellow 0Z-0 48-10 96-0 colorant D thalo green 0Z-0 48-8 96-1 colorant F red oxide 0Z-0 48-3 96-0 - Insides of cockpit lockers painted 3/2004 with Behr Premium Plus number 7050 Ultra Pure White interior satin enamel paint (acrylic latex; mildew resistant) from Home Depot. - Teak roof edge painted with West Marine SeaGloss polyurethane Jet Black model 438591 in 4/2002. - Windows caulked with DAP Alex Plus "acrylic latex caulk plus silicone" (black). - Underside of teak roof edge caulked with DAP Alex Plus "acrylic latex caulk plus silicone" (white). Security grates on hatches: Fabricated 2/2004 out of plain steel 3/8" rod. Painted with Rustoleum gloss white. Anchor windlass: Simpson-Lawrence Hyspeed 510. Has "5359" stamped on bottom. New would be $1010 from West Marine. S-L now owned by Lewmar, 800-946-3527. Parts from http://www.slspares.co.uk/ or http://www.rigginghydraulics.com/ or http://www.pyacht.net/cgi-local /SoftCart.exe/online-store/scstore /h-sl_parts_hyspeed.htm?L+scstore +mhcl9238ff6a0f6a+1154724466 New from West Marine says maximum pull = 550 lbs. If safe working load = 1/3 of MP, SWL = 183 lbs. SWL should be 1 to 3 times weight of ground tackle, depending on who you listen to. But my ground tackle weighs 210 lbs ! Chain gipsy has grease nipple. Windlass body has oil fill bolt on port aft side (use medium gear oil). Mounting holes are 5/8" diameter, with plastic sleeves inserted so 3/8" SS bolts can be used. Mounting bolts are 2.5" long (not counting heads), 3/8" diameter. Manual says gipsy (9510 or 9519) accepts "3/8 BBB and proof coil", which doesn't make sense because those two have different link lengths. I found it fits well with: - 5/16" HT G4 at West Marine (Acco) - NOT 5/16" HT at Home Depot (Campbell) - 3/8" BBB at West Marine (Acco) - 3/8" HT at Home Depot (Campbell) Bought 200' of Acco 3/8" BBB 10/2001 from Maritime Marketing, 800-342-1640, 305-238-2375, http://www.actiontiedown-mma-cent.com/ Flipped the primary anchor chain end-for-end 2/2005. Windlass jams easily if chain is twisted; jams sometimes if chain "pyramids" in chain locker. Raising windlass base fixed much of this. Rope (port) gipsy has 15/32" bolt on it. But after removing that, the gipsy is galled onto the shaft and can't be budged. To get second anchor chain onto windlass, might be able to put a rubber gipsy over the rope gipsy, and cut a new hawsehole behind that gipsy. Or just take 2 wraps of chain around the rope gipsy and tail it by hand. Deck fills all have 1 7/8" ID O-rings. Replaced the rings on the water and diesel fills 4/2003. Deck cleats: Two at bow and two at stern are "big": 10" long, 2" or 2 1/8" high, bolt spacing 1 3/4" or 1 7/8" by 3 3/4" or 3 7/8". Compatible may be West Marine 198418 / WMHAR 1366SS (stainless steel). 12" with same footprint: West Marine 198426 / WMHAR 1368SS. Four mid-boat cleats are "smaller": 8" long, 1 3/4" high, bolt spacing 1 5/8" or 1 1/2" by 3 1/4" or 3 1/8". Equivalent may be West Marine 399628 / Perko 1188DP8CHR (chrome over zinc; 1/4" bolts). All cleats have no backing plates ! Added backing plates to bow cleats 7/2002. Found a couple of the bolts weak or sheared at that time. Bolts are oval-head SS 5/16-18 x 2". Cabin-side handrails are screwed on, not through-bolted. Deck fiberglass (including gelcoat): Foredeck: 7/8" to 15/16", balsa-cored. Aft head port: mostly 1/4", some 3/16", solid. Galley opening port: 1/4" and 3/16", solid. Port settee opening port: 1/4" and 5/16", solid. Name on bottom of swim platform: applied 7/26/2002, 4" high all-caps Traviate (?) Black. Should have gotten 5" or 6" high. Old bicycle: Huffy Storm, dark-and-light blue, 15-speed. Brown Koyal Gel seat. Kalin steering tube. Shimano SIS derailleur. Dotek crank wheel. Sram front shifter. 800-USA-BIKE. Bought used for $30 in 11/2002. Front tire 26 x 1.95, front tube 26 x 1-3/8. Stolen 11/2003 ! Next bicycle: Pacific Cycle Mt Fury Roadmaster. Support 800-626-2811. Model R4416WMFT. Date FSD0512JC. Serial number on bottom of frame: F305023071 (not sure of "F"). $54 from Walmart 11/2003. Lock is Kryptonite 1636002004, key LN194. Tires 26 x 1.95 Rusted to pieces; thrown away 12/2005. Third bicycle: Huffy. Model K6605 BA 05F. Serial number B1 05F067141. $94 from KMart 6/2006. Tires 26 x 1.95 ============================================================= Dinghy ------ Novurania 320, serial number PKD10318A797, HIN "NU 35015" (molded into upper port side of transom), purchased in 1995. Washer on hull/deck-plug is 1 3/36" or 1 1/4" OD, 1/8" or 3/16" thick, 7/8" ID. Inflation pump is Bravo 10 with hand-made nozzle on end. Nozzle doesn't have to lock into receptacle, just make an air-tight seal. Watch out for over-inflation: changes from almost-enough to too-much in about 2 strokes. Lee Wooldridge says: inflate the two side-tubes to slightly-soft, then inflate front tube to rock-hard. Novurania of America 2105 South Highway U.S. One, Vero Beach FL 32962 561-567-9200 http://www.novurania.com/ Inflatable Experts http://www.inflatablexperts.com/index.html main: 800-729-1498 Fort Lauderdale: 800-615-2844 Jverrecchia at InflatableXperts.com Helpful non-Novurania dealer (but he owns a Novurania) in Marathon: Lee Wooldridge, 305-743-7085 Inflatable Boats 2601 Overseas Hwy, MM 48.5 www.keysinflatables.com keysboat at bellsouth.net Lee Wooldridge says air pressure inside hull/deck is bad; drill a hole as high as possible to relieve that pressure, or else it may damage the hull/deck joint. But there already is such a hole high on the transom; hasn't relieved the pressure. I suspect it's a cored keel, and you'd have to drill through fiberglass, core, fiberglass. And it would have to be somewhere low down. Not willing to do that. Keeps getting water inside the rigid keel, and the drain-hole for it is useless (too high and too far forward). I drilled a hole in the outside of the transom 1/2003 to see if I could drain water out, and hit only dry foam. Filled the hole. Had dinghy tested for leaks 2/2003; there is a major crack inside on port side about 1 foot forward of transom, that probably is letting water in. May have been caused by a high-speed impact with a wave while tubes were not fully inflated ? Repaired it myself. Rubrail: approx 1" x 1" outside, 3/4" x 3/4" inside. Outboard mounting: Top of transom to bottom of keel: 17" Top of transom to center of prop hub: 22" Specs from http://www.novurania.com/tenders.html : Model: TR320 Length: 10'5" Beam Overall: 5'4" Tube Diameter: 17" Interior Length: 7'3" Interior Beam: 2'6" Air Chambers: 3 Persons: 4 Weight (Approx): 150 lb Payload: 944 lb Max Power: 20 HP Shaft: 15" Davits are Bremer 350 with center sections replaced 8/2001 by Marathon Marina. Added wood cross-piece and attached mizzen backstay to it approx 2/2003. Fixed broken welds in Luperon 2005 and again in St Thomas 2/2008. Wire lifting bridle: Added new wires 4/2002: 5/32" 1x19 SS 316. Running lights: Bow: ??? Stern: Fulton All-Round Light. Lamp Fulton #1 (A-16). Repair kit: red rubber bag with 10318 written on it. Old: Adamprene glue (label is in Italian; looks like contains toluene and maybe xilene ?). Was totally soldified 1/2004. Bought new kit 1/2004. www.whitewaterdesigns.com Patching steps: - dry-fit patch and mark perimeter with pencil. - sand marked area. - back of patch is non-adhesive; no backing to peel. - back of patch may need sanding, or may be pre-roughened. - apply two coats of Toluol to boat and back of patch, letting each coat evaporate. Softens and cleans. - apply thin coat of adhesive to each. Go 1/8" outside the marked boundary on the boat. - let dry 15 to 20 minutes. - apply another thin coat of adhesive to each. - wait 5 to 10 minutes, until tacky. - very carefully, apply the patch to the boat. It adhers instantly; get the position right the first time ! - smooth down from center to edges. - tape down with blue tape. - dries in 6 hours (instructions) or 30 minutes (label on adhesive can). Minimize use and inflation for a day, if possible. Dinghy (without motor) valuations 4/2003, assuming it's a 1994 model, according to NADA: MX 320 STD: low retail $1,470, avg retail $1,860 MX 320 DLX: low retail $2,520, avg retail $3,180 WHITECAP 320: low retail $980, avg retail $1,240 No listing for 1995, or for model TR320 ============================================================= Electrical Panel ---------------- Fuses: Item 1/2002 desired ---- ------ ------- Water Sys Buss AGC 25 / 32V Show Pump Buss SFE 20 DC Refrig Buss AGC 25 / 32V Bilge Pump 10A 32V 3// Auto Bilge Buss SFE 20 Aux Buss AGC 20 / 32V Outlets Buss AGC 25 / 32V AC Refrig Buss AGC 30 Range Buss AGC 20 replaced 2/2002 with AGC 30 Water Heat Buss AGC 30 Batt Charge Buss AGC 10 AC Bilge Buss AGC 10 Cab Ligh AC Buss AGC 30 DC Lights X Buss AGC 25 / 32V On binnacle: Bilg Blower Buss AGC 20 / 32V Behind instrument panel: GPS Buss AGC 2 / 250V On inverter: Inverter AGC 20 Under navigation table: RADAR Fuji 5 AGC == fast-acting MDL == time-delay (for motors with high start current) ============================================================= Engine ------ Perkins 6.354 diesel, normally aspirated (no turbocharger), fresh-water cooled (heat-exchanger). Serial number 354U189410. Someone told me this serial number means it is 6.354, not 6.354M. Top of block, under valve cover, has "37116660-8" on it. Weight (with transmission): 1330 lbs. Cast iron block, cylinder liners, head. Starting engine: - no glow-plugs - pop out neutral button on throttle/gearshift - put throttle in "forward gear" position, a little higher than lowest setting. (Manual says put at full throttle !) - turn key until starts; release key. - look for exhaust water, and check sound of exhaust - tach won't register until you goose throttle and alternator kicks in. - run at 1000 RPM to warm up - idle is 700 RPM - cruise at 1600 RPM - motor-sail at 1200 RPM - throttle/gearshift lever has interlock disk; must pull it up to shift gears Normal operating temperature was 165-170. After punching thermostat and replacing heat exchanger, running at 140. Really should be 180. Put new thermostat in; had to hammer it in 4 places to make it fit. Now runs at 180. Normal oil pressure is 60 while warming up, 45 while running. Changing oil and filter: takes 10 quarts. Steps: - run engine 15 minutes to get oil warm - open filler cap on top of valve cover - put plastic bags under/around filter - remove bottom bolt (5/8") on filter - catch dripping oil - remove filter housing and filter - discard filter, remove O-ring, clean housing - drain oil: - if using drill-pump, from oil sump pipe (11/16") at top of engine near engine compartment door, probably have to prime pump to do it. - if using Tempo siphon-pump or electric pump,from oil dipstick. Should get 2.5 gallons. - lubricate new O-ring and press it up into slot - put new filter in housing - install filter housing, tighten bolt - fill engine with oil - close filler cap and drain pipe - let sit, check for leaks, check oil level - wrap newspaper around the filter housing and tape it down. - crank engine for 15 seconds with kill switch depressed; go down and see if oil filter housing is leaking - run engine for 2 minutes to circulate oil and look for leaks - stop engine, look for leaks, check oil level Oil filter: AC 72, NAPA 1099, Hastings P186, Luber-finer P-72 (but the rubber ring that comes with it doesn't fit). A couple of people have told me NAPA filters definitely are better than other brands. Oil: Chevron Delo 400 premium SAE 40 or SAE 15W-40 for low and high-sulfur fuels. Oil dipstick: min-to-max == about 1-3/8 quarts. Did oil and filter change (handbook says every 200 hours, service manual says 250): 5/19/2000 hour 1280 (previous owner) 8/22/2001 hour 1417 5/13/2002 hour 1753 7/22/2002 hour 2058 9/30/2002 hour 2257 12/4/2002 hour 2527 5/31/2003 hour 2753 7/23/2003 hour 2950 11/11/2003 hour 3186 Fuel lift pump failure putting diesel in oil, many oil replacements 11/2003. 1/18/2004 hour 3336 12/8/2004 hour 3527 8/26/2005 hour 3777 7/26/2006 hour 4017 To-do: get oil filter housing insert (or new housing), so can use screw-on filters, which should be easier and less messy to change. Existing housing is AC K720 or H720; filter is AC 72. www.acdelco.com/html/pi_filt_oil.htm Adapters into housing: on housing side, 3/8" ID and 11/16" OD on hose side, 5/8" ID and 1" or 15/16" OD flare Washers between housing and adapter: installed 51/64 x 41/64 x 5/64 (#80 O-ring). Filter is 4.5" OD; housing is 5.5" across. Tried hard in 12/2004 to change to spin-on filter, but could not find new housing that would work. NAPA 4309 (fuel filter ?) has compatible pipe threads. Someone told me that a spin-on filter has to be much bigger than a canister filter, to get the same flow through it (doesn't make sense to me, offhand). Oil cooler (cools engine oil and transmission oil): - Original says "Marine Coolers 0241" and "NA004139" on it. Replacement == Sen-Dure 2356-1-5 (all copper tubes, list $299) or 2356-1-7 (90/10 coppernickel tubes, list $382). - Sen-Dure: sen-dure at worldnet.att.net, 6785 NW 17th Avenue Fort Lauderdale Florida 33309, 954-973-1260 - Oil cooler measurements: - dual 2" OD tubes, 11 1/2" long plus caps, 15" long hose-to-hose, 17" long overall including sleeves that go into hoses. - top tube == engine oil, 5/8" ID hoses, 3/4" pipe to 1" tube right-angle fittings, pointing straight out to ends. - bottom tube == transmission oil, 13/32" ID hoses, 3/8" pipe to 5/8" tube right-angle fittings, pointing in and up at 45 degrees. - ends == seawater, 1 1/8" ID hoses, clamped on. - 2nd owner replaced oil cooler 2/96. - Replaced oil cooler 6/2002 with Sen-Dure 2356-1-5 serial number 434242. Old one had oil leak from joint on side where hexagonal piece joins cylindrical body; patched with Marine-Tex White. Looks like another joint is weakening too. Probably from over-tightening the connections. Was leaking unburnt engine oil into exhaust; replacing oil cooler fixed most of it. Let engine cool down with no load before shutting off. Stopping engine: - idle to cool down - press and hold engine shutoff button on left side of binnacle - hear oil-pressure buzzer - turn off ignition key (counter-clockwise) Emergency stop: - Kill-switch on binnacle has electrical connection to solenoid next to throttle linkage on injector pump. Can use tip of screwdriver to lift solenoid rod to stop engine if switch fails. - In emergency, put thick plastic bag, maybe reinforced with a sturdy hat or something, over air intake housing ? - In emergency, open bleed bolts on top of secondary fuel filter and on sides of injection pump ? - In emergency, loosen nuts on fuel lines on injectors, and put engine in gear to make the load stall it ? - There is no decompression lever. - There is a fuel shut-off between Fram filters and tank, but engine probably would run for quite a while after turning that off. Maybe not; maybe the fuel pumping would stop when the suction got high. Speeds: -Motoring: 1450 RPM == 6.1 knots 1700 RPM == 6.5 knots 2200 RPM == 7.5+ knots - According to previous owner: Good trolling speed == 5 knots. Cruise at 1700 RPM. Don't go over 1800 RPM routinely. Emergency maximum 2200 RPM. - According to Perkins handbook: Max intermittent speed == 2800 RPM. Max continuous speed == 2400 RPM. - From DirtRdEarl at aol.com, on a Gulfstar 47: The 6.354 is rated at 2600 rpm. I am propped for 7 knots at 1800 and only rarely run 2100. - I think "Magnolia" is under-propped; should be able to get higher speeds. Fuel filters: 1st/primary/port: Napa Gold 3134 (12 micron) or Baldwin PF943 or Hastings FF958. 2nd/primary/starboard: Napa Gold 3133 (10 micron). In fuel lift pump: strainer screen under dome. Secondary: next to injector pump: Napa 3166 (10 micron) or AC ACD51 or Baldwin BF825. [According to Wix Filters, the 3134 and 3166 are not available in finer-pore versions! Would have to change housings to get finer filters.] Primary fuel filters/separators (Fram FCS1133-PLM) are in series, not parallel. And are not identical: port (1st) is fuel filter and starboard (2nd) is water separator. They have metal bowls, not glass. To bleed water/gunk out of each: - open tap at bottom of filter. - loosen small (3/8") nut at top to let air in. - collect SOME fluid from bottom. - no need to bleed fuel system afterward. Changing fuel filters: - primary filters: - open tap at bottom of filter. - loosen small (3/8") nut at top to let air in. - collect ALL fluid from bottom. - remove large nut (5/8") at top and remove entire filter housing. - remove filter from housing and discard. - remove O-ring from housing mount and discard. - clean housing. - put new filter into housing. - put new O-ring into housing mount. - close bottom tap and fill housing with diesel. - install housing and filter onto mount. - lift pump strainer: - remove 7/16" bolt at top of pump. - remove cap, strainer and O-ring. - wash strainer and O-ring and reassemble. Don't overtighten bolt; I did, and had to retap the hole (1/4"-28) and buy a longer bolt (SS 1/4"x1" fine-thread). - can't buy new strainer (Perkins part 0800068) and O-ring (Perkins part 0490558) anywhere! - secondary filter: - put cup or plastic bags under filter to catch fuel. - loosen 7/16" bolt at top of filter. - remove filter and base, tilting bottom towards front of engine to get them out. - discard filter, 2 big O-rings. - there is a small O-ring on bolt stem; couldn't get it off. - install new filter and O-rings. - don't fill filter more than 1/3 with diesel; have to tilt it to get it on. - bleed fuel system: - may help to take top off fuel lift pump and pour a few ounces of fuel into the pump, especially if primary filters were changed. - loosen 2 bolts on injector pump (9/32" air vent bolt to starboard of throttle pointing aft, and 5/16" head locking screw on injector pump body aft of nameplate), and 7/16" bolt on top of secondary filter. - set throttle to "full speed". - pump lever on fuel lift pump until clear fuel comes out of loosened bolts. Tighten bolts in order: filter, head locking screw, air vent). - [WAS ABLE TO START ENGINE HERE !!!] - loosen 1/2" pipe union on outlet going aft from injector pump. - pump lever on fuel lift pump until clear fuel comes out of loosened union. Tighten union. - loosen pipe unions on two injectors. - put throttle in "full" setting, with "neutral" switch popped out (neutral). - crank engine until clear fuel comes out of loosened unions. Tighten unions. - start engine and run for 15 minutes; look for leaks. Did primary fuel filters (3134 + 3133) change: 10/21/2004 engine hour 3488 5/25/2005 engine hour 3712 black fuel + filters 6/19/2005 engine hour 3751 first pretty black 8/13/2005 engine hour 3774 first pretty black Did secondary fuel filter (3166) change (handbook says every 400 hours, service manual says 500): 8/29/2001 engine hour 1417 11/19/2003 engine hour 3209 2/13/2005 engine hour 3582 6/25/2005 engine hour 3770 black Fuel lift pump: Top gasket: Perkins part 0490558 (replaced it with O-Tite 64328 o-ring, width 3/16", ID 1 7/8", OD 2 1/4", made of Buna-N). Block gasket: Perkins 36862165. Small rebuild kit: Perkins 26410044. Big rebuild kit: Perkins 26410045. Can't buy strainer or diaphragm separately; have to buy a rebuild kit or a complete new lift pump (Perkins ULPK0007). But a complete lift pump is only $57, only $9 more than a rebuild kit, and comes already assembled and ready to go. And assembling a diaphragm into a pump is hard. Pump may also be AC Delco UF series, eccentric-cam, 5/8 lbf/in2, blue spring. Leaking diesel into oil; replaced pump: 11/2003. Fuel injection pump: Old: CAV DPA 3266F608, ER57/800/0/3130, Ser 21354 S0 6-cylinder rotary pump. The "3130" is the maximum engine speed allowed. 1/2007: fuel leak out of throttle valve area. New pump 2/2007: CAV DPA 3266F608, ER57/800/0/3100, Ser 8314UO. Looking from above, rotation is clockwise. Old pump did not have a gasket between adaptor plate and engine block; I added a gasket when I installed the new pump. Bolt connecting throttle linkage to pump takes 8 mm (or maybe 5/16") socket. Fuel injectors: CAV code ZZ, holder BKBL67S5151, nozzle BDLL150S6395, setting 175 atm, working 170 atm. Service recommended every 2400-2500 hours. Looks like 2nd owner replaced nozzles 8/96. Had injectors serviced 10/2004 by realdiesel.com; the injectors had lots of carbon on the tips. New nozzles. No change in engine performance. Removing injectors: Entire fuel-return pipe across all injectors has to be removed to get any single injector out. 7/16" wrench to remove hex-bolt on top (fuel return line), 1/2" socket with extender to remove mounting bolts, 9/16" wrench to remove fuel feed line nut. If injector is stuck in hole, hammer gently from sides while prying under mounting with screwdriver. Fuel consumption: 3.5 to 4.5 GPH at cruising speed ??? Air requirements: 1500 RPM: 134 CFM. 1800 RPM: 162 CFM. 2000 RPM: 180 CFM. Calculations by original owner: 1200 RPM: 3.2 GPH. 1400 RPM: 3.6 GPH. 1600 RPM: 4.1 GPH (best efficiency). 1800 RPM: 4.3 GPH. 2000 RPM: 4.9 GPH. 2200 RPM: 5.1 GPH. 2400 RPM: 5.5 GPH. 2/2002: motor-sailed 6.5 hours at 1300-1400 RPM, using about 10 gallons, which is 1.6 GPH. 5/2003: motored 92 hours at 5+ knots, using about 125 gallons, which is 1.36 GPH, or 3.7 NMPG. Engine stop solenoid: Synchro Start 1500. Body about 3.5" long, travel about 1". Air intake: No filter, just a very coarse screen. Neck is 3" OD; vent-plug on side is about 3/8"; oil breather pipe is about 3/4" ID. Clean screen every 150-250 hours (but never needs it). Really should install oiled filter; maybe http://www.knfilters.com/ filter RC-3140, $43 at http://www.treadstar.com/cgi-bin/truckpartseast/indexkn.html But have to invent some new routing for oil breather pipe. Exhaust system: - Parts are: - manifold (gas in big tube cooled by seawater running over outside of tube) - riser-and-elbow (seawater goes up outside, gasses go up inside, then they mix at the top) - muffler - hose to stern - exhaust flapper - Manifold, elbow, riser replaced Feb 1997 by 2nd owner (he did the work himself), muffler has been added. 2nd owner did not change plumbing. - Manifold: 2nd owner agrees having salt water go through aluminum exhaust manifold is bad. Others have said there might be a heat-exchanger in there, but when the inspection ports or end-plates are opened, no small tubes are seen, just one big tube for exhaust gas, with water flowing outside it. Manifold is part 84504 (replaces PER37785571), description "6CYL/M, Alum Ex/Man", from Tradewinds Power, Miami, 305-592-9745. Aft end plate says "3748817" or "8748817" on it. Can't see much when you open inspection ports or ends of manifold. Possible source of custom 316 manifolds: Mesa Marine in Alabama ($1300 ?). From tadiesel.com: Aluminum manifold $1500, cast iron with 16 bolts across top $2500, Bowman aluminum manifold with heat-exchanger $2500. - Riser-and-elbow: The welds on the SS riser/elbow started leaking about 10/2002, probably because of vibration of the unbraced riser/elbow. 2nd owner says "The [riser/elbow] I took off lasted longer than 7 years and it was made (I think by OSCO or BARR) out of cast iron. They called it a Chrysler-type exhaust riser and elbow." and also "I copied what it had before." Elbow is item "GLEL25090D 98002000167", description "Conduit 2-1/2-90DEG-Galv Elbow", from Mercedes Electric Supply, Miami, 305-887-5550. From tadiesel.com: "The original exhaust elbow fitted to your engine is no longer available. The units shown under 4-236 on www.tad123.com have the same mounting as your 6-354." Riser/elbow is $1200 custom item from Stainless Marine, Opa-Locka FL, 305-681-7893, www.stainlessmarine.com From tadiesel.com: Flange from manifold to 3" pipe: REF# 4-236-04 The four-bolt flange with pipe thread is an item we fabricate in our shop. $95. - Changed to dry riser and custom elbow 3/2003. Pipe is galvanized, 2.5" ID, 3" OD. - Muffler is Salisbury M120 (West Marine 549360). Inlet/outlet are 3-1/8" ID. No check-valve in it. http://www.greenwichtrade.com/salisbury.htm - Exhaust pipe outside transom is 3 1/2" (or slightly less) OD. Used 4" flapper valve and cut it down: Sierra 18-4457 / West Marine 402695. - Plumbing from forward end of manifold: - pipe 1" OD ? a couple of elbows - hose 1" ID - short pipe 1" OD (3/4" x 2 1/2" galvanized nipple), to reducer (3/4" x 1/2" reducing coupler), to short pipe 3/4" OD (1/2" x close) - threads into socket at bottom of exhaust elbow; socket says "ASP 1/2 316 1000CWP USA" on it - drain plug at bottom is 1/2" ? Socket says "ASP 1/4 316 1000CWP USA" - drain plug near top is 1" ? Socket says "ASP 1/2 316 1000CWP USA" - exhaust elbow has "2-97" engraved in metal where it bolts onto exhaust manifold - exhaust elbow is not just a simple tube; it has some kind of inner tube. I guess the exhaust gasses are inside the inner tube, the salt water is between inner and outer tubes, and they mix at the top ? This would keep salt water from getting back into the exhaust manifold. - hose aft of exhaust elbow has clamps 3 3/4" sizes 52 and 56 and 60. Hose says "SS 269 Titan Marine", and is 3" or 3-1/8" ID and about 3 3/4" OD. - pipe elbow aft of hose is 3" diameter. Raw-water (sea-water) cooling: - Raw water cooling pump: Self-primes; probably don't even have to bleed water strainer. Pump is Sherwood RP-B-C (similar to R102). Repair kits Sherwood 10999 (mechanical seal, impeller and gasket) and 11068 (mechanical seal, impeller, bearings, carbon bushing for cover, gasket and cam). marineparts.com (cheaper than Depco): http://www.marineparts.com/partspages/pumps/ENGINES/PERKINS.HTM From Depco: pump $405. Also www.hypropumps.com ? Bearing is 6202 RS or 6202 2RS, $15 to $20 at NAPA. Rotating seal equivalent from http://www.johncrane.com/ ??? To remove pump from engine: - remove hoses. - remove impeller. - loosen 1/2" bolt clamping around shaft end of pump body; spread clamp a little with a screwdriver. - slide pump aft enough to separate coupling halves. - rotate pump shaft to expose allen-bolt on coupling half. - loosen allen-bolt (3/16") and separate coupling half from shaft/pump; keep coupling pieces from falling into bilge. - slide pump aft and lift clear. When installing pump onto engine: - maybe should install impeller before installing pump; it's very hard to get the impeller in while keeping the key from falling out. But then it's hard to align the coupling halves properly. - after installing impeller, stick a stiff wire down the keyway to see if the key is in the proper place. Wire should go in about 1/2". If it goes to bottom of pump, remove impeller, find key, and try again. - use anti-seize between coupling half and pump shaft. Dry-fit the parts; they should slide together fairly easily. - slide pump forward but not so far that the weep holes are covered. - the flat piece between the two coupling halves is not symmetrical; it should go in one way and not the other. Disassembling pump: - remove retaining clip from impeller end. - remove various seals and spring at impeller end. - remove inside and outside retaining clips from bearing end. - now shaft and bearing should slide out bearing end; may have to hammer from impeller end. - to get bearing off shaft, lay bearing across top of a vise and gently hammer on the end of the shaft. Same to get new bearing on. - to get carbon bushing out of cover plate, use a hammer and screwdriver to chop it it into chunks. Gently tap new bushing in, using rubbber mallet or some other cushioning to avoid breaking the bushing. Pump rebuilt: 7/19/2002 engine hour 2053 3/1/2004 engine hour 3342 - Impeller: Bolts and drain plug on raw water impeller are 7/16" head. Impeller is Sherwood 10615 (2 9/16" diameter, 1 5/8" height, 5/8" shaft, 3/16" keyway, 12 vanes, neoprene). Nitrile version is Sherwood 11843. Probably compatible is Globe 625 (blue heavy-duty), or West Marine 288779 / Jabsco kit 18948-0001 (normal), Jabsco 42730-0000, Crusader 97179, Detroit Diesel NA900012. Gasket is Sherwood 10931 / Aqua Power 1342 (vellum; store in water while out of pump; order thru auto-parts store). Faceplate / cover is Sherwood 10183 ($60). - Changing/checking impeller: Before removing impeller, put crumpled newspaper under pump to catch key if it falls out. If putting impeller into dry pump, spray in some lubricant. Impeller vanes should be pointing counterclockwise when looking into open pump, but should quickly fix themselves when pump starts spinning. After inserting impeller, stick a thin wire into the slot on the hub; the wire should go in only 1/4" or so before hitting the key. If it goes in very far, the key has fallen out. Replaced impeller: 6/14/2002 checked okay: 1/23/2004 (but should have removed it to inspect; two vanes found partially torn 2/29/2004) 3/1/2004 (with rebuild) 9/1/2004 (one vane partially torn) - If raw water cooling fails (through-hull closed or impeller broken, usually), the main indicator is the SOUND of the exhaust when looking over the stern. It will sound louder if there is no cooling water coming out. It will LOOK more or less the same with and without water. There might be more smoke than usual. - Strainer / intake hoses: There is a valve next to the intake strainer. It connects to a hose going into the bilge. I think it was intended as an emergency bilge pump: with engine running, close the through-hull valve and open the hose-valve, and the engine raw water pump will pump from the bilge. I don't think that's a good idea: the engine pump isn't very powerful, and you'll get oily gunk from the bilge into the engine raw water passages, including the heat-exchanger. I use the valve to test the bilge pumps: with engine off, open hose-valve and water from through-hull will pour into the bilge. Fresh-water (closed) cooling: - Thermostat is inside blue elbow (attached by 4 bolts) at top-front of engine. 180 degrees, number 9321. Thompson 348-180 (had to hammer rim in 4 places to make it fit). Had to fabricate two layers of gasket from 4x6 sheets of gasket material. - Coolant filler cap: was 16 lbs, but should be 7 lbs. Robertshaw RR-28. - Antifreeze: ethylene glycol. Total capacity should be ??? pints (5.5 or 4.25 gallons ?). Drain plug is on elbow under heat-exchanger; 11 MM head. There is a likely-looking petcock on the port side of the engine block near the aft end, but it's frozen solid. - Coolant changes (no recommendation in handbook): 6/1/2001 hour 1380 7/6/2001 ??? 1/20/2004 hour 3337 12/11/2004 hour 3527 (almost 3 gals out) 5/2007 approx hour 4120 - Gary (mechanic) says Perkins had two versions of cooling loop: one at front and one at side. Handbook shows loop at front; engine has loop at side. Fan belt: Gates 8431 or Perkins 8431 or maybe B100 Tri-Power AX48 V80. 50" x 1/2" x 38 degrees. 12.5 x 1208/1270 mm. Belt goes on fwd slot on viscous damper, aft slot on primary alternator. Belt replaced: 7/2007. Heat-exchanger: Perkins NA001545 (normal) or NA001545CN (cupro-nickel), Sen-Dure 1814-3-5 (normal) or 1814-3-7 (cupro-nickel). 4-1/8" diameter, 15-1/2" long, 8 holes to bolt it to the coolant tank, pipes are 2" OD and 1-1/8" OD. http://i-netmarine.com/he/heat_exchanger-perkins4_6_cyl_models.htm http://www.manifoldwarehouse.com/retsk_perkin.htm End cover assembly 5374, $16 from Sen-Dure: includes big rubber gasket, and gum rubber washer for bolt. Washer goes between metal cover and rubber gasket. Replaced by mechanic 6/2001; new is Sen-Dure something. Took it out to clean it 12/2004: had a little gunk and seaweed, but otherwise fine. When re-installing heat-exchanger, leave seawater end open while filling top with coolant; check for leaks from fresh to seawater sides. Zincs: one on heat-exchanger. To check zinc, DON'T unscrew it: that usually makes it snap off. Instead, unbolt the end-cap on the heat-exchanger and look at the zinc from the side. When installing new zinc, use plenty of anti-seize on threads of the zinc pencil and threads of the brass cap. Body of zinc is 2" long; threads add another 3/8". Zinc body is 1/2" diameter. Threads of cap are 5/8" diameter (3/8 NPT). Complete: West Marine 194274 / Canada CME-1-C Pencil only: West Marine 194290 / Canada CME-1-S Replacing it every 200-250 hours seems to be right. Replaced: 5/24/2001 hour 1390 approx 8/25/2001 hour 1417 3/11/2002 hour 1616 5/28/2002 hour 1841 11/22/2002 hour 2512 9/19/2003 hour 3033 4/7/2004 hour 3360 1/27/2005 hour 3536 10/14/2005 hour 3783 7/14/2006 hour 4016 Starter motor: Delco-Remy series 35MT, type 175, model 1113695, serial 72K04, volts "12 G L", rotation CW. Solenoid bracket has 1115510 on it. Solenoid terminals: - Nearest to motor connects through strap to motor. - Middle/small near engine goes to thin white wire. - Farthest from motor (big) goes to 3 red wires. - Small terminal farthest from engine is unused. Starting circuit: From Charles Culotta (cculotta at iamerica.net) on TWGL list: The way I solved the same [starting] relay problem is the use of a standard $12 solenoid from the auto store. Mechanics commonly call it a "Ford" solenoid as Ford has used them forever and still does. I replaced the Perkins solenoid 17 years ago and have had no further problem. Note also that the starter has another of the same type solenoid mounted on the top of it (usually). Did the same there. Here you must add a ground wire. Another thing, the Perkins engine shutdown solenoid can also be replaced with an off-the-shelf model that may simply require a little mounting bracket modification ... Retorquing cylinder head bolts: doesn't seem to be a periodic maintenance item for this engine. Torque should be 85 lb-ft. Adjusting valve clearances: recommended every 2400-2500 hours. Doubt it's ever been done. Tried to do it 2/2005: loosened injectors to remove compression. But need leverage to rotate crankshaft. Nut on front is 1.5". Installed valve cover gasket ($30) from Foley 4/2002. Flipped gasket over 2/2005; was leaking at aft end. Sensors on engine block: - port side of fresh water pump: temperature, wired in parallel with ??? - middle of port side: oil-pressure, to buzzer. - port side near aft end: oil-pressure, to gauge. - aft end near top: temperature, to gauge. Engine mounts: bolts are 3/4" diameter, nuts are 1-1/8". Probably type D108 or D109 from http://www.tadiesels.com/mounts.html I measured: A 5 B 2.25 C 5.25 D 6.5 E 3.375 F 3/4 diam or less Bolt seating: "On our Gulfstar 37 there is a steel plate glassed to the bottom of the stringer. That is tapped." But in Magnolia, there is no access to "the bottom of the stringer". Nut: 3/4" - 6 fine thread. Installed tachometer sender adapter 12/2002: part 8875 from fireboy-xintex, or part 06060 from Glendinning Marine. Has grease nipple; grease it periodically. Never could find a tach sender to fit it; unused. Paint: Used Napa / Martin Senour "Olds Engine Blue 638" on valve cover. Used Dupli-Color high heat ceramic DH 1604 white spray-paint on exhaust riser and raw water pump and port side of engine block and heat-exchanger. Diesel mechanics: Dockside Services, Louis Abramo, 305-852-4689, Mangrove Marina Tavernier. Port Engineers, MM 102.5 OS Key Largo, 305-451-1864, www.portengineers.com, port1 at bellsouth.net Eddie's Mobile Marine, 305-451-7007, Key Largo area. John Moore, Keys Boatyard, Marathon. Diesel shop near West Marine in Marathon: Marathon Boatyard Diesel, 305-743-3771, dieselshop at marathonboatyard.com Have documents: Perkins handbook for marine diesel engine, Perkins Workshop Manual (pub no 601 SER 0891 1060), Sherwood raw water pump catalog. Can buy service manual from: W. A. Kraft Corp, www.kraftpower.com, 800-969-6121 or perkinspower.com, 800-223-3225, SER1060E $78.54 + tax + shipping or Foley Industrial Engines, http://www.foleyengines.com/ (800) 233-6539 Perkins Manuals with a sample of Foley Tech Tips and Dr. Diesel's Shop Kinks. Your cost on the above is $85 plus $10 for two day shipping and handling. Parts: P C Industries, http://www.powerlinecomponents.com/ or Diesel Parts Sales, 800-683-4439, Texas, http://www.dieselpartssales.com/perkins.html or Foley Industrial Engines, http://www.foleyengines.com/ (800) 233-6539, MA or Lane Parts Company, 800-210-8721, http://www.laneparts.com/perkins.cfm Phone 206-789-4600. Ask for Larry Stewart of Stewart's Marine Engine and Machine Works. He's got a few older engines in stock and parts for almost anything Perkins ever built. A genuine resource for Perkins owners. Trans Atlantic Diesels http://www.tadiesels.com/ Perkins marine diesel engines have been our specialty for over 30 years Also BW transmission, including shaft coupling 800-927-9295 British Marine is a Perkins Master Dealer located in Oakland, California http://www.britishmarine-usa.com/ 800-400-2757 From Brett Hoopes, bhoopes at seattlecca.org, 2/2004: 1980, GS44 Since we have rebuilt the entire boat, if there is anything that anyone needs, let me know, we have many parts that are up for sale. Ports, pumps, old head furler and many extra other things. Helpful 6.354 owners: Dr. R. Ramirez Brunet, mabera at caribe.net DirtRdEarl at aol.com From John Dunsmoor: Good Perkins dealer in Ft Lauderdale: Complete Yacht Service, 200 SW 33rd St Fort Lauderdale FL 33315-3328, 954-462-6977 http://www.completeyachtservice.com/index.htm From Gary Elder and other sources: Depco; http://www.depco-pump.com/ 727-446-1656 ... mostly pumps Perkins parts: D&L marine service, Ft Myers; 941-482-6363 Tradewinds Power Corp, Miami; 305-592-9745 Tradewinds Power Corp, Seabring Fl; 941-382-1206 Perkins Power Corp, Orange Park Fl; 904-278-9919 Perkins Power Corp, www.perkinspower.com Boatman's I-Net Marine, 800-380-2628 Panhandle Marine and Fabrication, Panama City, Fl. 850-784-0072 Alternators and starters and batteries: The Battery Shack, 1779 Overseas Marathon, 305-743-0011, 800-860-4794. Bob Herman. From Nathan Moser: Our perkins bellows out quite a bit of white smoke at startup, but once warm, runs clean. I've had two mechanics look at it, one before the purchase, one after. The former replaced an oil pump, a fuel pump, adjusted valve timing, and cleaned injectors. Little, if any, improvement, but at least I wasn't paying for that guy. The latter mechanic simply said "oh, there's no problem, perkins just do that," explaining that oil tends to pool at the head of the valves while quiescent, and gets burned off at startup. My father-in-law's morgan 44 has a smaller 4-cylinder perkins, and indeed, it does the same thing. ============================================================= Engine Compartment ------------------ Air-conditioning: There are 2 systems: main salon AC, and fore/aft cabins AC. Each system consists of a water intake (through-hull and valve), water strainer, water pump, and compressor. Water intakes: intake for main salon AC is under forward strainer, intake for fore/aft cabins AC is under batteries. Water strainers: forward strainer is for fore/aft cabins AC, middle strainer is for main salon AC. Water pumps: port one is main salon AC, starboard one is fore/aft cabins AC. Compressors: bottom one is main salon AC (Sager model HA2, serial 34118, 16000 BTU, 115V 15 Amp), top one is fore/aft cabins AC (Sager model HAO, serial 34119, 8000 BTU, 115V 8 Amp). Systems have base valves (good), not Schrader valves. Forw/aft system pressures 200/60-70 in 10/2001. There are 3 zones: fore cabin, main salon, aft cabin. Each zone has a thermostat and a fan. Water strainers (four of them): All are same model: "Balto 30 Md. Gross Ech. Lab." Body is approx 4" diameter and 6.5" tall. Plastic body is 3-1/4" diameter. Flat gaskets at top and bottom, which I replaced with O-rings: 3-1/2" OD, 3-1/8" ID, 1/8" thick. Metal strainer is 1-3/4" diameter. Middle bolt is 3/8" diameter. Outside bolts are 1/4-20, about 7.5" long. The outside bolts and nuts are in bad condition: frozen and/or dezinced. Inlet/outlet are 1" pipe. Engine intake strainer is near compartment door. Three in a row between genset and engine: Forward is fore/aft air conditioner, middle is main salon air conditioner, aft is genset. Washers on top lid: 2 5/8" OD x 3/8 wide x 1 7/8" ID. 1" OD x 1/4" wide x 3/8" ID. Possible replacements: Groco WSB-1000 / WM 2666055 or Groco SA-1000-S. AC incandescent lights in engine compartment are controlled by "outlets" switch on AC electrical panel. Fluorescent light in engine compartment is DC. Bulb is 17" long plus prongs; Fett Electric F15T80. Inside walls painted with Behr Premium Plus number 7050 Ultra Pure White interior satin enamel paint (acrylic latex; mildew resistant) from Home Depot. ============================================================= Engine-mounted alternator ------------------------- Gave it away 7/2001. Pincor / Pioneer Gen-E-Motor model GBRF 4000 HDV type 5162, 3800 Watts continuous, 15.2 Amps continuous, 4600 Watts intermittent, 7000 Watts surge, 1-phase 3-wire 60 Hertz 115/230 AC, 3600 RPM, bought 7/75. 4 KW switches and box in engine compartment and "AC" switch on binnacle are associated with it. Have documents: owner's guide and parts list ============================================================= Forward Head ------------ Don't use shower; everything gets wet. Shower sump pump is under sole near oven; can be used as a bilge pump. Shower sump pump switch is knob to right of sink; Cole Hersee M-482; 10 amps at 12 VDC. "Shower Pump" switch on electrical panel must be on to supply power to this switch. ============================================================= Freezer ------- Custom-built. Copeland (Copelametic) compressor under settee and in forward wall of engine compartment (worst place to get cool air). Copeland EASL-0033-1AA-081. Very accessible from main salon. Dryer mounted on forward wall of engine compartment, inside. Was designed to use R12 refrigerant (an ozone-damaging CFC; heavily taxed by EPA; can be replaced with 414, which is less efficient). Charged with R414B in 10/2001. AC-powered, air-cooled. Dual holding plates. Works better if engine compartment door is open (better air flow), cooler compartment. No documents at all. http://www.copeland-corp.com/ Got an old spec sheet from Emerson / Copeland 11/2003. Says model ESAL-033 is: 1/3 HP motor. 19-1/2" L x 14-1/2" W x 11-7/16" H. Base mounting centers at 13-1/8" x 12-5/8". Liquid line valve is 1/4" Fl. Suction line valve is 1/2" Fl. Total weight about 96 lbs. Pump-down capacity 90% == 3.0 lbs. Compressor model HAK*-0033. Nameplate 115-1-60 amperage 5.6 amps. Condenser with R-12, 90 F ambient with 80 F suction gas going in: Evap Temp Suct Press BTU/Hour -5 F 6.7 lbs 1800 -15 F 2.5 lbs 1340 -25 F 2.3 " 930 -35 F 8.4 " (???) 595 Capacity goes up or down 6% for each 10 F change in ambient. Running characteristics: When off: cabin temp contents temp range hours ---------- -------- ---------- ----- 76-84 small -10 to +30 60 84-91 small +9 to +26 17 86 small +16 to +29 15 84 small +8 to +21 22.5 85 small +10 to +22 22.5 84 small +10 to +26 25 84 small +7 to +24 30 80 small +4 to +26 37 80 small +6 to +21 29 81 small +5 to +21 33 81 small +4 to +24 35 81 small +4 to +27 29 71 small -5 to +20 49.5 75 small +5 to +23 35.3 74 small -7 to +24 56.5 77 medium +2 to +25 38.2 When on: cabin temp contents temp range hours ---------- -------- ---------- ----- 85 small +30 to +9 1.3 86 small +26 to +16 1.0 91 small +29 to +8 4.9 86 small +22 to +10 2.5 82 small +26 to +7 3.9 81 small +24 to +4 4.5 80 small +26 to +6 4.1 82 small +27 to +5 5.0 84 small +21 to 0 5.3 81 small +21 to +4 4.0 81 small +24 to +4 4.5 73 none +75 to -5 9.8 70 small +20 to +5 3.2 73 small +23 to -7 5.3 76 small +24 to +2 6.0 +10 seems to be temperature where holding plates freeze. Ice-box dimensions: Front is 36" x 36". Top is 25" deep on left, 36" wide, 31" deep on right. Lid is 12" x 24". Inside is 29" wide, but 21" wide between holding plates. Inside is 21" deep at top, about 6" deep at bottom. Inside is 28" high. Estimate the interior is 4 to 5 cubic feet. Insulation seems to be 3" all around. Holding plates fill the entire sides inside, so the sides can't be made smaller to install more insulation. Technicians: SALT, Marathon, 305-289-1150, www.salt-systems.com, $65/hour. Doug McVickers, Islamorada, 305-664-8466, $70/hour. "Cool-Running Dave", Marathon, 305-743-2335. Told guy at Sea Wiz in Marathon that I'd like to replace mechanism with a 12-volt water-cooled unit, and he said get an inverter instead, the AC compressors are more efficient than the DC compressors. ============================================================= Fuel ---- 230 gallons (original specs say 225). Not sure of tank material; aluminum covered with fiberglass ? Full fuel tank == about 600 mile range. Same tank used by engine and genset. There are fuel-shutoff valves on both the genset line and the engine line. 18 inches of total tank depth at measuring point. Fuel added 12/17/2001: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 115 11.25 10 125 13 (bad reading ?) 20 135 12 30 145 12.5 40 155 13.25 50 165 14 60 175 14.25 72 187 15 80 195 15.5 90 205 16.25 100 215 16.75 110 225 17.25 115 230 overflow/frothed Fuel added 1/13/2002: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 145 12.5 50 195 15.25 75 220 17.25 Fuel added 2/11/2002: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 135 12 ? 25 160 13.7 50 185 14.7 75 210 16.25 85 220 17 94.2 229 overflow/frothed Fuel added 4/1/2002: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 50 4.5 5 55 5.0 Fuel added 4/1/2002: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 55 5.0 20.5 75 7.5 40 95 9.0 100 155 13.25 Fuel added 5/18/2002: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 65 6.25 150 215 17.0 Fuel added 6/8/2002: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 35 2.25 104 140 12.5 Fuel added 8/2/2002: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 40 3.5 150 190 15.5 Injector cleaner added 9/19/2002. Fuel added 9/21/2002: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 30 1.9 50 80 8.0 Fuel added 10/7/2002: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 25 1.5 179 205 16.5 Fuel added 10/23/2002: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 140 12.25 75 215 17.1 Fuel added 11/18/2002: 40 gallons, didn't measure before and after. Fuel added 11/20/2002: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 55 5.2 100 155 13.2 Fuel added 3/28/2003: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 70 7.0 139 210 17.0 Fuel added 5/14/2003: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 115 11.0 105 220 17.3 Fuel added 6/8/2003: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 50 5.0 75 125 ? ??? Fuel added 6/13/2003: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 95 9.0 105 200 16.0 Fuel added 7/19/2003: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 45 approx 3.6 134 180 approx 14.7 Fuel added 9/19/2003: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 70-75 7.1 155 225-230 overflow Fuel added 10/7/2003: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 185 ??? 20 205 ??? Fuel added 10/7/2003: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 95 9.0 125 220 ??? Fuel added 3/30/2004: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 65 6.25 50 115 ??? Fuel added 5/24/2004: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 30 approx 2.4 75 105 10.5 Fuel added 10/16/2004: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 50 4.6 61 111 11 Fuel added 1/30/2005: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 20 ? 1.3 ? 196 215 ? ??? Fuel added 3/10/2005: Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 150 13 45 195 16 ? Fuel added 6/2005: 20 gallons from Luperon. Fuel added 10/2005: ??? gallons from Luperon. Fuel added 11/2005: 5 gallons in Boqueron. Fuel added 12/2005: 26 gallons in Ponce. ... stopped keeping track in here somewhere ... Fuel added 11/11/2006 (engine hour about 4040): Gals Added Gals in Tank Inches 0 45 4.8 187 235 17+ (overfill) So 1 inch == 11 to 13 gallons. But tank narrows at the bottom, so a low-inch is less fuel than a high-inch. Add fuel slowly to avoid overloading vent and getting backsplash up the fill hose. If you have to use a large pump nozzle, use a funnel and keep a pool of fuel in it, with no bubbles. Tank needs bigger vent and vent line. But vent line fitting on top of tank is in a very tight place, jammed between tank fill fitting and a bulkhead; will have to do some major work to get to it. Fuel tank has 6"x12" access plate in top; accessible by removing main table. Plate is held on by 36 screws. Gasket is cork. Underneath are two access holes, on either side of a baffle. The holes are tiny: forward one is 2"x2", aft one is 2"x4". Second owner had the fuel "polished" when he bought the boat in 1996. Major fuel-contamination problem 7/2005. Biocide: Biobor JF. ============================================================= Genset ------ Onan 7.5 KW model MDJE-3CR/2268B, serial 1172521097 or 1172521096E ?, 2-cylinder diesel, 16.5 BHP, runs at 1800 RPM, weighs 560 lbs, purchased 3/2/1974. Onan block with Yanmar injectors. Continuous rating: 7.5 KW, 31.3 Amps (doesn't make sense ?). 2nd owner said "stay under 30 amps; wiring is AWG 10". Have documents: installation bulletin T-021, operators manual and parts catalog, service manual for MDJA/MDJB/MDJC series. Onan MDJE Operating Instructions: http://www.gbwoodies.com/OwnersManuals/DorryManuals/OnanOperator/index.htm http://www.gbwoodies.com/OwnersManuals/DorryManuals/OnanOperator/OnanOper.zip To start: Disconnect starboard-aft (engine starting) pair of batteries from engine and connect genset cables to those batteries. Turn off all AC loads. Switch from Shore Power to Ships Power. Switch to left of electrical panel should be set to "Onan 7 KW". Hold Pre-Heat switch down for 30 seconds or so (hear a relay "clunk" when you press the switch down). Draws 20-30 amps ! Hold Stop/Start switch to Start, hear genset engine cranking, release switch when genset engine starts. If starter does not crank at all, check to make sure red "reset" button on genset is pressed in, not popped out. "Ships" red light should light up. AC voltage should read 122 or so. [But analog gauge reads about 15 volts low 3/2005!] Go up and verify that exhaust cooling water is coming out (starboard side). Let warm up for a minute before applying loads. To stop: Turn off all AC loads. Let genset cool down with no load for a couple of minutes. Hold Stop/Start switch to Stop, hear genset engine stop. Switch from Ships Power to Shore Power or Off. 4 / Off / 7 KW switch to left of electrical panel should be set to "Off". Reconnect starboard-aft (engine starting) pair of batteries to engine. Cooling system: - Temp gauge under companionway runs cooler than temp gauge on binnacle. Disconnected binnacle gauge 8/2002 because both gauges weren't working. But now I'm not sure which gauge is connected. Wiring: green == instrument light black == ground red and white == signal - Normal operating temperature is 180, but takes hours to get there. Takes 10 minutes or more to get to 140. - Thermostat: Onan part 309-0130, starts to open at 145, fully open at 165 degrees. Apparently underneath fresh water tank, between tank and block. Onan dealer says engine should run cool (maybe 160 under big load?); lots of people remove thermostat. - Antifreeze: ethylene glycol. - Raw water cooling pump self-primes once water strainer has been bled. - Coolant filler cap is accessible through access panel in top of sound shield. Was 14 lb cap; replaced with 13 lb cap 11/2001. - Fan belt: Napa 25-7350, 1-1 7350 Gates LX 089S, maybe Onan part 511-0067. 25/64" x 35 5/8" (9.5/10 mm x 905 mm). - Impeller: Onan 131-0160 (gasket 131-0161). 6 vanes. No West Marine equivalent ??? In their terms, impeller is A=1-9/16, B=3/4, C=5/16, SF. If putting impeller into dry pump, spray in some lubricant. Impeller vanes should be pointing counterclockwise when looking into open pump. Replaced impeller: 4/1/2001 8/18/2002 (was shredded) checked okay: 1/23/2004 Oil dipstick is inside oil filler cap. Low-to-full == 3/8 quart ? Oil filter: Napa Gold 1307 or AC PF13. Oil change: 3.5 quarts. Copper pipe from oil sump comes up to top/side of engine, has pipe fitting on top. Steps: - run genset 10 minutes to get oil warm - remove front of sound shield - open oil filler cap - put plastic bags under/around filter - unscrew filter (use wrench), remove, pour oil out, discard - wipe up spilled oil, especially from pan - drain oil from oil sump pipe (11/16"); probably have to prime pump to do it; should get 3.5 quarts - install new filter (hand-tighten) - fill engine with oil - close filler cap and drain pipe - let sit, check for leaks, check oil level - run genset to circulate oil - let cool, look for leaks, check oil level - reinstall front of sound shield Oil type: same as main engine. Did oil and filter change: 5/19/2000 (previous owner) 8/24/2001 11/24/2001 5/13/2002 Fuel lift pump and secondary fuel filter assembly: Onan 149-1703. Rebuilt the fuel lift pump 12/2002. The bolts attaching it to the block have Allen heads, but use Allen-fitting on multi-tool handle from socket set, instead of usual L-shaped Allen wrench. Fuel filters: Fuel pump filter screen (Onan part 149-0463) and fuel pump bowl gasket (Onan part 149-0517). Not sure, but it seems the screen should be installed first, then the washer, so the screen ends up above the washer. Primary (forward): water separator Napa Gold 3365 (10 micron). Secondary (aft): Napa Gold 3366 (6 micron). Changing fuel filters: - turn off main fuel valve (on top of tank). - remove two front panels of sound shield. - fuel pump sediment filter: - loosen finger-nut at bottom of sediment bowl. - rock the nut forward (to port; toward engine). - remove the bowl, empty out dirty diesel. - reach up into housing and remove O-ring and metal mesh strainer. Nothing holds them in. - clean bowl, O-ring and strainer. - fill bowl with diesel and reassemble. - primary and secondary filters: - to remove secondary (right) filter, have to remove primary (left) filter, remove oil pressure gauge, and put manual priming lever in "up" position. Then there's just enough room to swing an open-end wrench on the secondary filter bolt if you switch among 3 positions for the wrench. Secondary filter is supposed to be good for some huge number of hours (3000?). - for each filter, loosen 5/8" nut at top and remove entire filter. - discard filter. - fill new filter with diesel. - install filter onto mount and tighten nut. - turn on main fuel valve (on top of tank). - bleed fuel system: - loosen nut at top of secondary filter. - pump priming lever on fuel pump until clear fuel comes out of top of secondary filter. - leave priming lever in down position. - tighten nut at top of secondary filter. - start genset and run for 15 minutes; look for leaks. - reinstall two front panels of sound shield. Did primary fuel filter change: 8/30/2001 5/27/2002 12/8/2002 Did secondary fuel filter change: 5/27/2002 Fuel consumption: ??? (combustion air is 32 CFM) My guess, from specs on comparable gensets: 0.4 gal/hour when lightly loaded, 0.8 gal/hour when very heavily loaded. Injectors: Holders have "FKB35S1085A Fipco Yanmar Japan" and "G2" on them. Nozzles say "FDN 6S526". Adjust to open at 1750 PSI. Had them rebuilt by Everglades Diesel (through Marathon Boatyard Diesel) for $263 12/2002. Diagrams in manuals aren't quite right; order of parts is: - head - fuel cup gasket (110-0419, copper, wide+thin) - heat shield (147-044, steel, thick) - heat shield gasket (147-0043, asbestos) - another heat shield (147-044, steel, thick) - gasket (copper, small) - nozzle assembly Can buy new nozzles from www.fredholmesfuelinjection.com for about $40 each. Part 147-0268. Fuel injection pump 2A-80E-9167-A1 7H 80263 Glow-plugs: Onan 333-0106 "GE 6A576G2 V11 W95 LH" stamped on them. 3/8" diameter. Resistance 1.6-1.7 ohms. Air intake manifold heater plug: Onan 154-0712 Champion AG-3 12V. Resistance 0.5 ohms. After changing main engine thermostat to make engine run at 180 instead of 140, engine compartment gets hot enough to pop thermal overload breaker on genset, which prevents it from starting. Push reset breaker in to get genset to start, or wait until compartment cools. Zincs: Port end of heat-exchanger (11/16" hex head). Starboard/aft end of heat-exchanger (1/4" square head). Replaced (which end ?): 8/30/2001 11/2/2001 Starter motor: all 3 mounting bolts have 9/16" heads. Nuts connecting wires to solenoid are 3/8" and 1/2". Reconditioned 10/2001 says "12V 1H 60" on solenoid mounting bracket. Top lug on solenoid goes to starter motor, small middle lug goes to thin white wire to control box, bottom lug goes to thick red wire to battery and moderately thick wire to control box. Thick negative wire from battery goes to angle-bracket holding starter motor to engine block. Got reconditioned starter motor and solenoid 10/2001 because old starter motor got overheated and started giving burnt-insulation smell. Got another reconditioned starter motor and solenoid 1/2002 because solenoid started sticking. Took reconditioned starter motor and solenoid back 5/2002 because solenoid started sticking again, and this time the starter guy said the solenoid was misaligned, and fixed it. Engine mounts have 11/16" nuts. Glow plugs: Air intake plug is Champion AG-3. Cylinder plugs: ??? Also an oil heater plug ??? Heat-exchanger: Young Radiator Company design 250, pressure 150 PSI, temp 350 F, part number B214106, serial number 274486, about 12" long. Decompression solenoid: Prestolite SSC-4003. Battery was West Marine dual-purpose SeaVolt 745, bought 12/2000. Removed 2/2007. Old battery charger was charging genset battery also. Removed that connection (orange wire left in place) when new battery charger installed 5/2002. Genset generator is supposed to charge genset battery via internal feedback loop. Guess the old connection was convenient if boat is connected to shore power for a long time, and genset is not run. Exhaust muffler: Old: Vernalift VP canister muffler. Part number obscured, maybe 130015xxx or 13001. Canister is 7" diameter, 9" tall; base is 7" square. Managed to blow it up 10/2003 by starting the genset while the exhaust through-hull valve was closed. New 1/2004: Centek 1500003. Canister is 8" diam, 7" tall; base is 10.5" diam. Inlet and outlet both through top. Hoses to muffler are 1-5/8" ID. Genset had misfiring problem 5/2002: would lose power, governor would hunt up and down trying to keep it at proper RPM. Turned out to be loose connection of heavy air-duct to engine block. Wouldn't think that connection is very critical, but a glow-plug and rebreather are upstream of it, so maybe it is important. Onan service center: Capt TJ Inc (formerly Belle Marine Service), 3988 Overseas Hwy (gulfside) Marathon, just east of AIM, 305-743-4291, Tom Cooke. Onan Customer Response Center / dealer locator: 800-888-6626 Parts: PPL Motor Homes, 800-755-4775, pplrv@att.net, http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/onan-rv-generator-parts.htm Adams Electrical Service in Miami http://www.adamselectric.com/search/searchspares.html (online price lookup!) sales@adamselectric.com 305-856-2930 Cummins Southeastern Power (distributor) (Tampa) southeasternpower@cummins.com 800-338-2519 Onan RV Generator Store http://www.funroads.com/onanstore/home.jhtml Make heat-exchanger for Onan genset, cheap: Heat Exchangers Inc in West Babylon, New York ============================================================= Hull ---- Bottom paint: Use modified-epoxy bottom paint, which is hard (not ablative). Takes about 2 gallons to do one coat. Painted 7/1995. 2nd owner said "did 200 egg-sized blisters in 7/1995". Painted 7/2001 in Marathon Marina and Boatyard. Not sure if any sanding was done. Used Pettit Trinidad 75 black (1875 or 1079). Painted 1/2003 in Marathon Marina and Boatyard. Paint was in good shape; could have waited longer. No sanding done. Patched various gelcoat holes with 3M Marine High Strength Repair Filler 051131-46012 (vinylester) and 3M Premium Filler 051131-46004 (vinylester), then barrier-coated them with InterProtect 2000E. Some evidence of blistering: about a hundred little pinprick-holes oozing a little viscous liquid; tried to sniff it but couldn't smell anything. No soft spots or actual raised blisters found. Used Pettit Trinidad 75 black (1875 or 1079). Painted 5/2006 in Independent Boatyard, Benner Bay, St Thomas USVI. Paint had some chunks flaked out of it, but generally was adhering well. Half a dozen bulging blisters along port waterline, a couple weeping; should have punctured and ground them out. A few weeping blisters 6 inches above bottom of keel, none of them soft, mostly on the starboard side. Yard sanded the bottom. Used Pettit 6627 Tie Coat Primer, then Pettit Trinidad 75 red (1675). Put on 3 gallons, about 1.6 coats or so. There is a Dynaplate (unused); connectors right under engine compartment door. Found a small drilled hole in the middle of the transom, about 2 inches above waterline, 1/2003. Seems to penetrate only outer layer of hull. Epoxied it closed. Found 1/2003 that aft bulkhead of aft head has separated from the tabbing holding it to the hull (look inside starboard berth, forward of holding tank). A foot or two of rub-rail is missing on starboard side, at extreme aft end. Believe this is result of a collision with a dock during second owner's time. He changed controls from separate-throttle-and-gearshift to single-lever system as a reaction to this collision. Removed external strainers from aft head intake, forward/center AC intake, and forward head intake 1/2003. All had unfilled screw-holes under them, too. Engine intake, genset intake, and port AC intake through-hulls all have external strainers built into them (one-piece through-hull-and-strainer). Rudder and skeg: Rudder is 31" high x 28" at bottom and 16" at top. Skeg is 32" high x 6" at bottom and 18" at top. Rudder shoe at bottom of rudder skeg: Was loose, missing a side-screw 5/2006. Replaced two screws with a through-bolt. Front screw is not seating well; need to fill the hole and re-drill it. When hauling out: - A lift strap can go about 1 foot aft of mizzen mast. - Best to remove the mizzen topping lift and mizzen backstay, and put the boat into the lift backwards. If you put it in forwards, the forestay may rub on the cross-piece of the lift. ============================================================= Instruments ----------- Binnacle instrument panel: Left to right across top: - engine coolant temperature gauge - red LED indicating primary bilge pump running - red light indicating oil pressure alarm - red LED indicating secondary bilge pump running - ammeter (unused unless old spare automotive-type alternator is being used) Left to right across bottom: - engine oil pressure gauge - engine tachometer - genset coolant temperature gauge (disconnected ?) LEDs: Radio Shack 276-270; 12 MA typical, 20 MA max; 9/32" mounting hole. Oil pressure alarm sounds a buzzer in the binnacle, as well as lighting a light on the binnacle instrument panel. Depth-sounder is reading water depth minus 1 foot. Switch next to depth gauge: up == instruments on, middle == instruments off, down == instruments on, instrument lights on. Rudder position indicator is disconnected; there is a spare potentiometer for it somewhere. Potentiometer and connection to rudder are under settee in aft cabin. Potentiometer settings: - full counter-clockwise: meter = Starboard - slightly clockwise: meter = Ahead - slightly more clockwise: meter = Port GPS's: - Magellan handheld NAV 5000D, serial number 1A023287. No batteries; connect it to cable in front-center of cockpit. Has integral antenna. When it starts, either: - press POS to have it auto-locate, or - press SETUP, enter lat/long within 300 miles of your position, then press POS. Takes a long time to find satellites and download data. After it's running, - press POS to see position, or - press VEL to see speed over ground. - Garmin fixed-mount GPS128, 12-channel, serial number 94746748. Used antenna mounted on port-aft railing. Antenna stopped working 10/2004; replaced it with a Garmin GA 29F 11/2004 and mounted it on pilothouse roof. VHF radios: - Cockpit: Standard Horizon Eclipse +. Not using port/tall antenna on main mast; kept working when that antenna removed. - Navigation table: ICOM IC-M120, serial number 16552. Antenna wire seems to head towards mizzen mast. Has shorter range than cockpit radio, at least at low power. - Handheld: ICOM IC-M3A, serial number 56512. Battery case type BP-204. NiCd battery. Purchased 12/2001. Battery case and batteries destroyed by saltwater soon afterward, but radio still works. - VHF Antennae: - 4-foot / 3 dB on main mast, on port side. Fiberglass wand was just standing in bracket, not attached, 5/2003. Thin white wire to bracket had cracks in the insulation. Wand is 55" long; base of it stands 6" below top of mast metal. Removed wand, left wire and bracket 5/2003. - 2-foot / 0 dB on main mast, on starboard side. Turned wand upside down 5/2003 to reduce mast height. - 4-foot / 3 dB on mizzenmast. Cable goes through port-aft corner of shower ceiling. Fiberglass peeling off antenna 11/2004. - There is a 6-position antenna switch under the navigation table, but none of the antenna wires go to it. One bare wire goes in; nothing comes out. Cell-phone: Ericsson R278d, serial number B0601F6NJN. NiMH battery, type 3000020, 800 mAh, 4.8 V, serial number 11224522 CTDANP. No longer in service, hurrah ! RADAR: Furuno 1621, 1.5 KW, 16 NM. To turn on, press Power button, wait until it is in standby mode, then press T X Stby button to take out of standby mode. To turn off, press Power and T X Stby buttons simultaneously. Fuse: Fuji 5A inline in white sleeve under navigation table. Shortwave receiver: Grundig YB400PE, serial 469453. From Durham Radio 9/2001. http://www.durhamradio.com/ http://www.durhamradio.com/grundig-yb400pe.htm Takes 6 AA batteries or a 9 V 200 mA feed. Y-cable to laptop: Radio Shack 42-2496. Compass on binnacle: Danforth Constellation flush-mount, serial number A19564. Fluid type "DW 35". Has 4 corrector screws and a brass screwdriver for adjusting them. Tachometer: Motorola Alt/Hour/Tach, model 12HT4A L, serial number 8414 0006. Have data sheet 68P44801A30-A-G.I. for Motorola 12AT series tachometers, and it says it's for 12- or 14-pole alternator, with pulley ratio of 1.8 to 2.8. Have to take small plastic cover off back of tachometer to see "calibration control slot"; adjust with insulated-shaft screwdriver; clockwise to increase RPM reading. Prestolite Electric in Arcade NY purchased the tachometer business from Motorola. Replacement tachometer is Prestolite part 104-537a, according to Prestolite. Wiring (looking from above/behind, reading label): - thick white wire to right-hand terminal. - thick red wire to left-hand terminal. - daisy-chained thick black wire (ground) to terminal on bracket. - joined brown and black wires to bottom terminal. Engine throttle: 2nd owner replaced two-lever controls with single gear-and-throttle lever after an accident. Gear/throttle control body has "7222" stamped on it. Throttle cable: Old cable broke 3/5/2005 at top end. Old cable had "T 9FTK2" stamped on sleeve; cable sleeve is about 7'8" long; cable tip-to-tip is about 9' long; grey-colored. New cable: Teleflex part CC17209. Yamaha-type ends. Black-colored. Instructions say do not lubricate. Gearshift cable: ??? red-colored. Looks identical to throttle cable but much longer. Binoculars: Fujinon Mariner 7x50 WPC-XL with compass and night-light. Serial number 055717. Purchased 12/2001. NiteGuard (from Lectro Science) handheld portable spotlight. 500,000 CP, cordless rechargeable. 6+ volts ? Tip-positive. Charger: LSI 6V DC 300 mA. ACR Firefly Plus 1916 (personal flashlight / strobe), in bracket next to companionway. ACR 1842 DistresSOS light; no serial number. Supposed to replace batteries annually. Old TV/VCR: Symphonic model TVCR9D1, serial V17544357. Manufactured April 1995. DC 12V 60W, AC 120V 60Hz 75W. Contains ISI 125V 3A fuse. DC power feed doesn't work. Videotape playing doesn't work ? Whole unit is dead 8/2004: won't power on. New TV/boombox: GPX / Yorx model TVB544, sernum 0405016591, mfg 5/2004, bought 9/2004. www.gpx.com AC adapter puts out 1200 MA at 12 VDC. AM/FM/CD-player car stereo: Audiovox Rampage ACD-16. Gets a bit hot if used while engine is running; I don't think it expects 14+ volts DC supplied. Knot-meter: Standard Communications Horizon SL45 (serial number 81U190229) with (I think) SIA53 Speed Impeller. Through-hull for sensor is in engine compartment sole, between front end of engine and forward battery. There is a flapper valve in the through-hull, and a dummy plug for sealing while the sensor is out. Wind-meter: Standard Communications Horizon WS45, serial number 77U170051. Depth sounder: Standard Communications DS-1, serial number 50U360452. Through-hull for sensor is in engine compartment sole, between engine exhaust riser and genset. Inclinometer on forward instrument panel: Rieker model 2055 serial number C00420. Laptop: Old: Toshiba Satellite 305CDS. New: Dell Inspiron 1100, bought 3/2004. Service tag 23X7G41, express svc code 459-073-800-1. Power: typical 2A - 3A, using CD drive 6A+. Pins on connector, when looking at face: lower-left is +20V relative to top pin. Old (90W) adapter: put Tip-to-Tip on cable. New (70W) adapter: put Tip-to-+ on cable. AC adapter says 70W continuous. 800-915-3355. New (70W) adapter: Vanson SDR-70W. 11-14V in, 15-24V out, 10A fuse. If boot from "Drivers and Utilities" CD-ROM, boots Windows 98 (!), gives diagnostic program, then closing that goes to DOS prompt. If boot from "Setup" CD-ROM, can type "R" for "Recovery Console" and then remove CD-ROM: will appear to boot normally, but run disk check first. Keyboard dying 3/2006; bought new one 5/2006. WiFi PC card: 3Com 3CRPAG175, serial num L6BL3B998D066, PN 16-0940-000, EA 000D5498D066. 2nd WiFi PC card: Proxim Orinoco Gold Card model 8470-WD, serial num 04MT12004549, Mac Address 0020A651258C, PN 65626/A. USB floppy drive: LaCie Pocket USB FDD 706018 MYFLOPPY3 serial FDD000182449 8U10R3069044903/44BHL CD-Burner: HP Old scanner: Googlegear Ultima 2000, serial S18C0022001454 Driver: http://64.70.234.121/drivers/u2k_V292.exe http://www.artecusa.com/ New scanner: Canon N1240U, serial UYL122772 File-splitter program: http://www.pcworld.com/downloads/file_description/0,fid,6938,00.asp Camera: Pentax Optio W20, serial number 9311693, bought 12/2006. DC input: 4.5V ???A Battery: D-L18 710MAH, 3.7V (same as MPower D-L18) Charger: D-BC8, draws ???A at 110V Wish I had 12V charger: ??? Music-player: Archos Jukebox Studio 10, sn 021500521. Running Rockbox! 2.0 software. Jukebox ver 5.08 ============================================================= Interior -------- Berths: Aft cabin, port berth mattress: Forward edge = 37" Aft edge = 33" Port edge = 72" Starboard edge = 77" Thickness: 5-6 inches. Aft cabin, starboard berth mattress: Forward edge = 39" Aft edge = 39" Port edge = 75" Starboard edge = 72" Thickness: 5-6 inches. Rectangular mattresses would fit: Aft cabin, port berth mattress 33" x 73". Aft cabin, starboard berth mattress 40" x 74". (Standard twin mattress == 39" x 75", but most in stores are 74" long.) Main cabin, port settee: 26" x 63". Main cabin, main settee: 40" x 75" taking out rectangular cushions only; 60+" x 75" if take out all cushions. V-berth: could have one 27" x 74" mattress, other 27" x 42" plus triangular cushion ? Or maybe one 33" x 73" if put a board across part of the V-gap. Bought custom latex mattresses 12/2001 for the aft cabin berths. Material says "V4-1 latex" on it. Interior wood: Used Amazon's Golden Teak Oil MasterMix Marine Formula, from Marine Development & Research Corp, on interior teak 2/2002. Carpeting (outside dimensions, approx): V-berth: 57 x 50 Galley: 78 x 60 Main cabin: 110 x 59 Main cabin under table: 45 x 34 Hallway: 111 x 27 Aft cabin forward piece: 24 x 19 Aft cabin: 58 x 63 Aft head: 56 x 41 Need 16 feet of 12-foot-wide roll, which is 192 sqft or about 22 sqyd. Home Depot sells indoor/outdoor carpet 12' wide. Installed 3/2004: Perfection Gray LX, Bretlin/Tribune 137-Grey, $3.96/sqyd Maybe should have picked a slightly lighter color. Sheds black rubber dust from the backing. Insides of cupboards painted with Behr Premium Plus number 7050 Ultra Pure White interior satin enamel paint (acrylic latex; mildew resistant) from Home Depot. Chain locker doors: hinges replaced 2/2003 with Liberty 1235 from Home Depot; magnetic locks are Liberty 1280. ============================================================= Keys ---- Ignition: Cole Hersee CH506. Outboard: Fulton 108 (now discarded). Translucent locker lid in cockpit: Axxess+ 78. Fiberglass locker lids in cockpit: horseshoe 895. ???: Briggs & Stratton H601 B. ???: brass M1. ???: brass unmarked. Brass combination lock for companionway hatch: 2348. Master lock 8000210 for dinghy cable lock: 35-12-25. Old bike lock: black key with Kry-G on it. www.kryptonitelock.com New bike lock: blue key with K on it. N19 ? Six plastic-coated blue padlocks keyed alike, on hatches and dinghy: MasterLock model 312KA, key number 3126. Four brass padlocks keyed alike, on deck lockers: Fortress model 1820Q. ============================================================= Outboard Motor -------------- Old outboard was Mercury 20 HP, 2-cylinder, purchased in 1995, serial #0G090913 (which means it is a "1994 mid-year" or "1994 1/2" model). Replaced it 3/2008: very hard to start, under load would not run above fast idle, would not tilt, ate pull-cords, weighed so much that it kept cracking davit welds, lower unit had major repair 3 years earlier. Tohatsu 6 HP 4-stroke, model MFS6BSS, serial number 015493XG. Bought 3/3/2008 for $1557 at Gary's Marine, Benner Bay, St Thomas, 340-779-2717, http://www.tohatsu.com/dealers/garys.htm pgxmax at vitelcom.net Spark plugs: NGK DCPR6E, gap ???. Engine oil: API SF or better; 20W-50 best but 15W-40 okay. Gear oil: API GL-5, SAE 80 to 90. Can get for $7/gallon at Walmart ? Changed: ??? Anode: ??? Changed: ??? Grease nipples: ??? Propeller: - standard is 3-blade, mark 8, 7.7" diam x 8.0" pitch. - for heavier boats: 7.7" diam x 7.0" pitch or 7.9" diam x 6.0" pitch. - Propeller nut: ??? - New propeller: Gary's in Benner Bay: We have the propeller for your engine in stock, price $73. We do not have a repair manual for this motor. While we do not have a carbueretor rebuild kit, we have a new carbueretor, price $135. Carburetor: ??? Service manual: as of 5/2008, Clymer has no manual and no plans to publish one. ============================================================= Plumbing -------- Water pump under forward settee: One active and one spare. One with red switch: Jabsco 6850J; ripped diaphraghm. One with black switch: Jabsco 36950-1000; all parts look fine, but doesn't pump water. 3 GPM, 6 amps nominal, 9.9 amps max. 12/2003 bought Jabsco Par-Max 1, serial 03D23475. 35 PSI, model 42630-2900, 1.1 GPM, 1.9A. Fresh water filter under forward settee: To seat O-ring in fresh water filter under forward settee: tighten the screw, then un-tighten the clear body of the housing to get a good seal on the O-ring. O-ring is 1 7/8" x 1 11/16". Hand-pump at galley sink is fresh water and draws only from forward water tank (tan hose). Hole through counter is 2 1/8" diameter. Pump itself is 2" OD. No brand name on pump. Has ball-bearing type check-valve at bottom of it. Replaced 1/2002 with Fynspray WS-63 from West Marine; leaks like a sieve. Galley cold water filter: [Was AquaPure AP 217. Plastic wrench to remove it is part number 21-412-1.] Replaced 7/26/2002 with GE SmartWater GXWH01C serial number DD502097C from Home Depot; used filter FXWTC, but can use FXUSC, FXWSC or FXWPC. Use oil-filter wrench to remove/tighten. Run water for a minute or two after replacing (instructions say run water for 30 minutes !). New filter installed: 7/26/2002 FXWTC 5/16/2003 FXWTC 9/7/2003 FXWTC 1/21/2004 FXWTC 7/7/2004 FXWTC 2/8/2005 FXWTC 7/28/2005 FXWTC 7/12/2006 FXWTC 6/1/2007 FXUSC 2/24/2008 FXUSC ============================================================= Ports ----- Opening ports (7 of them): Fuller Brush Marine Division http://www.fullermarine.com/ 800-522-0499 (orders), 800-227-2961 4FM2047 or 4FM2027 7x15 cream. Complete assembly: $120. Window and gasket: $67. Gasket: $8. Frame: $61. Finishing ring 4FM2007-4: $14. Old ones are cream-colored; replace with white. The finishing rings come with no holes drilled in them; you have to drill holes to mount them. Every port on the boat has slightly different hole placements; save the old rings (or pieces of them) as you remove them ! Measurements: Inside: Overall: 9 3/4" x 17 3/4" Mounting bolt centers: 9" x 16 3/4" Outside: Overall: 9 3/4" x 17 1/2" Screw centers: 8 3/4" x 16 3/4" Visible/glass size: 7" x 15" The frames are ABS plastic, so don't use polysulfide caulk on them: it eats ABS plastic. Use a polyurethane/silicone blend caulk, such as BoatLife Life Seal. Bolts are #10-24, usually 1" or 1-1/4" long. Gaskets (tubing) are 5/16" diameter, 44" long. Can't find equivalent in hardware stores. Something like latex tubing. If the gaskets get leaky, rub some petroleum jelly on the sealing edge to improve the seal. Chains may be SeaFit / West Marine 264708. Rebedded opening port in aft head 1/2003 with BoatLife Life Seal; painted it with Nicro-Cote. Rebedded and replaced frame of opening port in galley 1/2003; bedded with BoatLife Life Seal; painted finishing ring with Nicro-Cote. Rebedded and replaced frame of opening port over port settee 1/2003; bedded with BoatLife Life Seal; painted with Nicro-Cote and then Krylon (KMart) glossy white spray paint. Rebedded opening port over port aft berth 8/2003; bedded with BoatLife Life Seal; painted with Krylon glossy white spray paint. Fixed ports (8 of them): 8-3/4" x 16-5/8" OD (on inside and outside of boat), 6-3/8" x 14-1/4" visible glass, part through fiberglass is 7-3/4" x 15-5/8". Rounded corners. Inside (finishing ring) has 3 screws on top, 2 on each side, 4 on bottom, with a joint in the bottom. Outside is flat, with a joint in each vertical side. Body/outside are same pieces. Top and bottom halves are held together with 2 screws on each vertical side. Glass says "Arm-R-Clad, Solid Safety, Hordis Bros. Cp, HB-MGI, AS-2, DOT 35". Don't know where to get replacements or parts. Maybe Bomar: http://www.pompanette.com/bomar 2000 / 3000 / 4000 extruded ? There are no holes or fastening into the fiberglass; the two halves of the port are just caulked into place and clamped together. So they could be replaced by any port that uses about a 7-3/4" x 15-5/8" opening. ============================================================= Propane Appliances ---------------------- Portable propane stove: Set on top of electric stove or in cockpit to use; get propane bottle from stern. Careful: no thermocouples to shut off gas if flame goes out. Washer that seals with top of 1-lb tank: approx OD 15/16", ID 9/16", width 3/16". Stern grill: Force 10 large, similar to West Marine 184921 / Force 83720. Burner tube: West Marine 594549 / Force 83907; $43. Replaced burner-tube 9/2002. Regulator: West Marine 515882 / Force 83911; $30 plus tax. $19 plus $7 shipping at http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/gasgrillparts/bbqparts/repair/plumbing/body_plumbing.html Regulator stopped working 9/2004, probably because it was loose, flipped upside down and water pooled in it. Even older regulator says "Model 400 LP gas regulator 2 Marshall Gas Controls Inc" on it. Installed it 10/2004. Outlet is approx 5/16" diameter (maybe 3/8" NPT ?). Grilling chicken causes a lot of grease accumulation on the bottom of the housing, where it catches fire or drips out. Hose maker: Oasis Marine, 1248 Overseas Marathon, 305-481-0958, oblue at msn.com, between Porky's and Seven Mile Grill on Gulf side. Hose seems to accumulate liquid inside if there are lots of loops. Try to keep it one level run. ============================================================= Propeller and Shaft ------------------- Propeller clearance: - from blade tips to hull above: 7" - from end of cutless bearing to start of prop hub: 4" - from end of shaft to rudder skeg: 43" Shaft: 63" long, 1-1/4" diameter, bought 9/84. Rotates counter-clockwise (as seen from behind boat). 5/2006: showed nearly-unacceptable wear on area that matches aft end of cutless bearing. Main propeller: Bronze 20 x 20 3-blade LH. Michigan Federal. Says "20LH20, 1 73, Grand Rapids Mich" on side of the hub, "92721" on the aft end of the hub. Pitch measured 1/2003: slightly off, areas of 20 and 21 pitch in various places, but not bad enough to warrant reconditioning ($118). New similar propeller would cost $553. Hub is 3-3/4" long, 1-1/4" hole forward, 1" hole aft. Spare (original) propeller: 23 x 14 3-blade bronze LH. Reconditioned 3/96. Ellis / Columbia "Elephant ears" type. Says "2314" on forward end, "23705" on hub. Weighs 20-25 pounds. Hole diameter is 1-3/16" at forward end, 1" at aft end. Forward depression is 1-11/16" diameter. Aft depression is 1-3/8" diameter. Hub is 4-1/8" long, about 3" diameter. Evaluated 1/2003: don't spend any money on it, it's obsolete and a spare (and don't use it at top speed). Propeller nuts: Thin nut goes on first; thick (locking) nut goes on last (according to Prop-Tec, and they say most boatyards get it backwards too). Thick nut: 7/8" thick, looks like 7/8" diameter threading. Old spare nut says "8B" on it. Stainless steel. Thin nut: 7/16" thick. New nuts 1/2003; thick one has "TK 8" on it. Key in main propeller is 5/16" x 5/16" x 3-3/16" long. Replaced 1/2003; propeller was loose. Key in spare propeller is 1/2" tall x 2-3/8" long; (but slot for it in propeller is 3-1/4" long). Keyway is 3/8" wide at base, 1/4" wide next to shaft. Keyway in the shaft is 2-3/4" long, plus open and tapered spaces at the ends. Cotter pin in shaft: 5/32" x 1-1/2" stainless steel. Shaft zinc: I don't think there is electrical conductivity between shaft and transmission, so this is just protecting the shaft and prop, not the through-hulls. Replaced: 4/2001 8/14/2001 1/29/2003 (had about 20% left) missing 4/22/2003, must have dropped off 5/10/2003 diminished and loose 9/18/2003 3/10/2004 (about 30% left; done by Diver Dave) 5/2006 in boatyard Stern tube: has four setscrew holes outside the hull, but one appears to be stripped. Tube is 12" long x 2-3/8" OD x 2" ID. Cutless bearing: Spare on board was Morse EO1700, 998 COD, 1-1/4" ID x 2" OD x 5" long. But that's WRONG; the one that came out 5/2006 was Morse 992 Croaker, 1-1/4" ID x 2-1/8" (I think) OD x 5" long. Replaced: 1/1996 probably should have replaced haulout 1/2003 5/2006 put in Duramax 1 14-218 98/86 1-1/4" ID x 2-1/8" OD x 5" Transmission-to-shaft coupling: To separate, remove aft nuts, not forward nuts. Square-headed setscrews set into dimples in shaft; setscrews 1-1/2" long (1-1/8" without head), 5/16" diameter, head is 3/8". There is a key holding aft part of coupler onto shaft. Confused about this; it looks like normal Perkins coupler to me, but have paperwork for a DriveSaver. Mechanic in boatyard says it indeed is a DriveSaver. DriveSaver bought 5/97 from Transmission Marine, Ft Lauderdale, 954-467-1540. Probably model 504, could be 504A or 504AC. If it shears off, just discard the rubber and bolt it back together and keep going ? http://www.globerubberworks.com/ Four 7/16" bolts. Aft half of coupler is 5-inch diameter. Collar on shaft near stuffing box, to prevent shaft leaving boat (or maybe to prevent prop hitting rudder skeg) in case coupling separates. Hose clamps on stuffing box: replaced 11/2001 with AWAB 316083 size 44 all 316 SS clamps (West Marine 155749). Probably could have used size 40; old ones were mix of size 40 and 44. Stuffing box packing: Flax packing on board is 1/4" diameter (S&J FLX003 580031; Hopcar 167075). Stuffing box threads seem to have 1 3/4" OD, shaft is 1 1/4", so 1/4" flax should be right. Should put 3 rings in. Replaced packing: 1/2002 1/4" had to be hammered flatter to fit; maybe 3/16" would be better. 4/2003 1/4"; minor scoring + polish on shaft. 7/2006 1/4" Gore-Tex GFO. Possible replacement for stuffing box: lip seal from rota-seal.com : P/N RS-0032-461, $11.30 each. $25 min order. Shaft rotation seats the seal against the flat surface of the hull or stern tube. ============================================================= Refrigerator ------------ Nova Kool model R45704 PS 110, serial num 209902, mfg 1/2000, bought 4/2000. R134a refrigerant (ozone-friendly), charge 2.9 oz (but manual says 1.75 oz). 4.3 cu. ft. Weight 67 lbs. Constant-cycling (no holding plate). Air-cooled. 110 VAC (60 Hz) and 12 VDC powered. Hinged right (door opens on right side). Danfoss BD35F 101Z compressor. Power-consumption specs: Ambient temp F Watt-Hrs/Hour == 12V AH/day --------------------------------------------------- 60 7 14 80 22 44 100 43 86 http://www.novakool.com/products/r45704.htm (web page is gone 5/2008) Refrigerator sometimes fails to run on DC power, maybe after running on AC with DC switch off. Leave DC switch on even when AC power is present. [Maybe I'm wrong; may be just a stuck thermostat ???] Dealer: http://www.cruisair-southeast.com/ TKALLEY at AOL.COM New thermostat would cost $76 (!) from http://www.worldwideent.net/ Old thermostat: 25T65 EN 60730-2-1 Danfoss 015-0282 is $24 at http://www.rparts.com/Catalog/Major_Components/controls.asp Replaced thermostat 3/2007 with Danfoss 077B7001 / RParts 015-0282. Thermostat control: full clockwise is coldest. Fan must not exceed 1 amp at 12 volts. Added fan 12/30/2001: Radio Shack 273-243B, 3" diameter, 26 CFM, 160 mA max, 35 dBA max. Was dead 2/2004 when I went to add a second fan; replaced dead fan. Died again early 2008. Added LED 12/30/2001: Radio Shack 276-271A, green, 15 mA, 24 mcd. Added timer 5/2008: Altronix 6030 with bypass switch. Wired to NC terminal so red LED is lit when relay is energized and timer is forcing refrigerator off. $11 from http://www.allkindscable.com/al60timmod1.html ============================================================= Rigging ------- Halyards: Should use 7x19 wire: flexible. All halyards are 3/16" diameter SS wire. 3/16" 7x19 SS 316 as of 10/2001. Mizzen halyard has 1" x 1 1/2" thimble on it. Other halyards have 7/8" x 1 3/4" thimbles on them. Halyard thimbles now (Sailing Services THD08) "6" SS 304 as of 10/2001. Shrouds: Main lower shrouds are 1/4" 1x19. Main intermediate shrouds are 3/16" 1x19. Main top shrouds are 1/4" 1x19. Mizzen shrouds are 3/16" 1x19. [Someone told me the "main intermediate shrouds" (halfway between spreaders and top of mast) were for boats with a cutter or staysail rig. This boat had a club-footed jib; maybe that was a factor.] Should be 1x19 wire. Stays: Forestay is 1/4" 1x19. Main backstays are 1/4" 1x19. Mizzen backstay is 3/16" 1x19. Triatic is 3/16" ???. Should be 1x19 wire. Standing rigging totals (overestimates): 3/16" 1x19: main int shrouds 2 x 45' mizzen shrouds 6 x 30' mizzen backstay 30' triatic 30' total = 330' 1/4" 1x19: main lower shrouds 4 x 40' main top shrouds 2 x 45' forestay 55' main backstays 2 x 60' total = 425' Sail luff wires: Old (shredded 2005) jib looks like 1/4" 1x19. Main looks like 1/4" 1x19. Mizzen looks like 3/16" 1x19. Should be 1x19 wire. Topping lifts: Main was 1/8" diam; replaced with 5/32" 1x19 SS 316 4/2002. About 39' 4" long. Mizzen is 1/8" 7x19. Should be 1x19 wire. Dinghy hoisting: Aft is 5/32"; added 5/32" 4/2002. Forward is 1/8"; added 5/32" 4/2002. Gooseneck downhaul: Was 3/16" diameter SS wire with 7/8" x 1 3/4" thimbles. When replaced 9/2001, used 3/16" diameter 7x19 SS 316 wire, Suncor Stainless H0115-0008 5/16" SS 316 shackle (from Home Depot) at bottom. Should be 1x19 wire. Cotter pins are 1/8" diameter, 1" long. But new 3/32" x 1" SS cotter pins (Seafit 258004) are 1 1/4" long ! Guess they measure straight part only. Tensions (hundreds of pounds; "c1101" == "cold 11/2001"): want c1101 h1101 Forestay: 9 16 Jib haly: 4 3 Main backstays: Stbd: 6 6 Port: 6 4 Starboard main shrouds F L: 6 low I: 5 3 T: 10 10 A L: 6 5 Port main shrouds F L: 6 5 I: 5 3 T: 10 11 A L: 6 4 Starboard mizzen shrouds F L: 5 low T: 7 low A L: 5 3 Port mizzen shrouds F L: 5 3 T: 7 2 A L: 5 low Mizz BS: 6 slack Triatic: 2 slack Halyards Main: 4 low Mizz: 3 low Goose D: 2 slack Jib head fitting: clevis pin is S&J CL042 (370511) stainless. 3/8" x 1-5/8" (could be shorter). Gooseneck bolt: from http://www.mcmaster.com/ Load-Rated Shoulder Pattern Eyebolts Type 316 Stainless Steel Partially Threaded Thread Size 1/2"-13 2200# Wll Part Number 3032T45 $23 Gooseneck nut: from http://www.mcmaster.com/ Load-Rated Eye Nuts Eye Shape Oval Type 316 Stainless Steel Thread Size 1/2"-13 2240 lbs WLL Part Number 3061T18 $16 Wire halyard reel winches: Lewmar ???. Have diagram of winches: file "Lewmar #1 reel winch.jpg" Disassembling winch for cleaning is easy: remove circlip in middle of reel, and slide reel and brake straight off, leaving shaft and bearings attached to mast. Clean brake with paint thinner; do not oil or grease it. Clean pawls, and oil them. Clean bearings by soaking with penetrating oil, dry them, then apply grease. Hardest part is inserting the wire through the reel when re-assembling. From Tom Carse, Service and Warranty Manager, Lewmar: Those winches were actually custom. They were not a mass-produced item at that time. Because of this, and the fact that Lewmar has had many owners, we do not have any manuals for them. There will be no parts available either except for possibly the pawls and springs. The only way to know if they fit is to purchase some and try them out. The mainmast winch for the spare halyard has its brake on upside down; the rods are on top, where they interfere with the run of the halyard; they should be on the bottom. But flipping base would require drilling five new holes in the mast. Winches cleaned and lubricated: 8/2005 jib needs new pawl-spring Rope running rigging (all double-braid except anchor rodes): Jib sheets: 5/8" by 50 feet Jib furling line: 3/8" Main outhaul: 1/2" (65 feet long if run 4x along boom; 50 feet long if run 3x along boom) Main furling line: 3/8" x 65 feet. Main topping lift adjuster: 3/8" Main sheet: 1/2" x 45 feet Main sheet traveler: 1/4" x 25 feet Mizzen outhaul: 5/16" Mizzen furling line: 1/4" Mizzen topping lift adjuster: 5/16" Mizzen sheet: 3/8" Dinghy davit lines: 3/8" Port anchor rode: 7/8" Starboard anchor rode: 5/8" or 3/4" Docklines: 5/8" and 3/4" Masthead flag halyards: 1/8" Spreader flag halyards: 1/4" Dinghy painter: ??? Dinghy dockline: ??? Chainplates: Hull-mounted single chainplates: Chainplate is 15" long, 1 1/2" wide, 3/16" thick, 1/2" pin hole, four 3/8" square bolt holes 1 1/4" center-to-center. Had new one fabricated for main port aft lower shroud 11/2001 by Bobcat Metal Products. New chainplate made of 316L SS. Bolts are 3/8" x 1 1/2" hex cap bolts, coarse thread. Old bolts have two hash marks on head. West Marine 121683 (18-8 SS). Turnbuckle is 1/2", chrome-plated bronze. Pin range is about 10" to about 15". Whole equivalent is West Marine 479725 (chrome) or West Marine 479733 (bronze) / Hayn 12TFBJ. $55. Body is West Marine 166639 / Alexander Roberts B16-Chrome ? $33. [Forestay has same type of turnbuckle.] Hull-mounted double chainplates: Big chainplate is 16" long, 1 1/2" wide, 1/4" thick, 1/2" pin hole, five 3/8" bolt holes with four 1 1/4" center-to-center. Small chainplate is about 9" long, 1 1/2" wide, 1/8" thick, 3/8" pin hole, one 3/8" bolt hole. On starboard, bolts are (top to bottom): one 1 1/4" long, three 2" long, one 1 1/2" long. All are 3/8" hex cap bolts, coarse thread. Old bolts have two hash marks on head. On port, bolts are (top to bottom): four 1 1/2" long, one 3/4" long. All are 3/8" hex cap bolts, coarse thread. Old bolts have two hash marks on head. Big turnbuckle is same as that for hull-mounted single chainplate, above. Small turnbuckle is 3/8", chrome-plated bronze. Pin range is about 9" to about 12". Whole equivalent is West Marine 415992 (chrome) or West Marine 416008 (bronze) / Hayn 38TFBJ. $34. Masts: Main height: Deck to masthead: 42' 6". Water to deck: 5' 9" with 1/2 full tanks. Port VHF antenna sticks 4' above top. Starboard VHF antenna sticks about 15" above top. Wind indicator sticks about 9" above top. Anchor light sticks about 6" above top. Total: about 53 feet above water. In 5/2003, I took down the port antenna (was broken anyway) and turned over the starboard antenna, giving a new total: about 50 feet above water (really 49, but assume 50). Mizzen height from deck to top of masthead hardware: 28' 6". Has an antenna sticking about 2' above top. Wiring: Main: Two sets of wiring: 3 grey wires going up center of mast, through foam. The rest go up a PVC pipe on forward side of the mast. - 3 grey wires with B W wires in each: ??? - black 16/4 trailer cord with R G W B wires: ??? - white antenna wire RG58A/U Times Wire + Cable 07145: ??? - black antenna RG-58/U Belden 6240: ??? - antenna connectors Amphenol 83 PL-259 UG-175/U. - green: ??? Mizzen: ??? Booms: Main: Boom-top track width 7/8" Mainsail tack track width 1-3/16" Mizzen: Tube len 125" Overall len 126 3/4" Tube diam 3.5" Boom-top track width 7/8" Misc: Forestay turnbuckle is 1/2". Triatic stay turnbuckle (at mizzen masthead) is 3/8", with Sta-Lok head at one end and normal fork at other end. Sta-Lok fittings: sold by Sailnet and BoatU.S. and PYacht.com, but NOT by West Marine (they will special-order). Sta-Lok reseller: Sailing Services, Miami 800-458-1074 http://www.sailingservices.com/index.htm Wedges: 3/16" 1x19 sta-lok 138-05 $3 1/4" 1x19 138-06 $3 3/16" 7x 139-05 $6 1/4" 7x 139-06 $6 Formers: 3/16" 115-05 $2 9/32" 115-07 $2 Eye Terminals: 3/16" 133-05 $28 1/4" 133-06-3/8 $37 All standing rigging has Sta-Lok eye-fittings (no fork-fittings). Running rigging does NOT use Sta-Lok's; all swaged. Sheet winches: Main sheet winch is Lewmar 46 two-speed. Jib sheet winches are Lewmar 25 two-speed. Lewmar Winch Schematics: Go to http://www.pyacht.com/ click on Manufacturer Index, click on Lewmar, click on Winches, click on Winch Schematics Have diagrams of winches: files "LewmarWinch_24.gif" and "LewmarWinch_46st.gif" Lewmar 19700200 Two Speed Winch Kit Lewmar 19700501 Standard Small Pawls & Springs Lewmar winch parts: Yacht Service and Resources in Newport RI 401-849-8470 Servicing old Lewmar standard 2-spd 40: Have to remove it from coaming and disassemble from the bottom. (They've changed the design since then to allow service without removal from the deck.) From rob/rope,inc. ... you will see a snap ring or spirolox ring on the bottom of the main spindle, remove that and the main spindle will pull out allowing you to remove the plastic bit and the bearings. The next question you will ask is how do you remove the small spindles holding the offset gears, well, they are held in with knurled spindles. Beat the crap out of the spindles very gently from the bottom up and you will be able to service those gears ... Poles: Club-footed jib pole: about 11 feet long. Pole and deck fitting similar to Forespar JB-300 ($700-$800). (Removed attachment from deck.) Reaching strut / jib whisker pole: three 6-foot sections, with outside diameters 1 3/4", 1 7/8", 2". No twist-locks. Fitting on 2" end has lock; fitting on 1 3/4" end doesn't. 1 3/4" diameter is an obsolete size; fittings no longer available in that size. Downwind sail twin poles: each approx 15 feet long ??? Tracks: Jib toerail tracks are 1 1/4" width. Mainmast pole track is 1 1/4" width. Mainmast sail track is 7/8" width. Mizzenmast sail track is 7/8" width. Sails: - Old (shredded 2005) genoa: wire-in-luff roller-furled; 120%. Official numbers: Max luff (P; head to tack): ??? J (tack to mast): ??? L/P (Luff Perpendicular; clew to nearest point of luff): ??? I think a new genoa should have the cloth-tack 12" higher (it rubs on the bow pulpit), and the leech about 3 feet longer (but this might make it impossible to roll up). I forget: is the "tack" the wire end or where the cloth starts ? The luff wire length is fine; the cloth-corner at the tack needs to be higher. Measured 6/2005 (after it got shredded): Luff: 42'8" Leech: 39'7" Foot: 21'6" wire in the luff is 1/4" 1x19 J (tack to mast): 14'6" Want: Luff: 41'6" Leech: 42' Foot: 19' Got quotes for a new genoa 12/2005: About $2100 from neilprydesails.com, with UV cover and foam luff, plus $300 for special Schaefer-specific thimble (don't know what they're talking about here). About $2000 from leesails.com - New (bought used from Minney's 2006) genoa: wire-in-luff roller-furled; 110%. Luff: 40'4" Leech: 38'9" Foot: 18'10" 6.5 oz Dacron Blue RF Cover Pennant is 18" long, 1/4" 1x19. - Main: wire-in-luff roller-furled. Official numbers: Luff (P; head to tack): ??? Leech (head to clew): ??? Foot (E; clew to tack): ??? Measured 6/2005: Luff: guess 32' Leech: guess 34' Foot: 14'6" (measured along boom) wire in the luff is 1/4" 1x19 Measured 12/2007: Luff: 35'9" (measured along sail lying on deck) Foot: 14'6" (measured along boom) New mainsail from Lee Sails 3/2009: Luff: 35' Foot: 14' (probably should have done 14'6") 8.6 oz Dacron (probably should have done 9+) 19 KG including bag and shipping wrapper. Cost: $1200. - Mizzen: wire-in-luff roller-furled. Official numbers: Luff (P; head to tack): ??? Leech (head to clew): ??? Foot (E; clew to tack): ??? Wire in the luff is 3/16" 1x19 - Storm jib. Has hanks. - Twin down-wind headsails. No hanks. - Club-footed jib: Three 1-foot battens in the leech; Labeled "3008 Bellamy G44 8 oz club jib 41.5 x 12.5" Numbers from ???: deck-to-masthead H = 45.13, mainsail luff P = 37.33, mainsail foot E = 15.75, 120% jib foot J = 15.21, working jib luff = 43'7", working jib foot LP = 19.0 ???, working jib leech = 40.0, mizzensail luff PY = 27.58 or Pmiz = 23.5 ???, mizzensail foot EY = 9.0 or Bmiz = 10.0 All sails made by Mack-Shaw Sailmakers Inc. Successor company: Mack Sails http://macksails.com/ 800-428-1384 From Brad Mack at Mack Sails: Johnny Northup was a friend of mine going back to the early sixties. We made tons of Gulfstar sails in those days, lots of them for friends, so I'm not exactly sure [what we made for Magnolia]. I think he had rigged the mainsail for roller furling. I know we had worked out a double headsail downwind rig with poles --- but all of it is a bit fuzzy. We no longer have those files ... From Brad Mack at Mack Sails 4/2002: Price for 7.77 oz Marblehead premium dacron: 100% Jib with wire luff for roller furling and Sunbrella sun cover, $1933. Mainsail, same wt and wire/cover, $1354. Mizzen, same way, $899. We would need to know exact length of wires and foot lengths of main and mizzen. Also, I'm just guessing at 100% for jib, so need to know what size your old one is or what you want. We are running a solid 4 weeks, we pay UPS to you. Hand-repaired with Dacron #12 thread. Rigger Gary Shotwell at Marathon Boatyard: cell 305-766-7196. Marathon Boatyard main number: 305-743-6341. Metal fabricators in Marathon: Bobcat Metal Products: 1919 Overseas Hwy Marathon (just west of West Marine), 305-743-8715. Behind U-Haul, behind Buck's woodworking, look for metal welding table on side of street. Does only stainless steel and aluminum. Hot Arc, 935 107th st Marathon, 305-743-6758, Kevin Finney. Another one next to Hot Arc and the salvage yard. Keys Welding, just east of Turnkey Marine (gulf side), west of Seven Mile Grill. Roller-furling: - Old Schaefer roller-furling. It's roller-furling (sail goes all the way in or out), not roller-reefing. According to Nigel Calder's book, uses carbon-steel bearings that are permanently sealed in a greased state; no greasing or washing of bearings is needed. The three roller drums are different sizes. Picked up a free spare that matches main's drum. - from another Gulfstar 44 owner: The jib was quite stiff when I furled it. When I took the furler down and took the jib off the bottom one I could feel it was not rotating smoothly, feels kind of like there was little pebbles in it. This is caused by either bad bearings, lack of grease, no bearings left, or something has contaminated the grease. The pin that comes out of the bottom of the bottom swivel connects to a metal plate on the bow. On mine that pin goes through a metal collar that has a bushing in it and also a needle bearing. There is a machine screw screwed into the drum that actually screws through the swivel and into the collar. This is for lubricating the swivel and needle bearing. If you use a grease gun it will force grease into the needle bearings and into the actual bearing assembly that the pin rides on. But anyway if you were to disassemble the swivel the grease hole is threaded and it goes right into the back of the needle bearings. - from yet another Gulfstar owner: The furling system is a Schaeffer system. The lower portion (drum) has the exact same principle as the upper bearing in that it is a flat (horizontal) bearing. Unless there is water damage, normally lubrication is all that is needed. Remove lower plate in drum. If necessary you may remove the bearing assembly (which you will notice is the exact same piece as the upper assembly except that it does not have the holding wires to the forestay) for this purpose. You will find the pin soldered to a flat plate which will rest in the bearing assembly. Years back, I obtained the bearing which was an Aetna bearing G-3 or G-8. Number is covered by what I think is the part number written with magic marker(53-007). - Maintenance: - remove drum from sail and deck and take inside. - use Allen wrench to remove setscrew under drum. - carefully separate top and bottom halves; bearings are loose. - clean with WD-40 and then apply grease. - re-assemble. I wasn't able to separate the halves. Removed Allen setscrew in collar and bolt in side of drum, and squirted grease into both holes. ============================================================= Rudder ------ Shaft SS 1 3/4" diameter. Packing nuts are 3 1/8" OD, threading onto a 2 3/4" OD threaded pipe. Hole through top of shaft is 1/2" diameter. Rudder stuffing box flax packing: Old stuff was one continuous length of 3/8". 1/2" (SeaFit FlaxPack 136061) is tight fit, but I think it's supposed to be a tight fit. According to Lewis catalog, 1/2" is the right size. Try hammering it a little on one side to make it slightly thinner before putting it in. Replaced: 12/2001 1/2" two rings 11/2004 1/2" one ring ============================================================= Steering -------- Manually-powered hydraulic. Hynautic brand. 5 turns lock-to-lock, which means 10" cylinder. Turning past lock position will force any air out through a relief valve (good). Relief valve is under port berth in aft cabin. Says "950" and "322772" on it. Use 1/2-inch wrench to open valves on top. Replacement is Teleflex MSV relief valve MSV-21. Bleeding in full-starboard direction stopped working after I disconnected the steering ram (to test emergency tiller) and then reconnected it. Maybe ram or relief valve bad ? From Teleflex: We do not fix and/or clean these valves as they need to be tested for proper everything after that sort of work has been done. Please replace the valve completely. Auto-pilot is inserted into system as just another steering station. But has a lock-out valve (on aft wall of engine compartment) to prevent steering helm pumps from forcing pressure back into auto-pilot pump. Gauge on top of reservoir in engine compartment normally reads 16 PSI. Reservoir normally 1/2 to 2/3 full, manual says about 2 quarts at 20 PSI. 10 micron sintered bronze filter on fluid exit from reservoir. Hydraulic fluid: Automatic Transmission Type "A", or MIL-0-5606 Aircraft Hydraulic Fluid. Hynautic Inc, 1579 BARBER RD SARASOTA FL 34240-9391 941-379-0500 Teleflex owns Seastar (http://www.seastarsteering.com/) owns Hynautic info@teleflex.bc.ca MARINE CONTROL SYSTEMS INC. SALES, SERVICE, PARTS AND INSTALLATIONS FOR HYNAUTIC GARY SORENSEN (OWNER) 561-790-3977 800-814-7070 16142 86th Street North, Loxahatchee Florida 33470 marinecontrol@hotmail.com Florida Rigging and Hydraulics: 772-863-7444 Hynautic distributor: Jerry's Marine 100 SW 16 St., Ft. Lauderdale, Florida, 33315, USA 800-432-2231 Have documents: Owners Manual. ============================================================= Stove ----- Princess 33, serial number 25829. AC electric. With oven. Interlock prevents running burners while top cover is down. Switch on stove-front prevents running burners and oven at same time; wiring is not heavy enough. Doesn't seem to prevent ??? Oven controls read 50+ degrees lower than actual temperature. Control Actual ------- ------ 275 350 350 450+ Front two burners seem hotter than back burner. If burner/oven lights are very slow to come on when knobs are turned, probably means switches have gunk in them; douse switches with electrical contact cleaner. Have documents: manual including diagrams and parts list. Heard that AC stoves were common on big boats back in the 70's; they felt it was safer than propane inside the boat, and it gave a more homelike feeling to the little lady. ============================================================= Through-Hulls and Valves ------------------------ Forward: Fwd head sink disch 3/4" strait AWL Fwd head intake 3/4" 90 deg BWL Fwd head disch 1 1/4" 90 deg BWL Galley: Galley sink drain 3/4" strait AWL Fwd head shower drain 1/2" strait AWL Aft: Aft head intake 3/4" 90 deg BWL Aft head sink drain 3/4" 60 deg AWL also is AC bilge pump disch and aft shower disch Aft head disch 1 1/4" 90 deg BWL Engine Compartment: Engine intake 3/4" 90 deg BWL Top AC intake 3/4" 90 deg BWL Bottom AC intake 3/4" 90 deg BWL Genset intake 3/4" 90 deg BWL Fwd cockpit drains 1 1/4" strait AWL AC discharge fwd 1/2" strait AWL AC discharge aft 1/2" strait AWL Genset exhaust 1 1/4" strait AWL 1st bilge pump disch 1/2" strait AWL 2nd bilge pump disch 3/4" strait AWL Aft cockpit drains 1 1/4" strait AWL Plus: Various vents high above waterline. Knotmeter (port) and depthsounder (center) holes in engine compartment. Stuffing boxes for propeller shaft and rudder shaft. Engine exhaust hose. All through-hull gate-valves except aft head discharge replaced 8/2001 with bronze ball-valves. Aft head discharge valve replaced 1/2003. ============================================================= Toilets ------- Groco type K manual. www.groco.net Rebuild kit $88 at West Marine (says $110 in their catalog). But you can buy individual parts from the Lewis Marine catalog. In Marathon, Specialty Hardware will order. Holding tank is 13 gallons. Todd Enterprises, says "85-1626" on top. Vent is 1/2" ID hose, inlet (top) is 1-1/2" or 1-5/8" ID hose, outlet (bottom) same as inlet. Aft head Y-valve: long part of handle up means flushes overboard, down means goes to holding tank. Only way to empty holding tank is to pump it out through deck fitting; no macerator. Forward head doesn't go to holding tank; tape closed with tape saying "broken; do not use" if in restricted waters. Both heads have discharge anti-siphon loops that vent inside the boat. I suspect both vents are clogged; no anti-siphoning working. Forward head base says "01 89" on it. Handle says "HT 3560 D". Aft head has a piston with no rings. Forward head has an Allen-head setscrew (use 3/32" wrench) instead of a bolt holding the foot-pedal cam onto the shaft. Also, very hard to reach aft-starboard bolt holding bowl on; swivel the bowl and remove that bolt last and reinstall it first. After reinstalling, probably will have to prime it with a bucket of seawater. Taking apart the toilet: - pump soapy water through for a while, let it stand for a while, pump more. - close intake through-hull, pump water as much as possible, close outlet through-hull. - get rid of leftover water by sponging out. - remove 4 bolts holding bowl onto base. - remove bowl and bowl gasket. - pump and sponge more water out of base. - pry the round "flap plate" off the top of the base (remember the position, which is screw-hole is on right-hand side). - remove two bolts holding it to the floor, loosen the other two, and slide it free. - remove spring on foot-pedal, turn pedal so regular bolt-head appears, loosen bolt, and slide pedal and shaft out. Should come out very easily; if it doesn't, the bolt hasn't been loosened enough. Remove cam. - push piston down, pushing flush handle, and see 15/32" hex-head bolt head appear. Loosen it three turns, then slide shaft and flush handle free. - seal/bushing on flush handle shaft is 5/8" ID, 1" OD, 1/2" long, rubber. But it's tapered inside. If the old one doesn't look severly tapered, it's worn out and needs to be replaced (part WS-2422). Install with narrowest part nearest pump body. - seal/bushing on foot pedal shaft is 1/2" ID, 13/16" OD, 1/2" long, rubber. But it's tapered inside. Reassembling: - thread a long bolt into the hole on top of the piston, and use it as a handle. One of the four bolts that hold the bowl onto the top of the pump will work. - remove bolt from shaft-clasp at bottom of piston, put key into shaft-clasp and cement it in with grease, insert piston into base and snake shaft-clasp around until visible, then thread another long bolt into the clasp-hole and use it as a handle to wiggle clasp around until handle-shaft seats into it. Remove temporary bolt and install shaft-clasp tightening bolt. - don't install an O-ring under the flapper valve; the valve should be flush with the top of the base. Aft head: - rebuilt 3/2004: replaced both shaft seals. Joker valve, flapper valve and inlet gasket looked good. Forward head: - painted and lubricated 4/2004, but didn't remove shafts. Aft mounting bolt holes are enlarged, so bolts are loose. Flapper valve rubber starting to curve. Spring that holds top flapper-valve upwards frequently breaks; hard to find a replacement. ============================================================= Tools ----- Fluke 11 multimeter, serial number 78040260. Dremel PA6-GF33. Multipro model 395 type 5, 5K - 30K RPM, 1.15A. Porter and Cable random orbital sander. Power drill: Black & Decker 4.5A 0-1350 RPM, serial number 20011449. Jigsaw: Skil 4280 3.5A variable speed. 5/8" stroke, 800-3250 RPM. Serial number R188 or PA6-GF33 ? Mag-Lite flashlight, serial number D37822173. Bulb: Phillips KPR 113 378 4.8V 0.75A HK or Rayovac Krypton 3D size, K3. Black & Decker CarVac, cat no 9509 type 3, 12 V. Filters: have to go to DEWALT Factory Service center. ============================================================= Transmission ------------ Borg-Warner 72C (or 72CR ?) hydraulic, 2.1 to 1 reduction, serial number 12525, model AS13-72C. http://www.velvetdrive.com/7172.html Transmission oil intercooler: Marine Coolers 0241, Perkins NA004139, Sen-Dure 2356-1-5 (copper tubes), Sen-Dure 2356-1-7 (90/10 coppernickel tubes). Transmission contains 2.7 quarts of fluid, plus what's in the oil cooler and the hoses to it. Change fluid about every 1000 engine hours. Use Dexron. Service manual says also can use Type F or C-3 oil (can use SAE 30 in emergency). Low-to-full == about 8 ounces. Run engine for 5-10 minutes before changing fluid. Pump old fluid out of dipstick hole. Add new fluid to "low" mark, run engine for 2 minutes, add fluid to above "full" mark. Reduction gear is not sealed off from the main case; they share the same fluid. Fluid changes: engine hour qts out/in 1/23/2003 2547.6 3.0 / 3.1 1/23/2004 3337 3.0 / 3.0 Bought shop manual ($45) from Foley 800-233-6539. Freewheeling while sailing: Consensus of experts I consulted seems to be that transmission can be in neutral (letting propeller free-wheel) while sailing. Putting it in reverse may not even lock propeller. Page 70 of Perkins engine handbook says "it is permissible to trail for 8 hours providing 715 RPM shaft speed is not exceeded". And it says install shaft-lock if there is going to be "prolonged or continuous freewheeling" because oil is not being circulated. ============================================================= Water Heater ------------ Raritan, serial number HF331074. Disconnected from engine coolant loop; now AC-powered only. If reconnect to coolant loop, add cold-water mixer to output to keep output from being too hot. 2nd owner says it was disconnected whole time he owned the boat (1995-2001). Someone else suggested it might be disconnected because of a leak. If water heater is off (water is cold), then turned on and let run for 20 minutes, switch and fuse on electrical panel get very hot ! 15 amps through it for 20 minutes ? ============================================================= Water Tanks ----------- 2 fiberglass tanks: 90 gal front, 140 gal rear ? Original specs say 100 and 130. Plastic valves in cabinet to left of refrig select which tank water is drawn from. Open only one at a time (opening both doesn't hurt anything). Probably an air leak in hoses to forward tank: pump loses prime when set to use forward tank. Sight tubes for seeing water levels in tanks are under cabin sole just to port of mast compression post. Port-aft sight tube "hovers" at 60% for a while during filling; maybe rear tank is not rectangular (probably fit to contour of hull) ? Water levels in sight tubes: Forward tank: ??? = 12.5 inches ??? + 12 = 16 inches ??? + 28 = 20 inches Aft tank: 15 gallons = 14 inches from keel 30 gallons = about 18 inches 45 gallons = 22-23 inches 60 gallons = 25 inches 75 gallons = 28 inches (spills over bridge) Filler caps are on starboard deck; corresponding vents are on hull side near filler caps; forward filler matches port-aft sight tube (rear tank). Leave white cap on crossover between water tank sight tubes loose.