Cruising the Virgin Islands.              Please send any comments to me.

This page updated: February 2009
      




Spanish Virgin Islands section
US Virgin Islands section
British Virgin Islands section

Note: I don't repeat information you can find on charts or in guidebooks. And I do focus on things that fit my cruising style: I anchor out, use libraries for internet, don't go to restaurants and bars.




Spanish Virgin Islands (between PR and USVI's: Vieques, Culebra, La Cordillera)

Guidebook: "A Cruising Guide to Puerto Rico Including the Spanish Virgin Islands" by Stephen Pavlidis (2003; 50 full-color charts).
Also: "A Cruising and Watersports Guide to the Spanish Virgin Islands" by Bruce Van Sant.

Charts: Maptech's Region 10 chartkit.

Islands are part of Puerto Rico; entering/exiting PR covers the islands, and vice-versa.

According to "Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands" by Nancy and Simon Scott, there is a special relationship between PR and USVI's: from PR to USVI, don't have to clear out of PR or in to USVI. From USVI to PR, don't have to clear out of USVI but do have to clear in to PR (because USVI is a duty-free area). To/from anywhere else (including USA and BVI's), have to clear out and clear in.

From Noonsite:
Culebra:
  • Boats enter Ensenada Honda (Big Harbour) then should proceed to the head and anchor in sand just west of Cayo Pirata. If arriving from USVI or BVI all yachts must clear in. One should anchor off the main town of Dewey, which is in the narrowest part of the isthmus. Dinghies can be left at the town dock, which is west of the Dinghy Dock Restaurant. Clearance is done at the airport, about a 2 mile walk away.
  • "eXcetera" computer cafe: internet cafe, mail and shipping, nautical charts, marine ordering, laundry service, cruising guides, etc.
  • A fruit and vegetable truck comes on the ferry from Fajardo and parks outside the post office every Wednesday morning. The ferry to Fajardo takes over an hour and costs $2.50 each way. In Fajardo take two mini-buses to get to the Walmart complex. Provisioning can be done there at Pueblo and Walmart.

From "Delirious": nice hot pools on Isla Culebrita (small island east of Culebra).

From article by Becky Squires:
On weekends, lots of people come over from PR to party on the beach at Culebrita.
Mosquito Bay on Vieques is a bioluminescent bay. If it's calm enough, you can dinghy over from the Ensenada Sun Bay anchorage. Snorkel/dive at night.

My experience 2006 and 2007 and 2008:
  • NPR: WVGN 107.3 FM ("Car Talk" Saturday and Sunday 1 PM, "Prairie Home Companion" Saturday 7 PM and Sunday 4 PM in winter; subtract 1 hour in summer).
    Some BBC on 1620 AM and maybe 103.5 FM, mainly from midnight to 5 AM.


  • Vieques:
    • Green Beach anchorage: A bit rolly if you don't get in close. 8 or 10 free moorings, very close in to shore. I'm told you may find yourself bumping over your mooring-ball in the middle of the night when the wind shifts. Plenty of room to anchor further out, if conditions allow. Easy to get in and out in the dark, by GPS and depth-sounder.


    • Esperanza:
      • Two cays separating anchorages are very tall, with cliffs for sides.
      • Ensenada Sun Bay anchorage: hard to get to town.
      • Middle anchorage, between the two big cays: very protected.
        Several free DNR mooring balls, but dive on the mooring to see what is there; one boat found clothesline down there was holding them.
        Bottom is thick grass; if you anchor there, definitely snorkel on the anchor and set it by hand.
        Watch out for snorkelers near dinghy dock, among moored boats, and out in the middle of the harbor.
      • Dinghy dockage: use NW side of wooden dock (AKA "fisherman's pier").
      • Can get free tourist map of the island and Esperanza and Isabel Segunda; ask at Bananas or maybe any tourist-type business.
      • Garbage: many public garbage cans.
      • No gas station; have to go to "town" (Isabel Segunda) for fuel.
      • Water: maybe ask if you can use hose near kayak shop ?
      • Grocery store: walk to SE end of waterfront, keep going up the road about 1/2 mile, green building. Nice store, and prices aren't bad.
      • Smaller grocery store: Colmado Lydia: walk to NW end of waterfront covered walkway, turn right up side-street, go one block, turn left. Also nice and with decent prices.
      • Library: walk about 2/3 down waterfront covered walkway toward NW end, turn right up side-street at abandoned white bar/restaurant, go one block, on right across from ballfield. MTWRF 8-12,1-8. Small book exchange. Free internet (no floppy disks).
      • Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust: in middle of waterfront "strip"; TWRFSS 11-4. Museum, internet ($3/half-hour for very slow link), book exchange.
      • Van/publico to Isabel Segunda: Jose Morales, 787-435-4277. $3/person one-way, but a minimum of 3 persons in each van-load, so a round-trip for one person would be $18.
      • Van/publico to Isabel Segunda: may be able to pick one up by waiting on the street by the kayak place or the green building grocery store. May work better on a weekend than a weekday ?

    • Puerto Mosquito bioluminescent bay:
      7/2007: I'm told this bay is completely off-limits now, even for dinghies.
      Entrance depth of 3.5 feet reported 1/2006.
      Avoid contaminating the waters; they even tell people not to wear suntan lotion when swimming here.
      Can't go ashore; restricted area.


    • Puerto Ferro bioluminescent bay:
      7/2007: I'm told this bay is completely off-limits now, even for dinghies.
      Avoid contaminating the waters; they even tell people not to wear suntan lotion when swimming here.
      Can't go ashore; restricted area.


    • Ensenada Honda:
      Can't go ashore; restricted area.


    • Bahia Salinas: open weekends only; they do explosive-detonation on weekdays.


    • Isabel Segunda:
      • Probably best to come here by land; the harbor has lots of shoals and looks rolly and unprotected.
      • Can get free tourist map of the island and Esperanza and Isabel Segunda; ask at tourist office (at intersection of Benitez Guzman and Carlos Lebrun) or maybe any tourist-type business.
      • Museum at fort ($2) is terrific; don't miss it. The view is great too.
      • Nice views from lighthouse, but you can't go inside it.
      • Free Wi-Fi internet when you buy food/drink in Roy's coffee lounge.
      • Supermercado Morales: nice smallish supermarket, on 2nd street from waterfront.
      • Lots of publico's hang out at the ferry dock.
      • Ferry to Fajardo: runs often and costs only $2 one-way, but I'm told the ferry dock in Fajardo is in the middle of nowhere, so you'd have to take a taxi/publico on that end.
      • Fuel prices 1/2006: diesel same as in Salinas, about $3.10/gallon. Gasoline about 50 cents/gallon cheaper than in Salinas, about $2.50/gallon.

  • Isla Pineros:
    I'm told it's a nice anchorage.


  • Playa Fajardo / Puerto Real / Fajardo ferry dock:
    Really nowhere to dock a dinghy. And nothing ashore except publico's to shopping areas inland.


  • Isleta Marina / Cayo Obispo:
    Plenty of good anchoring space. Occasional wakes. Isleta Marina charges $10/day for dinghy dockage (which lets you use the little ferry to Playa Fajardo for free). Nothing useful in the marina except a bare-bones marine store. No fuel dock.


  • Playa Sardinera / Villa Marina:
    Looking from Isleta, it's the second cluster of marinas N of Playa Fajardo.
    Probably possible to anchor in the mouth of the harbor, but only during the week and if E wind is not very strong.
    If you go all the way deep inland (by dinghy), you will find a floating dock on the left. Further inland past marina office, out through guard booth, there are two strip-malls adjacent to the marina. Good marine store, FedEx/WesternUnion store, outboard store, liquor store, bakery/cafe, North Sails loft, okay grocery store.
    Villa Marina has fuel dock (at big diesel tank).
    Whole marina probably is a madhouse on weekends.


  • Isla Palominos:
    18 or more moorings; probably crammed on weekends, but plenty of space to anchor too.
    Fair number of boat-wakes come in, and a couple of times a day a big one will catch you wrong and really roll you.
    Bad roll in the north swells of winter ?
    Really no decent snorkeling; I circled the whole island looking for some.


  • Cayo Lobos (the one N of Isla Palominos): ???


  • Cayo Lobo and Cayo Lobito (the ones W of Cayo de Luis Pena): don't look tenable even as day-anchorages. Maybe just long enough to snorkel while someone stays aboard as anchor-watch.


  • Culebra:
    • Cayo de Luis Pena:
      North anchorage: very nice snorkeling; coral not so great, but lots of colorful fish; no moorings.
      Lana's Cove anchorage (SW corner): only one mooring.
      SE corner anchorage: nice, 4 moorings, totally open to E and mostly open to SE, snorkeling not good (maybe better outside to N ?).

    • Tamarindo shoreline (NW of Dewey):
      Snorkeling decent, some nice fish.
      18 moorings from NW of Punta Tamarindo Chico to NW of Punta Tamarindo Grande.
      Best snorkeling is NW of Punta Tamarindo Grande: some decent coral, and fair number of fish.
      Rolly at times.

    • Bahia de Sardinas anchorage (west side of Dewey):
      • Fairly rolly.
      • Dinghy dock: tie up to concrete steps between ferry docks. Pick one end or the other, so you don't obstruct the occasional charter boats that dock here briefly to load passengers.
    • Bahia Linda anchorage (just S of W side of Dewey):
      Much better than shown in Pavlidis' sketch.
      Need good light to get in and out.
      Some fishing-boat activity, dragging flats in and out.

    • Ensenada Honda anchorage:
      • There's an airstrip; planes pass low NW-SE just NE of Cayo Pirata; avoid anchoring there. W and SW of Cayo Pirata is fine.
      • Strong SE or E wind can cause a lot of chop in the harbor.
      • Dinghy dock: near canal, free dockage on concrete govt dock.
        Also can dock at "Dinghy Dock" restaurant if you eat there; across canal from govt dock.
        Also, wooden dock in NW corner of anchorage, has small cabin-cruiser at it; across street from ballfield.
      • Internet: sometimes can get a free Wi-Fi signal NW of Cayo Pirata. Looks like "culebrawireless" costs $40/month.
      • Lots of RFI; reception of NPR and marine SSB not very good.
      • Water Taxi: VHF 69.
      • John on "Serene" was here (by land) when hurricane Hugo approached in 1989; he says the whole harbor was stuffed with an amazing number of boats, large and small. He figures everyone fled St Thomas and other places to come here as a better "hurricane hole".
    • Dewey town:
      • Lift bridge over canal has adjacent pipes and cables that limit vertical clearance to 15 feet or so. Bridge is inactive: never lifted.
      • Internet: At "eXcetera" computer cafe; $15/hour, no Wi-Fi, MTWRF 9-1 3-5.
        At Pan Deli: one PC plus Wi-Fi, $15/hour or $25/week.
      • Fuel: dinghy up canal, under bridge, tie up at gas station on S side. Cash only.
        Also, at Ricky's, near ferry dock.
      • Hardware/marine store: Joe's, near gas station on SE side of canal. Closed at lunchtime.
      • Auto-parts store: one-room store behind gas station on SE side of canal.
      • Hardware/lumber store: near airport; turn left near "Playa / Airport" sign.
      • Food: Colmado Milka's: left from govt dock, over bridge, right fork.
        Also, Superette Mayra: turn right from govt dock, go 1 block (closed for siesta, maybe 1 to 3:30).
        Produce (especially fruit) arrives Tuesday and Friday mornings.
      • I'm told the library is inside the school, and the public can use it after 3 PM. But 12/1/2006 a teacher told me they have no internet: it's being rewired, they've "gone through a couple of contracts", and who knows when it will be working.
      • Book exchanges:
        Big one at Paradise Gifts, across street from school, 9-6 but often opens more like 10, and closed Wednesdays (also Tuesdays in summer). Maybe closed 1-2 for lunch.
        Tiny exchange box at On Island gift shop, above Dinghy Dock restaurant.
      • Bakery: Pan Deli: from govt dock, go 2 blocks inland, turn right onto art-gallery street, go 1 block.
      • As of 12/2007, new public library in a trailer straight S from the bridge, uphill from the fire station. Hours approximately FSMT 10-2. No internet.
      • Water: 25 cents/gallon at Dinghy Dock restaurant. Maybe free at DRNA dock on NE side of harbor.
      • Garbage: public cans at govt dock, and throughout town.
      • Propane: Culebra Gas / Perez, 375-8877 (too far to walk; he has a truck).
      • ATMs: at Banco Popular (at ferry dock), and at "eXcetera" computer cafe.
      • Shipping stuff in: "eXcetera" computer cafe will receive packages for $2/package. PO Box 840, 126 Escudero St Culebra PR 00775. 787-742-0844. goexcetera at yahoo.com. I think: Send big package via UPS only, and leave off PO box. Send small packages US mail to PO Box.
    • Ensenada Dakity anchorage:
      • Very nice; very protected. Reef/shoal is mostly coral with lots of shells; walking barefoot on it is painful.
      • In good weather and a holiday, fills up on Saturday morning, and stays full all weekend. Gets very crowded with rafted powerboats on moorings and at anchor; wouldn't want to be here in severe weather or a dramatic wind-shift.
      • Internet: sometimes can get a free Wi-Fi signal.
      • TV channel 12.
    • Puerto Manglar / Bahia Almodovar: very sheltered in the Almodovar anchorage. 8-10 mooring balls; 20 feet deep just about everywhere else. Wi-Fi at SW end. Snorkeling lousy.
    • Isla de Culebrita:
      Rolly if NE or N swell.
      Very popular with powerboats on weekends, but there's plenty of space.
      Some good snorkeling out at the extreme NE corner of the anchorage, out into open water.
      Good exercise hiking up to lookout tower, but the trails are very overgrown and so is the area at the top, which restricts the views. Trail starts in middle of beach. I took right turn at first fork (and much later, a left uphill), but I think going left is more direct. Take water and wear footwear.
    • Flamingo Beach: no moorings. Little shelter from ENE swells; rolly. Nice-looking beach.





US Virgin Islands (USVI's)

Entry fee: US annual cruising decal/permit; $25 for USA boat.

Guidebook: "Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands" by Nancy and Simon Scott (11th edition 2003) (but I'm not too impressed with it, and have heard that Pavlidis has a better guide).
US Coast Pilot 5, chapter 14 covers the USVI's.

Charts: Maptech's Region 10 chartkit.

USVI courtesy flag

USVI map from World Atlas
Excite about USVI

USVI's consist of three big islands: St. Thomas and St. John close together and near the BVI's, and then St Croix about 35 miles south of all of them.

Going from USVI to BVI: don't have to clear out of USVI, do have to clear in to BVI.
Going from BVI to USVI: have to clear out of BVI, and have to clear in to USVI.
Better to clear in at St. John, rather than at crowded St. Thomas.
If going from USVI to anywhere except BVI, Culebra or Puerto Rico, check out and get an exit clearance from the USVI: next country will want to see it.

From Noonsite:
  • US Customs telephone numbers: St Croix 773-1011, St John 776-6741, St Thomas 774-9700.
  • US Customs next to St. Croix Marina.
  • No fees are charged Monday to Saturday 0800-1700, after which overtime rates apply.

St. Thomas is busiest island, St. Croix is quieter, St. John is mostly national park.

Regatta in St James Bay St Thomas: on Easter weekend / last weekend in March.
St John Blues Festival, Cruz Bay, late March.
Carnaval on St Thomas: last week in April, in Charlotte Amalie. A couple of parades and some nice fireworks.
Jump-Up and triathlon on St Croix: first week in May. Fun, but not great.


Store on St. Thomas: Lighthouse Marine. where ???

St John is mostly national park and has white-with-blue-stripe NPS moorings: free during the day, but $15/night whether you moor or anchor.
Orange-and-white moorings are day-use-only, 3-hour limit.

Avoid the hospital on St. Thomas: it has an awful reputation (high staff turnover, lack of supplies, bad results). [But that info is old; 4/2008 someone said they had a good experience there.]

Hiking on St. John: take taxi to top of Reef Trail, walk down past petroglyphs to sugar mill, get Park Service boat back to Cruz Bay ?

Salt River Bay on St Croix is really the only place in the USVI's I'd consider a "hurricane hole". Benner Bay on St Thomas, and Flamingo Bay on Water Island / St Thomas are possibilities too. But all of these are regulated by the marine police, and some have reservation systems; check before the start of hurricane season.

From "Insider's Guide to the Caribbean" by Jonathan Runge:
Residents of St. Thomas have a fairly hostile attitude toward visitors.

Water-taxi in Charlotte Amalie harbor on St. Thomas: Oldport Launch, VHF 9.

Boatyards:
  • St. Thomas: Haulover Marine, 340-776-2078. Located on west side of Crown Bay, just west of Charlotte Amalie, on south side of St Thomas. Looks very small to me, with very little room for boats ashore. Seems to have good shop facilities: canvas, hydraulic, etc.


  • St. Thomas: Independent Boat Yard, 340-776-0466, independentboatyard at hotmail.com. 6249 Frydenhoj, St Thomas USVI 00802.
    Located in The Lagoon, Benner Bay, at SE corner of St Thomas.
    Rates 4/2006: haul-out $12/foot; yard-days $0.60/foot/day if using their labor, $1.20/foot/day if DIY; bottom-prep-and-paint labor $10/foot.
    DIY allowed; living aboard on the hard allowed; will use paint you supply; boat length is taken from registration; insurance not required. Showers cost 25 cents for 2 minutes, and must get key for $50 deposit. Don't charge a fee if you bring your own paint.
    No VHF radio.
    Busy time is the summer, when so many boats are on the hard for hurricane season that they want the worked-on boats in and out as quickly as possible.
    Lots of marine stores in or near the boatyard: Budget Marine, outboard repair, canvas/sail places, machine shop, diesel places, etc.
    Supermarket across the street.
    Also a good marine store a couple of miles away in Red Hook.
    If the yard doesn't have a part in stock and wants to order it from off-island, make them call the marine stores in Red Hook and Crown Bay first; they won't do so unless you insist.
    Many taxis to rest of island.


  • St. Croix: St. Croix Marine, 340-773-0289. PO Box 24730, Gallows Bay, St Croix USVI 00824.
    Located in Christiansted.
    Rates 4/2006: haul-out $11/foot plus $50 for insurance; yard-days $1/foot/day; bottom-prep-and-paint labor $40/hour.
    DIY allowed but must buy materials from their store or pay them euivalent profit-margin for your materials. Living aboard on the hard not allowed, but they might let you if your stay will be very short.
    But: I'm told of lots of bad experiences of people having work done by the yard: bad work and extra charges, and people winning lawsuits against the yard.
    I'm told 1/2009 by someone who worked there: the ownership charges boat-owners for more hours than actually worked by the workers.
    Very good marine store in the boatyard. Also lots of shop facilities.
    Good hardware store nearby.



Sailmaker on St. John: Canvas Factory and Lee Sails, 340-776-6196. Where ?

Fishing: there is ciguatera around St Thomas and St John, but not St Croix.

My experience 2006:
  • I anchored everywhere; never paid a mooring fee. I day-used NPS moorings at a few popular snorkeling spots on St John.


  • NPR: WVGN 107.3 FM ("Car Talk" Saturday and Sunday 1 PM, "Prairie Home Companion" Saturday 7 PM and Sunday 4 PM in winter; subtract 1 hour in summer).


  • Nice classical music station: 91.3 FM.


  • BBC on 1620 AM and maybe 103.5 FM, from midnight to 5 AM.


  • Cheapest way to ship stuff in: US post office. UPS, DHL and FEDEX very expensive. BaxGlobal semi-expensive.
    10-lb package with insurance from Philadelphia 1/2007 would be $25 through post office, $85 through BaxGlobal, $165 through UPS.
    Also: the US post office considers the USVI a domestic destination (so direct delivery and no Customs hassle); the shipping services consider USVI an international destination (so you have to go to their offices near the airport, pick up paperwork, take it to Customs near Crown Bay, then back to offices near airport).
    Sail sent via US post office parcel post from California took 5 weeks.


  • St Thomas:

    • Open-air taxi's ("safari's"): $2 to go anywhere. Look for ones with local black people aboard; the others are cruise-ship taxis and won't stop for you, or charge more.


    • Bus routes: $1 for any route, I think. No official route maps; a somewhat-helpful route map in "This Week" tourist magazine, but (in Charlotte Amalie) the route numbers on it don't match those on the busses. Many drivers have such a thick accent that they can't be understood. Not allowed to take suitcases on the bus to the airport in Charlotte Amalie. Busses very rarely seen on east end of island; much better to take "safaris".


    • Ships agent that will deliver anything to docks: Stuart Butler, 340-776-8660, www.deliveritvi.com. Oriented to big ships; probably not cheap.


    • Supposedly good Perkins diesel mechanic: Hector of "VI Tecno Diesel", Charlotte Amalie, across from SW corner of Havensight Mall, where road starts uphill and curves to right. Building has big "VI Tecno Diesel" lettering on it; can't miss it.
      Cash or check only; no credit cards.
      Mailing address: PO Box 9009, 15-C, Havensight, St Thomas VI 00801, 776-3080.


    • Battery shop, on a hilltop somewhere N of the airport: Caribbean Battery, 340-776-3780.


    • Flying out: Spirit Airlines has cheap flights to Ft Lauderdale. Have to become a member, for $40/year, to get best fares, but some fares are incredibly low if you are flexible.


    • Brewers Bay (NW of airport): good anchoring; beach-park but no dinghy dock; no Wi-Fi 12/2008.
    • Water Island:
      • Flamingo Bay:
        • Lots of high-speed dinghy and skiff traffic; be careful if you swim or snorkel.
        • Very nice snorkeling (great fish) around rocks at NW corner.
        • Inside part is hurricane hole; I'm told 5-foot draft can get in okay. But it's regulated; check with police before start of hurricane season.
      • Honeymoon Bay / Druif Bay:
        • Rolly even in E wind.
        • Internet: sometimes can get a free Wi-Fi signal.
        • Monday evening movie on the beach (at least in winter).
      • Phillips Landing ferry dock at SW end of Elephant Bay (Providence Pt): dinghy dock, book-exchange, phone booths. Ferry goes to Crown Bay marina; round-trip $9.
      • Elephant Bay: deep and often rolly.
      • Pizza Boat: VHF 68.

    • Crown Bay:
      • Haulover Marine, SW of bright red roofs at SW end of concrete cruise-ship docks:
        • Two dinghy-docks for customer use only, but you probably could land for 30 minutes to do other business.
        • Haulover Marine's yard looks small; room for few boats.
        • Yamaha and Yanmar dealer (Offshore Marine; carries Yamaha outboards, scooters and generators); canvas/sail place; rigging/hydraulic place.
        • A couple of blocks from the waterfront: electrical contractor supply house, many auto-repair places, starter/alternator repair place, welding shop.
      • Crown Bay marina, NE of concrete cruise-ship docks:
        • Fuel dock: immediate right just inside entrance, very easy to get to. Call on VHF 16 or 11 for permission to enter/exit the marina.
          Use fenders; no rubber fendering on fuel dock.
          Prices 3/2006: gasoline $3.20/gallon, diesel $3.11/gallon, water 14 cents/gallon. Fuel about 20 cents/gallon more expensive than in Culebra.
          In 12/2006, gasoline $3.39/gallon.
        • Dinghy-dock: straight in and then on left side at end. Free, but two-hour limit, very crowded in winter, no overnighting, says DPNR registration required.
        • In the marina: very nice marine store, mail/phone place (internet $15/hour), medium-size gourmet supermarket (very expensive). Garbage dumpster at NE end of parking/marina area.
        • Shipping stuff to shipping store in the marina: store is "Messages, Mail and More", 340-776-4324, email. Best to use United States Postal Service Express mail: it will have a tracking number and it is more economical. Ship to address: Your name c/o Messages Mail & More 8168 Crown Bay Marina Suite 310 St Thomas VI 00802-5819. Notify in advance if you will use this service and the name it will be in so that they will know to accept delivery. Charge is $2 to $10 or so depending on size.
        • Marine store in the marina: I think it's Island Marine, 776-0753.
        • Electrical/alternator place: Bradford's. A couple blocks NW from marina, past Dept of Public Works, on second floor. Another motor-repair place on other side of same building: Omega's. A third place, Thomas's, is somewhere near the airport.
        • Kia auto-dealer with parts department: two blocks NE from marina.
        • Pueblo supermarket: two blocks NE from marina. Food prices pretty high; milk/cheese/meat/produce is in a separate area of the building; bread often bad quality.
        • NAPA auto parts, and SeaChest / Ace / TrueValue hardware store: 3/4 mile NE from marina, past Pueblo, near Esso gas station.
        • Radio Shack: hard to see, in small shopping center near Pueblo but up north road towards airport.
      • NAPA auto parts, and TrueValue hardware store: dinghy ashore to Tropical Shipping dock east of Crown Bay marina, blue building; a block or two inland from there, near Esso gas station.
      • Customs: on waterfront behind SeaChest / Ace / TrueValue hardware store. Must go through guarded entrance, and show photo ID.

    • Charlotte Amalie harbor:
      • Very rolly if strong winds with any S component. Wakey and rolly often in any conditions.
      • Dinghy ashore to dock on west side of Coast Guard area / Emancipation Park, or into dinghy dock on town side of Yacht Haven Grande marina.
      • Seaplanes landing in the harbor near Frenchtown, and taking off down the main channel.
      • Internet: sometimes can get a free Wi-Fi signal on the boat.
        Internet $2/hour at library; have to use their PC; can use flash-drive.
        Internet cafe "Beans, Bytes and Web Sites" up alley next to "Tavern on the Waterfront", which is about 3 blocks west of main park area: $9/day for Wi-Fi, or 10 cents/minute for PC/Ethernet/Wi-Fi.
        Wi-Fi at "Bad Ass" cafe in Yacht Haven Grande marina (but Wi-Fi signal may be unreliable, and the few AC outlets usually are completely full).
        Across street from Wendy's near Havensight; upstairs from Kainan restaurant; $5/hour for their PC, $3/hour for laptop Ethernet; boot up laptop before getting Ethernet cable and starting the clock running.
        On second floor above Wendy's near Havensight; don't know prices.
      • Tourist Info: inside gift shop across from SW corner of central park, across from USCG / dinghy dock area. Small info kiosk on sidewalk a couple of blocks west.
        Another kiosk in Havensight Mall.
      • Garbage disposal: cans on street across from USCG dock, and in Yacht Haven Grande marina.
      • Library: on Main Street at International Plaza (about 5 blocks from Emancipation Park, just short of yellow steps in sidewalk). MTWRF 9-5, Sat 10-4. No newspapers except local daily. Some magazines. Internet $2/hour. Book-exchange racks in front lobby.
      • Several small grocery stores scattered through town; bakery and market a block or two inland from ScotiaBank, several blocks west of USCG dock.
      • Yacht Haven Grande marina: Call on VHF 10 before taking boat in to fuel dock, which is on outside, down cruise-ship alley. No book-exchange, no internet, no marine store.
      • Supermarket: Pueblo, 1 block inland (E) from Yacht Haven Grande marina.
      • KMart: 2 blocks further inland (E) from Pueblo supermarket. Has food section downstairs, including bread, dairy, lunchmeat. Pharmacy in same mall.
      • Outdoor malls at cruise-ship dock: Havensight mall and Port of Sale mall: mostly tourist stuff, but a pharmacy, couple of bookstores, banks, etc.
      • Radio Shack: in Buccaneer shopping mall across street from Port of Sale mall, behind KFC.
      • Starter/alternator shop and welding shop: next to Pueblo.
      • Home Depot and Cost-U-Less: a couple of miles up over hills from Yacht Haven marina on way to TuTu Mall; take an open-air (safari) taxi. Cost-U-Less doesn't provide bags; bring your own. Prices in Cost-U-Less about 1/2 those in Benner Bay supermarket 4/2008.
        Also a PriceSmart (membership only) store on that same road.
      • Cheapest fuel: maybe Caribbean Petrol fuel truck; call John 340-643-4900. Dock at concrete dock in front of Holiday Inn.
        But fuel dock at Yacht Haven Grande marina has quite good prices 1/2009.
      • Water: 20 cents/gallon at fuel dock at Yacht Haven Grande marina 1/2009.
      • Blackbeard's Castle: tickets sold from 9 to 1, and main attraction seems to be a swimming pool, although there's a garden and museum also. Great view of harbor from up there.
      • Small water-taxis (don't know if they'll stop at boats): "Morning Star" and "Evening Star".
      • Taxi from town to airport: $7/person plus $4 extra for luggage.
      • Engine and transmission work and parts: Hector at "VI Tecno Diesel", across street from SW corner of Havensight Mall, where road starts uphill and curves to right. Building has big "VI Tecno Diesel" lettering on it; can't miss it.
        Cash or check only; no credit cards.
        Mailing address: PO Box 9009, 15-C, Havensight, St Thomas VI 00801, 776-3080.
      • Mail: post office near hospital will do General Delivery; post offices in town and in Havensight Mall will not.
        No mail-receiving store for one-time packages; Crown Bay is nearest.
        Can rent PO boxes in various places: post offices, Beans Bytes and Web Sites cafe in town, internet cafe above Kainan restaurant (across street from Wendy's near Havensight).
      • Optician/optometrist: one in KMart mall, another across street from Pueblo.
      • Sailmaker: Manfred Dittrich on Hassel Island. Comes in to N dinghy-dock at marina most weekday mornings at 9:15 to pick up an assistant. 3801 Crown Bay, Suite 203, St Thomas USVI 00802. Phone 340-774-4335, cell 340-473-6190.

    • Buck Island:
      Not mentioned at all in Scott's guide.
      Half a dozen moorings in the bay on the SW corner, but they're usually full of big charter boats. I think they have a morning trip and an afternoon trip, so lunchtime (11:30 to 1:30) is a good time to get a mooring here. Watch out for snorkelers.
      Moorings are 3-hour-limit, no overnight stays.
      Three more moorings off west tip of the island in exposed water; nobody on them when I was there.
      Decent snorkeling in NW corner of SW bay; didn't try other areas.

    • Home Depot and Cost-U-Less: inland, halfway between downtown Charlotte Amalie and TuTu Mall. Cost-U-Less doesn't provide bags; bring your own.
      Also a PriceSmart (membership only) store on that same road. Take a safari that runs between downtown and TuTu Mall to get to the stores; watch carefully for signs at entrance driveways to stores, because the stores are not visible from the road.


    • TuTu Mall (inland, between Charlotte Amalie and Red Hook):
      KMart, Western Auto, big supermarket, post office, etc.


    • The Lagoon / Benner Bay:
      • Inner anchorage jammed full (and they're expanding a marina); anchor further out and dinghy in.
        Outside anchorage is exposed and rough.
      • To get to False Bay anchorage: I think you keep two small white buoys just to starboard as you head in to the anchorage, but I'm told it's tricky and there's a sharp turn, and lots of shallow water. I'm told someone got a 6.5-foot-draft out at high tide. I'm told 4/2007 that authorities have been trying to clear out the anchorage for years. Saw a trawler go in 5/2007: they headed W to keep red buoy about 100 feet on port side, then when it was abeam, made a sharp port turn to pass it about 50 feet on the beam while heading maybe SSW.
      • Dinghy docks: one at E end, at Compass Marina, but there's nothing there except a few marine businesses; isolated from the rest of "town".
        Another dock at Budget Marine: after the channel markers end, keep going straight in, past the small red Texaco sign on the left, straight towards Budget Marine sign.
        Another dock at Pirate's Cove marina: turn left just before small red Texaco sign.
      • Water: 15 cents/gallon at dock with very small red Texaco sign; Pirate's Cove Marina.
      • Budget Marine: very nice marine store. 779-2219. MTWRFS 8:30-5:30, Sun 9-2.
      • Independent Boatyard: surrounds the Budget Marine store. Doesn't monitor VHF.
      • Fuel: gas station across street from Independent Boatyard has diesel; Pirates Cove marina fuel dock is closed 3/2008; another fuel dock further west in the harbor.
      • Supermarket: across street from Independent Boatyard and 1/2 block west.
      • Book-exchanges: on outside of machine-shop building in Independent Boatyard, in Pirates Cove marina, in Patsy's Place in Compass Point marina, and in VIPYachts office in Compass Point marina.
      • Perkins diesel place: in Compass Point marina.
      • Outboard store: Gary's Marine Service, across street from boatyard. Sells Tohatsu and Suzuki 4-strokes.
      • Internet: free Wi-Fi in Bottoms Up bar in Independent Boatyard if you buy food/drink, free Wi-Fi in demolished cafe at Pirate's Cove marina.
        Once got a Wi-Fi signal while sitting on the porch of the marine store.
      • Packages: Pirate's Cove marina will receive but not send packages; their address is Pirate's Cove Marina, 6186 Estate Frydenhoj, St Thomas, USVI 00802-1424, 340-779-2799.
      • Used oil disposal: I'm told the boatyard will take oil for about $3/gallon, and Compass Point marina for about $1/gallon.
      • VITrans bus very infrequent; hardly ever seen.
        Safari taxis only run clockwise; from Benner Bay to Red Hook they go the long way around. $2 for any trip. Westbound from boatyard, they go to TuTu Mall; from there you can get one to downtown. Some go all the way to airport or further for same $2.
        Normal taxi often will take you to Red Hook the short way for $2 if they're going anyway.
      • No fishing allowed in the triangle from Red Hook to Little St James to Patricia Cay, including all of Jersey Bay and Benner Bay.

    • Nazareth Bay / Secret Harbor: very exposed to prevailing wind and swells. And getting full of moorings.


    • Cowpet Bay: full of moorings.


    • Current Cut: not sure: think current flows NE when tide is high, but it may be wind-driven more than tide-driven.


    • Christmas Cove / Great St James Island: decent holding.
      Often very rolly during the day, because of ferry wakes; try to get inside Fish Cay.
      Didn't see any good snorkeling north of Fish Cay.
      Lots of boat and dinghy traffic, and swimmers; be careful.
      No fishing allowed.


    • Great Bay: kind of nice. Some wakes get in. No fishing allowed.


    • Red Hook Bay:
      • Very rolly from ferry wakes, very exposed to normal SE wind and swells, crowded with moorings and boats, bad holding.
      • Good marine store: Island Marine, 340-775-6621.
      • Internet: East End Secretarial Services in Red Hook Plaza; $10/hour for Wi-Fi or their PCs; also a book-exchange; 340-775-5262.
      • Post office agent: East End Secretarial Services in Red Hook Plaza.
      • Big book-exchange in American Yacht Harbor marina.


    • Water Bay / Coki Point: looks very exposed to normal SE wind and swells.


    • NW end of Thatch Cay: too exposed, even in E wind and swells. Maybe tenable in SE or S wind and swells.


    • Magens Bay:
      Deep until you get close in to the swimming area, then anchor in 15-25 feet in E corner of bay, near moored small boats.
      Some shallows along the SW and NE sides as you come in, but they all have lots of coral in them.
      Chart says submerged cables come in, but no signs warning of anchoring restrictions.
      Swells can curl in around N corner.
      No dinghy-dock; was able to pull dinghy up on beach at E corner of the bay 6/2008, but 12/2008 lifeguards made me swim dinghy out into mooring area. Was able to paddle in the last 100 feet or so and beach the dinghy long enough to drop off dry things (camera, book, etc) before swimming the dinghy out.
      Beach is one of top ten beaches in the world as rated by National Geographic.
      Entrance fee to beach is charged if entering from land.
      Snack bar (expensive), clothing boutique, bar, restrooms ashore.
      No fuel or water (except a water-fountain inside the snack bar building).
      Garbage cans.
      AC power outlets in the big picnic shelters.
      Water faucets on/in the restroom buildings are salt-water.
      No stores nearby.
      Snorkeling: in middle of SW shore of the bay, where houses come down lowest, and maybe a bit NW from there.
      Occasional very fragile Wi-Fi 6/2008. No free Wi-Fi 12/2008. Someone said there's Wi-Fi "at the bar"; they probably charge for it.


    • Hull Bay:
      Can't get too far in because of lots of moored skiffs and motorboats. And starting halfway in, the bottom is all coral.
      Very rolly.
      Large book-exchange at Hideaways bar.
      Dive shop. Beach not very good. Occasional Wi-Fi 6/2008; none 12/2008.


    • SSW corner of Inner Brass Island might be a tenable anchorage; have to work around fish-trap floats.


    • Santa Maria Bay: totally open to N and NE.


    • Botany Bay: beautiful place, anchored in 10-foot water, supposedly very good snorkeling, but pretty rolly.
      Go N of Salt Cay and West Cay when entering/exiting; the gap at the W tip of St Thomas is full of rocks. Strong west-setting current N of those cays.


  • St John:

    • Starting at Caneel Bay and running along N side to East End, it's a National Park. $15/night whether you anchor or moor, from 5 PM to 7 AM. Must use mooring if one is available. Can use moorings for free during the day.


    • Starting at east side of Fish Bay and running along S side to Saltpond Bay, it's a National Park. Anchoring not allowed. $15/night for mooring, from 5 PM to 7 AM. Can use moorings for free during the day.


    • VITrans busses: $1 per ride; run about 7 AM to 7 PM, about once an hour in each direction; about 1/2 hour to ride from Cruz Bay to Coral Bay; major stops are Cruz Bay, Health Clinic, Coral Bay, Saltpond Bay; if not near a bus stop, just raise a hand with a dollar bill in it to flag down a bus.


    • Bus routes: route map in "This Week" tourist magazine.
      Looks like "10" bus runs end-to-end down middle of island, from Cruz Bay to Coral Bay to East End.
      "20" bus runs from Cruz Bay along north shore to maybe Leinster Bay.


    • Leinster Bay: very sheltered, popular spot, snorkeling not very interesting.


    • Francis Bay: fairly rolly. Inside NP, so $15/night.


    • Trunk Bay: pretty rolly. Inside NP, so $15/night. A million tiny fish schooling around Trunk Cay 5/2006; nice snorkeling. Most moorings are pretty far from the Cay.


    • Hawksnest Bay: a little rolly. Inside NP, so $15/night. A million tiny fish schooling along the eastern shore 5/2006.


    • Durloe Channel: can be a lot of current through here.


    • Caneel Bay: very rolly and wakey. Inside NP, so $15/night.


    • Cruz Bay:
      • Anchorage is tiny and full of moored smallish boats, with ferries roaring in and out through a channel down the middle. Moor in Caneel Bay and dinghy into Cruz Bay.
      • Dinghy dockage: best is next to Visitor's Center, which is in NE corner behind Texaco fuel dock, N of car ferry dock. Also can dock at base of passenger ferry dock in E-center of waterfront.
      • Get NPS and town brochures at Visitor's Center.
      • Customs is smaller yellow building just S of car-ferry dock, across water from Visitor's Center. Call Cruz Bay Port Authority on VHF 16 before bringing big boat in to dock. Probably better to dinghy in.
      • Free dumpster for boat-garbage next to Customs building.
      • Tourist Office across street from Customs building.
      • Passenger ferry rates 3/2006: $5 one-way to Red Hook, $12 one-way to Charlotte Amalie.
      • Library: from passenger ferry dock, straight inland, past bank, past ballfield, take right fork, large white building on a hilltop on the right side. Internet $2/hour. Only local newspapers.
      • Supermarket: at The Marketplace, another block or so past the library. Prices very high. MTWRFSS 0730-2100.
      • Pharmacy: in The Marketplace, across from supermarket.
      • Hardware store: in The Marketplace, one story up from supermarket. Nice store.
      • Book exchange: small one in Larry's Landing bar, in Wharfside Village.
      • Connections internet/mail store: one block inland from passenger ferry dock. Internet $10/hour.
      • Bar: Woody's, with 3-6 PM happy hours with $1 mixed drinks and beers.

    • Turner Bay / Enighed Pond: can't dinghy ashore here, which is a shame because the supermarket and library are here.


    • Great Cruz Bay: full of moored and anchored boats, with ferries roaring in and out through a channel down one side.


    • Chocolate Hole: looked full of anchored boats 3/2006.


    • Rendezvous Bay: rolly.


    • Fish Bay: nicely protected, especially if you can get into 6-foot-deep water on the E side. Buggy at dawn and dusk, especially if it's rained recently.


    • Reef Bay / Ganti Bay: ??? Inside NP; a few day moorings; no overnighting. Petroglyphs.


    • Great Lameshur Bay: ??? Inside NP, so $15/night.


    • Saltpond Bay: ??? Inside NP, so $15/night. Snorkeling out at Ram Head point is great.


    • Coral Bay:
      • Much of N side is inside NP; some day moorings; no overnighting.
      • Coral Harbor:
        • Full of boats (and Johnson Bay as well), but can always anchor at outer edge.
        • Dinghy dock is at N end, at Coral Bay Marine, near building with bright red peaked roof.
        • Coral Bay Marine: seems to be mostly an outboard-repair business, but some supplies too.
        • Skinny Legs: just inland from Coral Bay Marine; restaurant, tourist stores, internet/mail place, book-exchange, boater's hangout. Internet $10/hour.
        • Gas station: 1/3 mile W of dinghy dock. Gas about $3.10/gallon 3/2006; no diesel, but they have a diesel tank that they're planning to install.
        • Garbage: huge public dumpsters about 50 yards W of gas station.
        • Groceries: Love City market, N up road across from dumpsters.
        • Shopping complex: W side of harbor, with red roof, about a mile from the dinghy dock. Well-stocked small supermarket.
        • No reception of NPR on WVGN 107.3 FM.
      • Round Bay / Hansen Bay: have to get pretty close to shore to find shallow water; bottom is coral.

  • St Croix:

    • Intermittent reception of NPR on WVGN 107.3 FM.
    • Frederiksted:
      • Probably best seen by bus from Christiansted.
      • Not much here 4/2006 except the fort and a nice waterfront walkway.
      • Fort Frederik: 1/2 block or so N of pier. $3.
      • Caribbean Museum Center for the Arts: two blocks S of pier. Was gutted for renovation 4/2006.
      • Library: on Strand St at Queen Cross St. Opens at 10 AM.

    • Salt River Bay:
      • Check your charts and guides before you go: Maptech chartkit doesn't cover it, and Scott guide don't give GPS coordinates. Longitude approximately 64.45.380
      • It's a National Park and Preserve controlled by NPS.
      • Tricky entrance 4/2006. Just one small green marker; all other buoys are dive or mooring floats outside the reefs. Inside, saw 5.2-foot water for 50 feet or so at medium-high tide. Enter in calm conditions.
      • Plenty of room to anchor 4/2006.
      • No moorings or special anchoring rules 4/2006.
      • Not much of interest here; snorkeling not very good. Probably good staging point for diving. A bit buggy.

    • Christiansted:
      • Navigation:
        • Entrance channel has sharp turns and a fork; follow chart carefully.
        • Anchorage area S and SW of Protestant Cay extremely crowded 4/2006. Seaplane base SW of the Cay uses water W of the channel there. In NE wind, seaplanes take off right up the channel. A tug with fuel barge comes through this channel to the green fuel tanks ashore. Also a ferry carrying tank-trailers.
        • Can anchor on E side of harbor, N of boatyard/marina.
        • Protestant Cay is private; hotel guests only.
        • Dinghy docks:
          On boardwalk waterfront SW of Protestant Cay:
          - at the SW base of the dock that sticks out from the waterfront, or
          - on the boardwalk just W of the stone tower and E of the seven flags.
      • General:
        • Tourist Info Center: at Scale House, just off waterfront, south of Protestant Cay and just W of Fort Christiansvaern.
        • Visitor's Center: at Company St and Queen Cross St.
        • Library: at King St and King Cross St, about 4 blocks up King St from Scale House. MTWRF 9-5 Sat 10-3. Internet $2/hour, sign up at front desk, but no signs and much confusion 4/2006. Apparently all paperbacks are available for book-exchange; confirm at front desk.
        • Internet/mail/copy store: One Copy, about 4 blocks down Company St from the fort. Internet $10/hour on their computers, $5/hour for Wi-Fi.

        • Fort Christiansvaern: $3 admission to fort and steeple.
        • VITrans bus to center of island and Frederiksted: $1.
          Runs on route 70 / Queen Mary Highway / Centerline Road through center of the island.
          Takes 75 minutes from end to end.
          Weekdays, leaves from Scale House 0800, 0930, 1030, 1200, 1300, 1430, 1530, 1700, 1800.
          Weekdays, leaves from Frederiksted 0915, 1045, 1145, 1315, 1415, 1545, 1645, 1815, 1915.
          Weekends and holidays, probably leaves from Scale House 0800, 1030, 1300, 1530.
          Weekends and holidays, probably leaves from Frederiksted 0915, 1145, 1415, 1645.
          If planning to catch last bus of the day, ask a driver ahead of time to make sure it will be running.
        • I'm told taxi-van all the way to Frederiksted or anywhere between is very cheap: $2.50. Didn't do it myself. Catch at the post office.
      • Supplies:
        • Garbage: a couple of cans on the boardwalk just W of the seven flags.
        • Gas station: toward East End on Hospital St / route 75.
        • Fuel dock: at marina/boatyard N of ferry dock. Prices about 25% less than prices at Crown Bay 4/2006.
        • Newspaper says St Croix has much cheaper fuel prices than rest of USVI, because of oil refinery on south coast.
        • Water: 12 cents/gallon 4/2006 at the fuel dock.
        • Propane: tank exchange at hardware store in East End in Gallows Bay shopping center.
      • Stores:
        • Supermarkets in shopping centers via VITrans bus on route 70:
          big Pueblo supermarket at Golden Rock shopping center at Orange Grove about 1.5+ miles W of Scale House,
          another Pueblo at Sunny Isle shopping center about 4+ miles WSW of Christiansted.
          Several more further west.

        • Walking to Golden Rock shopping center:
          From waterfront E of seaplane terminal, go SW on Watergut St / route 754. It becomes Soboetker Road / route 70. About 3/4 to 1 mile to big intersection. Turn right onto Orange Grove Road / route 75. Go 1/2 to 3/4 mile to shopping center.

        • Wonder if it's possible to dinghy near to Golden Rock shopping center ? Maybe to end of road at water's edge, just W of oil tank/dock area ? Lock up the dinghy; not a very safe area; housing projects.

        • Other businesses via VITrans bus on route 70:
          KMart, Radio Shack, big hardware store, big auto-parts store at Sunny Isle shopping center. Just about any kind of business you could want is somewhere along the bus route. Also: hospital, botanical gardens, Whim platation.

        • Grocery stores in Christiansted:
          Fong's (very small) on King St about 4 blocks from Scale House, and
          Schooner Bay Market (gourmet) in East End at intersection of Hospital St / route 75 / East End Road / route 82 and ??? at NE corner of ballpark.

        • Bakery: on King St about 8 blocks from Scale House, halfway between Market Square and Episcopalian church. Beige building with red roof and shutters.

        • Another bakery: in East End on Hospital St / route 75 / East End Road / route 82 across from ballpark.

        • Hardware store: in East End in Gallows Bay shopping center, about halfway between ferry dock and ballpark. Very nice and big store with garden center and lumberyard.

        • Computer store: in East End, about halfway between Gallows Bay shopping center and ballpark.

      • Miscellaneous:
        • Get Buck Island info and anchoring permit at NPS visitor contact station in Fort Christiansvaern. They need to copy your boat documentation/registration and personal ID for the application. As of 4/2006, there's no charge and no delay, but "soon" there will be a charge and a 4-day processing time.

        • Get Salt River Bay info at NPS visitor contact station in Fort Christiansvaern.

        • Flea Market: behind Sunny Isle shopping center (couldn't find it); WRFS 9-3.


    • Punnett Bay: maybe okay anchorage in settled SE conditions ?


    • Green Cay: ???


    • Buck Island:
      • National Park.
      • No anchoring anywhere except in West Beach anchorage.
      • Anchoring in West Beach anchorage requires a permit, obtained at Fort Christiansvaern in Christiansted. Can anchor overnight.
      • Moorings and underwater snorkel trail are at east end of island.
      • East end moorings are inside the reef (brochure shows them outside).
      • Vessels over 42 feet not allowed to use the east end moorings; must anchor at west end and dinghy to east end.
      • Lagoon controlling depth is 5 feet according to Scott guide.
      • Moorings, lagoon, underwater trail closed from sunset to dawn. Island and beaches may be closed too (brochures are unclear).
      • Could anchor at night in Teague Bay, and use Buck Island moorings or anchorage during the day.

    • Teague Bay: Not very interesting.
      West entrance marker is SSW of Buck Island's West Beach, at longitude 64.38.360



Some BBC content on 1620 AM: midnight to 0500 every day, 0700-0800 weekends.
Some BBC content on 1340 AM, 1000 AM, 100.3 FM, 103.5 FM ?




British Virgin Islands (BVI's)

Guidebook: "Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands" by Nancy and Simon Scott (11th edition 2003).
US Coast Pilot 5, chapter 14 has a few pages of information about the BVI's.

Charts: Maptech's Region 10 chartkit.

BVI courtesy flag

BVI map from World Atlas

BVI's consist of four major islands: Jost Van Dyke, Tortola, Virgin Gorda, and Anegada.

Even more popular/crowded than USVI, but even better cruising than USVI. Some nice beaches. North shores of islands are exposed.
Peak season: December through February; crowded.
Festival: in Virgin Gorda on Easter weekend.
Festival: in Tortola in last week of July and beginning of August.
Full-moon party: monthly, at The Bomba Shack in Cappoon's Bay on Tortola.

Currency is US$.

British Virgin Islands
BVIPirate.com
Excite about BVI
Ginny's Catamaran Sailing Guide To The British Virgin Islands
British Virgin Islands travel group at eGroups/ONElist

Going from USVI to BVI: don't have to clear out of USVI, do have to clear in to BVI.
Going from BVI to USVI: have to clear out of BVI, and have to clear in to USVI.

From 11/2004 issue of Southwinds magazine:
When coming from USVI's, check in at Great Harbour on Jost Van Dyke is easier (less crowded, far easier to anchor) than at Soper's Hole on Tortola.
Told same by "Delirious" and others.

Have read this multiple places: do not check in at Road Town on Tortola; there is a very nasty lady at Immigration there.

Bringing meat into BVI's on private boat is not allowed. But I'm told Customs never asks or inspects for it, and they didn't ask me in 2006, 2007 or 2008.

From Judy Rouse on the SailNet Caribbean Islands list 7/2006:
If you want to keep your boat in BVI waters for more than 30 days during a calendar year, you will have to pay an annual $200 "temporary import fee" at Customs when you check in.
From Nancy Scott 10/2006:
I finally got through to someone in BVI Customs. From what the customs officer said, you would be exempt from import duty for a year providing the boat was used as a personal vessel only (no chartering). At the end of that year you would have to apply for an import duty exemption at a cost of $200, and if you stayed another year you would have to apply for another year's exemption for $200.

However, if you are going down there, make sure you ask Customs when you first clear in. Sometimes you get different answers from different people!

This is the telephone number I finally got through on in case you want to call them: 284-494-3475.
From "Nancy Ann" in Salinas PR: the $200 fee kicks in after 30 days in BVI.
I asked at the Spanish Town Customs office 4/2008 and was told: you can stay for 29 days at a time without triggering the $200 fee; you can leave and come back for another 29 days later in the year, and again, and so on. In other words, the number of days is not cumulative per year.
bvimarineguide.com says after 1 month.

From Noonsite:
  • Yachts in transit may import spare parts free of duty. If the parts are to be fitted by a local company, 5 per cent duty on the value must be paid.
  • Harbour dues and ships' dues depending on the size of the boat.
  • BVI Cruising Tax: All visiting yachts must acquire cruising permits (available from Customs) upon entering BVI waters. Cost is $4 per person, per day, year round.
  • Overtime must be paid for customs clearance outside 0830-1530 Monday to Friday, 0830-1230 Saturdays and on public holidays.
  • Non-residents must obtain a recreational fishing permit in order to fish in BVI waters. Spearfishing, lobstering and the collection of live shells is prohibited.
  • Mooring buoys have been laid in a number of sensitive areas.
    Cruising boats must obtain a National Parks moorings permit and follow these regulations:
    (1) The reef protection buoys are colour-coded: Red buoys: non-diving, day use only; Yellow buoys: commercial dive vessels only; White buoys: non-commercial vessels for dive use only, on a first-come first-served basis and a 90 minute time limit.
    (2) Vessels over 55 ft LOA or 35 tons may not use the mooring system.
    (3) Vessels must use the existing mooring line. To avoid chafe, the line may be extended.
  • Jost van Dyke: Great Harbour:
    Customs and immigration offices are in the same (white) building by the dock. Customs Tel: 494-3430 Police Tel:495-9345

    Great Harbour is a spacious and sheltered anchorage, surrounded by small mountains. The holding can be uncertain, but there are moorings here. The entrance is straight-forward, but keep to the centre line, avoiding the large reef that extends 300 yards from the beach.

    Jost van Dyke Island has many attractive anchorages. One good anchorage, with moorings as well, is Little Harbour.
  • Tortola: Road Harbour:
    Customs and immigration are at the government dock at Road Town. One should anchor off the dock and check in with customs and immigration before proceeding elsewhere. 0830-1630 Monday to Friday, 0830-1230 Saturday.
  • Tortola: Sopers Hole:
    Offices are at the ferry dock at West End. Ferries from the US Virgin Islands stop here, which can mean clearance takes longer if a ferry arrives.
  • Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour:
    Offices are in a new government office block by the ferry jetty.

From letter by Jerry Nisenon in 10/2002 issue of Cruising World magazine:
... the British Virgin Islands are already ruined by too many boats, too many moorings, and too many beach hotels. ... [Good anchorages are] covered with $20-a-night moorings ... leaving the worst spaces open for those who want to anchor. ... the charter-boat industry has outgrown the available space. ...

From 4/2004 issue of Southwinds magazine:
Overnight moorings cost $25/day.
Parks permit to use day moorings is $10/week.
Government cruising permit is $2 per person per day.

Places where you can anchor for free:
NE corner of Benures Bay [on N side of Norman Island];
near Key Point in Key Bay [on S side of Peter Island, near W end];
among liveaboards near De Loose Mongoose in Trellis Bay [on E end of Tortola, N side of Beef Island];
NE corner of Cane Garden Bay [on W end of Tortola];
Brewers Bay [on N side of Tortola, NW] (enter between east reef and center reef);
anywhere in Great Harbour / Jost van Dyke.

[On Norman Island:] From "Delirious" and others:
Instead of anchoring in Norman's Bight (deep), anchor in Benures Bay.

From Mike Branton:
Little Harbour, Peter Island: This always looks popular because the crewed yachts hang out there off-charter. They have a lot more anchor chain than bareboats, and air-conditioning. The bay is plagued with mosquitoes and has no breeze at night. Some have complained that the crews party all night and waterski all day. The surprising depth and lack of wind mean boats swing eclectically during the night. It would be quite simple to collide.

Looks very tempting but there are much better anchorages in the area!

Few hurricane holes, and those fill up with charter boats.

Fishing: there is ciguatera in most places in the BVI.

From Rich Border on Yacht-L mailing list:
Best snorkel -- George Dog [island off W end of Virgin Gorda, W of Long Bay], but don't miss the Baths [SW corner of Virgin Gorda] or the Caves [Norman Island, W end, Treasure Point] either.

Best beach -- the little one way around on the right at the Baths.

Best restaurant -- is a toss up between Paradise at Jost Van Dyke and the restaurant at the Bitter end YC Virgin Gorda.

From Rick Emerson on Yacht-L mailing list:
The Baths can be crowded and, in general, if you're not on a mooring by around 1300, it's going to be a long dinghy ride. Anchoring works in many places but really and truly some charterers are utterly clueless about anchoring. Proceed accordingly.

Although not well-known, a drift snorkel (take the dinghy in tow) or shallow dive along Spyglass Wall, extending north from Benures Bay on Norman I (there's a single white dive buoy at the north end) is time well spent. It was one of my best dives ever and, staying around 20', went on for over an hour. I came up when the rest of the folks, who were snorkeling, called it a day. I still had enough air to hold on for a while longer.

...

Although not a tenable overnight anchorage, Sandy Cay, just east of Jost Van Dyke, has a superb beach.

...

Finally, I dove with Dive BVI and recommend them as a good, friendly, competent dive operator. There are light currents and the water can be cool (I don't chill too easily but I'm glad I wore a 3mm shorty and would wear a full 3mm suit for more than a couple of dives).

From Rick Kennerly on The Live-Aboard List:
... all the reports from the BVI are that anchoring is increasingly not permitted in the more popular spots and you must pick up a mooring at $20 a night. This has come about for a number of reasons. First of all, it's because of the sheer number of boats in the BVI, due to both the charter trade and the larger number of baby boomers retiring aboard each year. Moorings ensure that you can get more boats into a given area because moorings are more space-efficient. Second, moorings prevent many of the anchoring mishaps that frequently cascade through an anchorage when one charterer screws up and in the middle of the night his boat pulls three or four loose. Finally, people on vacation, like charterers, don't mind forking over $20 a night (cruisers, on the other hand, do). But the islanders themselves like them because more boats in your harbor means more people eating ashore, shopping ashore, etc. I wouldn't let this discourage you, but it's something you should be aware of.

From Jeff on the SailNet liveaboard-list:
I recently got back from the BVI's. You need to have a cruising permit to sail in the BVI's which you can get at any of the Custom offices. The permit was around $3 per person per day in the winter, $.75 in the summer. But once you have this it's free to anchor. Without the permit the fines are hefty. I was told $1500 and up depending upon your crew. I was boarded twice in a month in the BVI's, so I would strongly advise you get this permit.

From John / New Life on the SailNet liveaboard-list:
The 32-degree ice (was lucky to last one day) in the BVI was $3 - $4 per bag in the year 2000.

Virgin Gorda "The Baths" (SW corner of the island): giant boulders forming many grottoes and beaches. Now a special $6 charge to enter (but maybe only from land ?).
Fallen Jerusalem: similar to The Baths but less visited.
Anegada: good deserted beaches, and great diving on Horseshoe Reef to SE.
Best snorkeling: "The Indians" (Pelican Island, NW of Norman Island); Norman Island Caves.

From "Muskrat": in Fat Hogs Bay (SE corner of Tortola; 5 miles E of Road Harbour), there are two smallish but good/cheap stores. One is a grocery store, the other a fish store. For some reason, prices are better than in the big supermarkets.

Some BBC content on 780 AM ?

My experience 6/2006 and 5/2007 and 3/2008 and 6/2008:
  • NPR: WVGN 107.3 FM. Starts fading out on E side of Tortola.
    Some BBC on 1620 AM, mainly from midnight to 5 AM. Starts fading out on E side of Tortola.


  • The charter boats seem to start moving at 9 to 9:30. So that's a good time to arrive and grab an anchoring spot.


  • To enter the country: in 2006 and 2007, paid $25 "harbor dues" at Customs (at JVD), and nothing for Immigration. The only odd question was "do you have any pets, firearms or jet-ski's aboard ?". Forgot to ask how the mooring balls work, and if there's a permit for them. Later I went to Customs at Soper's Hole, and they said I didn't need a mooring permit, had no map of the Park area, and had no clue how the special $6 fee for the The Baths was to be paid. I think the "Park area" is not one contiguous area, just many separate spots. Paid $1 departure fee when I left. ("Fidelis" had same experience; no mention of a mooring permit, same fees.)
    In 2008, paid $15 to enter the country; $5/person to exit.


  • I anchored everywhere; never stayed overnight on a mooring. I day-used NPT moorings at a few popular snorkeling spots.


  • Fishing with a line: license required, $35/month.


  • Jost Van Dyke:
    • White Bay:
      Very crowded, even in June.
      Anchoring a little tricky, and lots of inexperienced boaters.
      Moorings in E end; not sure if they're free.
      Reef is not shallow enough to keep all swells out.
      Snorkeling not good.
    • Great Harbour: Port of entry. Lots of charter boats anchor here every night; be careful. No moorings. An ice/water store, bakery, small grocery store and several bars ashore. Restrooms behind police station. Trash dumpster somewhere west of the little bridge. Library in building behind school, down path just east of little bridge (non-working internet computer and a few VI newspapers, 6/2008).
    • Little Harbour: supposed to have a fuel dock, but looking in from the entrance, it looks like there's nothing there except a car-ferry dock.
    • SW corner of Little Jost Van Dyke: very exposed. Half a dozen moorings. Deep water for anchoring.
    • Green Cay: lots of surge.
    • Sandy Cay: very rolly, and rough on the reef. Good only in very calm weather.


  • Tortola:
    • Strong west-setting current along south side of Tortola; best to circle the island clockwise.
    • Brewer's Bay: not a tenable anchorage: underwater cables, exposed to north, and coral heads.
    • Cane Garden Bay:
      Entrance latitude 18.25.770.
      Only one pair of lighted entrance markers 6/2006, not two pairs as shown in Scott guidebook. Reef very hard to see: it's a foot or two under the surface.
      Lots of $25 moorings, but still room to anchor, mostly close to shore.
      Reef is not shallow enough to keep all swells out.
      Frequent free Wi-Fi signals.
      Two ATMs and a couple of tiny snack stores ashore, and one decent grocery store: Bobbi's Marketplace.
      Fuel and water at gas station behind big concrete dock at north end.
      Free public garbage dumpsters: near gas station, and at Bobbi's.
      One-shelf book-exchange: in office at/behind Rhymer's beach bar/restaurant.
      Two-shelf book-exchange: in office of Myett's beach bar/restaurant.
      Internet computers: in office of Myett's beach bar/restaurant, $5/15minutes.
      150 yards to right down beach from dinghy-dock is public restrooms and a taxi stand; $8 each way sharing ride to West End.
      Callwood distillery: from dinghy dock, go south on road about 3/4 mile, past grocery store and curve to right, and distillery is on the left. Mainly a sale pitch; $2/person for a tour ?
    • Soper's Hole / West End:
      • Port of entry.
      • Deep water, crowded, and the only possible anchoring area at the E end has sunken and listing fishing boats (but I was able to anchor for an hour off the stern of one of them, and another time by gently putting my bow aground on the beach and dropping anchor there).
        Later was told that you can grab a mooring for a couple of hours without getting charged; someone comes around to collect fees at 5 or 6 PM from boats staying the night.
      • A couple of fuel docks (Sheppard's and Soper's; call ahead).
      • Harbour Market grocery store.
      • Frenchman's Cay shipyard (looks small).
      • Small boatyard in NE corner is sort of local-only, and mainly for long-term storage/projects, with boats in holes for hurricane season.
      • $2/bag for garbage disposal at Soper's; instead use dumpster along road 50 yards E of Customs.
      • Book-exchange at office next to Ample Hamper Too grocery store.
        I think I saw another book-exchange in one of the bars.
    • Nanny Cay: all marina and boatyard; no anchorage.
    • Road Harbour / Road Town: Port of entry. Anchor in SW corner, at edge of mooring field. No dinghy dock; I tied up at end of a finger-pier between two slips. Long walk into town. Stay left when whole road curves/forks. Turn left at gas station at traffic circle; public library (internet $3/hour; newspapers; M-F 8:30-7, Sat 9-12 ?) is on floor above Rite-Way supermarket.
    • Brandywine Bay: moorings are for restaurant.
    • Maya Cove: Sunsail Yacht Charter base. 3 moorings, but room to anchor. Very rolly at times.
    • West side of Buck Island: private island.
    • Fat Hog's Bay and East End Bay:
      Good anchorage, but sometimes swell comes in. Pretty shallow in NE end, even in the mooring field; I (3.5-foot draft) wasn't able to get up past the mooring field to anchor.
      SW-most marina (pink building with diver-down logo on roof) is Harbourview Marina (formerly Tradewinds). Has fuel and water, small marine store, dive shop, book-exchange in the laundromat. Dinghy-dock is on NE side of long dock, at the base.
      Library is about 1/2 mile SW along waterfront road from Harbourview Marina, on 2nd floor of pink building, across from Post Office. MTWRF 9-5 Sat 9-1. Internet $3/hour.
      Small supermarket: Fine Food, about 3/4 mile SW along waterfront road from Harbourview Marina; go left at intersection with police station.
      NE along waterfront road from Harbourview Marina: another small supermarket (Rite Breeze), a FirstCaribbean ATM (my card didn't work in it), a small hardware-and-variety store, a small grocery store, a couple of municipal garbage dumpsters, Penn's Landing marina, Sailor's Ketch seafood store, then a gas station.
      Penn's Landing marina has a book-exchange and an outboard repair shop, but no fuel dock. Wi-Fi for $10/day.
      Gas station fills propane and sells diesel (15 cents/gallon cheaper than at Harbourview Marina 3/2008, but no easy water access). Someone told me he thinks their pumps are rigged to charge for more than they pump.
    • Trellis Bay on N side of Beef Island:
      • Confusing entrance, with yellow buoys marking the airport boundary on the W side and a black-yellow-green buoy marking a rock on the E side.
      • Watch out for big catamarans motoring fast through the mooring field.
      • Lovely shallow (5-6 foot) sand for anchoring E and NE of moorings.
        No anchoring W of Bellamy Cay.
      • Grocery store (very expensive, and not too well stocked), artist studio/shops, restaurants.
      • Free garbage dumpster at N end of area.
      • Free Wi-Fi at De Loose Mongoose if you eat there ?
        Maybe same thing at Last Resort ?
        Internet $20/hour near studio.
      • In airport: ATM, small mailing store, internet cafe (50 cents/minute !).
      • Monthly Full Moon Party. Get there early to get a mooring or anchoring spot.
    • Marina Cay (N of Trellis Bay): fuel dock. Sometimes free Wi-Fi signal. Really no decent anchoring space.
    • SW end of Guana Cay (Monkey Point): very popular snorkeling spot with 5 day-use moorings and a dinghy-mooring. Can anchor in 20 feet of water outside the mooring area. Very nice snorkeling; don't miss.
    • White Bay (W side of Guana Cay): lots of coral and holding is mixed.
    • Lee Bay (W side of Great Camanoe Cay): poor holding; maybe better very close in to the beach. Further out, in 20 feet of water, my chain wrapped around some small coral and held okay.


  • Virgin Gorda:
    • The Baths (SW corner of the island): protected area; no anchoring allowed; moorings only (but I see lots of people anchoring).
      Can't leave dinghy on the beach, but there are some purple dinghy-moorings close in. High-theft area.
      Extremely popular; get there early to get a mooring; in June, all moorings were full shortly after 8 AM.
      In Spanish Town Customs office 4/2008, sign said even if arriving by sea at The Baths, you're supposed to go ashore and pay a $3/person fee; I'm sure no one ever does.
      I read later: the name comes from when slave-traders used to disembark and bathe their human cargo here.
    • Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour / Spanish Town:
      Port of entry. Boatyard, marine store (Chandlery), Buck's grocery store, liquor store.
      There is a path from the marina, across a field, through a gate in the fence, to the Customs office at the town dock.
      Internet: at marine store, Wi-Fi is free but weak signal, their PC costs $20/hour. Store sometimes closed for lunch hour. Also see people doing Wi-Fi in cafe in middle of mall-type building.
      Book-exchange: at marine store.
      Library: head east out of marina (past pink building) on Millionares Road, to CrabbeHill Road. Turn right, go another 1/2 mile, and it is near the car-wash. About 1.5 miles from the marina. MTWRF 9-5, Sat 9-1. Internet $3/hour.
      I'm told there's another decent grocery store, Rosie's, but it's a cab ride away, somewhere on the south end of the island.
    • Little Dix Bay: entrance lat 18.27.657; two entrance markers 6/2006; lots of reef, so enter/exit in good light. Tight anchorage; I anchored just inside the entrance markers in about 9 feet of water. A lot of water-taxi and dive-boat traffic; don't block the channel.
    • Savannah Bay / Pond Bay / Tetor Bay: lots of reef, so enter/exit in good light. South entrance about lat 18.28.054 long 64.25.740.
      Reef is mostly underwater, so doesn't provide total protection against swells.
      Tetor Bay: a little too tight for safe anchoring if a strong squall came through, and a little rolly.
      Decent snorkeling on main reef.
    • Long Bay: a couple of moorings out near Mountain Point for day-use.
    • The Dogs: three islands west of Long Bay. Very good snorkeling. Protected area; anchoring is allowed, but better to pick up a mooring. But saw only 4 moorings, on W end of Great Dog. I anchored on N side of Great Dog, and found decent snorkeling there, and terrific snorkeling on E side of George Dog.
    • Passage between Anguilla Point and Mosquito Island: passage itself has 9+ feet of water, but large area east of it in Blunder Bay has down to 6 feet. Supposedly good snorkeling on south side of passage, west of Anguilla Point ?
    • Drake's Anchorage / Mosquito Island: island is private. Lousy snorkeling, at least on inside of SE half of Colquhoun Reef: all sand and grass.
    • Leverick Bay hotel: marina, grocery store. Wi-Fi free at the beach bar if you buy a drink. Nothing else ashore outside of the hotel. Grocery store is well-stocked except for milk. Garbage dumpster uphill behind the beach bar. Moorings $25/night.
    • Bitter End: ferry traffic; marina, marine store, mechanic, sailing school, Moorings charter base.
    • Saba ("say-bah") Rock: full of moorings; even close to shore of Prickly Pear Island, anchor will be in 30 feet of water. Buggy. Wi-Fi signals if you get close in to W side of the rock.
    • Biras ("buy-ras") Creek:
    • Eustatia Island: anchorage on W side has decent snorkeling, slightly rolly, fair amount of skiff and dinghy traffic.
    • Necker Island: anchorage on W side: have to stay pretty close to beach to avoid coral. Snorkeling not very good: lots of coral, but few fish, maybe because there's a strong current. Wi-Fi.
      Read in a tourist magazine that you can rent the entire island (for up to 26 guests) for $20K to $40K per day.
    • Deep Bay:
    • Eustatia Sound: fairly rolly, maybe best for day-snorkeling.


  • Anegada:
    • About 13 miles due north of Virgin Gorda.
    • Only one harbor / anchorage, near SW corner. Entrance channel is straightforward; limiting depth about 8 feet. Maybe I got lucky, but I found navigating and entering very easy, despite alarming warnings in various guidebooks and web sites (including Navigating to Anegada).
    • Very limited supplies and facilities.
    • Lots of snorkeling and diving opportunities, but mostly on north side of island or on Horse Shoe Reef SE of island ?


  • Norman Island:
    • Benures Bay: deep anchoring, but very clear water and good snorkeling.
    • Soldier Bay: full of moorings, but just grab one for an hour or so in midday. Snorkeling okay, but sometimes a bit rough.
    • The Bight: they've tried to fill it with moorings, but you still can find a little anchoring space around the edges. I anchored in E end between Pirates and concrete dock. Moorings were mostly full in June. Boat "Deliverance" sells ice, ice cream, collects garbage, etc.
    • Pelican Island / The Indians: very nice snorkeling, but a bit exposed and rough. Only about 5 moorings.
    • Treasure Point / The Caves: the caves themselves are disappointing, and I could swim into only one of them, but the snorkeling in the area is very nice.
  • Peter Island:
    • Little Harbour: didn't stop there.
    • Great Harbour: deep anchoring, unless you get all the way into the SE corner, practically putting the bow on the sand.
    • Deadman's Bay: good anchoring, sometimes rolly, very busy at times, snorkeling not very good.


  • Salt Cay:
    From John Gerstmar:
    Snorkeling over the wreck of the Rhone:

    It was very clear; we took a lot of pictures with underwater cameras - you can see the huge prop, shaft, portholes, etc., quite a mess, and we saw the divers below as well. The wreck is very close to the shore in about 30 feet of water.


  • Cooper Island:



Boatyards:
  • Tortola: Soper's Hole: Frenchman's Cay shipyard. Looks small to me, with room for maybe a dozen boats ashore.


  • Tortola: Soper's Hole: a small no-name locals-only yard in the NE corner.


  • Tortola: Nanny Cay: ???


  • Tortola: Road Harbour: Tortola Yacht Services, 284-494-2124


  • Virgin Gorda: Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour









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