August 1999

Location

Mount Rainier National Park -Mount Rainier at 14,410 feet is Washington's highest active volcanic peak. It generates more than 30 earthquakes annually, has 26 major glaciers making it the most dangerous volcanic mountain in the world. The protection afforded by the National Park, 236,000 acres of wilderness, to Mount Rainier adds to its splendor. Even before the creation of the National Park, Rainier beckoned in this way. Adventurers spotted its faraway summit and dreamed of climbing to the top. With 116 miles of paved roads and more than 300 miles of trails that become available from early July to early October, the park has plenty to offer. There are many visitor and interpretive centers throughout the park which provide information on the many hikes available and the places of interest.
Chehalis Indian legend tells of two female mountains, Mount Rainier and Mount St. Helens, quarreling over the male Mount Adams. The two women fought, throwing hot rocks and fire at each other until Mount Rainier was struck so hard that her head was broken off.

Activity

Our move from a very hot Wenatchee was a welcome one as it takes a certain kind of person to get used to that sort of heat, and it certainly was not for us. The 170 miles journey took us up and down good mountain roads before arriving at Yakima valley which is the state's richest agricultural area, with miles of apple trees and vineyards, and then onto Highway 12. This is yet another of those very scenic roads we have encountered so many times before, but this was different - the drive up and then along Rimrock Lake before reaching the summit of White Pass (el 4,500 ft.), with wonderful views of the surrounding mountian ranges, then its all downhill with a lot of hairpin bends for about 10 miles, but during which time we got our first view of Mount Rainier - around a bend and there it is L-A-R-G-E-R than life. The day was clear, blue skies with just a few fluffy white clouds which surrounded the snow clad top. Our first sighting will remain with us always. We had thought the mountains we had seen over the past few months were fantastic, but nothing can prepare you for this sight - it should be one of the wonders of the world. The remainder of our drive to our chosen RV park at Packwood was done in the shadow of "big daddy".

Visited the local Ranger Station in Packwood. With the amount of walks that were already possible both inside and outside the Park, and the ones that may soon become available we decided that a two week stay in this area was well worthwhile. This also gave us the luxury of some relaxing days which is what we haven't managed so far due to the many places we wanted to visit while in a particular area.

Packwood, population 1,010 - very handy for the National Park. The RV Site we had chosen was just off the main road and gave us the luxury of shops within walking distance and the local library for Internet access almost in the site. A restaurant/bar with country & western karaoke but with no draft Microbrew which was a bit disappointing for Wullie.
Paradise is aptly named as it is one of the most beautiful places in the park, a visitor center, snack bar and gift shop make the wonderful drive through the park to Paradise a must for anyone in the area. The day we visited it was shrouded by cloud and the meadow was still covered in deep snow, so we were unable to see the wild flowers all the books write about, we had also hoped to do some of the many short hikes but this was not possible either. Vice Presidents Gore's visit that day also made the area very busy with the film crew and on-lookers that follow him..
Sunrise at 6,400 feet is the other beautiful tourist area in the park, and turned our to be our favorite. It is the closest you can drive to the peak. The day was clear and bright which gave us a wonderful view of Emmons Glacier and the peak. The snow had cleared which allowed the carpet of wild flowers, which included the multitudes of Magenta paintbrush a most vibrantly colourful flower to be admired. This side of the park is much quieter than Paradise which made the drive more relaxing. Next time we will hopefully be able to do some of the many walks that are on offer, and once again see the fantastic views on the drive.
Chinook Pass - El 5,430 feet. This pass is closed in the winter and had only opened two weeks before. Some cross country ski enthusiasts had driven across the state from Spokane to take advantage of the late snow. We were on-lookers as that sport uses too much energy for us retired folks - we just enjoyed the wonderful views.
Tatoosh Ridge - El 5,800 feet. This hike goes through dense forest before coming to the open subalpine terrain of the ridge. Our walk had to be terminated short of our destination again because of snow but not without the clear view of Rainier and St Helens. When we go on these hikes we take the video camera with us. This enables us to record the views, flowers and wildlife so the folks back home can see it for themselves. Today we were busy filming the many different colourful types of flowers that surrounded us when the noise behind made us turn round quickly - a deer was strolling through the bushes and had not seen us until he was nearly upon us - we don't know who got the biggest fright. I managed to video his rear before it went through the thicket and out of sight. What excitement - just glad it was not a bear!! A wonderful walk to be repeated and completed on our return.
Packwood Lake - This walk is very popular with local families so it is advisable to do it during the week if possible. Very easy path through Goat Rock Wilderness before coming to lovely Packwood Lake with Johnston Peak dominating the skyline looking east across the lake. The walk continues along the lakeside and from the other end you can view - yes you've guessed right - Rainier. This walk can be turned into a loop walk using the Lost Lake trail and we must do this the next time.
Juniper Ridge - El. 4,800 feet - If we had done this on a clear day this would have been wonderful. As most of our walks it started in forest, but once we climbed to the ridge we had our first close up sighting of Mount St. Helens. The ridge then opens out to wonderful views with the feeling that you can just reach out and touch some of the ridges before you. We found a comfortable spot to have our sandwiches and Gatorade when without much warning the clouds started swirling around our heads which made for a quick downward exit. With the protection of the trees we did not realize how heavy the rain was until a clearing in the forest - luckily this was just before end of the walk so we did not get too wet. The drive down the forest road was completed in heavy rain and very poor visibility.
Coleman Weedpatch- El. 5,200 feet. A nice clear warm day for this walk through woods, meadows, around snow drifts 4-5 feet deep, before ascending to views of Mt Adams, Rainier and Goat Rocks. Who said it was the middle of August. Very impressed with our first sighting of Mount Adams. Linda did not appreciate the attention of a few (thousand) bugs on the scramble to the viewpoint.
A Local Evening - while on one of our many strolls around Packwood we came across a beautiful garden with the gardener pulling up the weeds before they had time to say hello. We started to chat and found that her husband's parents were Scottish and she herself had ties to the Douglas clan. We accepted a kind invitation for a chat later on that evening and spent our last evening at Packwood chatting about their ancestry, Scotland, and many other topics. Since Gary's father was from Kirkcaldy, Wullie was able to provide a lot of local information of the sort not easily found in books. Thank you Jerry and Gary Hird for a wonderful evening - one we will always remember and treasure.

Our next move to Crater Lake was beyond our limit for travelling all in one go. Our freezer and cupboard were low on food, the store was low on beer and wine, we also had to purchase some of those "good-buy" gadgets, so we decided to stop at a site near to Interstate 5, at Albany which was a drive of 120 miles. A trip to Camping World for the all important gadgets, the following day was spent in Eugene at the shopping Malls for food and pickup our mail, Costco for beer and Rite Aid for cheap wine. Two days later we are all stocked up and ready to do the remaining 200 miles to Diamond Lake RV Park. The most scenic part of the journey was after we turned off Interstate 5 and onto Scenic Highway 138 at Roseberg. We had travelled this road in April but in the other direction, which we had thought beautiful at the time. But the direction to travel this road is east towards Crater Lake. The road follows the winding contour of the Umpqua River, which is oh! so beautiful especially with the sun shining on the many small waterfalls that you encounter along this 40 mile stretch of river.

Location

Crater Lake National Park - some 7,700 years ago Mount Mazama at nearly 12,000 feet exploded then erupted which created a caldera. This filled with water and formed Crater Lake. At 1,932 feet deep it is the deepest lake in the Untied States. Rolling mountains, volcanic peaks and evergreen forests surround the six miles wide scenic wonder. Wizard Island a volcano that has risen from the floor of the lake is said to be growing very slowly and will errupt one day in the very distant future. Crater Lake was established as a National Park in 1902. Today the 33 mile road circules the caldera rim and provides many exceptional viewpoints throughout the journey, everyone offering a different prespective.!!All precipitation no river in/out!! Why is it so BLUE?

Activity

Diamond Lake RV Park - El 5,280 feet, is a set amongst tall trees, very quiet with just the Stellar Jays squawking and the chipmunks and golden mantle squirrels for company. A gem of a site - pleased we had booked for a two week stay. The nearest town from here is about 80 miles so it is essential that you stock up before making the journey

Arrived in beautiful sunshine, accomplished a good bit of reversing with the help of good directional help. When Linda went to park the truck she reversed into a tree which had been there for years. Luckily only minor damage to the door and mirror was incurred. Once the aftermath of that incident had calmed, we started putting up the gadgets we had purchased from Camping World. Ladder carrier assembled so we strapped the ladder on - looks so good we won't use it, we'll stand on the picnic table to attach the bug zappers and clips to the awning. (The clips are only really needed if it is windy, but as they are new lets use them now). Nose support (for Fifth wheel not us) - now this was some exercise, luckily the chap next door knew all about them and came to our rescue. Four hours later we rest, satisfied with our achievements. It has been an entertaining time for our neighbors, one they will not forget in a hurry (nor will we).

During our stay here we had a few very loud thunder claps followed by heavy rain, but on that rare occasion we made use of the time to catch up on our paperwork or nip into Medford (180 mile round trip) for shopping. One morning when we looked out across Diamond Lake to the top of Mt. Bailey it was covered in snow - a beautiful sight, but not expected in the middle of August. The temperture also fell to freezing some nights so the furnace had to be lit to stop us and the pipes from freezing.

The people we met on our two week stay here were really friendly. Chats around log fires in the evenings, or while we were wandering around the site made our stay a memorable one. Thank you all.

Diamond Lake - has views of Mt. Thielsen, Mt. Bailey and the rim of the Crater Lake caldera, very popular campsites along the east side. Diamond Lake Lodge at the north end offers boat trips, hire of fishing boats, pedal boats, childrens water dodgems, safe swimming and holiday cabins. The west side has private cabins along the lakeside. We completed the 11.5 mile walk around the lake which took us through woods, a swamp area where the mosquito's had a great meal on us while we viewed Mt. Bailey. We stopped at the Lodge for juice and to watch all the activity, then through the well used campsites along the lakeside. This a popular walk or cycle ride for all ages as the elevation change is only 100 feet.
Crater Lake - we last glimpsed this in April with a promise to return. Drove round the rim stopping at nearly every view point. A truly awe inspiring site. Once again natures beauty brings a lump to the throat. This lake is so blue we believe a park ranger empties a few gallons of blue ink into the lake early each morning to fool the tourists.
Mount Scott Lookout - El. 8,950 feet. This walk starts from one of the view points around Crater Lake. We climbed the 1,350 feet on a very open trail with views most of the way up to alleviate the climb. The panoramic view from the top covered the Oregon Cascade range, eastern Oregon mountains and some northern Californian mountains and all the valleys and plains in between. While we enjoyed the view and our packed lunch the forestry employee moved around his platform watching for forest fires. There were some fires in Southern Oregon which caused a lot of haze across the mountain ranges, but this is one of the few hikes that allows a view of Crater Lake in its entirety.
Upper Rogue River - This walk was started in an airy forest of Douglas fir (some six feet in diameter), Incense cedar, White pine and grand firs. Path follows the river through a 200 foot deep canyon as the river tumbles over two waterfalls and several rapids. Lunch taken at the Rough Rider falls. The river carved this canyon out of the vast ash layer deposited when Mount Mazama erupted 7,700 years ago creating Crater Lake. The trees and the river are the stars of these very pleasant amble. We selected one very large sugar pine cone (a foot long) from the hundreds dotted around the forest floor. (everything is big in America!).
Crater Lake Boat Trip - When we left our RV in our shorts it was lovely and sunny with the temperature of 54 degrees. By the time we arrived at the car park on the rim of Crater Lake it was still very sunny but the temperature had dropped significantly. Luckily we keep heavy jumpers in the truck which came in very useful. We made our way down the steep mile and a half walk to the jetty, stopping many times on the way to admire the wonderful veiw. It is only when you are sitting on the surface of the lake (6,000+) that you realize that Mount Mazama which caused this crater would have been another 6,000 above your head. It brought to mind Jules Verne's "Journey to the centre of the earth". The guide/ranger reckons the mountain will be reconstructed by volcanic eruption over the next 5,000 years and then the cycle will repeat. Glad we won't be around for the next eruption. This trip cost $15 each and took 1.5 hours and was worth every cent.

End of Month Comments

Mount Rainier - several people asked us what we though of this giant and have we anything like it in Scotland. Wullie gave a very good reply - If mount Rainier and the surrounding park were placed in Scotland, there would not be enough room for the people. We have many beautiful mountains at home but it is the sheer size of Rainier and the other mountains we have viewed that have impressed us so much.
Crater Lake - this is a place we could return to time and time again. Although it did not offer a lot of hiking trails, it is just wonderful to drive around the rim and stop at the many viewpoints and picnic areas and just look down into the blue blue water. We have seen it in both summer and winter and just love it.
National Parks - we have visited quite a few in the States we have visited so far. We have come to the conclusion that if a place has been made a National Park then it is well worth visiting. They have been created to allow everyone to benefit from the accessible road systems, rest areas, viewpoints and information centres. We intend to visit as many as possible on our trip and are convinced that they will all have something to offer us.

Miles travelled this month: 1,808

Accumulative miles: 7,768

Hyper Links that may be of interest:

Mount Rainier National Park

Crater Lake

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