CANADA DAY - Even our Canadian visitors woke quite late so our plan to attend the parade in Invermere was shelved. The excitement of the morning was a notice in the site office advising all that a Cougar/Mountain Lion with two cubs had been spotted nearby - caution should be taken. Apparently it is not unusual for Cougar prints to be seen around here especially in winter, but the Cougars themselves are very rarely seen. Visited Invermere for a pizza and pint lunch at the Lakeside Pub - on leaving the carpark we spotted an Osprey that had just caught a lake fish for his families lunch. We watched and filmed as he perched on a pylon with the fish held firmly between his feet. Canada Day celebrations were held in the afternoon with a small parade on the camp site (mainly for the kids) lead by a Norwegian/Scottish piper. |
Tour - Glacier NP/Mount Revelstoke NP/Salmon Arm - An early start for our 3 day trip around the National Parks. The journey started in lovely sunshine which did not last too long. A black bear crossed the road just in front of us (this was a first bear for Joyce) luckily it could run fast otherwise the coach in front of us would have mowed it down. The weather over Glacier NP was COOL and very cloudy which rather obscured the mountains (but we had gained an hour as we had moved into a new time Zone - Pacific Time). Called into the visitor center and collected some hiking information for our next visit in August. Decided not to take the "scenic" drive up Mount Revelstoke as the visibility would negate the "scenic" part. As we continued west the weather improved (even got warmer) and we watched some Osprey flying over Shuswap Lake. Stopped for the night in a motel in Salmon Arm (on Shuswap Lake), the weather had improved sufficiently for a stroll around the lakefront that evening after dinner in a Pub with draft Microbrew (John & Wullie can't keep Linda & Joyce out of these sort of places).
Tour - Salmon Arm to Valemount - This was the least interesting part of the trip, passing by Kamloops - a largish town. Passed a few entrances to Wells Gray Provincial Park - a large park worth investigating if we had the time. Nearing Valemount (close to Jasper NP) the Cariboo mountains appear - later we pick up a brochure on Heli Hiking in the Cariboo Mountains. They helicopter you into some remote spot, which would take a few days to walk to, and take you on a guided hike of that area - sounds good but expensive! Stopped in a mediocre Motel- Linda & Joyce wanted to have dinner in yet another pub, but Wullie& John put their foot down, found a busy family restaurant and enjoyed! a mediocre meal.
Tour - Jasper NP/Lake Louise - Awoke to brilliant warm sunshine and after a hearty breakfast headed for Jasper NP. On the way we pass through Mount Robson Provincial Park. At over 13,000 feet Mount Robson is the highest mountain in the Canadian Rockies. Several people had warned us that it is a bonus if you see the top as it is often obscured by cloud, well luck was on our side and clear blue skies gave us terrific views (photo opportunities) of the mountain. Just prior to entering Jasper NP we lost an hour as we moved back to Mountain time. Drove up the scenic road to Mount Edith Cavell and viewed the Glacier, it was rather cool up there. Stopped at Athabasca Falls (Wullie thought they were disappointing) more like rapids through a canyon than falls. Now for the highlight of the trip, the drive on the Icefields Parkway! As we progressed through the park the weather changed dramatically! Before we reached the Icefields it was snowing heavily - two inches fell within an hour and temperatures of Zero degrees made travel slow (perhaps we should have come in Summer?). We had intended to stay out another night but because of the weather only stopped at Lake Louise to refuel and have something to eat (Microbrew good, food average), before continuing our journey home. Throughout our three days on the road we saw: black bear, elk, mountain goat, hoary marmot and deer.
The following day was taken at leisure (no snow) including a repeat of the pizza & pint lunch in Invermere (a lovely little town). Enjoyed a few beers in the evening with BBQ cooked on the open wood fire.
Moving to Calgary - Moved to Whispering Spruce campground on the outskirts of Calgary which we booked way back in January for the Stampede visit. Not the best RV site we have stayed on - (just like a large uneven field with full amenities), but had a shuttle service to the Stampede every day so we don't have to battle with the traffic. Had a very good journey via Kootenay and Banff NP's in sunny but cool weather. Arrived in the early afternoon which left plenty of time for a visit to the supermarket and other domestic chores. Had a quiet evening ready for the Stampede Parade in the morning.
Location - CalgaryPopulation 768,100. Formerly a small cow town now a thriving oil and ranching community and home of the World Famous Stampede since 1923 |
Stampede Opening Parade - Up early to catch the 7.15 a.m. bus to the Calgary Stampede Parade (they use school buses for the shuttle service, as the schools are on holiday). Unfortunately our bus driver made a wrong turn so we had to be dropped off at the end of the parade route but this turned out to be one of the best places to stand as it was less crowded. Marching bands from all over the world, colourful floats, and even dance bands which was looking for new members so they stopped in front of us and Linda was asked to be a member of a formation team (could it be because of her Sun hat?). Unfortunately before the formation could be setup, the rest of the parade caught up too fast so they had to move on. As you would expect there were lots of horses in the parade, which made for a lot of dung to be picked up by the "motorized hoovers" and the many "bucket & spade brigades" A hot and tiring but very enjoyable half day.
Stampede Saturday - Our first visit to the show ground on the 1.00 PM shuttle bus. Watched in awe as the youngsters enjoyed some of the more frightening rides. Watched the Calgary Stampede marching band perform on the steps of the SaddleDome (Calgary Flames ice hockey arena). Paid two visits inside the SaddleDome (very impressive stadium, wouldn't mind watching an ice hockey match here - but that would mean winter so maybe not?) to watch the heavy horse competition. Being Scots our favourites were the Clydesdales and they were well represented. Unfortunately we couldn't stay to the end as our shuttle bus awaits (later discovered a set of Clydesdales got the Silver medal). |
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The highlight of Wullies day was a s-t-r-e-t-c-h limo with a pickup truck bed welded on to the rear. The pickup bed had a fifth wheel type hitch to which a rather large horse box was connected. While looking around I struck up a conversation with a friend of the owner and was given the full story. Apparently there is a company in Dallas Texas (it had to be Texan?) which do these type of "unusual" conversions and the owner had this done last year to carry himself, some friends and of course the horses to the Stampede. All this was rather "larger than life" but was overshadowed by the owners next conversion which is to have a Jaccuzi fitted to the rear of a stretch limo? After much joyous laughter at the absurdity of it all I exchanged cards with my informant (Kevin Cox) who offered to give us any help he could while we wintered in Texas. John & Joyce treated us to a lovely dinner (Supper in Canadian) in the small town of Airdrie (no Coatbridge nearby). |
Stampede Sunday - Had a leisurely day in preparation for the evenings ChuckWagon races and musical extravaganza. Walked to the shuttle bus in brilliant sunshine, the best of the day. By the time the show started at 8.00 p.m. dark clouds started drifting towards the arena. The ChuckWagon races were very good and Linda chose the most winners. The highlight of the musical show opening for most people was the Canadian National Anthem sung by a three year old girl. This brought tears to lots of spectators eyes as she was rather cute. Now for the rest of the show, the clouds are really dark and not just above us. The first spot of rain fell during the opening appearance and got heavier and heavier accompanied by thunder and lightning. We had very good seats in the front, close to all the action but unfortunately in the open! They issued plastic poncho type raincovers to everyone but the downpour just increased in volume so even they were ineffective, meanwhile the show must go on even if the dancers and chorus are getting soaked to the skin (hey it is warm rain?). Finally, after just three acts the show had to be stopped as it was getting to be dangerous, with laser light effects all around being augmented by natures lightning!. The organizers would not announce the show was canceled until nearly midnight by which time we had left to catch our shuttle bus.
Stampede Monday - A quiet day after the storm of the night before although there were enough puddles around to remind us of that experience.
We telephoned the Stampede office to see if we could obtain a refund for the show (John & Joyce were returning to Ontario the next day). The committee were meeting at that time and would make an announcement later at which time our contact would call us back. True to his word he called back, but they would not offer a refund only tickets for rush seats on another night. (Rush seats are the small amount of seats they hold back each day for last minute bookings - you queue up early and when the gates open "rush" to get the best seat possible). Asked our contact why they didn't have weather insurance to cover such eventualities but it seems they hadn't heard of it here? He asked us to write an account of what happened and what we felt should have been done in terms of compensation etc. We accepted rush tickets for the Wednesday but John & Joyce had to go home. It just seemed to us that the Calgary Stampede is an International event which generates a lot of money for the local economy. To maintain and improve that status means certain responsibilities and expenses need to be taken on board, like reimbursing customers for not getting what they paid for.
The next day we said our fond farewells to our friends, re-stocked with supplies, done a few domestic chores before relaxing with a quiet pint.
Stampede Wednesday - Promises to be a busy day as we have rodeo tickets for the afternoon and ChuckWagon races and musical extravaganza in the evening. It's the hottest day in Calgary so far and our good, near the action, seats for the rodeo have no cover! We had to cover up to keep cool (thank goodness for our cowboy hats), a lot of water and soft drinks were consumed. We thoroughly enjoyed the Rodeo, watching cowboys being bucked off horses and bulls, roping steers etc. (just like Wullie used to watch in the STAR picture house in Crosshill as a kid). The qualifying rounds of the rodeo are held all week and then the finals are on the last day.
The finals of the Marching Bands were being held in the SaddleDome in the afternoon so we watched as much of that before the evening show started. We didn't join in the rush for seats, we stood in front of the huge stage with lots of others to watch the ChuckWagon races and musical show. This time Wullie chose the most winners of the races, and Linda felt he had cheated as he could remember who was good from before! It wasn't ideal standing for the whole show but at least it didn't rain this time, and we did see all of a very professional and energetic show, enjoyed the spectacular firework display at the end. One of the highlights of the show was the entry of the Calgary Stampede Marching band, who appeared every night, but this night had only a few minutes before won the Marching band contest. This contest is one round of the World championships so those youngsters were really on a high! A tiring but most enjoyable day.
The Calgary Stampede is well worth a visit and we wouldn't have missed it for anything, but now lets get some hiking done!
Moving into the Rockies - A none taxing 100 mile move to Green Acres Motel & RV Park, Dead Man's Flats (we wonder how this place got ti's name!) - elevation 4,100 feet, and not far from the lovely town of Canmore in Kananaskis country. Kananaskis is the portion of the Rocky Mountains outside the National Parks, which Albertans keep as secret as possible so they can have it all to themselves! Even if you are not a hiker the drive through Kananaskis is more scenic than most of the drives through the NP's. If you are a hiker then this is heaven particularly in midweek when most locals are working!
Situated very near to Trans Canada 1, but not near enough to hear the traffic noise. Dead Man's Flats consists of two motels, a gas station and not a lot more. This small, well situated and reasonably priced RV Park, was our home for the next hectic and enjoyable 10 days
Buller Pass - This 9.2 mile hike was our first for more than three weeks so we were delighted at how enjoyable it was from start to finish. The start of the outward hike was all up hill in deep forest with occasional views of the surrounding mountains. When we left the forest we had terrific views as we wandered through a large open meadow, covered in wildflowers, before ascending the final 168 vertical meters of scree to the top of the pass. A fantastic view of Ribbon Lake backdropped by the two peaks of Mount. Kidd. The wind was pretty strong so we took lunch in the shelter of a big rock before making our way very slowly down the loose scree to the safety of the meadow. On our return to the trailhead we chatted with a French Canadian couple who we had seen on our hike - nice people. They recommended a few other local hikes and a few possible watering holes for post hike refreshment!. They love glaciers so were taking a trip to Alaska in August (hoping the big biting flies are gone by then), to visit as many as possible. A beautiful hike to accustom the legs to the "hiking trails" once again. |
Bow river & Canmore - A domestic morning followed by a stroll along the nearby river, a tributary of the Bow. We saw a pair of mule deer on the riverbank but they vanished when we tried to get a closer look. Visited Canmore library for Internet access and tried out one of the recommended watering holes the "Rose & Crown". Linda went nuts over the Kilkenny on draught and made Wullie drink some more draught Microbrew. It should be noted at this point that there is a Microbrewery called "Big Rock" in Calgary which brews about a dozen beers of varying tastes and colours. To date we have tried Traditional (standard British type ale), Chinook Pale Ale, Canvasback (Light Ale), Warthog (halfway between Traditional & Canvasback) which are all excellent. Their McNally's Irish ale is also very good but rather potent. These are all "Real ales" and there are many other Microbreweries in Western Canada, no preservatives, Linda has yet to try- will keep you posted.
Burstall Pass - Whilst in Waterton Lakes NP we bought a hiking book entitled "Don't Waste Your time in the Canadian Rockies". This is the first PREMIER hike from that book and if the rest of the hikes are as good as this one it will be the best $18 we have spent.
Only a small section of this 9.2 mile hike was through woods and even then occasional views of mountain tops were available. We passed through two meadows, each at different elevations but both with wildflowers. On the final part of the ascent we encountered quite a bit of deep snow on the trail which made walking awkward at times. Many of the wildflowers were only just emerging from under the snow which made the hills bright with creams, yellows and bright red of the ever present/lovely Indian Paintbrush. The last stretch was steep but once again the reward was outstanding. A 360 degree view of a multitude of clear mountain peaks, some still covered in snow, against a bright blue sky. We wandered along various bumps & ridges enjoying the scenery from all angles before settling down to lunch in yet another restaurant with enchanting views. This is a very popular hike, it was getting busy as we descended, which neither of us will forget for a long time.
On arriving back in Canmore Linda stopped the truck when she heard the soft lilt of Irish airs calling from the Rose & Crown Pub. Two pints of draught Kilkenny later she stopped Wullie's tap (3 pints of Traditional) and hurried home for dinner. The end to a perfect day.
Grassi Lakes Loop - Before setting out on this short hike Linda made an appointment with the local (Scottish) doctor to get a years supply of prescription tablets. This very popular 4.2 km loop had great views of Canmore and the Bow valley. As we climbed Rundlestone steps the azure coloured Lower Grassi Lake came into view. We had lunch sitting on one of the many seats that surrounded the lake, before returning down the easier path. Lots of wild flowers, including many Rocky Mountain Lily's added interest to this short hike. Since Linda's doctors appointment was for 6.30 PM we stayed in Canmore for a roast beef and yorkshire pudding dinner in the Rose & Crown, washed down with a couple of pints.
Peter Lougheed Provincial Park - Since we are spending so much time driving into Kananaskis for hiking we thought we might try parking the RV in the area, but this means dry camping - no electric, no sewer etc. Before we commit we must be sure our huge RV will fit, so we drove to Kananaskis Lakes to look at the RV park. We were asked to select a pitch we thought would suit our needs and if it was not spoken for it was ours. We made our choice and booked for six days - our first experience of dry camping. During our stay we were to find out that we were wise to book ahead as this and all the other campsites/RV parks in the Kananaskis area are always full and overflowing at weekends. In fact, they have signs up by early Friday afternoon advising that ALL campgrounds are full and to use the overflow site, which is just like a large carpark.
Had a stroll by lower Kananaskis Lake before returning home.
Citadel Pass - For this 11.5 mile hike in Banff National Park we had to get the White Mountain Shuttle bus from Sunshine Village, to Sunshine Village ski lodge. Yet another outstanding hike from what is now our favorite Rockies hiking book. The shuttle bus transported us effortlessly above the tree line, to the wonderful views evident throughout the hike. Most of the hikes we have been on in the past have ascended on the outward journey, with all decent on the homeward journey, which is what we like - the hard work when the legs are fresh. This hike was different - up and down throughout the entire 11.5 miles, with some very steep sections, but the views were so spectacular that for most of the hike we did not notice the uphill part. We had lunch at Citadel Pass looking onto Citadel Peak, Fatigue Mt. and the mighty 11,845 ft. Mt. Assiniboine to name but a few. Linda counted 23 mountain peaks and that was only one range. The day was mostly hot and sunny but later in the afternoon the clouds started to appear and a few spots of rain fell just as we were getting on the bus. On the way down in the bus the driver pointed out the spot where a Pine Marten had been sunning itself as he came up the mountain, but we missed it - a pity as we haven't seen one of those yet.
C-Level Cirque/Lake Minnewanka Banff NP - The promise that this would be a very hot day was fulfilled. C-Level Cirque - a round trip of five miles was mostly amongst trees which had its advantages on a hot day like this. On reaching the summit we had great views of numerous mountains plus unfortunately Trans Canada 1 in the valley below. The occasional "crack" from the packed ice/snow added some excitement to the atmosphere. The Cirque has a small emerald green lake which is hidden amongst trees but a gem when you find it. Saw our first Pika (a small rabbit like beast?) on the final ascent. On completion we drove the short distance to Lake Minnewanka There is a boat trip you can take along the lake which is nestled attractively amongst the surrounding mountains. We parked and strolled about two miles around the lakeshore, took some lovely photographs of the lake before retracing our steps back to the truck - it was too hot to continue. We had our final sandwich in a cool bay where we got talking to a couple of holiday makers from England. Another good satisfying day.
Location - Boulton Creek Campsite -
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The pitches were so large we saw two large motorhomes, each with a towed car in one pitch. You can have up to two camping units in each pitch with a maximum of 8 people. Most of the 50 mile journey is on highway 40, the main road through the Kananaskis valley with mountains towering on either side of the road. This whole area had the promise of good hiking and during the following week that turned our to be true. Within the next couple of days we realised that our chosen pitch (complete with "wood firepit") was in the food path of a "Mule Deer" who passed though every evening on the way to his favorite patches of flowers. That was OK by us until one evening we watched him demolish a whole bunch of Wullies favorite flower - bright red Indian Paintbrush! .
Peter Lougheed Provincial Park is an extremely popular recreation area for the local population. We spent many very enjoyable days visiting and staying in an area we highly recommended. |
Kananaskis Lake Fire Lookout- Although the night had been quite chilly the morning was bright and sunny so we decided on the hike from the campsite to the nearby fire lookout. A steady climb through trees with an occasional view of the mountain ranges in the distance. By the time we reached the fire lookout we were tired and hot but the fantastic view of the upper and lower Kananaskis lakes with Mt's Foch and Sirrel as a back drop easily lifted our spirits. To the north we looked down the valley to Mt Kidd. As we looked in awe we wondered if we could better this view (slightly marred by the big black horsefly's operating in attack mode). We descended by a different path which was very steep in parts, but added different views and completed a circular hike. Watched a mother Grouse shepherding her chicks across the path in front of us - she refused to move out of our way until all the little ones were safely across. A Toad startled Wullie as it hopped across the path in front of us. When we got back to the RV we identified the species, it is supposed to be nocturnal, so what was it doing out during the day?
Major Truck Service - We had to take the truck in for its 30,000 mile service (not bad in 15 months) which we had arranged before leaving Canmore. As we departed the campsite we encountered a Moose grazing by the side of the road. If we had not been running late Linda would have had all the cameras out for a photo - but this one got away. Once again we had to take the 55km Spray Dorian gravel road to Canmore but wondered if this FORD Dealer would wash the truck when they had completed the C$500 service - no such luck so we still have a very dusty truck. Passed the time by walking along the Bow river in the opposite direction than before and found time for a WET lunch in the Rose & Crown before collecting the truck and returning home.
Barbecued on the open wood fire and played dominoes on the picnic table before the light faded.
Mount Indefatigable Outlier -A hike never to be forgotten. We know we have said wonderful things about previous hikes but this is the best so far. A strenuous total 2500 foot accent but every few hundred yards offered outstanding views which took away the pain. The first viewpoint gave us a close up view of both upper and lower Kananasksis lakes as well as a multitude of mountain peaks near and far. By the time we had hiked a continuous 1.5 miles uphill we were offered a REAL seat with a view of the entire lower lake plus more mountain peaks. We ate half our lunch, rested and chatted with other hikers before tackling the last section of this hike. A further 1.8 km and a gain of another 249 meters brought us to the top of the Mount Indefatigable Outlier. An indescribably beautiful view of so many peaks that it is hard to imagine. All we can say is - if you are a hiker and you find yourself in the Kananasksis area this is the hike to do. The downward journey although downhill was quite difficult as most of the last section was loose shale making footholds slippery. A truly outstanding hike, which although short can take all day as you stop and wonder on the way up and meander around at the top!!
Explore More Kananiskis Country - Travelled further east along Highway 40, we had traced the road outline when we were up Mt Indefatigable the previous day. Looking at the map it had the promise of being equally as scenic as the part we had already been on. Another bright clear sunny day made for a beautiful drive. We drove as far as Highway Junction (541 east - 940 south to Crowsnest Pass) before turning round and making for Cat Creek for a short easy walk to the waterfalls. Very pretty and well worthwhile. In the evening we had another BBQ on the open wood fire (another rest for Linda), and played cards and dominoes in the smoke (keeps the mosquito's away) of the fire.
Highwood Pass - At 7,200 feet this is the highest pass in the Canadian Rockies. The plan was to hike up and along Highwood Ridge but the guidebook did warn that the initial ascent was strenuous and difficult!. As we were nearing the end of the wooded area and encountering the steep and unstable scree, we looked up to see where the path went next, and looking down on us was this most beautiful Rocky Mountain Big Horn sheep. If only Linda had the energy to get out the camera what a lovely picture it would have been, standing on the rocks in its natural environment. Maybe another time! We nearly made it to the top but the going got more difficult and dangerous (particularly as this was the descent route as well!) we decided discretion was the better part of valour and retraced our steps to the lower elevations. We decided to continue on the path we had left and make for Little Highwood Pass. What a good decision this turned out to be - the path through the valley was a mass of wildflowers. All the colours of paintbrush imaginable (like a Nail Varnish/Lipstick colour chart) plus so many other varieties of flowers it took us forever to reach the pass. We stopped for lunch by a stream while looking over this mass of colour. We climbed to a viewpoint and again we were in awe at the surrounding views. If we had had more time we would have climbed up Pocaterra ridge to the Great Western Divide as we're sure the views from the top would have been something else. The Kananaskis guidebook does not do this hike justice. If we come back to this area this hike will be near the top of our list to do, and complete although it is prime Grizzly terrain.
Charging Batteries in Canmore - A warm and sunny morning - we bade our fond farewell's to Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, remembering with fondness the mule deer that crossed our pitch in search of his favorite supper - Indian Paintbrush, the squirrels that would drop cones on our roof and the Clark's Nutcracker that were so tame on some pitches that they ate out of your hand. We made for a one night stop in the 'quite expensive' Restwell RV Park, Canmore to recharge the RV batteries, clean holding tanks and prepare for the move to Lake Louise NP. The mountains along highway 40 were so clear and beautiful it was a difficult decision to leave such a wonderful area.
Arrived at Canmore by 11.30 a.m. Went to the library at 4.0 p.m. for our pre-arranged hour on the Internet, then home to change and a stroll to The Drake Inn for supper. The temperature reached 93 degrees and had not dropped below 73 by the time we went to bed.
Miles travelled this month: 2,169
Accumulative miles: 29,769
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