September 2001 |
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Fairplay, el. 9,953 ft. - A small town situated in " South Park" a large high altitude valley at the junction of Highways 285 and 9, 17 miles south of Breckenridge. The 9,000 square mile basin of South Park is surrounded by numerous majestic peaks. Good hunting and fertile land attracted Ute, Cheyenne, Arapaho and Comanche Indians to become the first residents of the valley. In the 16th and 17th centuries the French and Spanish established outposts so they could trade with the Indians. In 1859 gold was discovered along the Platte River and this peaceful valley was changed overnight as hordes of men made there way across the mountains to stake their claim. Fairplay was named by gold prospectors in 1859, who were lured to the area by promises of being able to to lodge a claim at nearby Tarryall. When they arrived in Tarryall they found it was all tied up by land grabbers etc. so they nicknamed it "Graball". They set up a new camp at the junction of Beaver Creek and the South Platte river, named it "FairPlay" and vowed to offer all new prospectors just that. Only Fairplay, Como and Alma were diversified and big enough to survive and flourish. Over the next 100 years other minerals such as Silver, Zinc and the concentrates were discovered. Only a few working mines survive today but the there is lots of evidence of past mining activity.
South Park City Museum - Thirty five buildings have been brought from the valley, and thousands of items have been donated, to make this re-constructed mining town, South Park City Museum, well worth a visit. We spent a couple of hours wandering through these original buildings, learning about their history, climbed onto a 1914 narrow gauge train, visited a pioneers doctor's office which had all kinds of surgical equipment on display, making us thankful for modern medicine and equipment. This is one of the better reconstructed historical areas we have visited.
Breckenridge - Scenic Hwy. 9 travels 17 miles through 13 & 14,000 ft. peaks to the very popular ski resort of Breckenridge, which was one of Colorado's richest gold mining areas in the late 1800's. The town not only boasts lots of historic buildings but also has some lovely shops to browse through, just what the tourists like. We visited during Labor Day (Holiday) weekend and were pleasantly surprised to find that the carpark fee had been removed for the holiday weekend. (Would they do this at home? or would they increase the cost?) We spent time looking around the excellent craft stalls, Linda wishing she had space to house some of the nice artifacts, and Wullie pleased she didn't. The sale of little yellow ducks for the afternoon river race was already underway. The little ducks were just like the ones that sailed past our garden annually in Glenfarg, as they made their way down river to the finishing post. Things are the same the world over! When the afternoon rain started it was time to take cover, and where better than the Breckenridge Microbrewery that served good food and a nice brew. Lots of televisions were showing the College Football (not soccer), match between Colorado State and Colorado. The young couple sitting next to us supported opposing teams. The young lady's favourites, Colorado, had much the better of the game. The young man tried hard to appear as if he could accept it gracefully? (His face gave him away) This reminded us of our younger days when Scotland thumped England at football and Linda got quite huffy?.
Square Top Lakes, 11,600 to 12,250 ft.- Twenty four miles north of Fairplay on Highway 285 is another Colorado Scenic Byway - County Road 62 which goes from Grant, across Guanella Pass to I-70 at Georgetown. Although most of the surface is dirt and in parts rough, it certainly is not lacking in scenic value with 14,000+ peaks and unlimited views throughout. Our hike started at the very popular 11,600 ft. Guanella Pass. We arrived just after 8 a.m. and already the parking area was overflowing. This is a very easy hike as the elevation gain is quite gradual. Not a tree in sight so the views were unobstructed from start to finish. The lower lake is where most families stop, but we continued to the second lake which is nestled beneath Square Top mountain. Still feeling as if the legs had not really been stretched we decided to tackle Square Top Mountain at 13,600 ft., but the wind was very strong and quite cold so we decided to terminate after gaining about 300 feet. We made our way back to the top lake and with some difficulty finally found a sheltered place to lunch. We watched two fishermen make a good catch before heading back to the trailhead. With quite a few different trails starting from here, even more vehicles were now parked on this beautifully sunny, but cool day.
Mts. Democrat, Lincoln & Bross - Today we captured a 14teener the Colorado equivalent of a Scottish Munro (a mountain over 14,000 feet). The trailhead at Kite Lake is accessed from Hwy. 9 between Fairplay & Breckenridge. The final part of the access road is quite rough but quite a few passenger cars had made it. This hike is extremely popular as it offers the opportunity of "capturing" three 14teeners in one day comfortably. We had hummed & hawed about hiking up a 14,000 ft. mountain as we do hikes for pleasure rather than for trophy hunting, but decided since we were in Colorado amongst all these huge peaks we should probably go for it?
When we arrived at the trailhead at Kite Lake (11,600 ft.) the carpark was already overflowing with enthusiastic hikers at 9.00 a.m.
The entire upward trail to Mount Democrat was very rough, steep and busy which meant the only time we could enjoy the views was when we were catching our breath which happened quite often. There were too many people on this trail, some with dogs not leashed which scurried around our feet making the steep slippery trail even less enjoyable. After reaching a ridge between two of the peaks we opted for a rock scramble of 400 vertical feet as opposed to more loose rock/gravel slope. After the rock scramble the remaining 200 feet of ascent was fairly easy on rough rock. The views from the top were certainly breathtaking and while we ate lunch we tried to decipher which peak was which. Most of the people on top of Mt. Democrat (14,148 ft.) were collectors of 14teeners and spoke about the others they had captured? We descended on the loose rock/gravel slope rather than risk a twisted ankle on the rock scramble., On the way down we passed a woman who was not enjoying the downward trip. She was having such problems with the steep decent that she was sliding down on her behind, and wailing while her husband sat at a distance waiting for her. When we reached her she told us that she really should not be doing this as she had only recently undergone foot surgery? She was blocking the path and as we started a careful detour around her the husband released one of their dogs! When the dog arrived on the scene it seemed to think we were a threat to it's mistress, so it showed its teeth & growled making for a more difficult detour. The real danger to it's mistress was it's mistress herself and her idiot husband. We continued our way down glancing up now and again to see if she was O.K. When we reached the husband he was explaining to another hiker how once she got down they were off to capture the other two 14teeners? We kept looking back to monitor her progress but lost sight of her, we hope she made it down safely? and hope we never meet them again while hiking down a mountain! We did not accept the opportunity of capturing the other two 14teeners, just descended to the truck. During the descent we were treated to the sight of a convoy of 4-wheel drives on the top of Mt. Lincoln - is that the way to do it?
If you have gained the impression that we did not enjoy this hike you would be correct. It is our own fault for making the "bragging rights choice" instead of following our normal selection process, a mistake we will not repeat. Many of the hikes we have undertaken in Colorado and elsewhere were more rewarding, the going easier and the views equally wonderful or better.
Local Weather Forecast - As we had been having a problem downloading our EMail. to Outlook Express for the past week, and our RV park did not have good Internet facilities, Linda decided to visit the library to sort things out before our move. During a conversation with the librarian she was informed that a storm was brewing over the mountains, and we were in for a cold wet night. Local knowledge turn out to be accurate, within an hour the temperature had dropped dramatically accompanied by very strong winds and heavy rain. The forecast for night was a chill factor of below freezing and SNOW on high grounds, at 9,953 that must mean us . As we were moving the following day, Wullie decided to do all the outside chores before the rain turned to snow. A good move, as we woke to a low of 32F, with a chill factor of zero, and a light splattering of snow covering the truck, roof tops and mountains.
On this clear crisp morning the sky was a lovely deep blue making the snow covered mountains surrounding Highway 285 very picturesque. We stopped at Boreas Pass for photographs before descending to Loveland. By the time we reached our RV park we had descended over 5,000 feet and the temperature had doubled to 65 degrees. It was nice to feel the heat in the old bones again.
Our niece Lynn from Glasgow was due to arrive on Wednesday 12th September so we had made a reservation for eight days. This would allow her to get over jet-lag before seeing some of the beautiful Rockies on our way to California.
The lady in the RV next to us was originally from Ayrshire, so before we could set up she had struck up a conversation with Wullie. Although she had been living in America for over 40 years, the conversation with a fellow Scot brought back the accent. She and her family had come from Montana for the next day's Celtic Festival at Estes Park.
Horsetooth Mountain Park - Horsetooth Rock was described in our hiking book as a moderate 6 mile loop trail with terrific views from the top. The book did not tell about the $6 fee to park the truck - expensive for a hike?
It was evident right from the start that today's hike was going to be a hot one, which is something we have not been used to for quite some time. Not a cloud in the bluest sky we have had in a long time. As the trail ascends so the views of Rocky Mountain National Park open up, especially 14,256 Long's Peak. It and the other peaks still covered with the snow that fell a couple of days earlier. It is only the last 100 feet of gain that are a little difficult under foot, but when you make it to the top of Horsetooth Rock the views are very good. More and more snow covered peaks are visible, Horsetooth Reservoir, Loveland, and the Eastern Plains of Colorado. Another great place to lunch before continuing on the loop trail back to the truck. By the time we reached the truck the temperature had reached the high 80's, so we were pleased we had made an early start.
Tuesday, September 11, 2001 - After breakfast Linda decided to inspect the site laundry with a view to utilising the facilities later that morning. Wullie turned the TV on to find out what time the European Champions League soccer game would be on ESPN? Every channel was showing what looked like a Steven Spielberg film, with jetliners flying into skyscrapers? How long I stood there trying to sort out what had happened I don't know? but when Linda returned from the laundry I was still standing. The laundry never did get done that day and neither did much else. It soon became obvious that Lynn would not be arriving the next day if at all. How could anyone have protected against these maniacs? Sure the experts appeared after a few days saying they warned about the possibility of hijacking but nobody warned of suicide pilots? The USA suffered the direct effect of this terrible act but the tremor was felt all around the world. Travel and freedom of movement will be very different for at least the next generation. As guests of the American people we were very impressed with the restraint and compassion shown by them and their government. We know that Americans will never forget this heinous crime, we just hope the rest of the civilised world does not forget either. There has been a large upsurge in Nationalism here with K-Mart and other stores selling millions of flags and emblems but it has not been an overly aggressive display more of a defiant determined display. Some friends & relations back home wondered if we would be returning home, obviously believing we would be safer there. However we haven't felt unsafe here at all which fits the mood of the country i.e. very little panic. In some ways to scurry home (would Edinburgh be safer than Loveland, Colorado?) would seem discourteous to our hosts and there is still so much to see.
Lynn's flight was canceled and they offered a full refund of the fare. She decided that even if she could get a flight at a later date, she would be unable to enjoy a holiday she had looked forward to for so long.
We had only made one reservation and that was Kremmling, so we would keep that, but our planned route to California taking in Moab, Bryce NP and Las Vegas could now be modified.
We did take the "Ford Tough" truck into Loveland for it's 60,000 mile service, and were told we needed new front brakes before we tackled anymore mountain passes. A total cost of $627 would normally have invoked some sort of muttering but the events of the past few days put it into it's proper perspective.
Loveland to Kremmling - Once again we had a choice of two routes. We had already travelled the 120 mile trip through Rocky Mountain NP, so we decided on another scenic byway via Fort Collins, Walden then Kremmling, a distance of 180 gorgeous miles. As we made our way through the deep narrow canyon that winds alongside the Poudre River we were blessed with lovely sunshine. This enhanced the autumn colours of the Aspen trees as they swayed in the light wind, with spectacular rock formations looming above. This all changed when we started our ascent to the 10,276 ft. Cameron Pass. The clouds grew darker and by the time we reached the summit the temperature had dropped to 43 degrees accompanied by a short hail storm lasting just long enough to cancel our planned photo stop. Our descent brought back the sun so we could enjoy the remaining miles to Walden. Highways 14 and 40 beyond Walden to Kremmling are not listed as scenic byways, but like most Colorado roads they are still beautiful with wide meadows and 13,000 ft. peaks in the distance. Another good route choice.
Elliot Ridge - With little time left among these wonderful mountains we were up and out before the frost had melted, headed for Elliot Ridge. To reach the trailhead we had to ascend about 3,000 ft. on 12 miles of forest roads. As we ascended so the temperature decreased and the clouds thickened. By the time we reached the trailhead the wind brought not only more clouds but snow as well. Our hike was to take us onto a 12,000+ ridge, not wise when clothed in shorts. We got back into the truck and left the tough camping families that were huddled around their campfires to the elements, and returned to the warmth of the RV.
Kremmling to Chatfield State Park - The clouds were sitting on top of the mountains and the rain continued where it left off yesterday, so whatever route we took we knew views would be non-existent today. Scenic Highway 40 took us through Granby, and up the 11,315 ft. Berthoud Pass. With ongoing roadworks and possible delays of 30 minutes on the Pass we had hoped it would clear just long enough for us to see some of the views while waiting for the 'flagger' to give us the all clear to move on. No such luck - for our 20 minutes the cloud really came in and brought SNOW with it. Quite nice for us to look out on from the warmth of the truck, but the Flagger didn't even have a shelter to stand under. As we were first in the traffic line we offered him shelter under the nose of the RV, but he declined saying that he was used to it. As we left the top of the pass and made our way towards I -70 the snow ceased, and by the time we arrived in Chatfield the sun started to shine. What a pity it waited so long!.
Chatfield State Park - has a large reservoir which before last weeks disaster would have been busy with boaters, but there is now an enforced ban on all watersport on lakes and reservoirs. With that restriction we were wrong in the assumption that there would be plenty of spaces as we only had the choice of about four, all others were already taken. Being so near to Denver, this is a very popular State Park with local people.
Costco opticians told us that although they had received their first delivery of spectacles since the tragedy, Linda's lens had a 15 day back-order. She was offered a full refund or they would post the glasses to us when they came in. With this lifestyle a delay like this can cause problems, especially if you have future plans that cannot be changed. They are going to post them on and any problems will be sorted out by our nearest Costco at that time.
With limited shops during the next week we stocked up with supplies, especially beer? had a meal in Applebys Family Restaurant before heading back to the RV for an early night as we had quite a long journey ahead the next day.
Great Sand Dunes NM - These are the tallest sand dunes in North America and cover about 39 square miles.
The dunes were created by northeast winds blowing across the San Luis valley. Sand carried by the winds were deposited at the foot of the high Sangre De Christo mountains. Summer temperatures reach 100 F (sand Temperature 140 F) and in winter temperatures of 40 below have been recorded, yet some plants & small rodents survive & live in this environment.
We spent quite a few hours climbing up and down numerous dunes, some more difficult than others, until we finally reached the 750 ft. highest dune. We managed to eat half our lunch before the wind came causing us to eat the rest of our SANDwiches while making our descent. Halfway down we met a "barefoot" traveler who obviously? had not read the park leaflet about sand temperature. He was hopping about on the hot sand and remarked as we passed "it was fine when I started". Not only had he not read the park information he had left his shoes with his wife quite a way back?
This is another unique National Monument well worth a visit and although San Luis State Park only has Electric Hook-Ups the views are magnificent.
San Luis Lakes, Colorado to Mexican Hat, Utah - The 300+ mile drive took us back through Durango, where we stopped so Wullie could stock up with enough Colorado beer to last him until our arrival in California, through Cortez and into Utah. The more miles that went on the clock so the degrees on the thermometer increased. Bright rock formation and desert replaced mountains, trees and autumn colours. We reached Valle's trading Post & RV Park in Mexican Hat at 6p.m. it was still in the high 80's with very low humidity, something we have not experienced for quite a few months.
Mexican Hat - Situated by the San Juan River the town takes it's name from a prominent rock formation which legend says is a person wearing a Sombrero? You have to imagine the Sombrero is upside down but the person isn't? The sandstone cliff face above the San Juan river has a very interesting pattern etched by the wind & rain and is likened to a " Navajo Rug". Mexican Hat borders the Navaho Reservation, has a couple of small motel's and this small neat and reasonably priced RV Park. It is centrally situated for all the places we intend to visit during our three day stay.
Natural Bridges NM - Our route to Natural Bridges NM was via Highway 261,
a very interesting scenic road. Along the road there are large warning signs advising about the three mile 'Moki Dugway' stretch of gravel road which ascends the mesa with 10% grades and 5 mph bends. Surprisingly enough it is NOT recommended for large vehicles or RV's. This two way road zig-zags to the top of the Mesa with wonderful views of the Valley of the Gods and Monument Valley, a sheer delight. The
Natural Bridges have been created by a continuous flow of water, unlike Arches that are created by weather erosion.
A nine mile scenic drive includes overlooks and trailheads for all three natural bridges. We stopped at all three viewpoints but as the temperature was in the high 80's, we only completed the short, easy accessible hike to Owachomo Bridge.
On our return journey home, when we reached the top of Moki Dugway we took a five mile drive on the Mulley Point Road. The spectacular views reminded us of Canyonlands NP as we looked into a deep gorge which the San Juan river had carved. Monument Valley was visible in the background.
The sun favored our descent of Moki Dugway, so it was a stop and start journey while Linda put the video and still camera's to work.
Valley of the Gods - This 17 mile drive on dirt roads accesses a smaller and less visited version of Monument Valley, giving plenty of opportunities to stop without causing traffic problems. With the sun quite low in the sky the colour & shape of these sandstone rock formations was truly magnificent. Thank goodness we came well prepared with charged batteries and plenty of film. We arrived home well after 6 p.m. and it was still in the high 80's, just the right temperature for Wullie to have a couple of those Colorado beers while creating a masterpiece on the BBQ. Sometimes this retirement has its discomforts?
Monument Valley - Established in 1958 as The first Navajo Tribal Park.
Over 400,000 people every year drive the dirt roads made famous by films like Stagecoach and How The West Was Won, Like John Wayne and other famous cowboys they admire the wonderful scenery. One of the viewpoints has even been named after the Director, John Ford.
We drove the 17 mile dirt road which winds through and round magnificent mesas and buttes that have been created by millions of years of natural erosion. The still and video camera's were busy once again taking shots of the bright red and orange sandstone formations against the bright blue sky. When we came to John Ford Point which had an outstanding view across the valley, Linda stood where the camera team would have stood, the only difference being, they filmed cowboys on horseback riding across the valley floor, not tourists in cars and jeeps. The dust trails left behind by the trucks was very realistic, just ask the tourists in the back of the open trucks. We would just have to imagine John Wayne was in our film when we watched it. Some Navajo still live in Monument Valley and as you drive the one-way system watch out for them as one-way does not apply to the residents.
On the way out we stopped at some Navajo craft stalls, and Linda bought a lovely pair of handmade Navajo earrings, just what she had been looking for! On our return journey we detoured off the highway for a few hundred yards to look at what appeared to be a grey lake? visible from our RV park. It was an expanse of grey stone aggregate spread over a fair sized area. As we theorised over what lay underneath a pick-up pulled alongside. After exchanging greetings with the Navajo occupants we finally asked what the story was? It seems there used to be a few Uranium mines on the Navajo reservation and when they became inactive they were covered over for health & safety reasons. One of the guys in the pick-up had a horse riding business and asked us to promise that the next time we visited Monument Valley we would take a ride on his horses. It would be a great way to see all the Mesa's & Buttes much closer up as the horses go where vehicles are not allowed.
Goose Neck State Park - Just 9 miles from Mexican Hat is a very impressive sight. The San Juan River "goosenecks" through a 1,000 feet chasm that meanders for more than five miles while travelling only one linear mile. The overall views of Monument Valley, the Navajo Rug and surrounding area are also outstanding which is probably why a lot of people visit here in the evening. Many of the people we spoke to were parking their RV's there for the night, thus enjoying Sunset & Sunrise.
Mexican Hat, UTAH to Kingman, ARIZONA - Hwy. 160, Hwy. 89 and I-40 took us the 345 miles to Kingman. No mountain passes, no sharp bends, just brilliant sunshine.
We just could not pass the opportunity of visiting another National Monument, so we took an 18 mile detour off Hwy. 160 to the Navajo National Monument. This NM has some of the largest and best preserved Anasazi cliff dwellings that date back to around 1250 A.D. We took the short trail to the viewpoint over the cliff dwellings, took some pictures before continuing on our way.
Once back on Hwy. 160 we came across another point of interest at Black Mesa where the Navajo mine coal for their Power Station at Lake Powell. Once mined it is put onto a large conveyor belt that crosses the highway, loads the coal into wagons which are then transported by rail to Lake Powell. Some setup on the Navajo Reservation.
When we arrived at Blake Ranch RV Park it was a COOL 99 degrees, and only when we booked in did we realise that we had arrived an hour earlier than expected - we had forgotten about the time change at the Arizona border.
Kingman, AZ to Bakersfield, CA - The temperature ranged between 70 and 102 degrees as we made our way across the Arizona and Californian deserts. We only had one stop for lunch and driver change during the 346 mile journey. Luckily for us Bakersfield was having a drop in temperature - when we arrived it was a mere 86 degrees, so quite bearable.
Bakersfield to Pismo Beach - After miles and miles of Interstate driving we chose Highway 58, the alternative quieter,shorter, winding route that took us up to a 3,256 ft. summit and across the San Andreas Fault. Had it not been so hazy we would have enjoyed great views of the mountains & valleys. Fortunately the road was really quiet as some of the hairpin bends would have been a problem had there been lots of on-coming traffic. Now we know why they do not recommend this route for long vehicles. It eventually took us to Hwy. 101 at San Luis Obispo and to the Pacific coast. Surfers riding big white waves, people leisurely wandering along miles of golden sands, children running in and out of the water, trying to avoid the waves. There's something very nice about the seaside!
NEXT MONTH: California - Pismo Beach, Imperial Beach (San Diego) , Long Beach, Disneyworld, Universal Studios - LA. Relax for a few days in Corona before heading to somewhere in Arizona
Miles travelled this month: 3,118
Accumulative miles: 60,956
Interesting Hyperlinks:
Great Sand Dunes National Monument
Natural Bridges National Monument
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