September 2003 |
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Leavenworth continued........
Spider Meadows - This 12.5 mile hike ascending 1700 feet was recommended to us by the temporary fire lookout we met when hiking up to his "eyrie" in the sky. The first 5.3 miles through dense forest with few views and a dusty trail was so disappointing we made record time. When we finally reached Spider Meadows it begun to seem more worthwhile. The basin views were breathtaking, with Phelps Ridge, Red Mountain and Spider Glacier forming the sides. The wildflowers were still good this late in the year but in July & August would have been majestic. We chatted to a couple of backpackers who had spent a few nights camped beneath Spider glacier, regaling us with tales of the exceptional views available there. We did not venture that far as time was against us but maybe next time? We enjoyed lunch by babbling Phelps Creek before continuing into more meadows at the end of the valley beneath Dumbbell mountain, providing yet more photo opportunities. The 5.3 miles from the edge of Spider Meadow back to the trailhead was still dry & dusty with hardly any views and we surprised ourselves by beating the record we set on the way in. En route we saw deer and a coyote, the first wildlife we've seen for a little while.
Ingalls Lake - . To reach this 9 mile hike (el. gain 2600 feet) meant a 130 mile round trip for the truck (that's a lot of petrol, just as well it's not UK taxed!) but it was worth every penny. On the way to the trailhead we had to stop for ranchers on horseback rounding up a herd of cattle. The dust storm kicked up by the cattle and horses was an early warning that something was going on up ahead. A true western scene, ala Rawhide, to start the day off. Wullie wanted to get out and help, as he was wearing his western hat, but they had no spare horses or saddles! The scenic trailhead, nestled below Esmerelda Peaks, was at the end of a good gravel road. The chemical toilets were checked out by Wullie and found to be spotless and odor free (before & after his visit?). The first steep half mile followed Fortune Creek which we left to enter a short section of forest. We emerged from the forest to outstanding views which were continuous for the next four wonderful miles as the trail ascended gradually. As we neared the pass Wullie gave out a screech of delight, so unlike him, that Linda was quite alarmed. However when she looked in the direction Wullie was pointing she too could see the top of Mount Rainier breaking through the cloud. It seemed near enough to touch, quite breathtaking! The views from the top of Ingalls pass including MT. Stuart were also exceptional, even although we were on the wrong side of Stuart for the Glaciers. It seems some Scots had been around this way in the past what with MT. Stuart & Ingalls Pass/Lake? From the pass we followed the rim of the basin in search of Ingalls Lake which was situated on the other side . The picture of the lake in our guide book indicated that the lake provided a good reflection of MT. Stuart, but it was nowhere to be seen. Slightly disappointed we participated in lunch while enjoying the terrific views. Fed and watered Wullie, in a burst of renewed enthusiasm, decided to explore further as the lake must be somewhere near here. Looking up Ingalls Peak he followed a faint trail that led to the path we had been seeking, and there it was, hidden in a basin. Meanwhile, although Linda had previously decided against hiking further, she started making her way up the steep trail, and as she neared the top Wullie was coming to fetch her so she could share this awesome sight. We found an ideal picnic spot, pity we had already eaten, but sat for a while soaking up this gem. Took many photo's of the mountain encircled lake with both versions of MT. Stuart included (reflection & backdrop). We descended back down to the rucksacks we had left below. During the return around the rim we met a couple of backpackers from Leavenworth and spent quite a while chatting. They were enjoying the peace and tranquillity of these mountains for another day or two, while we had to make our view filled descent back to the trailhead and the long drive home. Although this was a long day we enjoyed every minute as this is definitely our best hike in the area. Yet again we left the best to the last.
Lower Grand Coulee/Dry Falls - Our first cool day for weeks so we decided on a scenic drive out towards the Grand Coulee Dam area. 
Unbeknown to us it would be raining out that way. By the time we reached Coulee City the clouds were sitting on the roof of the truck although the rain wasn't particularly heavy. We ate our lunch in the truck overlooking the south end of Banks Lake. Our return journey was along the Lower Coulee where we stopped at a viewpoint above Dry Falls.
A coulee is a geological term, meaning a ravine or deep gully, usually dry, which has been cut by water. Successive floods during the ice age carved & shaped the coulee's of the Columbia Plateau. Evidence suggests that one of the last floods had waters over 800 feet high. Stopped at Lincoln Rock state park for a good view over the Columbia before returning to a sunny but still cool Leavenworth.
Leavenworth - We always wait until the last moment to visit places on the door step, and today was no exception. With cloud and rain around today we nearly left it too late. Thankfully it stayed dry as we took to the streets of Leavenworth, after Linda kept her hair appointment. We remembered a lot of the shops from our previous visit in 1998 so knew what to expect. We took advantage of most of the photo opportunities presented by the Bavarian themed town before visiting the local Microbrewery where we enjoyed an oven fired pizza (these are always a good at a Microbrewery) washed down with a jug of Dead Guy Ale at Linda's request.
Move to Grand Coulee
A trip of less than 100 miles took us alongside scenic Banks Lake into Grand Coulee our stop for one night so we could visit the famous dam. We found a small RV site on the shore of Banks Lake just a few miles from the dam. Banks Lake is a 31 mile long reservoir filled by the Bureau of Reclamation in the 50's to provide water for irrigation of the Columbia Basin. After 13 years of political wrangling Franklin D Roosevelt authorized $60 million to get the dam started in 1933. It took until 1942 to complete the project, changing the shape of the Columbia river, creating towns that never existed before and providing thousands of people with work in the middle of the depression. This and other projects, Hoover Dam for instance, are evidence of a forward thinking government providing funds for projects, during the depression. No doubt there are some arguments about exploitation of labour, low wages, round the clock shifts, because people were desperate for work during the depression but at least this was a worthwhile project. Roosevelt's administration should be praised for their foresight and the workforce honored for their labour, as this project paid off in a big way and is still doing so today. The dam fulfills 3 functions: irrigation, flood control and power generation. Although the latter was not foreseen as a primary function at inception it has a capacity of 6,800 Megawatts making it the largest hydro-electric producer in the USA. Water in Lake Roosevelt (situated behind the dam) is raised 280 feet up a hillside to fill Banks Lake reservoir satisfying the irrigation needs of more than 500,000 acres of farmland. Lake Roosevelt itself is 151 miles long, has a shoreline of 660 miles and is the key element of the dams flood control function. Lake Roosevelt & Banks lake are both open for public recreational use, enjoyed by more than a million visitors each year.
We visited Crown Point State Park for the best view of the dam in its entirety, then attended the visitor center to watch a film on the great flood which started millions of years ago in the area we are moving to next - Missoula in Montana. We returned to the dam in the evening for the free 35 minute laser light show which tells the story of the mighty Columbia and how it's awesome power was harnessed to provide multiple benefits to mankind. The laser light show uses the surface of the Dam as it's giant screen, providing images around 300 feet high. The narrator for the show is the mighty Columbia river describing the events that carved the Grand Coulee, the building of an immense dam to restrain its rushing waters and the use of that water to reclaim a desert. This has got to be the most impressive free laser light show in the world.
Grand Coulee, Washington to St. Ignatius, Montana
We picked up Interstate 90 at Spokane which took us across the narrow part of Idaho, past Coeur d'Alene lake, up to the 4,700 feet Lookout Pass and into Montana.
A slow descent took us to our point of exit at St. Regis a small tourist spot with the main attractions - casinos. From here our route took us along the winding Clark Fork and Flathead rivers before arriving at the historic St. Ignatius (el 2,950 ft.) situated in the beautiful Mission valley. This small town has a "Mission" established in 1854 by Jesuit Missionaries at the request of the native American people of the area. The remarkable murals on the mission roof & walls were painted by Br. J. Carignano (the cook) at the turn of the century. If he cooked as as well as he painted it would have been an experience to eat there! The mission was declared a National Historic Site in 1973. The reason for visiting this area was a couple of National Wildlife Refuge's and the popular and very scenic Flathead Lake area.
We arrived to cool wet weather which felt almost sub zero after months of very hot weather. New snow covered the dark peaks of the Mission Range that loomed over the park. Much of the mountains and forests were still out of bounds due to previous forest fires and the still high risk of future fires.
We called into the tourist office at St. Regis and as usual were given a warm welcome into the state and some useful information for our visit and some humorous information we thought we should share.
Montana State
Population: 902,195
Size: 147,138 sq. miles (4th largest)
Indian Population: 11 Tribes, 7 reservations, approx. 6% of state population (51,500)
Highest Point: Granite Peak: 12,799'
Average rainfall: 15"
Average Temp. Jan. 28 degrees - July 84 degrees
Population Per square mile:
896 catchable trout
18 cows
6 people
3.3 deer
3 sheep
1.4 elk
1.2 pigs
National Bison Range - This 18,500 acre range was once called "Land of the Shining Mountains" by the Native Americans and is well worth visiting, not only for the wildlife, but the outstanding scenery throughout the length of the loop road. On our two visits, one at sunset and the other at sunrise, we saw nearly all of the different varieties of wildlife on offer at this time of year. We called in at the visitor center, watched a short film on the history of the wild bison before setting off on the self paced very scenic 13 mile drive around the refuge. The road is very steep and winding in places and reaches its zenith at 4700 feet. The views from this point were so clear across the mission valley to the Mission range and west to the Bitterroots. Bison crossed in front of the truck, herds of Mule deer and few white tailed deer munched away amongst the trees. Pronghorn Antelope grazed on the grassland, a lonesome coyote loped along looking for supper. There were numerous Kestrels hovering looking for a meal, one lucky bird was sitting by the side of the road eating his meal and we got a good photo before he spotted us and flew off with his prey. The late afternoon drive was the best time to see the wildlife, but it takes such a long time to drive we had a late supper ourselves. On our morning visit we saw mostly the same animals but in smaller quantities but the highlight was spotting a Bull Elk, a very handsome guy!
Mission Valley - We were sited about 30 miles from Flathead Lake, the largest natural freshwater lake west of the Mississippi amid the proud cultural heritage of the Flathead Indian Reservation. Flathead Lake is the last remnant of Glacier Lake Missoula and source of Glacier Ice Age Floods, which carved out the Grand Coulee. We drove the entire lakeside road calling into Big Fork State park for our lunch stop, quite a few warblers around and beautiful views up the lake and across the mountains. Since our day pass allowed us to visit multiple State Parks in a day we called into Finley Point State Park on the south end of the lake. Today was warm and very clear making for a most enjoyable & scenic day out.
Missoula/Metcalf NWR - Did some essential shopping in Missoula, before traveling 25 miles to Metcalf NWR, nestled in the shadow of the Bitterroot Mountains which divide Idaho & Montana. Took a short hike to a picnic area on the banks of the Bitterroot river - Kingfishers, Flycatchers and a lonesome Killdeer were seeking lunch on the river. Strolled through the forest but only managed to spot a few Downy Woodpeckers interested in whatever food was on offer. Birds of prey were also soaring above but as usual we had great difficulty in identifying them. On the way home we had a meal in 4 B's, a famous Montana family restaurant renowned for its tomato soup (excellent) and meatloaf (very good).
St. Ignatius to Big Timber
Thick cloud hung over the mountain tops for the first half of our 300 mile journey. When it started to clear the mighty Rocky Mountains came into view, all the high peaks had a light dusting of snow which had fallen during the past week.
Our resting place for the next five days was a small friendly campsite with two central ponds that could be fished with no cost except the cost of the caught fish. These were plentiful as there was an adjoining fish hatchery which stocked the ponds. We chose to feed the fish rather than catch them - seemed kinder.
We relaxed for a day before driving into Billings to pick up our niece, Lynn, who was joining us from Glasgow, Scotland, for two weeks. We knew we wouldn't have many relaxing days during her 2 week visit as we intended to journey to the Black Hills of Dakota, Cheyenne, Wyoming before she flew home from Denver.
Her flight arrived on time and although she was tired she was hungry. This seemed like the ideal opportunity to visit the Montana Brewing Company for their wood fired pizza washed down with a pitcher of handcrafted beer. This finished Lynn off and she slept on the way back to the RV as she had been on the go for 36 hours (youngsters don't have the stamina we had?).
Natural Bridge State Park - This state park was further along the road from our campsite heading into the Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness area. We visited it before breakfast and were rewarded with sightings of Pronghorn Antelope & Mule deer by the roadside. The trail takes you to viewpoints of this interesting waterfall. At this time of year the water from the Boulder river runs under a natural bridge before cascading into the canyon. During spring run-off the river is so high it comes over the bridge and forms a higher waterfall. Drove a bit further on the gravel road and the further on the more dramatic the views became but we returned early as the jet-lagged wee Scots lassie was falling asleep, not easy in the back of a Pickup trick on a gravel road!.
Yellowstone National Park -
A beautiful day for a 340 mile loop drive that took us into Yellowstone NP, returning via the Beartooth National Scenic Byway (Hwy. 212) the most scenic drive in Montana/Wyoming.
We entered Yellowstone NP at the north entrance and visited Mammoth Hot Springs to allow Lynn a chance to spend some money on souvenirs. There were quite a few Elk around but when we were walking around the Hot Springs we spotted a huge Bull Elk resting under the trees, what a specimen! Knowing we would not be able to see all of this huge National Park in one day we thought we would travel the northern loop but the road between Canyon Village & Tower Junction was closed. This caused a change of plan and we travelled towards the Norris Geysers. 
Stopped at Sheepeater Cliff as on our last visit it was heaving with Marmots but they have either flitted or are already hibernating. After spotting some Buffalo and enjoying a real close up view of a Red Tailed Hawk we stopped for our picnic at Indian Creek before heading back towards the Northeast entrance. On the way a herd of Elk crossed the road in front of us (stop for photo opportunity), we waited for the Bull Elk but no joy until we drove off and he crossed behind us (Just like a man, has to be awkward). Stopped at Tower Falls, the first time we have visited, an awesome deep canyon of the Yellowstone River with amazing rock formations in the canyon wall.
Yellowstone's Highway to the sky winds from Cooke City, Wyoming, to Red Lodge, Montana, ascending to 10,947 feet at the West Summit Overlook. Stopped at Pilot & Index Peaks overlook - 8,718 feet, Beartooth Butte - 10,514 feet, dropped down to the beautiful Beartooth Lake at 8,901, Island Lake at 9,518 feet then up to the high point West Summit Overlook. Here we shared the 360 degree view with a herd of Mountain Goats which already had their thick winter coats as a bitter cold wind was blowing at that elevation. A steep descending switchback road took us past the Red Lodge International summer ski and snowboard camp, across the 45th parallel and finally to Red Lodge. We had decided to stop here for our evening meal and much to our surprise Lynn sniffed out a Microbrewery/restaurant, she really is related to us!. After our meal and a pint or two we made our weary way home in the dark. A long but
excellent day, enjoyed by all.
Big Timber to Hardin
A mere 180 miles on Interstate 90 took us to Hardin. We arrived by noon, quickly set up and headed for Little Bighorn National Recreation Area and Yellowtail Dam. A beautiful area but since it is officially winter (after Labour Day) much of the facilities were closed. We drove around to the boat launch area beyond the dam and enjoyed the views of the canyon. To see the real beauty of this canyon you need a boat as you only get glimpses from land. Made our way towards the very windy and busy Little Bighorn Battlefield, where Custer met his match. Watched a film telling the story of the battle (nothing like the Hollywood versions), took a short drive through the battlefield part of which was closed for road repair. This National monument is the busiest we have visited and this is late September. Took photo's before heading back to the warmth of the RV. It was to be a cold night tonight.
South Dakota
Harding to Hermosa, South Dakota
We are on our way "to the Black Hills, the Black Hills of Dakota" (everyone singalong with Calamity Jane) just under 300 miles mostly on US 212. A lovely clear cool day on a quiet road with lots of Pronghorn Antelope feeding in the fields. This breed is supposed to be an endangered species but from what we have seen in Montana quite a few hunting licenses will be issued for Pronghorns as they must be becoming a nuisance to ranchers. We encountered a 10 mile stretch where US 212 had been dug up for repair/widening and were routed over a temporary surface which made for an uncomfortable ride. Because it has been so dry the road crew send a water tanker along regularly to keep the dust down. Unfortunately this resulted in truck & RV getting covered in mud, not to worry Linda enjoys washing them both and she has Lynn to help.
The RV site we had chosen for it's central position was unmanned so we chose a site as far away from the road as possible. We intended to stay for a week but they had a special offer on - 9 days for under $100 which was much cheaper than 7 days, so we booked for 9 and stayed 7.
Mount Rushmore National Memorial -
Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt & Lincoln's faces are cut in the rock of the Black Hills and have featured in a few movies. The road thorough part of Custer State Park and up to Rushmore was interesting to say the least. Narrow tunnels, Pigs Tail bends/bridges made for a most interesting drive.
Watched a film on the "the idea, preparation and sculpting" of the presidents. Not like any other National Park we have visited as everyone must pay a car park fee but no entry fee to the Monument. On the way back we entered through the east gate of Custer State Park. A winding and very narrow mountain road, known as the Needles Highway, took us through the park including a few manmade narrow tunnels, one of which was only 8 foot 4 inches feet wide, we folded the truck mirrors in for that one. We were presented with a great photo opportunity of a bison scratching himself on a park sign, it seemed he had done this before. Lots of mountain sheep were grazing, numerous Wild Turkey and a few deer were spotted. When we got back to the RV Lynn washed our very dirty truck, Wullie cooked the dinner and Linda just looked beautiful!!
Custer State Park - This is a quite unique state park renowned for its herd of Bison (Buffalo) which grows to around 1500 in the summer months. 
They have a roundup of the Buffalo each year when they move the herd into a system of corrals where their health is checked, inoculations given and calves are branded. Approximately 1000 animals are released back into the park and the remainder are sold at auction producing a source of revenue for the state park. We are fortunate enough to be here for this years roundup which is open to the public but the downside is we have to be up before dawn!
10th Annual Buffalo Roundup - Why am I up before its light on a cool Monday morning? Followed other early risers to the parking area allotted for this annual feature. Now some people might think we're crazy standing in 40 degrees for 5 hours waiting for 1500 buffalo to come across the plains and into the corrals, but then you don't see that sort of thing in Scotland very often? ,Maybe it's not so stupid to hear the roar of hoofs as they're rounded up by the cowboys, some on horseback, some in pickup trucks. We visited the corrals to see the Buffalo up close, had our first Buffalo burger at the cookout and watched a Native American dancer performing the dance of the rings. She asked for volunteers from the audience and to Lynn's amazement? her Auntie Linda was up on stage with other volunteers to perform parts of the dance. Linda enjoyed it and was really quite good, but Lynn didn't want to tell anyone that was her Auntie. Wouldn't have missed the day for anything but it's a once only deal.
Harney Peak Hike - We hiked to Harney Peak the highest point in South Dakota at 7,242 feet. This was Lynn's first hike in the USA, a 6 mile round trip with 600 feet of elevation gain. The 360 degree view from the lookout tower was exceptional an ideal lunch stop. Chatted to other hikers, in particular a couple from Illinois/Canada before heading back to the truck. A great day for a hike - not too hot but sunny and clear.
Badlands National Park - Took a short cut to the NP along a county dirt road which cut a lot of miles off our journey. National Park = natural beauty. We stopped at most view points taking in the many colourful rock formations, all different. Lynn's favorite sight was Prairie Dog Town, where thousands of these little ground squirrel type creatures make their home in burrows. At one of the last viewpoints Linda & Lynn strolled to the end of a boardwalk to take yet another photo. As they turned to make their way back to the truck they heard a loud hissing noise, looked down and there was a Prairie Rattle Snake! It looked up showing just how unhappy it was to be disturbed from it's sleep. At a safe distance the camera was raised for a photo as it shook it's tail and stuck out it's black tongue. We got fairly excited when some Bison crossed the road in front of our truck, but we hadn't been to the roundup yet. Once we had taken in all the park had to offer we headed to the world famous Wall Drug Store - the largest drug store in the world, as advertised in the London Underground. Lynn bought a pair of Harley Davidson boots which were a very good bargain compared to UK prices.
Crazy Horse Monument - A very interesting day out. The monument is unfinished and probably will be for many years, but the head of Crazy Horse was completed and unveiled in 1998. When finished it will be the largest monument in the USA . If you are into Native American history and Art the collection of wonderful paintings and memorabilia in the museum is a must visit. We spent most of our visit in the museum on a nice sunny if cool day.
Rapid City - Lynn just had to visit a large shopping mall to lighten her purse. Some money had been trying to escape since her arrival. Linda & Lynn enjoyed their day's shopping at the Rapid City Mall, both came back with lighter purses and laden with bags of goodies which Wullie had to look at and say Awfy Braw, Awfy Braw, a real bargain!.
What an exciting month its been, visiting so many new places, and a new state namely South Dakota. The Black Hills is an interesting area and their were many things we never got around to visiting, like Deadwood (The stage is a coming on over the hill), Jewel cave NM, Wind Cave NP and Mammoth site. It was nice to be able to share it with our niece Lynn.
Next month - Wyoming, Utah where our next guests arrive for a two week holiday. Not sure after that
Miles traveled this month: 3,365
Total miles traveled since May 1999: 99,497
Interesting Hyperlinks:
Beartooth Highway, Montana/Wyoming
Mount Rushmore National Memorial
