|
Impressions from Morocco
Back in 1994, a group of some 15 2CVs from several European countries
started for Morocco - coming from Portugal. In order to get used to driving
on difficult terrain, they had gained some practice in the Portuguese
Serra da Estrela, exploring it by the rough roads. But what Morocco would
hold for them was beyond their wildest dreams... The
magnificent scenery of the Atlas Mountains proved quite demanding of man
and material... Roads narrowed to single-lane tarmacs, turned into tracks,
continued in drained riverbeds and finally lost themselves on the stony
ground...
The conditions took their toll: chassis bended or broke; overweight caused
severe losses in power, inattentiveness on the part of the driver (among
other reasons) inevitably led to undercar dents... and countless tyres
were wasted. Some
words about the itinerary: Coming from Ceuta (the Spanisch settlement
in Africa), we headed for Chefchaouen, where we were first confronted
with the Moroccan style of life (which certainly caused a sort of shock
to some of us - but gradually we learnt to deal with this problem). Entering
a strange new world also has its price. We crossed the Moyen Atlas and
met again in Midelt, where the most difficult part of the journey began:
the Cirque de Jaffar (unparalleled its beauty, but also the suffering
it causes to us) opens up a tremendous panorama of the Atlas Mountains
- and a tiny 2CV desperately clings to the edge of a precipice... It has
long since stopped transporting us, it's rather us who have to push it
on inch by inch with the utmost caution, till finally, after an endless
period of time, it reaches a more solid ground again... Night
has already fallen when we reach our camp at Lac Tislit - we are worn
out, but happy. It is quite chilly up here... In the morning, at daylight,
damages are being assessed. The Berber village of Imilchil lures nearby...
and then we start off for the famous Gorges du Todra, a scenic highlight
of some 14 kms. length. Usually
not really a harmless terrain, it means quite easy driving for us, after
what we had gone through before... On
the further end of the gorge near Tinerhir (the more touristic one, that
is to say), there is a comfortable hotel offering us a nice dinner, candlelight
shower, and a place to sleep on the roof terrace under a starry sky (but
we prefer our 2CV, with the roof open, that's for sure). From
Tinerhir oasis, we move on eastwards heading for Erfoud in the Moroccan
part of the sandy desert. The first traces of windborne sand on the tarmac
road... We wait for each other in Erfoud, and our Portuguese "organizers"
wrap themselves in the oddest scarfs to protect their heads from the desert
sand. After hours of waiting we start off for the desert, following the
telegraph line first, but somewhere we have to turn off, and then we are
left to the compass and to our guides. To top it all, a sandstorm is springing
up, there it is all of a sudden, pressing the folding window of the 2CV
upward with such violence that I can hardly shut it. But even with the
windows shut, you can still watch the layers of sand increase steadily
inside the car...
Sometime or other, it is over again, we spend the night in the desert,
continue our way via Merzouga to Rissani and, after another series of
adventures, finally reach Zagora, the southernmost (and with 42 °
C also the hottest) point of our trip. From here, it is still "53
days to Timbuktu" (on the other edge of the Sahara) - as a famous
sign says... We take one day for relaxing, before we head on to Marrakesh: meanwhile we are quite experienced in haggling, and so we take a chance in the souk; the Djemaa el Fna Square is bustling with activities, mainly in the evening and until late in the night, whereas it seems deserted during the day because of the heat. Via Fez and its Medina (old town) with its narrow lanes we head up north to the coast again - to spend a day at the seaside in Al Hoceima, before having our big farewell party at Chefchaouen (our starting point in Morocco). |