January 21, 1995 Kyoto, Japan Global Semester Dear Families & Friends, By now you have heard about the rollicking end of our trip that leaves us "quaking in our boots", so to speak! Although the earth has fractured near us, we are unharmed, only shaken and concerned about the people whose families and homes have suddenly been shattered. As you may know, we sleep on the floor, so when the rumble started, we just rode it up and down and sideways, then lay very still for a moment to make certain it had stopped. Jackie and I are in a room just below the students so we were getting dressed to go see how they were doing when some of them knocked on our door. We were relieved to hear that everyone was safe, then began looking around the Kaikan for evidence of damage. Walls were cracked and windows broken but the monks assured us that everything was okay. We have no verbal communication, just hand gestures, but we understood the worst was over. Neither local nor long distance phone calls went through, so we turned on the tv to discover how serious the quake had been in Kobe/Osaka. The fissure has done terrible damage to that area with horrible loss of lives and tremendous property damage. The estimate is 4 years to rebuild transportation and major utilities, not to mention homes. Our flat out language barrier makes us quite useless in most situations, so the Japanese have politely but with gratitude, refused our offers so far. Students have been gathering clothing and toiletries to send to victims. Trained rescue and medical personnel are urgently needed and if we could not leave, we would volunteer some way! Since our bus cannot travel the expressway to the airport, Professor Tada has negotiated a train trip to Kansai and we will leave on schedule tomorrow. As global winds down, we are grateful for what feels like our deepest cultural immersion. Lecturers seemed to drop straight out of a Zen novel, pilgrimages to the colorful temples and shrines became a way of life during the new year and the art forms and gardens seem to spring from the creative genius of Japanese eccentrics who are revered by society even though they feel like light years away from today's high tech style of living. You might say Global is ending with a bang! We all look forward to landing in Hawaii soon. Of course, it will be sad to see our journey end, but the time has come. We will enjoy seeing our families again and getting a taste of home. See you all soon! Love, Mac & Jackie STUDENT LETTER Global Semester January 21, 1995 Kyoto, Japan A final greeting to all from Global! Our time in Japan - and on the trip - is almost over. It's been three weeks since we arrived in Japan December 28 and settled into the guest house of the Kosho-Kaikan, a Buddhist monastery in Kyoto. All 28 of us students live in one room partitioned into a men's half and a women's half. The walls are made of rice paper screens, while the floor is tightly-woven straw tatami mats which provide a good base for the futon beds we spread directly on the floor. It's pretty cozy. Breakfast is inch thick toast--YUM! We're well cared for by Professor Tada, our program coordinator, who draws maps daily to show us where we're going and tells us to wear warm stuff. Kyoto celebrated its 1-200.h anniversary in 1954, and it is full of beautiful Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples. We've seen many of them, from the famous Phoenix Hall to the glittery Golden Pavilion, both of which face pools which reflect the structures and double the impact. A day trip to nearby Nara let us explore some of the most famous temples in Japan, the Takushi-ji and Todaiji. Todaiji was the head temple of the area when the capital was located at Nara in the 700s, and it houses a giant seated Buddha whose peaceful smile is almost four feet long. There is also a pillar with a hole supposedly the size of the Buddha's nostril in the bottom -- anyone who can slither through is a candidate for enlightenment. We all tried; most of us are eligible for enlightenment, provided someone takes our arms and pulls us through! New Year's is an exciting time of year around here since it's a religious holiday when people dress up in kimonos and visit shrines. We had our own New Year's Eve celebration here at the Kaikan and enjoyed the chocolate and fruit Tada-Sensei provided (remember, an apple can cost as much as seven dollars!). We also had a little sake, a little music, and a spoof by some of the women on the personality quirks that would turn up at the "Men's Breakfast". By midnight, though, we had literally rung in 1995 by contributing to the 108 times each temple bell is rung to cancel the sins of the old year. Then many of us went to a shrine to mix with the New Year's food, games, prayers and crowds. The next few days were perfect for "temple hopping" since the first days of the year are also part of the holiday. The temples and shrines were full of kimonos in rich colors and celebrating crowds Any city where a walk down the street leads past half a dozen temples and shrines is the perfect place to study religion and architecture, and we've had a fair dose of both. Our most personal encounter with religion was our experiences at the Zen Monastery Tofuku-ji. The abbot met with us to tell us about Zen (through an interpreter) and Instruct us in zazen, the practice of sitting in meditation. For fifteen minutes we tried to sit motionless and clear our minds of busy thoughts - and we found out how difficult that can be, even for such a short time. Our bare toes got cold, our backs hurt, our noses itched, our thoughts strayed. Zen monks, on the other hand, do zazen for an hour at a time, starting at three a.m. (THANKS TO BETH TRUESDALE, Amy) The first portion of our Kyoto stay passed quickly with our enjoyment of Professor Tada's arranged lectures and field trips. Before we could mumble "arigato," (Japanese for "thank you" - our token word of survival in Japan) we were packing for our week's travels to Hiroshima and Tokyo. We boarded the train early on the 1Oth; Professor Tada appeared just slightly relieved to safely send us off and resume his normal schedule. A few hours of speedy, bullet train service and we arrived in Hiroshima. Simon Capper, director of the YMCA Business School - English division and organizer of our homestay, greeted us at the train station. Simon's cheery "hello" in his crisp, British accent foreshadowed the excitement of the following days. We city-trammed it to the YMCA Business College and received a brief orientation to our homestay program. And then, the moment of reckoning: we met our student guides. The students had organized a welcome party which included polite, get-to-know-you conversation, yummy bars and cookies (baked by the students themselves) and lessons in origami. Most appeared to hit it off quite well! as questions of age, hobbies and girl/boyfriend status floated around the room. We met our homestay families later in the evening. Some Globalites stayed with their student's family and so returned home with them. Most, however, would return to the YMCA every night to be picked up on the parents' drive home from work. The first night in our new Japanese home varied with each Globalite and so you'll have to seek details from that person whose return you anxiously await! Most enjoyed a delicious Japanese dinner, perhaps even at the traditional low-level table, ranging from Skiyaki, a sort of stir-fry, to Okonomiyaki, a delightful egg, noodle-fried specialty of Hiroshima. Conversation revolved around family (including pictures), country impressions, and details of our Global adventures thus far. We experienced a night without our 27 dear bed mates and then reunited the next morning at the YMCA. The remaining days in Hiroshima contained more homestay and student adventures, but as mentioned before, the stories must be personally related. The group consensus is that this personal contact with people of the culture was invaluable: a true highlight of our Global trip! We encountered the terrible details of the World War II Hiroshima reality in our brief stay in this city. Our second morning's activities included a film on the aftermath of the Atomic Bomb. The film portrayed the immediate and eventual victims in their unedited pain and suffering. As shocking as the film appeared, our talk by Ms. Miyoko Matsubara evoked our strongest impressions of the horror of a "hibakusha" Hiroshima survivor. Ms. Matsubara was only 12 years old whcr, her school project was interrupted by a bomb whose boom and brightness she simultaneously heard and saw. Thrown yards from her school, she awoke from her unconsciousness hours later and began her quest for family and security. Like most hibakusha, Ms. Matsubara survived and yet suffered: she lost a best friend whom she saw lying in agony but couldn't help in her own plight, her father to cancer, and her brother and his wife. Ms. Matsubara herself has undergone 12 surgeries to help alleviate her persistent pain and restore some of her natural appearance. No amount of textbook learning prepared us for the vividness of Ms. Matsubara's tale, the emotion of which was magnified in her own retelling: words of sadness, facial expressions of pain and haunting memories and a kind voice undeserving of so terrible a nightmare. After Ms. Matsubara's talk we toured the Peace Memorial Museum: documentaries of the war's events, culminating in the decision to use the A-bomb, illustrations of the bomb's effect on people, structures and city, and a plea for the destruction of these weapons. This final point impressed us the most, perhaps especially as Americans, the perpetrators of this one incident. Ms. Matsubara, even in her life time of agony, relives her story in public appearances with the hope that the world will realize the futility of the terror of atomic weapons and destroy their present existence and future production. Ms. Matsubara and the Peace Museum acknowledged not a national enemy, but the enemy of war, only on war do they wish to seek revenge. When asked how long it took her to realize that war, not America was the enemy, Ms. Matsubara responded, "When I met the lovely American people." Our Global experiences assist us in trying to understand this incredible perspective; the Holocaust Museum in Israel, the Peace Memorial in Hiroshima and soon the Pearl Harbor site in Hawaii emphasize that the drama remains constant and only the characters revolve. Obviously, Ms. Matsubara's and all of Hiroshima's hope for peace, even after lives forever affected by one August day, will remain one of our most powerful Global impressions. The other group activity in Hiroshima was a visit to Miyajima, a tourist highlight and scenic island. We approached the island and famous Utsukushima Shrine via ferry, passing the sacred torii arch in the middle of the bay. We toured our last Global Temple, received our fortunes, checked out the pagodas, and boarded the ferry for our return. Our departure from Hiroshima rivaled that of one nearly 5 months ago. Families waved and bowed, we expressed our "arigotos," and a few tears were even shed. Both the families and ourselves had enjoyed a meaningful few days. Five hours on the dependable Japanese railways (to the minute) and we began our next Global chapter: Tokyo. Six Globalites visited family or friends outside Tokyo while the rest of us stayed in the relatively posh International Youth Hostel. As Tokyo was vacation, our activities again varied, although we mostly adhered to a general plan of tourism. Most visited Temples and Shrines, particularly the Meiji Shrine on the Japanese Holiday - Coming of Age Day. The holiday attracts 20 year-old women dressed in beautiful kimonos of red, blue, green, and peach, escorted by stylish 20 year-old men to the local shrines to register their adult status - a beautiful and colorful spectacle. Besides the temple and shrine visits, most explored the excellent Tokyo art museums, some enjoyed a touch of Tokyo shopping, others a walk down the brilliant, neon-lit streets of Ginza and some a quiet rest at the Hostel with time to read our Japanese religion text and journal for Mac's art class. A few whirlwind days of busy Tokyo life and we again boarded the train for Kyoto and our final week in Japan. (THANKS TO KARLA HULT, Amy) We returned safely only to be greeted by an earthquake at 5:44 Tuesday morning. For twenty seconds the floor shimmied and the rice paper walls rattled. We huddled under the door frames, hoping to stay clear if the ceiling fell (of course, several of the guys inadvertently sat just below a large, heavy heater that hung from the ceiling just beside the door. Oops.) Nothing fell, the only damage the Kaikan stained were a few cracks in windows. The city of Kobe, thirty miles away, was less fortunate. Over four thousand died in the quake and ensuing fires. The next night was a long one - Minnesota Public Radio called at midnight, and by six a.m. channels 4,5,9, and 11 had followed suit. The Star Tribune and the Faribault paper were among the next day's callers. We felt both famous and sleepless. Meanwhile, all of us tried to contact parents to let everyone know we were fine. Ten countries, five months, and a thousand stories - this has been Global Semester. We're grateful for all the letters and phone calls and support from home that makes this time both possible and fun. It's been wonderful to learn first hand about places that once seemed far away - and it will be wonderful to be home again. We'll see you in a few days! (THANKS TO BETH T.) Much love, Global Semester 1994-1995