Ziaraat in IRAN
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I visited Iran from 20th July to 2nd August 2000. My Journey be described in 5 parts:

1. Lahore (Pakistan) to Quetta: After getting Iranian Visa from Iranian Consulate in Lahore ( A very tough job to do), I with a group reached Quetta by a train. Travel by first class sleeper (non-AC) is not advisable in hot Summer days.
2. Quetta to Taftan: In Quetta the Zaireens (holy visitors) usually stay in one of the Imam Bargahs on Alamdar Road. We stayed in Imam Bargah Baltistania. Toilets are just acceptable but there are no bath rooms.You have to visit a Hamam. Haidery Hamam is better. On alamdar road, You can exchange Iranian Currency, book a coach or reserve a seat for Iran by air. We reserved our seats in a AC Bus for Taftan through Mr. Ishaq Badeeny of Baltistani Imam Bargah. He was owner of it. It is night journey of about 12 hours.

3. Taftan to Zahidan & Qom: We entered Iran on 20th July 2000. Border opens at 8:30 am. We crossed the border(i.e. it is going from Taftan to Mir Javah) and tooka double cabin wagon for Zahidan (88 Km away- One hour travel). We stayed in a hotel near the bus terminal. We were tired and slept overnight here. Next day we booked tickets for Qom. We also booked seats by Iranian Air from Mashhad to Zahidan. Bus left in the evening and reached Qom in about 25 hours. The bus drivers smuggle Afghanis. They drop them before and pick them after the the checkposts. So they waste a lot of time. Buses are comfortable and have cold water box.

4. QOM & Tehran: At Qom we payed visit to Mausoleum of Masooma-e-Qom (sisster of Imam Raza) and visited Some tombs of Imam Zadgaan (sons of Imams). We also visited Mosque of Jamkaran made under order of Imam Mehdi. In Tehran we visited Mausoleum of Imam Khomeini, Imamzadeh Shah Abdul Azeem Hasani, and Imam zadeh Daud and many other shrines.

5. Mashhad: The final destination of the holy visitor: We visited Shrine of Imam and payed Salaam. Neshapur is a nearby city where there is spring raised by Imam and footprints of Imam. Feroza (a gemstone) is mined from here. After 2 weeks in Iran the breturn Journey started on 2nd August, 2000. In mashhad there are many Musafar Khana's (guest house). One is "Musafar Khana of Khanam Zahra" (tel: 051-2223637)in Sarshoor bazar. The lady speaks Urdu very well. Haram of Imam is always open and rush is constant. We enjoyed the holy feast at Imam's shrine at a place called "Hurray Aamlee". We found Mashhad more expensive than Qum. Visit Bazar-e-Raza for shopping.
TIPS:Keep drinking water with you while entering Iran. Quetta to Zahidan/Tehran is an arid zone. There is scarcity of water. The water if available is saltish. It is better in Tehran to Mashhad belt. Look after your hanging purse. In food Chullo Kebab (rice and kebab) is famous. While haggling price use calculator display. Dry weather effects skin. Use socks, vaseline, chapstick. Women wear a black cover, covering all except face.Iran is 30 miutes back from Pakistan. Electricity is 220 V-50 HZ (Like Pakistan).

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Ghazanfar Abbas Zaidi