A woman and child at food stall   A man sleeping in the market   Cham tower architecture

Aug. 2, 1998 More Nha Trang      Following the visit to Oceanographic Institute this morning, we took a short stroll down to a pier made out of rock.  The route took us through a road crowded with merchants selling anything from fruits, dried sea horses, conical hats and souvenir memorabilia.  We came to a place filled with hawkers and food stalls.  The food stalls consisted of a low table accompanied by some small plastic chairs. The chef was a woman wearing a conical hat sitting behind her kitchen made of a small table containing the ingredients of the dish she sells.  Compact and mobility was the motto here.     A beggar on crutches persistently held out his hand in front of me.  I noticed the left leg of his pant was tied up in a knot almost to his crotch indicating an amputated leg.  I looked around and spotted several more.  Our boat arrived.  The destination was Hon Tam, a nearby island.  The clear turquoise water in Nha Trang was very refreshing to look at.  I savored the moment by absorbing the scenery with my glowing eyes.  Hon Tam was nothing but a tourist dump-off.  It was a stretch of rocky beach with rental huts soliciting jet skis, kayaks, inner tubes and paddle boats at the tourists.  There were 13 different island in this area. I preferred a more private one.     I consumed a few beers with Tho's father at a little snack bar that also sold swimming goggles, postcards, photographic film and local memorabilia.  We ordered some cha (Vietnamese bologna), which sent me to the toilet frequently later, from a girl who carried them in a basket to wash our beers down.  I got into the warm, clear water for a swim.   My decision of visiting the less crowded part of the beach resulted in a stinging frenzy by these tiny little jelly fish.  On the way back, Tho's stepmother bought a set of decorative stuffed lobster.  Actually they were the shells of two dead lobsters that had been carefully repainted.  The driver Nhon gave her hell for bringing these fragile items into the packed van: "These shrimps will become powder by the time you get home."  We all laughed.      After lunch I decided to go explore some more.   I strolled down the virtually empty beach.  It was scorching hot.  Only a couple of westerners grilled themselves on the beach rental chairs.  Swarming them were the wandering masseuses wearing  pajamas and conical hats.  By the water front, a topless white woman was being pounded and rubbed by two fully clothed Vietnamese.  Something that would never change in this country.  Westerners always came for the Asian massage and more.      I climbed onto a cyclo for a trip down the market.  Vietnamese market was virtually a swap meet.  Inside the market were tiny storefronts selling merchandise.  Outside were makeshift stalls selling meat, fish, livestock, produce and fruits.  At noon time the market was all but closed down.  People slept at their stalls waiting for the heat to cool down.  It was amazing how these people were able to sleep in such condition, I meant the stench and the filth surrounding them.  Some even laid at the same spot that was occupied by slimy fish or bloody meat only hours ago.    We paid a visit to the Cham tower Po Nagar in the afternoon.  This memorial located atop a red dirt hill.  The view was magnificent.   The tower was built between 7th and 12th century.   The myth behind these towers, told by Sang the tour guide, was a little different from what I've read.  He explained that the main tower was built to worship a woman who came to earth from heaven as a little girl.  She got caught stealing watermelon from the field by a couple who didn't have any children.  They adopted her and she grew up to a beautiful woman.  One day a prince from China came by the region to visit.  He saw this beautiful woman fetching water by a river bank and felt in love.  He opted to take her to his country and married her.  They lived together and had some children.  But one day, she disappeared.  The legend told that she came back to the same spot where these towers are today and became a beggar.  Her husband took the children to find her but lost their lives at the same spot.  And people built these monuments to commemorate her.  Maybe that explained why there were too many beggars congregated by the gate of this place.      Filing back into the shark after descending from the Cham towers, we headed to the Hon Chong point.  This place has a neat structure of rocks.  There was a giant hand print on a rock that said belonged to a giant who was peeping at a bathing fairy queen.  "More myth to sell tourist memorabilia," Tho's father exclaimed in sarcasm.    That night, there was a special treat.  We went out for nem nuong (grilled Vietnamese sausage).  This restaurant was quiet packed.  We climbed a flight of stair to reach the second floor.  Dinner immediately served.  A beautiful woman in ao dai (traditional Vietnamese dress) wore a "Carlberg's" beer advertisement diagonally across her body enticed me and Tho's to drink her brand.  We ordered two pints, they brought three. Tho's father drank two.     I had been avoiding fresh produce ever since I arrived.  But this dish does not taste right if I didn't use condiments which included lettuce, mint leaves, sliced green banana, basil and couple other things.  I wrapped one roll, dipped it into nuoc mam (fish sauce), took a bite and savored the taste.  Abruptly,  Tho's step mother's aunt screamed to a waitress: "Look, there is a large worm in the basil !"  She held the basil to the waitress.  This weary servant took the leaves and dropped it on the floor then squashed the insect with her foot.  This action sparked a shouting match between Tho's father and the instigator.  I dropped my food, guzzled down the rest of my beer and went home hungry.