The Maine Coast is around 3,500 miles long. But it's convoluted and shaped as if the creator had been challenged to provide the maximum ratio of sea to mainland. In addition to the Atlantic, there are myriad rivers and countless lakes. In short, the area provides a spectrum of opportunities for all types and ability of leisure boaters.

It was exactly 9am, the agreed time, when Rob and I rolled up on our bicycles. The boats, and all the kit, lay ready waiting on the jetty. Tucked under the cords of one was a note reminding us when high tide was, and wishing us a good day's paddle. Scott of Seaspray Kayaking (pictured, left) had already taken a group out at 7am and still had time to prepare everything for us.

We were enchanted! By the vista - the kayaks waiting for us on the wooden pontoon, the yachts and dingies anchored in the narrow inlet; by the sunshine - it was clearly going to be another hot day; and by the horizon - the river got gradually ever wider, fringed by colourful wooden holiday homes, home to yet more craft, encompassing tree-choked islands and, eventually, though we only knew this from our maps, leading into the sea.

Seaspray Kayaking is based on the New Meadows River. It's tidal, but so far inland, it's safe for all abilities. Yet from here you can paddle to a long, sandy beach for a swim, then further to islands where ospreys have laid claim to their territory with huge nests and above which eagles wheel.

We picnicked on one such, on a tiny ledge with a panoramic view of more islands, including the inhabited (and hence off-limits) Bombazine; the opposite bank - by then over a mile away; a fishing boat, either on its way out or back; and the direction of the sea. Scott had marked on our maps where he thought we might see bald eagles, picnic and spot seals. In fact, we dawdled and explored to such an extent that we didn't get more than half as far as he had envisaged.

The sun was so warm, the water movement (despite the fact we had the tide against us in both directions) so gentle, we just lazed our way down one bank, demolished our lunch - it's astounding how a bit of fresh air can create an appetite - circumnavigated the three nearest islands, crossed the river and nosed our boats along the opposite shore, arriving back just as Scott arrived to see how we were getting on.

Once more on dry land you find showers (open to all boat users launching from the area, but astoundingly clean) and toilets. On the road on which Seaspray is based, there are several motels, a turn-off to a camp site (in season) and places to buy the makings of a decent packed lunch.

What we needed was a decent cup of coffee, so we headed for Bookland, two miles up the road. This huge book shop has a friendly cafe that does the best chocolate chip cookies we have ever had as well as innovative and tasty snacks at modest prices. The same mall also 'boasts' a Denny's (anything you like as long as it's covered in grease or slathered in ice cream or one of 15 salad dressings).

Next time we'll sign up for one of the three-day expeditions on offer from Seaspray, which include camping out on secluded islands. In which case we'll deserve a second helping of those choc chip cookies from Bookland...!

If your appetite is w(h)etted -
now for the rest of you!
Other companies in Maine that will get you on the water include:
Casco Bay Lines
Portland, Maine, US
www.CascoBayLines.com
Information@CascoBayLines.com
Eagle Watch Canoe Trips
Guaranteed eagle sightings.
Eagle Watch, PO Box 128, Old Town, Maine 04468, US
Tel: 207 827 6493;
Moxie Outdoor Adventures
The Forks, Maine 04985, US
www.wild-rivers.com
New England Outdoor Centre
www.raftingmaine.com;
North Country Rivers
PO Box 47, East Vassalboro,
Maine 04935, US
www.ncrivers.com
raftmaine@ncrivers.com
Northern Outdoors
Route 201, North Forks
Maine 04985-9980, US
www.northernoutdoors.com
Professional River Runners
PO Box 92, Route 201,
West Forks, Maine 04985, US
www.proriverrunners.com
Unicorn Expeditions
Route 201, Lake Parlin,
Maine 04945, US
www.unicornraft.com
info@unicornraft.com
Woodland Acres
Route 160, RFD 1, Box 445,
Brownfield, Maine 04010, US
www.woodlandacres.com
campcanu@nxi.com

For more information on Maine, see the web site at http://www.visitnewengland.com/maine