Baja HaHa to Baja aha!

December 6-15, 1998

Finally, a taste of real Mexico.

Left Cabo San Lucas and none too soon! After well over a week at this tourist mecca, we were tired of jetskis and 1/2 gallon margaritas (well, OK, the margaritas weren’t so bad...).

After a quick sail north, we arrived in La Paz - ‘the Peace’ - a smaller city about 150 miles north of Cabo. A city full of warm, happy people who take their time and enjoy themselves. While there we saw the Independence Day parade - where every school, sporting group and civic organization marches down main street and is cheered in whirls of song and dance. It’s a long parade, with half the audience consisting of former and waiting parade participants.

After LaPaz, we headed out to the islands north in the Sea of Cortez. The variety of geology, plants, animals and people among these islands is astounding. A blend of pink and green igneous and conglomerate rocks, their shape reveals the volcanic past of this area, with circlar shaped bays formed by old calderas and cone-shaped peaks rising from the rubble.

Most of the few people who live here make a very modest living off of the abundant sea life. From shrimpers who live at anchor, venturing out into the sea each night until their holds are full of frozen ‘camarone’, to the men who live in makeshift camps along the shore and work each week and visit with their families on weekends. We too enjoyed our first catch here, a dinner sized dorado or mahi-mahi. Our second was another dinner-sized blue-fin tuna. We might be some of the few anglers who are thankful not to snag one of those huge tuna, dorado, marlin or grouper that are so prized that they have been fished out of many areas.

Through much of this trip we travelled with the Crockett family, who conveniently enough had two boys Ben and Cam's age. We hiked, swam, had beach parties and shared Thanksgiving ham (complete with pumpkin pie) and enjoyed ourselves in every way. After a couple of weeks in the islands, we sailed across the sea to Mazatlan - quite the contrast to the villages - and everyone is doing great. We’ve treated ourselves to a few days in a pretty nice marina - complete with swimming pools, movie stars (just kidding). Oh, the joy of the flush toilet and real shower!.

After a few days' 'vacation' at the resort marina, we've come to Puerto Vallarta via Isla Isabella - a place with more birds in one place that we've ever seen - mostly frigate birds and a variety of boobies {blue, yellow and brown footed}. Also home to about 20 fishermen and countless shrimpers. We enjoyed shrimp, or camarone, at Matanchen, a harbor near San Blas, home to many beachside restaurants with few visitors, because of its predominantly local clientele. The wildlife includes many interesting creatures, including crocodiles and birds, but the prize for most prominent animal in this area has got to go to the no-see-um (itch, itch). Our friend Nadine from Madison arrived to spend this week with us (thanks for the care package of Wisconsin Cheddar!).

After these stops, another major mind-shift was required as we headed to Puerto Vallarta, home of the mega motor yacht and pricey hotels and restaurants. A few days here to get some work done (we're building our refrigerator - you know the Matzkes can't move in anywhere without doing a kitchen rehab...)and it's on to Zihuatenejo to join many other cruisers for the holidays.

FELIZ NAVIDAD y FELIZ AÑO NUEVO!