We were given an computer-generated itinerary and color map with the wineries and recommendations for lunch. Norman was very personable and knowledgeable, having lived in Adelaide for 20 years. The 6 hour tour cost $A 188) plus a bottle of good Barossa cabernet as a gift for Norman, which we thought was a pretty good deal divided among 3 people.
The Wineries
Going to the Barossa, Norman took a backroad, which wound through shady woodland with lots of gum trees. As a reminder that you really were Down Under, there were several "Kangaroo Crossing" warning signs posted along the way. In the meadows between the gum trees, were an abundant purple wildflower, Salvation Jane, which while pretty to look at, Norman warned was the bane of the ranchers locally, as it was deadly poisonous to stock. The other little known fact, which Norman was hesitant to tell us with Erin present, is that a male kangaroo's reproductive equipment is on his backside, so he doesn't bruise it when he's jumping from place to place, reflected accordingly in the road signs, if you look closely enough.
Our first stop was Grant Burge Winery which easily had the most impressive grounds and one of the most impressive tasting rooms. Their Holy Trinity, one of the reserve wines, which is a combo of Shiraz, Grenache and Mourvedre, is a fabulous full-bodied red wine. Their tawny port was especially good as well, especially for helping one sleep through the racket on the overnight train ride the next day. Also on the property were several pens with resident kangaroos, who were a big hit with Erin.
Next stop was Rockford Winery, which had outstanding Cabernet and Shiraz wines. From there, we went to Charles Melton Wines, just up the road from Rockford. They are the makers of Nine Popes, another blend of Rhone grapes similar to the Holy Trinity. Sadly, they had none of the 9 Popes available for tasting at the Winery, but I found it in California selling for close to double what it cost in Australia, where curiosity forced me to buy it, even at the premium price. It was well worth it. Paying twice as much in the US is the norm, as the importers and the US government have to get their share, so if you like Australian wine, Australia is a great place to buy it, but remember if bringing it to the US, you're only allowed one litre per person by US customs, duty free.
After Charles Melton, we drove to the end of Krondorf Road to the Krondorf Winery where we didn't try any wines, but rather, took in the view, as the winery is high enough on the hill to see the rest of the valley. From there, Norman dropped us off at a German deli in the town of Tanunda, where we had lunch. After lunch, we proceeded on to Peter Lehmann Winery.
Crime Victims
Just before we arrived at Peter Lehmann winery, on the side of the road, I noticed a grungy looking guy who had ridden his bike into the bushes and was kicking the chain. Shortly after we arrived in Lehmann's tasting room, this same man appeared at the counter, also to taste the wine, although it appeared he might have had one too many. Upon closer view, he appeared to be a young Japanese tourist travelling solo. I bought my most expensive purchase on the trip, a $A 55 bottle of Stonewell shiraz. I left the wine in a bag on a picnic table, and asked Norman to take a photo of the 3 of us on the grounds nearby. It was Erin who first saw noticed the grungy Japanese tourist putting the wine in the front basket of his bike and taking off.
After lots of shouting, I sprinted after the guy, as I had a chance of cutting him off before the driveway went uphill. Unfortunately, I barely missed the cutoff and pulled to within about 4 feet of him on the hill before it leveled out and I ran out of steam. While I was doubled over, trying to catch my breath, the taxi arrived behind me with Rich, Erin and Norman inside. Norman said, "let's go get the son of a -----." After several g'day's exchanged with various folks on the side of the road, only one person had seen the thief, and we decided further pursuit would be fruitless as he was undoubtedly hiding behind some bushes. As a formality, we drove back to the winery and told the staff there about what happened in case they saw the guy again. The woman behind the counter surprised me by saying, "We're going to give you another bottle, of course." At first I was adamant about not taking it, as it wasn't their fault I was a careless fool, but they weren't going to let me leave without taking it. This bit of goodwill was a smart gesture, as I now buy Peter Lehmann wine whenever I see it in the States. Of course, it's easier when they make a great inexpensive shiraz and cabernet. South Australia prides itself as the only Australian state not colonized by convicts. Regardless, everyone we spoke to that day agreed that our luck was bad, as this type of thing is unusual in the Barossa Valley.
Norman asked if we were up for one more stop. I wasn't, but Rich and Erin were, so we went to Seppeltsfield Winery. Rich and Erin tasted the wine; I tasted the water. When we told the 2 women in the tasting room about our robbery, and described the thief, they said that he had been there earlier that day as well. As a consolation, they offered me a small glass of raspberry vinegar, supposedly good for calming the nerves, although in my case, brandy might have been more effective. After this, it was time to head back to Adelaide. After a quick stop at a park with a good view of the skyline, it was back to the hotel. Norman left us with his mobile phone number, as he said he could drive us to the train station the next day, as our next stop was Alice Springs, in the center of the continent in the Northern Territory.
Glenelg - Adelaide's Beach
From the center of Adelaide, there is a 1929 vintage electric tram that goes the approximately 10 miles to Adelaide's beach resort of Glenelg. The streetcar starts by following a green Esplanade. On the esplanade, we saw several groups of Aborigines who appeared homeless. Norman had warned us to be wary of the Aborigines in the center of town, as they had been known to aggressively beg or rob people. Although the Australian government and many of the people are trying to make amends, there is still a lot of distrust between European Australians and the Aborigines, many of the problems analogous to those in the US between American Indians and other Americans.
Glenelg is a nice little beach town, with a broad white sand beach, several old art deco buildings at the foot of the beach, and a public pier near the tram's end of the line. Since the weather had turned from warm and sunny the previous day to cloudy, gusty and cold, we didn't lay out on the beach and work on our tans. Instead, we walked to the end of a public pier maybe 150 yards long, admired the teal green color of the water of the Southern Ocean, and had some fish and chips, per recommendation of our guide book, and some oysters, per recommendation of Erin. If you ever find yourself in Glenelg, give both a try. Upon returning to Adelaide, Norman met up with us and gave us a ride to the Ghan, the train which makes the 20 hour journey between Adelaide and Alice Springs. The Ghan was named after the Afghan camel drivers employed to deliver goods to the Outback prior to the railroad's arrival.
Next Page
