Prologue

The December, 1997 issue of Conde-Nast Traveller magazine contained an article by Jeremy Bernstein in the "Travelling Spectator" section (page 70) about a trip to Mt. Kailash in western Tibet. This article prompted me to search the WWW for more information on Kailash, Tibet, trekking, Nepal, and so forth. As part o the search I happened upon a link to the Himalayan Explorer's Club. Their newsletter mentioned a trek to Kailash being organized by Richard (Dick) Zody, a frequent Himalayan trekker and professor at Virginia Tech University.

Contacting Dick by email, I got information on the trek. The trekking company that was running the trip was Snow Lion Expeditions. After visiting these websites and talking to Snow Lion, I made the decision in December of 1997 to join the trip. The scheduled dates for the trek were May 10 to June 6, 1998. I decided that I would have enough time to get ready, plus undertake a physical training program.

Some Personal Considerations

I turned 49 on during the first week of the trek. By profession, I am a computer software consultant. This profession has some good and bad points, but for the purpose of travelling it gives the necessary flexibility. At the time I decided to go, I was working in downtown Boston and commuting weekly from my home in the northern Atlanta suburbs. Being disenchanted with the cold Boston winter was an added incentive to terminate my Boston engagement.

I am married to a wonderful woman who puts up (sometimes even cheerfully) with my pecadillos. It must be said that leaving home for 5 or so weeks strained even her level of understanding to the limit. The worst part of such an absence is the inability to communicate for weeks at a time. Once on the road in Tibet, there is no way (short of a satellite phone setup) to keep in touch. Both of us imagined the worst - the other being killed suddenly - while the other was completely out of touch. The fact that I have two small children (4 and 1 at the time of the trip) was an added strain. In any case, these are the sort of things that one must consider when voyaging into remote and difficult regions.

Preparation

I had never hiked before, nor had I camped for many years. These facts had two primary consequences: first, I had no suitable clothes or equipment for such a trip; second, I needed to get into physical shape necessary to meet the rigors of the trail. A third, and less problematic, issue was to obtain the necessary immunizations.

Shopping primarily at REI, I purchased the following major items of equipment:

Being in Boston during the week at an office job, I was not able to take practice hikes. Thus the physical training was reserved for a health club, which I attended 2 or three evenings a week. I concentrated primarily on aerobic conditioning via Stairmaster and treadmill. By the end of April, I was able to do a 30-40 minute Stairmaster routine. In retrospect, this was just barely enough for the level of activity required by the trek.

One thing I did do was to break in my boots by hiking to the subway station from my house almost every day. In a trek like this, having properly broken-in boots is of utmost importance. Nothing can ruin your day on the trail like blistered feet.

Jumping ahead to the end, I can report the following on potential equipment issues:

For immunization, I obtained the following:

The first 3 of these I obtained at modest cost at my local county health clinic. The latter two were administered by a travel clinic associated with Emory University. The Typhoid immunization was via a series of oral tablets, and the others are via innoculation.


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