A tour of the island


MAPS

main Samui map
nathon - mae nam . . . . . . mae nam - chaweng . . . . . . chaweng - lamai . . . . . . lamai - nathon
nathon . . . . . . mae nam . . . . . . boput . . . . . . chaweng . . . . . . lamai

SUMMARY


Nathon


nathon to mae nam


mae nam to big buddha


big buddha to chaweng



chaweng to lamai



lamai to nathon


Summary

If your looking for unspoiled Asian paradise , theres little of it left on Samui .( or anywhere ! if you find it let me know ). On the other hand , if your after nice beaches , cheap prices , great food , relaxed sunbathing or full on partying then Samui probably has something to offer you.

A little history first . Samui was and still is the coconut island,but today the income from coconuts is a small part of the G.D.P. of the island.
From the early 80's tourism caught up with samui. Some of the first backpackers stayed with local familys and it was probably from this that Samui gained its reputation for friendliness above the usual Thai hospitality.
The first bungalow was naturally First bungalow, still on Chaweng beach.
The transport was on the back of an infrequent truck for the boneshakeing 15 km trek from Nathon to Chaweng.. today it's hanging off the side ,back or top of a kamikaze taxi along a hopelessly narrow concrete road ,where the only rule is get there first and don't mind the motorcycles they don't make much of a dent.
The night boat from Suratthani to Nathon is still in operation and the preferred way of getting to Samui for the romantic (adventurous / foolish during the stormy season.)
With the rise in tourist numbers the variety of transport to and from samui has increased. Ferry's ,express boats , hover craft , planes. ( the ferry's being the safest. )
The road around Samui has been concreted to a width of 6 metres which on the main ring road is still to narrow due to the large volumes of traffic , and mentality of the average driver. (I've always found the motor bike and a defensive attitude the best transport.)
The main road is in constant upgrade / repair ,especially around Chaweng where flooding due to unchecked development is an annual occurrence.
When hiring cars and bikes be careful as some of them are not in good repair and downright dangerous,if in any doubt don't take it , the roads are hazardous enough.the larger bungalows and hotels will provide transport or reliable hire car / bikes. Read any hire agreements as a lot of times you'll be liable for any accidents .( Easy way to ruin a holiday and lighten a bank balance .)
The road toll was up to 1 death / day. Who knows what it is now? No published figures.
A local taxi fare from Nathon is .at a rough guide........ Mae Nam 15 bt . Chewang 25 bt. Lamai 20 bt. allow for inflation , but don't be conned into paying above the local rate.. also don't argue if you think your being overcharged 5 bt. ( it's embarrasing to watch europeons in arguements with Thais about 20 cents Use a bit of commonsense and remember in Thailand you'll make more friends , have a far better time and earn more respect if you keep a calm and level exterior even though inside , you want to murder everyone around you. )

A bungalow complex is usually 10 or so individual bungalows in rows back from the beach with a restaurant in the middle . Expect to pay anywhere from 80 - 25,000 baht / night ,depending on your comfort level.
Contrary to what many tour and travel agents would have you believe there are still many beachfront bungalows in the 100 - 300 baht range. Most bungalows have double bed , fan , toilet. The restaurants are the secret to a good bungalow , generally the better the the food /price / cleanliness , the better the rooms will be. Prices are no reflection of standards !
Expect to pay between 20 - 30 bt. for a meal of rice /soup /noodles. at the local markets. Add 5 bt. for the bungalow restaurants.
Only drink the bottled water which will cost around 15 bt. / litre . With the rapid development and use of septic tanks ,as there's no main sewer system , it won't be long before Samui has a major pollution problem besides the visible one of rubbish.
Samui has a population of around 35,000 , 20,000 of who work in tourism , theres an annual influx of approx. 800,000 tourists ,75% of them from overseas. This puts the island under a lot of strain environmentally , with an annual water shortage and during the stormy seasons frequent power faliures.These problems are being worked on by the government and as more money pours in will be solved.. (one of my favorite memorys of Samui is an evening spent in a beachfront restaurant playing 'pock dang' a thai gambling game , by the light of kerosene lamps , as the storms crashed , lightning reflected across the sea and the rain bucketed down. )
There is now a large population of Europeans living on the island .Some running bars / restaurants / bungalows .Others simply takeing advantage of the cheaper cost of living.Due to this popularity there have been a number of holiday house tourist developments, where people lease a house for 30 - 60 years . ( Thailand doesn't allow the sale of land to foreigners. )

The marketing of Samui is aimed mostly at the middle class package tour group.There are still many of the old backpacker hangouts but the days of the magic mushrooms and gunja are gone.( serious drugheads headed for KohPhangan but even thats being cleaned up)
.As anywhere in the world drugs are still avaliable and there is a hard drug problem amongst the Thai population with its resultant increase in crime and violence ,but the average tourist will see little of that. ( corruption is an institution in Thailand ,there are many examples of police enticing people into drug deals, then arresting and fineing them ,as a way of increasing personal finance. ). but no one was innocent. just use your common sense.
There have been a number of large hotel developments similar to Phuket and other tourist spots around the world. It's now possible to fly into Samui , be chauffeured to your hotel spend a week on the beach at $100 a day eat $30 meals, take a half day sightseeing tour , then fly back to your country and reflect on your Samui experience

DON'T BE ONE OF THESE PEOPLE !

THE ONLY WAY TO TRULY EXPERIENCE SAMUI IS TO GET OUT AMONGST IT. Go to Chewang at night and see the worst of it.... Visit a temple on one of the Buddhist days ( like Big Buddha on Loy Katoung in november ) and see the best... Go for a trip up a few side roads , the hilltop farms , the early morning markets , the deserted beaches , thats where the real Samui is...
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