Click on any image for a larger version...
Beit Wakil, Our Home in Aleppo:
The
Old City of Aleppo is a labyrinth of cobblestone streets and shops. This
alley at the entrance to the Old City also led to Beit Wakil, whose sign
and awning are visible to the left. Beit Wakil is an old merchant
serai that has been renovated into a charming 14 room hotel. It served
as our base of operations for our visit to Aleppo.
We
could not imagine a nicer setting for our stay in Aleppo. The hotel
is centered around the courtyard pictured at the right, and the rooms are
all arrayed around this central point. Our room, shown at the left was
one floor up from the courtyard. The room was very traditional, dark wood
with equally dark woven rugs on the floor, a bed and nightstand--definitely
a no-frills room. For privacy one closes the wooden shutters. Except for
electricity and CNN, the room could have been from a century earlier.
An Armenian Christmas:
As
we were here over Christmas, we took part in the celebrations. Christmas
in an Islamic country? Well, Syria has a large Armenian population, located
in this section of the old city (the Jdaide Quarter). For Christmas eve
we enjoyed an Armenian style Christmas dinner at the Sissi house, another
restored merchant home, this one converted into a beautiful restaurant.
The main dining hall was the central courtyard. Because of the cold weather,
it had a canvas ceiling and the entire area was heated. It was a spectacular
setting as we settled in to a main course of turkey. You haven't lived
until you have had mezze with Turkey!
Cantata...Oh Oh Oh Oh!:
Nothing
says vacation like travel...and FOOD! While the Sissi house was a lovely
setting, and sharing a Christmas meal with a roomful of festive Armenians
is a rare treat, our quest for great food took us a bit farther afield.
The next day we discovered an amazing Italian restaurant several winding
blocks away, Cantata. Another dining hall built around an old courtyard,
its fresh calamari, soups, pastas and pizzas were not to be believed.
The truth be told, we spent the next five meals eating there. So, the next
several days were broken up by sight-seeing, followed by Italian food.
Then shopping, followed by Italian food. As always, we were served by a
friendly staff who probably thought we couldn't manage to find any other
restaurants. The fact is, we didn't want to.
The Citadel:
Overlooking
Aleppo on the only piece of high ground to be seen for miles is the one
of the jewels of Aleppo's ancient history, the Citadel. Access to the fortress
is gained through the monumental gateway (shown at the left) and from there
you ascend a very steep fifty meters above the rest of Aleppo. Like many
of the ancient ruins from this part of the world, the Citadel has been
used by (and used to repel) many of the conquerors who traveled to this
part of the world--Franks, Mamelukes, Mongols, Abbassids. Once up to the
top, there is an inner wall for secondary defense. Within those walls one
can find a bath complex, the Mosque of Abraham, where the patriarch was said to milk his
cows (shown to the right), as well as various settlements, barracks, and
palaces, some dating from as early as the 13th century.