EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND - - Blustery gales swept down platform No. 1 at Edinburgh's 19th century Waverley railway station, typical of autumn weather in these windy parts. A splendid kilted piper skirled rousing tunes of glory to welcome passengers boarding The Royal Scotsman, one of Scotland's best kept travel secrets.
Described as the world's most exclusive train - and at $4,150 (£2,450) per person among the most expensive - we were embarking on a five-day journey of enchantment among Scotland's magnificent highlands, lochs, islands with side visits to a couple of historic castles and other remarkable venues included for good measure
The RS's rake - comprised of five Sleeper State Cars, two dining cars, a bar and observation car and one crew car, stood proud and most resplendent in her rich burgundy paint with brass and gold trim. Sadly, steam had given way to diesel. Progress? Bah.
Our private State Cabin was elegant. Edwardian era mahogany paneled marquetry suffused with fine damasks, soft carpets, plush upholstery, sparkling crystal wineglasses. When it comes to tasteful luxury RS compares favorably with our Orient-Express (Europe) and Great South Pacific Express (Australia) luxurious train voyages, however, RS beds do not convert into quite as comfortable daytime cabin settings.
En-suite showers sported heated fluffy towels, full-length wardrobes and large mirrors which make dressing for dinners quite fun. Hairdryers are provided, bathrobes, too, upon request. Individual cabin heating and cooling keeps you comfy, and there are vent windows, which open for a breath of fresh Scottish air. To ensure a peaceful night's sleep the train retreats to quiet rural railway sidings each night. Beds, singles, proved so comfy we needed wake up calls every morning.
Speeding out of the city, Edinburgh's lofty castle and fair Princess Street fell away as we journeyed west past Glasgow, then north for Arrochar and for our main excursion to the Inverawe Smokehouse. (A luxury motor coach follows the train by road to transport passengers to and from daily venues.)
Enroute we stopped at Spey Bridge to photograph the quiet town and its ancient stone bridge ruin. Built in 1717 and paid for by stipents from the Parish at Duthil, it was used to convey the dead to nearby church burying grounds.
At the celebrated salmon smokehouse, which lies adjecent to Inverawe House, we saw how salmon are smoked and packaged, then enjoyed tasty smoked delicacies, accompanied by an Australian wine tasting.
Back at at the train, freshly pressed evening clothes draped from hangers as we showered and changed for our first of two formal dinners aboard. (Tuxedo or kilt for gentleman, ladies cocktail or evening dress required.)
Poor Eileen's knit dress popped its sole neck button! Damn, wouldn't you know it had to break now. In the dim light she scrambled to sew the loop back together and eventually completed the temporary repairs.
Ah, but that wasn't the end of her frustrations.
As we made our grand entrance and sat down in the bar car, Eileen's diamond ring snagged her black tights like a trout on a favorite fly hook. In a flash a playful run traced its mischievous way down her leg past her shin, its white trail glaringly visible even in the soft lighting. Of course everyone noticed.
"Oh heck, give me a Scotch!" Eileen burst out to our bemused waitor as our sympathic gathering laughed, too, at her novel way of breaking the ice.
Next day we visited 12th century St John's Kirk in Perth where organist Ian Bennett honored our request for Bach's Toccata and Fugue in D minor. "I haven't played that in years" Bennett smiled as he rummaged through well-worn manuscripts. "A few notes may be missing, but here goes!" said he, launching into a fine performance which echoed richly round the old stone walls.
Daily excursions included private tours of Ballindalloch and Eilean Donan Castles, a morning exploration of a fascinating Highland Wildlife Park at Kincraig where wolves, highland deer, red squirrel and ancient Celtic horses roam amidst rugged splendor.
At Kinloch Lodge on the misty Isle of Skye we attended a cooking demonstration by world-renowned cook and author Lady Claire Macdonald, but we didn't get to sample what the good lady made! Unusual for cooking class visits.
During our expedition to the Strathisla Distillery we heard with shock that their third-generation master distiller, a silver haired lad now in his sixties, may be discharged next year to be replaced by a twenty-something year old computer nerd! Should this happen we certainly will never buy their whisky again.
Following every excursion passengers are welcomed back to the train by cheery stewards balancing silver trays of crystal goblets filled with warming drams; Hot chocolate laced with Cointrau, Colombian coffee with Bailey's Irish Cream and the likes.
During RS's romantic journey grand scenery and mysterious lochs often surround you. Once we spotted a regal stag watching from his heather-clad moorland while overhead flocks of noisy geese cried cheerily as they headed for their nightly roosting spot.
Underway the clackety-clack of steel wheels on old tracks made a musical cadence from the past while we joined fellow passengers on the rear open observation deck . Located ever so conveniently at the end of the bar car, this was to become everyone's pre-dining meeting place where we shared joyful chitchat, comical anecdotes or talked about future itineraries over endless champagnes. Running to rather tight railway schedules, there is sparse time for independent explorations other than as listed in RS daily venues.
One sparkling moonlit night after dinner we lounged contentedly on the rail of the observation car sipping Drambuie. Cotton ball clouds scurried past against the muted outlines of craggy peaks and the inky blackness of star-studded skies. Quite enchanting. Evening entertainment's included a lively concert by a kilted accordionist, then the romantic plucking of the ancient Clarsach (harp) both played in perfect Scottish moods. Of course anyone seeking solitude could chose a book from the splendid library and retreat to the comfort of one's cabin.
Imaginative table d'hôte dining joys included full Scottish breakfasts, splendid lunches and Five-Star Epicurean dinners. Wines, spirits and other beverages are included in the fare. Dining tables seat two, four or ten so you can opt for a private meal or join new travel companions as the mood takes you. We opted for group dining. How better to meet new friends?
Mind you billed as a Scottish train, and we proud Scots, we anticipated the zesty traditional national dish of haggis served with tasty mashed turnips and potatoes. Haggis, that 'chieftain of the puddin' race' as Burns wrote, is best enjoyed with a wee dram. Aye, the dram was fine however we had to settle for seared Scottish salmon.
Over the years we've explored Scotland by motorcycle, ferry, plane - once on a week-long expedition driving an exotic $190,000 Rolls-Royce Silver Spur on loan from the factory, you understand. Take it from us, train journeys through Scotland's thrilling highland landscapes simply can't be beat. And, apart from the glaring the lack of the cherished haggis, This Royal Scotsman rates top marks in our book.
Information and Bookings
Abercrombie & Kent International, Inc.
1520 Kensington Road, Oak Brook IL 60523-2141
Toll free 1-800-323-7308
The Royal Scotsman operates from April 24 through October 31 2000
Jim and Eileen Leggett are veteran train travel enthusiasts based in Matthews NC and Glasgow,Scotland.
