Diary of my trip to South America

SUN. 8 june 1997. Mtl-Houston-Panama City-Quito.
Up at 4 to go to the airport. More then 3 hours wait in Houston, ate my cheese sandwich. It took a while to get my boarding pass, the plane was overbooked. I sat beside a young man (17 years old) Pablo, who was going to visit family in Quito. We talked, he was very nice. Long trip, we couldn't move the back of our seats in our row. We stopped in Panama City for a short time. It was sunset, we could see the lights and highrises but the canal was on the other side. Finally in Quito after 9 PM, cool but not cold. I was very happy to see Janet with a sign with my name on it. Her son Francisco and her sister Nancy were there also. About 15 minutes in their old car to the house behind walls, Yolanda their mom had to come out to open the gates. We talked for a short while, Nancy showed me how to operate the electric shower, I drank a fresh juice. Went to bed, I'm exhausted and I've had an upset stomach all day, nerves.

MON. 9 june.
Slept well, with ear-plugs as my room is in the front of the house and it's very noisy. Nancy, who speaks English well, came to school with me on the bus, about 10 min, to show me the way. We walked on Avenida Amazona, touristic. Arrived at the school, Academia Atahualpa and met Martha the director, Sylvia, the secretary (paid her $630 US) and Lusmila my teacher, Marlene, another teacher and Hugo who is trying to be a teacher. He sat with us, but he speaks fast. We had a lesson and after tea and bread went for a walk around the school for orientation. Changed a $50 US, approx. 4000 sucres for $1 US. We had a lesson on money after lunch. Went for another walk and came back. Janet was waiting for me, we went to La Plaza Espiral, 9 floors in a spiral. Bus back. Relaxed for a while, then ate dinner. Mom talked with me about Ecuador, health, gave me drops of water of orange flowers. It's supposed to be calming. I could only eat a bit of my spaghetti but ate all the avocados (stomach still upset). Went to bed to relax and did my homework. Filtered water and went to bed at 10:15.

TUE. 10 june.
Slept well but felt cold then sweaty. Used my extra blanket. My stomach is still upset. Went to school alone, no problem. Reviewed the many forms of the past, difficult. Tea break, lunch break, talked with Marlene for a while, in the middle room with the big skylight. Lusmila and I went to the old city, we walked. Crossed Parque El Ejido (means public land), saw El Panecillo, Plaza de la Independencia, visited a church, library (very peaceful), took the trolley to terminal terrestre and back to the park. I took the bus home, she went back to the school. Siesta. Had steak, Janet talked with me.

WED. 11 june. More sun today.
A couple of young guys are taking classes today (from London and Germany). The British guy went to the jungle without his passport and was arrested. He lost his pack, camera. Lusmi and I took the bus to old city, San Francisco, tour of museum with guide, I understood some of what she said, saw the church, and a couple more churches, back by bus. Spent the evening in bed, homeworks.

THU. 12 june. Sun.
Met Cecilia who is taking me to Otavalo this week-end. Talked with the German guy. We went to a galleria with crafts by sick people. Bought a string bag 15,000 sucres, expensive. The museum was closed. Went to a health food store and bought capsules and tea. Walked to the polytechnic school where Lusmila studied, it's peaceful. We sat on a patio with a view of the mountains, city, a park. Talked. She waited for the bus with me. I'm not feeling well at all. Talked with mama, she looked at my pills, said they were good, at my water filter, made me tea in a cup and filled my water bottle. Suggested chicken soup for dinner. I went to bed, shivering and rested till 6. Ate all the soup but couldn't touch my dinner. Back to bed with my cup of manzanilla tea. Warmed up after a while. Did homework, took lomotil.

FRI. 13 june 1997.
Better night, took another lomotil and 1/2 a gravol. Felt better. Ate soup for breakfast, still no appetite. We left at 11 with the young couple, David, Marta and Lusmi. Walked for a while, took the bus to Mitad del Mundo. Interesting trip to the North of the city, about 1 hour. Big monument with a line for the equator. Tour of the building, stuff about the Indios, etc. Understood some. Ate humitas (mashed corn) and drank bottled water. Visited the 'France' pavillion. Started to pour with rain. Shared my umbrella with Lusmi. We sat together and talked on the bus. Walked back to the school in the light rain to get my dictionary. Walked back to the bus, got to my room and rested for a while. Ate soup and more steak. The 2 girls and mama ate a light meal with me. Read the Panama hat trail. Packed my day pack for tomorrow's trip.

SAT. 14 June 1997. Sunny AM, cloudy PM.
Mama made me eggs. Cecilia came by a little late and we took a taxi to the terminal terrestre and a bus to Otavalo (2 hours). We sat in the front. Interesting scenery, dry part, then a part with fruit plantations, a big lake. Went to hotel Otavalo, an old hacienda-like building, with bedrooms around an interior courtyard, now covered. We got a room with 3 beds, and a bathroom with shower that were added afterwards. Washed hands and walked around the market. Looked at Panama hats. Bought 2 silver llama pins, a fish for me, 3 beads (2 birds and a rat), 2 headbands with mini dolls. I bargained and Cecilia helped. I saw a lot of things I like but I only have so many $ and so much room in my luggage. We went back to the room for a little lie down. Had lunch, soup and some typical food. Took the bus from the terminal terrestre to Peguche and walked in a forest of eucaluptus to the waterfall. Very refreshing there and a nice waterfall. Met 3 tourists and some locals. In the bus, sat beside an old man in costume. He smiled. I told him we went to the cascada. Cecilia is limping. Went back to the market, bought Barry his Panama hat. Measured it with my measuring tape. It rolls up and goes in a wooden box, I picked the band too. I'm very pleased and it cost less then $10 U.S. Walked around the market a bit, bought 3 postcards. Back to the hotel, ate a fruit, Chirimoya and laid down for a while, read. Went for dinner @ 8 at Dona Esther (they speak French) and had a huge salad and water. Cecilia had coffee. Gave her 2 Advils for her leg pain.

SUN. 15 June 1997. Sunny.
Woke up at 5 AM. Finished the fruit. Ate at the restaurant next door, there's no one else there. Cecilia had bought a specialty wrapped up in a leaf, I tried it, it tasted good but had sugar. Had the first good coffee of the trip 'cafe pasado'. Put a few things in my net and took the bus to Cotocachi and a taxi to a national park and la Laguna Quicocha, a deep crater lake with clear waters. We took a boat (no life jackets) with a group of giggling Columbian girls. It went around islands with red plants, pampa grass, reeds in the water, very pleasant. Took a taxi back to Cotocachi and looked around the stores, beautiful leather work, can't afford any. Cecilia tried on a cape, I took her picture. She measured it and said she'll get it made in Quito, it'll be 1/2 the price. Walked through the small peaceful town and sat on a bench by the square and the church to wait for the bus. I sat beside a woman in traditional costume. To the hotel to wash hands and retrieve bags. Lunch at a small restaurant, soup, rice, beans, fish, a drink of milk and juice, mineral water. Couldn't finish. Started to wait for the bus but they're all so crowded that we took a taxi to the terminal terrestre and got on a bus right away. We sat in front of the videoscreen. It took a while to get going to the cries of 'Quito Quito' to drum up business. The screen blared sports. We finally left and they played 'Twister' with Spanish subtitles and the sound down. I can't watch it makes me nauseated. I prefer to watch the scenery, it's been clear all day and it's beautiful. Arrived in town and took a taxi home. Cecilia went to her home. She'll take me to Banos next week-end. Showed mama and the girls what I bought. Had dinner late, steak and chips and the eternal rice. Mama gave me some of her ice cream. Wrote Barry a fax, my diary. My homework is not inspiring.

MON. 16 June 1997. Sunny, warm.
Woke up at 5 again. Tired all day, a bit of nausea AM. Lusmi was sweeping when I arrived at school. Quiet there, Marta and Pedro only. We talked and laughed at break. He partied all night Saturday. David is in the Galapagos, we said we hope he won't loose his camera. Went to send my fax. Walked to Guapulo, a little village downhill from Quito, down some steep steps and streets. It's very nice, Lusmi says middle class, but I saw some expensive houses there, and a Jaguar. I thought it would be poor. We waited 20 minutes for the doors of the church to be opened, she asked a woman who unlocked it. Three European-looking women in a nice van with chauffeur also entered. Very pretty, small church, built 1644-1693, with gold, lots of flowers. Outside, statue of Francisco de Orellan, who made the first descent of the Amazon. Came back up another way, by bus. It's so close to the countryside, we saw a cow on the side of the road. When I came back home Yolanda told me that it's very close to the house, walking distance. She was making humitas, ground corn mixture wrapped in leaves and steamed. I took her picture in the kitchen. Had meat stew, rice, baked banana and a humita for dinner. All very good but I've eaten enough meat to last me a lifetime. Studied and wrote a composition on what I liked this weekend. Finished reading 'the Panama Hat Trail' by Tom Miller, excellent book. Filtered more water.

TUE. 17 June 1997. Mainly sunny.
It's no longer as cold at night and in the morning. Woke up at 10 to 6, an improvement. Not tired today. Walked on the Av. Amazona this morning to look in shop windows. When I found out that the bank opens at 8:30, I decided to go, it would be quieter than at lunch time. Changed $40 US for 157,600 sucres. I was 15 minutes late and Lusmi and Marta were wondering where I was because I'm always ponctual; I explained. We studied prepositions. Pedro interupted with 'it's coffee time', la hora de cafecito, chicas! We talked for a while. The phone is dead, I can't send an e-mail. Lusmi showed me pictures of school trips. We have to wait for Marta who went to enquire about the phone. Walked to the zoo, poor animals stuck in small cages: big condors, monkeys, colourful birds, bears that bite each other, lions with a three months old cub, huge turtles, bored-looking cats, a herd of llamas running around the zoo, everything is dirty. Came back via Av. Amazonas, bought postcards. Looked at t-shirts and finally bought 2 just across the street from the school (10,000 s for 2 t-shirts, 3 cards, one long 'Ecuador' sticker). Back at the school, still no phone. Showed Marta my purchases. Left, decided to go to the South American Explorer Club. Had a tour of the very nice big house. I had a e-mail from Silvie, what a surprise. To send e-mail, one has to book a computer, they're always busy. Came home, Janet was waiting for the bus across the street. Went to talk to her, she's going to visit an amigo and smelled of perfume. Showed mama my t-shirts. She said that the zoo is moving soon to a new one that is being built outside of the city. Wrote many cards. Ate more steak. Studied my past tenses and wrote my composition. In bed at 11, after filtering water.

WED. 18 June 1997. Mainly cloudy, sun later.
Woke up at 5, went back to sleep @ 6:30 and woke up with a start at 7. I had forgotten to set my alarm. Shower, bread for breakfast, bus. I'm the only student today, Pedro did not show up. Silvia came by in the morning but left. She spent some time with her family in a town close by (Santo Domingo de los Colorados). I went out at lunch time to confirm my plane ticket but the office of Air Bolivia is closed at lunch time. Left my postcards and 1000 sucres at a travel agency who will post them for me. I am worried that they will keep the money and not mail the cards (the cards arrived in Vancouver). I should have gone to the post office. The phones are still down in our sector, what a pain, I can't send e-mail or receive faxes, it is a third world country. Went to the Casa Cultura with Lusmi, very interesting antique artifacts of different tribes, lots of gold jewellry. A section on religion, sculptures and paintings. Neither of us liked the modern paintings (non-figurative). Very thirsty. Took the bus back. Told Yolanda I'm taking the bus very early to meet Lusmi at the terminal terrestre to go to Saquisili. She said I should take a cab. Rested for a while, tried to figure out my $. Ate more steak, the family went out. I tried to find the names of the herbs in my medication in the encyclopedia, but no luck. Cecilia came by, we talked for a while, gave her $90 US, she's getting a good deal, ah well! The family arrived, they all talked for a long time, I listened and understood some. Short homework. Lots of barking dogs.

THU. 19 June 1997. Cloudy and cool, sunny PM.
The clock did not ring again but I woke up. No shower. Asked for cheese with breakfast, no lunch. Took a cab to terminal terrestre. Waited for Lusmi at the wrong place, when I finally realized and found her, she was mad at me. The bus was almost empty but it filled up along the way. Lots of traffic to get out of town, trip of about 2 hours. Got off at the animal market, I took pictures of all kinds of animals, including llamas. Walked around there, watched men put a huge pig in a pick up and a tourist help a man to put a llama in his truck. In the small village I had to use the dirty and wet toilets, paid 300 sucres for a piece of toilet paper. Bought 10 beads and a small painting. Nice crafts, not as many as in Otavalo. Walked around the food market. Lusmi bought a bunch of small bananas then a kind of corn cake with cheese inside. It's very cold and windy, very colourful, dirty. She told me to carry my pack in the front. Walked around from 9:30 to noon. Took a bus back, she bought very juicy oranges. The bus is packed with people returning from the market. Got off downtown and took a bus to very near the school. I bought us lunch at a small restaurant. Went back to the school and did more future. Marta interrupted us, a man from Vancouver is interested in the school and asked me lots of questions. It felt almost akward to speak English. Went to the airline to confirm my flight. Came back to the school and e-mailed a few people. Hope I hear from them tomorrow. Walked on Av. Amazonas, waited a while for the bus and rode it all the way to the end of San Pablo, around and at the bottom of the hill. Steak. Homework.

FRI. 20 June 1997. Sun, then clouds.
Slept well, the clock rang. Croissant. Left early, at 20 to 8. Walked along Av. Amazonas, to the bank to change another $20 cheque. Walked back to the school and ran into the guy from Vancouver. Talked on the street then went into the school together. He took pics of Lusmi and I. She was printing my e-mail messages. Studied conditional. Marta went out with Pedro and came back with a fax from Barry. David came by, tried to confirm his flight for tomorrow but was told it's full. He spent the day at the airport. Lusmi had told him to confirm before going to the Galapagos but he doesn't listen. We went to the basilica and took the elevator, then the stairs, then a ladder with a young worker; great views of town but it's overcast so we can't see the volcanoes. Then the young man took us up the 2nd tower, over a wooden bridge and up more ladders. Incredible. Lusmi didn't know it was possible to go up the towers, she was impressed. We visited the church. One sees the statue of the Virgin on the Panecillo through the heart shaped window. Walked back (we had taken a crowded bus there, standing, to get there because it was uphill.) Walked through Park Alameda, there's a 'lake' with canals for boating. Went to a cafe Las Ensaladas that she said was clean. Had good juice, I paid. People around were eating great-looking sundaes, local people. Took my bus home. Washed some clothes by hand, Janet told me they're washing on Saturday, but I only have a little. Hung it up outside. Sorted out papers, packed for tomorrow. Had a kind of omelet with tuna? and tomato & green pepper salad. Ate it all, appetite is back.

SAT. 21 June 1997. Sunny, warm.
Cecilia and her daughter Jovi picked me up @ 8:30 in a taxi for terminal terrestre. Crowded bus to Banos. Great views of Cotopaxi. Sat beside Cecilia, then switched with Jovi for good views of the volcano. Sat beside a guy who pointed out the interesting sites but did not seem to have much of a voice. Jovi held a 1 month old baby for her Indian mother who was riding standing up, she likes babies. Interesting scenery, more lush, then we arrived in the mountains, beautiful. Passed through Latacunga, Ambato. In Banos @ 12.30. Walked to hotel Banos, got a room on the street with a balcony, off the passage. Interesting to watch the world go by. Went to a restaurant, had typical food, potatoes, different corn, pork. Took a bus, then sat in the front of a truck with the driver to view a nice fall. We did not go down and across the river to it but went back with the driver. We had to change from bus to truck and vice versa at the dam. Then we went to the zoo, a beautiful location on the side of the mountain, lots of room for the animals. We had a guide, a nice young man who is studying to be a tourist guide. Cecilia waited for us at the cafe. I liked the tapirs, they walk around the zoo. There are beautiful birds. Almost all the animals are in danger of extinction. Took a cab to the baths but they were being emptied. The water will be clean tomorrow. Walked down the hill, looking into gardens. Took a cab to town. Went into the basilica, the Virgin has a reputation for miracles. I prayed for the health of my family. Paintings of miracles on the walls. We looked in the little stalls across from the church. Went for humitas and coffee then rested for a while. Then went for dinner, I had an excellent veg. lasagna, no tomato, could not finish. Walked around town. Rode in the dragon, it was fun. To bed at 10:30 but people partied till 2:30. My earplugs helped some.

SUN. 22 June 1997. Sunny, warm.
We got up at 6 and went to the baths. Hot pool, the others went into the cold pool, then in the river, I couldn't, the water is ice-cold. Went for breakfast, soft boiled eggs, cafe con leche (instant in hot milk, not bad), pineapple juice. Walked around town, rode the dragon again, not as much fun during the day. Sat or stood on our balcony and watched the crowd. The 3 guys who were playing music last night were selling jewellry today, without success. Cecilia thought that the one with a beard and a conical hat is from Argentina and the other from Bolivia, one of them had a handsome face. Had lunch at the same restaurant, I had avocado with chicken salad, it was very good. Went back to get our bags. Waited for our bus in a cafe at the depot. Rode in a nice new bus (with reserved seating) in the front seats. Got off at the roundabout, took a cab and they dropped me off at home. The girls were busy washing the kitchen when I arrived. I washed the clothes I was wearing this week-end, my new T-shirt looses its dyes. Had a good dinner of potatoes, cheese, tomato, avocado, corn. Nancy said that Sylvia did not pay them for Monday night. I showed her my bill. She says Sylvia is always confused. Fell asleep @ 8:30 with the lights on.

MON. 23 June 1997. Sunny, warm.
Slept well till @ 6. Breakfast at about the same time, 7:30. Pumped water. Sorted out stuff. Left the house @ 9:30. Bus, then walked on Amazona. Looked around Libri Mundi but they don't have calendars. To school: fax from Silvie, e-mail from Greg. Gave the girls their candy from Banos. Sylvia came in with 2 aunts. Talked to one of them for a while. Said ciao to Lusmi and Martha and promised to write. Spent about 2.5 hours at the Magic Beans, first drinking an excellent coffee and writing postcards, then eating an excellent hot chicken sandwich with home fries, like at home. Sat inside by a window, the patio looked inviting. Spoke Spanish to the waiter who I'm sure spoke English. Mailed my cards. Wandered around up and down streets but I'm feeling hot and weak. Sat in the church for a while, no gold there. Asked at the cambio but they don't have Bolivian money. Looked around a shop, bought a postcard. To SAEC, read the latest Times. Old e-mail from Pierre (June 10). Hung around there for a while, gave them 5000s for the orphanage. I would not be good at travelling alone, my only free day and I hang out at safe places! Bus back, started packing, frankfurters for dinner, nice presentation around rice and corn-carrot salad. I've enjoyed Quito but I'm ready to move on. It's a strain to speak Spanish all the time. I hope that the group is pleasant and that I get along with my roommate.

TUE. 24 June 1997. Sunny.
Slept well. Started reading Caribbean, the morning went slowly. First said Adios to the father, who said to come back, then to Janet and Nancy. Mom made me a sandwich and waited at the gate till I got my cab. No problem at the airport, flight at 2. I was really early, read. Plane almost empty till Lima, I'm sitting on the "wrong" side to view the snowy peaks. Short stop in Lima, more people got on. Got to La Paz at 6:10, 7:10 local time. Saw an Explore tag, it's Sally our guide with 6 Britts. I'm so glad to see them. Went with them in a van, changed money on the street, they're doing repairs in the center of town. La Paz is bigger then we all thought. Some of us went out for a drink at the Pig and Whistle with Sally. I'm sharing a room with Heather from Australia, who's been here since Saturday but is not feeling that great. Took a while to go to sleep, it's warm.

WED. 25 June 1997. Sunny.
Heather had to wake me up, I slept through the alarm. Had a headache all night. Bath. Breakfast downstairs with Dominic and Alan. Bus for a tour, Valley of the moon, saw a column from Tihuanaco by the coliseum. A good viewpoint above the city, witches market (llama fetus), a music store. Some of us walked back, had a juice at the food market. I bought chicken, the girl put rice and veg in a plastic bag. Ate the chicken while walking. Back at the hotel with just enough time to go to the washroom. Back on the bus for a 2 hour trip to Tihuanaco. Ricardo explained everything well. The site needs lots of work, one has to use one's imagination. Fast trip back. The altiplano is beautiful in the setting sun. Bad traffic in town, there's a big soccer game, some of the group are going. Heather, Cyndra and I went to the nice Italian restaurant for pasta.

THU. 26 June 1997.
We left early for the ski resort of Chacaltaya, 5306 m. Scary bus ride, hairpins, sheer drops. Tried to hike up to the top but only made it halfway, the air is thin. Came back down, in town @ 1:30. Heather had a bad headache so laid down for a while, I wrote cards, a letter to Barry. Then we went to casa de cambio where I changed $200 US. Went to San Francisco church, then shopping. I bought a purple top & vest, 2 small wooden plates, a wall hanging for mom, llamas pins with Bolivia written on them, cards. Heather bought pan pipes, etc. Post office, she had them packaged and sent home. We all went out to Tango's, a long dinner. I sat beside Cyndra. Had fried trout but it's more like salmon. The 3 of us left early and went back to pack. Cyndra dropped her bottled water and it broke.

FRI. 27 June 1997. Sunny.
Left at 8, by bus across the altiplano. First close-up view of lake Titicaca then through the mountains to Sorata. Stopped at a small market town and walked around. Bought bananas and a chirimoya. Ate 1/2 of it on the bus, it's very ripe. Stopped a couple of times for pictures. Great scenery. Arrived at Sorata, it's "above the mosquitoes, below the frost line" to quote Sally. It used to be the gateway for the wealth of the jungle and La Paz, very lush, it's greener in the rainy season. Our hotel is an old but charming hotel from the '50s. 5 of us went out, first to eat after taking pictures by the square, poinsettias, palms, and snowy mountains behind, spectacular. We waited for a long time for our food on a terrace, my chicken sandwich was very good. Hiked down to the river, the women are washing clothes. We sat on rocks away from them. Then we decided to try coming back on the other side. We crossed a bridge of logs and started straight up. Dominic got sick and we were not sure where we were going so we came back the same way. Young Alan helped in slippery sections and offered to carry bags, very nice of him. Came back through the tiny town, people here are friendly and greet us. It's fun to ask directions and comment on things in Spanish. Back at the hotel, we had showers. Had about 1 hour to do things then we walked to the Italian restaurant in the dark. I asked 2 women where it was. I had a beer and an excellent pizza (enough left for lunch tomorrow).

SAT. 28 June 1997.
Had a nice breakfast of yogurt, papaya, fresh OJ, bread and good cafe con leche in the big dining room. Then the waiter asked if we wanted eggs! We walked to the town square and waited for our truck for a while. We all got in the back of the Toyota and drove up about 30 minutes to a village up the ridge. Walked mainly downhill. It's a perfect day, warm but not hot. Gorgeous views of Mt Illampu covered with snow, cultivated fields, the rio at the bottom, people working in the fields. We had a long rest somewhere because we were early. Very pleasant day. Sally said we are a good group, no complainers. Went in a cave, a generator lights up the bulbs. Quite narrow and low, then it opens up and there's a lake. We don't know why it's warm inside. The truck arrived almost on time, we gave an Ausie a ride, he's staying at a hotel downtown. Cyndra, Heather, Dominic and I had lunch there. They have a beautiful garden and we looked around at the rooms. It must have been beautiful in its heyday, now it's rundown but $4 a day. Took pictures of huge snake skins. Bought a small wallhanging then a blanket at a stall. It's market day, Cyndra bought coca leaves from a woman hoping to be able to take her picture but the woman refused. We looked at spices, fish, meat, lots of people. I bought an avocado. Back at the hotel for showers and washed all the clothes we wore today, it was very dusty. Most of the group went back to the Italian restaurant. The 4 of us ordered our dinner here at 6 to be ready at 7:30. We sat outside for a while then came in and sat in the living-room. Nina built us a fire. Then we had dinner served by a young man in a bow tie, with perfect serving skills. It was a different soup, asparagus instead of tomato, and we all got french fries, 2 glasses of wine instead of 1 but Heather drank the 2nd. The fried bananas and fried chicken were very good. Then Cyndra and I had camomile tea and Dominic and Heather had coffee. We left the young man a good tip, after I had to explain that we needed to pay now and not tomorrow. We had a very pleasant evening. We were leaving when the others arrived, it's raining slightly. They went to the disco, I had something in my eye so I went back to the room. Heather came in shortly after. Packed

SUN. 28 June 1997. Cloudy.
It was raining and foggy when we got up. We worried about the mountain roads. Jimmy our bus driver, arrived almost on time, he had a shattered windshield which he had replaced with plastic and a small hole to see through. We all felt a bit (or a lot) nauseated. We stopped at the cattle market. Followed lake Titicaca till Copacabana. Nice hotel. Did a lot of shopping, a vest, 3 little hats. After dinner I felt ill. Felt very cold when I went to bed and slept poorly.

MON. 29 June 1997. Cloudy then sunny.
Felt sick all day. Walked for 2 1/2 hours then Alfredo walked back to town to get me a taxi. I waited on the path above the road. The taxi came and I got a ride to the little harbour of Yumpupata where I waited 2 hours. Dozed off above on a path for a while (the diamox Alan gave me made me sleepy) then sat on the beach. The kids talked to me a bit. One boy runs to Copacabana every morning to go to school, 2 hours. The group arrived and we took a boat to the Island of the Sun. Got to the hostel, dorms, went to bed with all my warm clothes on, sleeping bag, extra blanket. Could hardly eat any dinner but slept very well.

TUE. 1 July 1997. Rain AM, then sun.
Felt fine today, ate a hard boiled egg and drank coca tea. We walked first to the ruin next door then walked across the island, it took all day. Beautiful scenery but it's hard walking up. Stopped at Alfredo's mom's and took pictures of her kitchen and bought some of her crafts. Visited other ruins at Chincana. A shaman was getting ready to do a ceremony for a group of tourists travelling on a huge catamaran. He explained it to us and let us take pictures for 1 boliviano. Got to our destination, dorm upstairs with either hard or lumpy beds. We're on a bay in a tiny village (Challapampa) with nice views. I wish I could eat but I have no appetite.

WED. 2 July 1997. Sun.
I'm coughing, throat dry and irritated, the air is so dry here. We took a boat (1 hour) to Isla de la Luna where we visited the ruins of the convent. Young girls were taught to weave, cook, etc., to serve the high Inca. Sally said "the lucky ones were sacrificed". We sat around there for a while and Sally talked about being a tour leader. Norman talked about an awful man they had on a trip. We walked to the top of the island, it took me forever, I can't breathe. Sat around the cross and Sally took group pictures with all our cameras. We walked down to the little village where the boats are waiting for us. The children are fascinated by us especially when the men had a rock skipping contest on the lake and we all cheered. Alan skipped it 10 times! Back on the boats, Sally went to the front and stripped down to her bikini, Dominic who was on the other boat threw water at her. Back for lunch after 2. Still can't eat much and feeling sleepy. Went to bed and felt very cold for a while. Finally warmed up and slept on/off for about 2 hours. Cyndra had given me a fructose cookie, what a treat. Got up @ 5. Norman was making paper airplanes with the local kids and making them fly them. I took a picture. I sat on a chair in the sun on the landing intending to write postcards but all the local boys crowded around me so I showed them my cards and ended up talking with the oldest one who was quite articulate. The others arrived, Dominic made them helicopters. I got cold so I put on all my warm clothes, sat outside at the table and wrote a bunch of cards. At dinner, Sally marvelled at my address labels. I have bronchitis so started taking my penicillin. Went to bed at 9 but took a while to get organized. Tried to breathe through a wet hanky to help with the dry throat. Got up at 6, at dawn, to go to the bathroom. There's only a small crescent of moon but the whole moon is visible, never seen it like that. Cyndra was admiring it from the steps. Back to sleep till almost 8.

THU. 3 July 1997. Sunny.
Ate an apple with cheese, a bit of bread and egg and did feel ok. Hopefully the bronchitis won't be too bad. Got our stuff ready and left before 10 in 2 boats. Had the usual water fights, Norman videoing the whole thing. The drivers seem to get into it as well. It's beautiful on the water, clear lake, saw the whole of Isla del Sol. I'm coughing but feeling ok. Did more shopping in Copacabana, bought 3 T-shirts for presents, 3 little pen cases. I'm out of breath. We went out for delicious pizza, Heather and I shared a vegetarian. I'm cold so walked back to the hotel with Sally who is booby trapping Dominic's room with all our alarm clocks. Went to bed with all my clothes on, took Tylenol, I have a fever. I turned on all the lights in the hope of warming up the room. Heather arrived, we sat in bed and talked till 11.

FRI. 4 July 1997. Sunny.
Took a nice, modern bus to Puno. Stopped at both borders to get passport stamped then changed $. Got to our hotel after 12, another freezing room up on the 3rd floor and I have trouble breathing. Margaret, Norman and I got sandwiches from the hotel. On a smaller bus to the lake side then a boat to the floating Uros islands. I can't breathe, bronchitis and altitude. Felix is our guide, Sally did not come. Bought a wallhanging, 14 s. I'm getting really tired, laid down in the boat on the way back. The boys helped me with pack, etc. Bought fruits before going back to the bus and the hotel to drop me off and pick up Sally and Alan, (they're on their way to the funerary towers). I went to bed with all my clothes on, felt hot in bed, freezing out. Could not sleep, it's too noisy and I'm parched. I wish I was home. Finally got up and filtered some water but I'm clumsy and spilled some. Went downstairs at 6:20, they had just arrived and were trying to order dinner at the hotel. I helped to translate. There was some kind of problem with Jane. We will have dinner at 7. Climbed back upstairs. Heather had a shower. Had spaghetti soup, ate the broth and some noodles, then had fries and boiled carrots and green beans. Could not finish it so asked for a plastic bag, the waiter thought I was crazy. I said to him "los gringos son locos", he smiled. Had a lukewarm shower and went to bed. We got a heater and left it on all night. The air was so dry, I kept waking up and coughing.

SAT. 5 July 1997.
Short bus ride to the train station. Arrived 45 minutes early and sat in our carriage. We had 3 sets of 4 seats with a table. We can put all the luggage behind the seats (Pullman class). Our coach got shunted all over the station and we ended up turned around. We left just about on time at 8 AM. The train crawls along the shore of lake Titicaca to Juliana where it takes on more cars. The whole journey took 13 hours. Sally said it was the shortest time. Last time they arrived in Cusco at 2 AM, we arrived at 8:20 PM. It's interesting scenery up on the altiplano. The train apparently stops 24 times, some very small places, others bigger. Chectuyoc had some old abandoned Victorian buildings. At Sicuani, we're at about 200 km from Puno and 140 km from Cusco, a sign says. Coughed a lot. We went from flat altiplano to rolling hills to snow peaked mountains. Saw llamas, cattle, sheep. Had 2 soups, one very salty mushroom for lunch and one not very good tomato for dinner, I added my veggies to it. We all got antsy when the sun went down. In Cusco, went for a bus tour of the square, beautiful city , some of the buildings are built on Inca wall ruins. To the hotel Portals, dropped off luggage, met Sally in the lobby and went for BBQ chicken next to the square. I'm tired but surviving.

SUN. 6 July 1997.
Slept poorly because I'm so thirsty. Shower. Breakfast at the hotel. Bought cheese, had to wait for the change. To the square to watch the raising of the flag, a very elaborate ceremony with all kinds of people marching, nurses, kids, soldiers. Then to the Bagdad Cafe upstairs. I had a papaya juice, Heather, a banana milkshake. We watched the end of the parade. Later Norman, Margaret & Dominic came upstairs It took a long time to get their drinks because Dominic ordered a chocolate milkshake. He got hot coco! We met Sally and the rest in front of the cathedral and walked up narrow side streets where we sat upstairs on a terrace. Sally has been joined by her boyfriend Paul. Some people had cuy, I had stuffed peppers, very good but only ate about 1/2. The bus picked us up at 1:30 and we went to Pisac. It's cloudy now. We got dropped off at the top and only needed to go up to see some ruins. I'm very slow on the uphill. It's an incredible location, on top of a peak. Walked down to some other ruins with perfect fit of the stones. Then we all walked down between Sally and Paul to the market in Pisac. They're packing up. Bought some little metal figurines to put on necklaces and a big avocado. Walked around. Cyndra liked a wall hanging from far, but not so much from close. I laid down on my seat on the way back, I'm so tired. Heather wanted to get off at the square so we did and went in a restaurant for soup. Her soup was good but my chicken soup took a long time and the noodles were starchy, the chicken well cooked. Could not eat much. Back to the hotel to pack.

MON. 7 July 1997.
Got up at 4 AM, were down at 5 for breakfast but the lady never showed up. Got on a bus at 5:30 to the station. We're on the first coach. It switches back and forth to get up and out of the valley, interesting to watch. Nice views along the way but it got really cold. We put all our clothes on. Got 2 buns with cheese and cake in Styrofoam. The train filled up about half way there so Heather came back. Sally pointed out Aqua Calientes and the pizza place she likes but we went on to Machu Pichu station and had a mad rush to get off the train and onto buses. Cyndra and I got on the 2nd bus. We checked our luggage (10:30) and went in Machu Pichu. We all stripped down to t-shirts and shorts, it's hot and sunny here. Sally suggested we hike up to a good viewpoint. Cyndra and I were very slow, she's got bronchitis too. We sat at that great viewpoint for at least 1/2 hour. We can see all the ruins. Then I went to see the Inca drawbridge where the rest of our group went. They were all coming back. I was just about alone on the trail, very pleasant and shady. The bridge is an incredible feat of engineering, they piled up stones from the bottom along a rock wall. I can't figure out where the trail goes after, it peters out. The trail is blocked anyway. Had lunch there then came back. Slowly descended into the ruins. 5 of the group went up the small mountain. I joined Dominic and Cyndra and we wandered around. We met up at the terrace outside the ticket office to wait for the hikers. I had my boots "shoe shined" for 2 soles, he did a good job. The hikers were overdue so we took a 3:30 bus down to Agua Caliente as we know we're staying at Gringo Bill. Got rooms, then Dominic, Cyndra and I went in search of the farmacia, she wants penicillin. It's uphill. She got amoxicillin, no need for prescription here. Went for pizza in the square, the one by the tracks is closed for inventory. I had good Hawaiian pizza with thin crust. Debbie and Martina joined us, then they went to the hot springs. The 3 of us sat around. The waiter came around to clean the table and threw out my leftovers, I was disappointed. Went back to the room to give Cyndra a banana then went for a wander around hoping to find lunch for tomorrow but there's not much. Went to bed with all my clothes on to read, it's cold here too. Got ready for bed, Heather arrived @ 9:30. I was starting to doze off.

TUE. 8 July 1997.
Slept very well till 4 when I thought someone knocked on the door. Bathroom then went back to sleep till around 5. Ate an apple and some cheese, got packed up and went down to the restaurant for coffee. Did not have time to finish it. Walked to the bus, there's a French group too (6:30). Had a 2 hour tour of the ruins with Pancho who looks Inca and is very interesting and knowledgeable (organic architecture, yearly sun dial, water fountain, Sun temple). It's great up there before the train arrives, quiet. We enjoyed the sunrise. After the guide left us, we sat around for 1/2 hour then Alan went up the peak to beat Sally's record. Heather and I went up some terraces to look at the ruins and we tried to see Alan on top. He did it in 15 min. 3/4. We met them to find out. Hung around more, looked at the warehouses. Left Heather at 1:30 to catch the bus back. Dominic was there at the stop, they had been waiting for a while. Got back to town, ran into Cyndra who was going for a walk. Sat outside at the same restaurant and ate a chicken sandwich and drank a pineapple juice (diluted). Caught up in my writing. 2 German women are sitting beside me. One bought earrings, people are walking to us with stuff. I bought ceramic earrings, she suggested I get the hook changed which I did. She asked how long it takes to walk up. I suggested they go by the first bus tomorrow morning, it's better without the crowd. Everyone is arriving and joining me. Got bag from hotel. Train. Sat beside Dominic who slept most of the time and has a fever. Cyndra gave him Tylenol but Sally got upset at us for giving him medication when "we're not doctors". She had a doctor come to the hotel who confirmed our diagnostic: bronchitis. He should take his penicillin, no pop, no tomato juice. Heather and I went to a restaurant near the hotel associated with the hotel, nice with tablecloths. Had delicious chicken in orange sauce, one of the best meals I've had here.

WED. 9 July 1997.
Got on a bus with Anna-Maria, went to Saquaysaman, walked around there, saw the site of the tower, the astrologico-agricultural calendar. The walls survived the conquistador attacks because they were huge blocks, many tons. Back on the bus for the limestone maze and Tambomachay, the water temple and Puca Pucara, the watchtower. Back to Cusco, us 3 girls got off at the square. We changed more $. Cyndra was looking at gourds, we each bought one, a necklace, a postcard from the same kid who shoe-shined my boots and a small watercolour of calle San Blas. Talked to the guy who painted it for a while, he studied painting for 7 years. He had also painted big pictures of shamans dancing, they were really eye-catching. Had lunch in a restaurant, a small ham and cheese sandwich. Met Anna-Maria for our walking tour at 2:30 in front of the cathedral. Peter did not come, neither did Dominic and Alan (they're sick), Sally & Paul. Looked at different churches and walked up San Blas. We're really tired by now. Back to the hotel for a snooze then dinner with the group. I had a stir fry but didn't eat much of it.

THU. 10 July 1997.
Great, we don't have to rush this morning. After breakfast we sat in the solarium, I wrote 2 cards in Spanish, to Lusmi and to Nohemi, my Vancouver Spanish teacher. Dominic is better, he's bored. Dominic, Heather and I left Cyndra to her writing. We went to confirm our flights at Condor travels, the agency Sally deals with. Talked to her contact who said she phoned Lima and Lima will confirm. Hope it works. Heather and I went around what we thought was the archeology museum but it was only 1 room. Dominic went back to the hotel to get his entry pass. We walked through the streets and looked at shops and visited the Santa Catalina museum, mostly Saints pictures, in an old monastery. To Plaza de Armas to meet Dominic. Had the set lunch at Bagdad cafe, soup, spaghetti, banana with syrup and tea. Cyndra arrived with 2 little girls in costumes, she bought them sandwiches. Heather and I went to the archeology museum. Had to pay 5 soles but it was worth it, very interesting with Inca and Spaniard stuff. Looked in shops and tried on hats, I bought 3, a wool beret, a crocheted hat and a Peruvian baseball cap. Back to the hotel for a rest. Decided I want the belt I saw for Barry. We walked back there, it's nice but expensive, 37 soles. Met Sally and Paul at Cross Key pub, I had a beer. Margaret and Norman joined us, very pleased with their rafting trip. They got soaked. We went to a restaurant at the corner. After dinner, we all went to Cross Key but it's too smoky so Cyndra and I left after giving Alan 20 s. which he will give Sally tomorrow. Paul said she would prefer $ to a gift. We did our last loop around the plaza, looked at the vendors' stuff and went back to the hotel.

FRI. 11 July 1997.
5 o'clock wake-up call, we're almost packed. Went to breakfast then bus to the airport. Heather was able to get a cash advance in $US from the machine, she was happy. Alan gave Sally her money. He's going to La Paz, then back to U.K. We said goodbye and boarded our flight to Lima. I have a window seat. Had a plastic lunch and tea. Read my Conde Nest article on a visit to Cusco and Machu Pichu and gave it to Heather. Arrived in Lima (55 minutes), the luggage did not take long. Got on our bus, it's humid but not too hot. 40 minutes ride to Miraflores. Heather is sick so she went to bed. I rested for a while then joined Sally, Paul, Margaret, Norman, Dominic and Cyndra for a walk to the next street and ceviche. I had white fish and it was very good. On our way back to the hotel, we talked to a young couple who were mugged on the path to the beach this AM. The 4 of us went down to Parque del Amor where we can see down to the beach and the waves. Hung out there for a while then walked back. I bought a yogurt and 2 buns for breakfast tomorrow. To the bar on the pier by taxi. We sat on a couch, I faced the windows and enjoyed the crashing waves. Taxi back to the square to go to the pizzeria, a Swiss restaurant. Lots of traffic, the driver went back streets and it took forever. Had duck a l'orange on Sally's recommendation and it was delicious. Started saying goodbye to people, most of them are leaving at 4:30 AM for the airport.

SAT. 12 July 1997.
Slept well till 4, got out of bed to hug Heather. Hope everything goes well for her, she was a good roommate even though sometimes she talked too much. Went back to sleep after she left. We were ready at 9, I packed everything in case I have to move. Peter poked his head out and said he just woke up. I paid for the next night and can stay in the same room. We left, I changed all my US $ on the street. Then we went to a grocery store and bought stuff for lunch, pizza, pepino dulce, olives, OJ. Got on the bus to the university. Asked a policeman for the way to Punta Hermosa, it's down steps to the highway, like Paul and Sally had said. Got on a bus for a long ride, saw favellas on the outskirts of town, then the ocean but it's still a long way to our destination. There's a fiesta going on in Punta Hermosa, lots of young people in school uniforms, marching bands. Finally got to the beach, crashing waves, people sunbathing, good-looking women in bikinis. Cyndra sat on a big rock, I sat in the shade to eat, Peter laid on the beach, Dominic sat on a bench. Then we all joined Cyndra on the rock. Great views, boogie boarders, it's overcast now. I forget it's winter in Lima, lots of the houses are boarded up and it's relatively quiet. The local kids in uniforms came by, giggling. We sat there for about 2 hours then went for a walk on the beach and on boardwalks. Came back up the same way as there's no way to get up to the highway. We stopped at toilets and had to pay 50c to use them. A bus stopped and said Lima, I said 'un momentito' and they waited for us to finish our business! The trip back seemed shorter, maybe because it's familiar. Saw some ancient ruins and Cyndra talked to a man about them. We all went back to the hotel for showers. Read my book for a while. Peter left to go to the youth hostel. We met up again at 7:15 in the park and went to a local restaurant that Paul recommended. We had the special, soup, chicken in the oven with rice, apple pie. It was good and much cheaper than last night (8s). Peter had a waffle next door, the rest of us looked at the paintings on the street and met again to look at crafts. Went to the bakery to buy rolls for breakfast. Back to the hotel, I'm very tired and went to bed.

SUN. 13 July 1997.
Woke up at 6, car alarm or something. Could not go back to sleep, what a pain. Packed, showered, ate, watched TV. Moved my bags to Cyndra's room. Peter met us and we took a cab to Plaza de Armas, downtown Lima. It's not too crowded, it's Sunday. Took a tour of Francisco cathedral and the catacombs, full of bones. Lunch at 'Machu Pichu' then walked around to find the old bridge. There are soldiers around the house of Parliament. Found the old bridge, nothing much to look at, not much of a river. Walked on a side street with postcards vendors. Back to Plaza de Armas, Peter found the way to Arequipa Avenue on his map and we walked on a road for pedestrians only. It's early so Cyndra talked us into going to the movies, the Saint in English with Spanish subtitles. It's cute, sometimes the sound is so bad that I had to read the subtitles. Found the next plaza then Ave. Arequipa, we congratulated Peter on his navigational skills. Caught a bus to Miraflores right away. Checked out the cinema there, Cyndra wants to see Hercules another time. Walked through the park, Peter wants a waffle, I, a coffee, I'm sleepy. The little place is closed so we went to a proper cafe. I had a delicious cafe cortado, like an espresso with milk. Peter had a beer and Dominic, a milkshake. Back to the hotel to wash my hands and to get changed. I did not feel like having a shower. The boys and I left for the restaurant, Cyndra did not want to come. We all ate spaghetti. A little boy came to our table and the waitress gave him leftover spag. He, his little sister and his mom ate my leftovers sitting on the curb. We felt so bad about it. I told the young woman to wait, that Peter would buy them bread. I could not understand her well. Dominic gave her 10s. Said goodbye to Peter. Back to Cyndra's room, we watched TV a little, then they both came downstairs with me. Got my stuff out of the safe. The hotel had called me a cab, twice as much as on the street, but much safer. It was there already so we all kissed and I got in the nice car, with English music playing loud. I'm nervous but everything went well. I was at the airport @ 8:30 for my 11:30 flight and got a window seat.

MON. 14 July 1997. Hot, damp.
Slept a bit on the plane. Got to Newark, just enough time for a leisurely connection with Air Canada to Toronto. In Toronto, everything went fast, I would have had time for the 12 o'clock Rapidair to Montreal, but my luggage would not so I decided to wait for my 1 o'clock. Maman and Silvie were waiting for me, told them I'm dying for salad. I managed to stay awake till 9 PM then slept almost 12 hours.

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