CONTENTSDiary extracts of the expedition
July
15 London to Vancouver; night on school floor
16 Vancouver to Williams Lake by rail; night on school floor
17 Williams Lake to road head by coach; night at transit camp
18 Transit camp to base camp (18kms walk); night at base camp
19 - 21 Orientation/Training/Carrying;night at base/transit camp
22 - 24 Science recce and establish camps; nights at science camps
25 - 31 Science work; nights camping as appropriate
August
1 - 10 Science work
11 Resupply for adventure; night at base camp
12 - 21 Adventure phase; nights somewhere
22 - 23 Clean pack and move out; nights at base/transit camps
24 Bella Coola Ferry; night Ferry terminal
25 Travel Vancouver Island; school floor in Victoria/Vancouver
26 Day in Vancouver; Travel late pm Van to LHR, night on aeroplane
27 Arrival LHR am.
It was stressed in the expedition handbook in which this schedule was contained that it was only a possible outline program and we soon learned how changes, hiccups and "logistical impossibilities" would all affect and alter this plan.
It was with some sadness because I would not see my friends or family for six weeks, and a little apprehension, that I went through the departure gate at Belfast International Airport for the 9:30am British Midland flight to London Heathrow. While sitting in the departure lounge I was approached by another fellow similarly dressed as myself (hiking boots and expedition clothing with daysack in hand). It was Jon from Bangor who was also going on the expedition. We soon boarded the plane and we were not seated close to each other so we arranged to meet as we got off in Heathrow. After the safety announcement the flight took off on time. It was the first time I had been on an aeroplane but the flight wasn't too bad - we went through some turbulence but I was able to eat the breakfast that was served me and before I knew it we had landed and I met up with Jon and we headed for the baggage reclaim. After we had retrieved our rucksacks we headed for terminal three on the terminal bus (we found out on our return that there is a walkway between the terminals). As soon as we entered into terminal three we were faced with a mass of blue Fruitini sweatshirts and kit bags which allayed fears we had about finding everyone else. We were soon introduced to our groups (fires) and started to get to know the people (most of them had met each other at the briefing in Hathersage which I was unable to attend). Everyone was excited about the forthcoming six weeks but still a bit sad at leaving family and friends. There were 84 Young Explorer's (YE's) in total and 18 leaders.
Shortly after 12:00 noon we started moving through security and passport checks. We boarded the Boeing 747 at about 3:20pm and after take-off we were soon above the clouds. The flight lasted nine hours but because we were flying with the sun we landed at 4:45pm after two nice meals, some splendid views and even some sleep. It was suggested that since it didn't rain throughout the flight that we should spend the whole six weeks in the stratosphere (we were above the clouds!). It took us a long hour to get through security checks in Vancouver airport in a stuffy lounge but once through we soon got the buses loaded and we set off for the 25 minute drive to Shauaghnessy Elementary School where we were to spend the night on the gym floor. Some of us went for a walk down towards the centre of Vancouver before bed. We got to bed about 9:30pm - over 22 hours since I had got up - that's what I call a long day!
Friday 16th July - Day 2
After such a long day it was an extremely short night - we were up, packed and ready to go at 4:28am. By 7:30am we had travelled by school bus to the train station and were busy loading the train with all our kit ready for the 315 mile journey. It was raining and overcast but not too cold. The journey took us through a great variety of scenery and landscapes from the plush suburban houses of north Vancouver, to densely wooded hills and steep gorges, to near desert with sparse vegetation, and finally to William's Lake. It had cleared up during the day and we had some nice views but the heavy rain had come on again as we approached our destination and we had to unload the train and carry our kit the mile uphill to the school where we were to spend the night in heavy rain. It didn't make six weeks in the wilderness seem very appealing!
Our evening meal was bought in for us - 104 Big Mac's, fries and coke from Macdonalds. After a day with not very much to eat this sounded quite nice but cold fries and Big Mac's are not that tasty!
Saturday 17th July - Day 3
After a more reasonable nights sleep (9:30pm until 6:20 am) we were up and having breakfast. The coaches arrived at 8:00am to take us on the precarious journey through the Heckman Pass and down to the start of the four wheel drive track where our expedition proper would begin - much of the journey was through beautiful scenery and as we climbed up to the pass we caught our first glimpse of snow-covered mountains. We stopped for lunch and again when we entered Tweedsmuir Provincial Park near the top of the Heckman Pass.
At 3:30pm the buses pulled up at Atnarko Campground at the Hunlen Falls/ Turner Lake Trailhead. We got off the bus in blazing sunshine, collected our rucksacks and then walked to transit camp which was 7km up the four wheel drive tote road. Transit camp was in a large uncut meadow beside the Atnarko river, there was an abandoned log cabin in the meadow and we were able to use the range in it. As we arrived we were issued with tents, cookers, Kelly kettles and other group equipment by the advance party. After a while they even had some food prepared for us - stew, potatoes and chocolate bars. We soon got our tents up and the camp organised and the mosquitoes soon found us. We were able to go for a swim in the river and do some washing before a briefing at 9:30pm. We were told of the plans for the next few days - moving equipment up to base camp.
It was from here that the plans started going wrong, several people had been ill during the travelling and it was thought that it was just due to the travelling but that was not the case. On Sunday 18th July we had another briefing in the morning from the Park Ranger on what we were likely to encounter and see, and on how we should care for the environment. We were then instructed on how to use the high frequency radios. After lunch we were ready to depart at 2:30pm for Stillwater lake (about 7km further down the trail) on an equipment run. It was a hot day and our fire set off last at 3:00pm (we were Fire 7 out of seven Fires). All along the route there were people who were having difficulties - they weren't feeling well and were exhausted. Many people had to turn back but I was feeling all right and made it to Stillwater for about 6:00pm. I unloaded the science equipment and food that I had been carrying and headed back for transit camp. At the end of the four wheel track there is a bridge across a river and as I approached it I saw that there was some commotion at the other end. A fellow YE from one of the other fires had collapsed and was lying, shivering, semi-conscious on the ground. Other members of his fire had put him in a bivvy bag and Jean, one of the nurses on the expedition, was inserting a saline drip. I had to hold the saline solution and gently squeeze it as we waited for the four wheel drive to arrive. Eventually the pickup arrived and the patient (Joe) was lifted onto the back - he was then followed by as many tired bodies as could fit on. I had to walk back and arrived at 9:20pm!
After that incident (which was probably the most serious medical situation that arose and Joe had recovered by the next day) it was decided that the illness must be a virus that someone had brought with them. All those who hadn't been ill were given the next day off to be ill and those who had been ill and were sufficiently recovered continued with supply runs. I was queasy for a day and vomited just before I went to bed but I didn't suffer as much as most people (everyone eventually got it).
Tuesday 20th July - Day 6
We were up later than planned (6:17am) and were the last to leave transit camp at 8:32am after some breakfast and getting packed. We got to Stillwater in only two and a half hours and I saw 2 bald eagles, some deer and a squirrel on my way. There we had some lunch before we faced the daunting "switchbacks" - these were the method of climbing 750m (2200ft) in 2km. They were zigzags cut into the hillside and they seemed to go on for ever (there were 78 of them!). We trudged up them in about 2 hours and rested at a viewpoint overlooking the end of Stillwater Lake thinking we were nearly at basecamp - unfortunately it was still 4 hours away. The sky started to cloud over and then it started to rain so it was with somewhat dampened spirits that we reached the end of Turner Lake only to be told that our base camp was round the other side, about 40 minutes walk away. By now it was getting quite dark as we followed our way along this much less obvious trail. A stranger approached seemingly out of the woods, his face was that of a native Indian and he was wearing a BC Parks baseball cap and he introduced himself as Marty, one of three park wardens who had a camp by Turner Lake. Another one of the wardens was in a small speedboat out on the lake and he came into the bank and gave us a lift to our base camp - it was our lucky day!
When we arrived at base camp, Tom, one of our fire leaders who had come up the previous day, showed us where our camping and cooking areas were. We tried to clear some ground of rocks and put up our tent (it was now completely dark). Everyone was so tired that they couldn't really be bothered cooking food but eventually we each got a few mouthfuls and went to bed tired and dirty at 10:54pm after caching our food up a tree.
The next few days were spent "humping and dumping" kit up from Stillwater to basecamp. Then followed two days resting, planning, washing and sorting as well as a visit to the nearby Hunlen Falls, they are the second highest water falls in Canada - 261m (780ft) and are quite spectacular. On Sunday 25th July we set off towards our base camp. We made it up to Ptarmigan Lake only to find that we had lost one of our fire - Alex. We worked out that he must have taken a wrong turning at Ptarmigan Dome and headed for Echo Lake instead of Ptarmigan Lake. The radios came in very useful and survey fire were able to tell us when Alex arrived with them at Echo and that he was safe and well - although he wasn't popular.
On Monday 26th July half the fire (including me) went back down to basecamp to get the rest of the food and the other half headed for Molly Lake. To save weight we didn't take tents down with us but slept the night under a shelter made from a large tarpaulin, one of which each fire had been issued with. On Tuesday we loaded up with food and walked back up to Ptarmigan lake with a plan of continuing on to Molly lake to meet the others who should have done two runs to Ptarmigan and moved our personal gear to Molly Lake. When we arrived at Ptarmigan lake we discovered that the trip over to Molly Lake was not as easy as it looked on the map and the other group had only managed one trip. To complicate things our adventure training had been timetabled for the next two days and it was over at Echo Lake. After much discussion it was decided that the six that had done the supply run would go over to Echo from Ptarmigan, would do the training and then the alpine start and then go back to base to collect our eleven day food ration. The other five would go back to Molly lake and continue the science work and do their adventure training at a later date.
We went over to Echo and erected our tents on the bleak, windswept mountainside surrounded by peaks and glaciers. At the 6:00pm radio sked there was a change of plan again - the rest would join us tomorrow and do the alpine start the next day without the training.
Wednesday 28th July - Day 14
Up at 7:45am for a breakfast of tinned bacon and herrings which was, surprisingly, very nice and at 10:00am we went over to the adventure leaders (Wendy and Jon) tent ready for training. We were taught various knots - bowline, alpine butterfly, figure of eight, etc., and then moved on to harnesses, helmets and ice ices. We then moved on to belaying and security on steep slopes. After lunch we moved to a small patch of snow were we practised using crampons, walking on snow and ice axe arrests - this is stopping yourself with an ice axe when you start sliding down a slippery slope towards rock and certain death! It was great fun!
We had a little trouble with the stoves at dinner time - one of them blew up in my face singeing a bit of my beard and one eyebrow! We eventually got them sorted and shortly after dinner we went to bed in preparation for a very early start the next morning. (Dinner was always "Harvestfoodworks" - dehydrated concoctions with such names as "Alfredo Primevera", "Chilli Mexicano" and "Mulligan Stew" - followed by cheesecake, pancakes, Jello, Tapioca, or Cobbler.)
Thursday 29th July - Day 15
I was really looking forward to a day on the glacier even though I wasn't too keen at getting up at 3:00am! (We had to get up this early because the snow and ice is at its best early in the day before the sun gets on it too much to melt it and make it slushy). Unfortunately it was not to be - as we got up it started to rain, lightly at first but gradually heavier and by the time we were packed and ready to go down to the cooking area it was pouring. Nevertheless we went out and tried to heat the porridge which had been cooked the night before. The stoves wouldn't light! So we were left standing in the rain and wind, in the dark with no prospect of food and the very real prospect of spending a full day in similar conditions. Eventually we were able to borrow another stove from Survey Fire and we were able to heat enough porridge for a few mouthfuls each. By 4:30am we were ready to leave and Wendy and Jon came over and told us that there was no point in going anywhere in this weather and to wait and they would decide at 5:30am if we were going or not. We all managed to squeeze under a tarpaulin that Survey had erected and had a bit of a singsong to try and raise spirits as the wind howled around us. By 5:30am it was starting to get light and seemed to be clearing a bit but Wendy and Jon came over and said that there would be no point going today so we went back to bed for a few hours.
We got up mid morning and left at 12:00pm for base camp (the six of us doing the resupply run). We arrived at 5:00pm and collected our eleven day food ration from the base camp store - I was not looking forward to carrying it up to Molly!
On Friday 30th July we made it to Molly Lake from base camp after a long walk with heavy packs. It was frustrating and a bit annoying that it was now day 16 and some of us had only just arrived at our science base camp - by now we were supposed to be on day six of our science work!
Much of quite an extensive science work program had to be cut down ensuring that enough work was done for those people who were doing "A" - level geography projects. Because of the extra time it took to get anywhere and the time it would take us to get out again the science phase was cut to six full days for us. Initially we were involved in mapping the area, including all the lakes in the lake systems, vegetation types and coverage and steepness of slopes. Meteorological observations were also started at both ends of Molly Lakes. These were measurements of wind speed and direction, temperature, relative humidity, cloud cover and rainfall that were taken periodically at set sites. At the far end of the lake (the lake was about 1km long) the majority of this was achieved by a measuring thermo-hydrograph in a home-made Stephenson screen.
After the mapping of Molly Lake and Polly Lake (the glacial lake) had been completed we set about measuring the volume of water passing in the in-flows and out-flows of these two lakes at periodic intervals to help determine if there was a link between the weather conditions and the flows into and out of these lakes bearing in mind that one of them was fed totally by rain water and the other was fed largely by glacial meltwater. We also made measurements of the pH's of inflows, outflows and lakes at different points and did some micro-climate work along transects radiating around Molly Lake.
There was a 48 hour period during which we were doing half-hourly meteorological observations and I enjoyed doing the 6:00am to 9:00am stint. When I got up the sky was just starting to pale, it was quite cold but there weren't very many mosquitoes about. As the sun came up above the horizon it would gradually heat up and the groundfrost would melt bringing the mozzies out in their hundreds. No-one else was up at this time and it was nice and quiet and peaceful looking across the flat calm lake to the snow capped mountains beyond as the sun came on to them.
Saturday 7th August - Day 24
Up at 4:00am after moving to Echo Lake from Molly Lake the previous day to attempt our alpine start once again. Thankfully it wasn't raining when we got up and the sky was quite clear although it was still dark. We were fifteen minutes late meeting with Jon and Wendy at 5:15am and we promptly set off. After a rocky scramble a stunning sunrise and a roped river crossing we started going up the rock beside a steep part of the glacier. Where the rock met the ice we stopped and got roped up, we put on our helmets, harnesses and crampons and got tied in at regular intervals along a rope with four or five other people, this was so that if you fell into a snowcovered crevasse you would not fall too far and could be easily hauled out. We moved on to the ice and started up the glacier stopping at regular intervals to take photographs. At about 10:00am we reached the top and had some "lunch". Everywhere was brilliant white (the sun was shining) an we all had to wear sun-glasses to avoid snowblindness. Part of the way down was done in bivvybag at high speed - it was a 500m section down which we made a toboggan run by getting into large polythene bags and sliding on the snow and ice - it was great fun! As we got further down to a flatter bit which had earlier in the day been not too bad, we discovered that the strong sun had changed it into a slushy mess in which we frequently sank up to our knees in. By the time we got down to the rock we were glad to get off the ice!
We came on back down, recrossed the river and made it back to Echo Lake at about 3:00pm. We had a proper lunch of corned beef hash followed a few hours later by dinner, closely followed by bed after a most enjoyable and memorable day. On Sunday 8th August all fires returned to base camp to rest and recover and prepare for the adventure phase. We had decided that for the adventure phase we wanted to come back up to the area around Molly and to try and find a route round the back of Panorama Ridge to Kidney Lake as well as climbing some of the surrounding peaks. We left some of our equipment at Molly Lake to save us carrying it down and then back up again. At base we relaxed and ate the food that we hadn't been able to carry up to Molly. On Tuesday 10th August we went back up to Molly Lake with our seven day adventure phase
food ration. The next day we moved round to a beautiful mountainside meadow, leaving our two leaders Tom and Damion behind at Molly. We arrived there about lunch-time and after a bite to eat several of us went on a recce of the proposed route. Unfortunately we discovered that the three hanging valleys which we knew from the map we would have to go through had very steep sides, one of them vertical, and each were 3000ft down and back up again. This meant that our proposed plan was out the window. After some discussion it was decided that the fire would split with four going down to basecamp, then up the lake chain to Kidney Lake to collect the canoes, and the rest would remain up at Molly and climb some peaks perhaps joining the canoeists at a later stage. This change of plan was then confirmed with the adventure phase co-ordinator, Wendy, over the radio. We stayed the night at our campsite with a magnificent view and some people even saw the meteor shower at about 3:00am. On Thursday 12th August we were up early and had beans for breakfast. Those that were going to basecamp left early and it was while we were getting organised that Graeme and I saw a wolf, it was about 100m from us as it headed down the meadow and into the forest. Unfortunately I didn't get a good photograph of it, but I will never forget it. Before returning to Molly Lake we went up the peak at the end of panorama ridge (it is unnamed). At 7508ft it was an amazing view and we were glad that we hadn't went down to canoe.
The next day four of us went up Caribou mountain - it snowed while we were at the top and I was a bit chilly in my shorts but it was great fun. We were back down for dinner and after that I got organised and set off on a 24 hour bivvy - I went a few kilometres and out of sight of our Molly camp and set up my own camp - just for me. I lit a small fire to make a brew on and I slept the night in a hooped bivvybag which I had borrowed from Nichola. It poured for several hours during the night and when I got a puddle of water in my ear I realised that the bivvybag leaked! It was not a great night but eventually it stopped raining and I got some sleep. The following day I spent on my own, enjoying the scenery and my own company and I returned to Molly science camp for dinner.
Sunday 15th August - Day 32.
I slept through alarm at 6:00am and lay on until the second call for breakfast (about 8:20am). Beans and noodles for breakfast - nice. We decided to go down to basecamp today and to canoe tomorrow Morning was spent packing, sorting and burning what we didn't want to carry down. I had a black and white photo session for newspapers etc. We decided to have dinner at lunch-time, so the big billy was filled with Alfredo Primevera and green beans. It was filled to the brim and by the end of lunch we were all stuffed and there was still some left. We finished packing and everyone except Damion and I left at about 2:45pm with the now customary very heavy sack. Damion and I were making sure the fire was out and clearing out the fireplace. We left at about 3:30pm with fond memories of a campsite that had become home. We left it with a proper fireplace, a bear cache and the way into it marked with small cairns. We also left our saw and pick for future campers to use. The journey over to Ptarmigan seemed to take a long time - the sun was blazing down and the flies were bad. We arrived about 6:00pm and caught up with the others from our fire - they had been slowed by Nichola who had strained her thigh. The pace seemed to pick up after then and we arrived at basecamp at Turner Lake at 10:00pm just as it was getting really dark. We had a brew and sang happy birthday to Inga who was 18. Tomorrow we plan to go canoeing.
The next day we were so tired and we slept in so long that we didn't go canoeing - it would have involved a 2 hour walk to get to them. Instead we rested, sorted and went for a swim and a wash as well as eating! I made pancakes for the breakfast. On Tuesday the rest of our fire returned from canoeing with tales of sun, sandy beeches and fishing. Again the day was spent sorting and eating - we had discovered at this late stage that we had too much food after being hungry for so much of the expedition so it was a case of eat all you can. We didn't want to have to carry it out again and we weren't allowed to waste it by burying or burning it because that would have been sacrilegious in this day and age. That evening we had a talk from John Edwards, a 62 year old gentleman who had lived in a log cabin down on Lonesome Lake all his life. He told us about his life and how he was now involved in the upkeep of the park and in the hire of canoes and cabins in the summer months. Except for plywood and a few other items he was completely independent - he had an extensive vegetable garden, some cattle and enjoyed baking - we were very grateful of the cinnamon buns he brought for us.
On Wednesday we did a run to the end of the four wheel track with expedition kit. Our fire had expressed an interest in canoeing so we got the job of ferrying everyone's packs across to the other side of the lake. This meant we got left last at 9:00am (we were up at 5:30am). We were back up at base camp for dinner after a quick swim in the lake on the way back. At 7:30pm we had a talk from the chief of a local Indian band - the Ulkatcho band which was centred on the Indians position (they had been moved into reserves and off their land) and their fight to get some of their land back.
On Thursday we left base camp for the last time - again we ferried everyone's kit across Turner Lake. We didn't leave until 11:30am and it was 7:00pm, after a particularly painful day for me (my shoulders were aching), that we arrived at transit camp. It didn't seem like it had been thirty odd days since we were last there - the grass that we had trampled was recovering already.
Friday 20th August - Day 37
I got up at 8:30am but I still felt a bit tired from the previous day. Tom and Graeme and Brendon made breakfast of porridge and bannock bread on the range in the log cabin. After helping with the breakfast dishes and getting water I set about doing some repairs and sorting my kit. We were just starting lunch when Marcus arrived with the post - he had been to Bella Coola to sort boats and had collected it. It made my day when I got my letters. After lunch we had a mega cleaning session - billies and mess tins were scrubbed spotless, then I cleaned my cutlery and cup, then a lot of my clothes, then me!
After dinner it was cabaret time. All the fires had prepared something to entertain and amuse. We were second in the line-up and stunned the crowd with an amazing performance of musical talent - we performed the "Fruitini Blues" which we had composed throughout the expedition. It went down well and along with the other fires performances led to a very enjoyable and amusing evening. As it was our last night in the wilderness we were rather late to bed.
After a few hours sleep we were up again at 5:30am. After breakfast and striking camp we left just after 8:00am to walk to the road head. We arrived at 9:00am, an hour before the buses arrived. When they did arrive there was only two of them as well as a van for kit. This meant that there wasn't enough room for us all, with all our kit, on the buses. As we were fire 7 we were last to get on so about six of us were left facing a 3 hour wait as the buses pulled off without us. We decided to use our initiative and went out to the road to thumb a lift. It wasn't long before a covered pickup stopped and we all climbed in the back. The Indian people took us the 63km to Hagensbourg where we were staying the night in a school. They kindly let us off outside the store in Hagensbourg so we went in and bought our first tastes of civilisation - fresh fruit and soft bread. It didn't take long for my stomach's food wants to be satisfied. I also bought deodorant and a razor. When I got to the school and my rucksack arrived I headed for the nice warm showers - it was good to feel clean again! Dinner was chicken, beefburgers, salad and water melon. After we had sorted the next days food we headed for the local pub where the was a band playing - I don't think Hagensbourg was used to so many people.
Sunday morning came early - 4:00am. Before breakfast I phoned home and found out my "A"-level results (I did all right). We left the school at 5:00am for Bella Coola from where we took a selection of craft to Bella Bella. I was on a cabin cruiser. Within about half an hour of leaving, every available indoor floor space was covered by a sleeping body (it rained a lot that day). Much of the journey was down a fjord and we arrived at Bella Bella after 1:00pm. We had to wait there for a few hours for the ferry to pick us up and take us to Port Hardy. We got to the school in Port Hardy at 1:15am but we had to get up again at 6:00am to be ready for the buses that would take us down Vancouver Island to Namoami. Again only two coaches turned up and some of the leaders were left behind to make their own way with surplus kit (including my rucksack) to Namoami. We got to the ferry in Namoami at about 4:00pm and were in Vancouver for 6:30pm. It only took about half an hour to travel by bus to Shaugnessy Elementary School. We had some dinner and went to bed at about 10:30pm (well, my kit hadn't arrived so I just slept on the floor in my clothes).
Tuesday morning was spent cleaning expedition kit and packing it ready for the return journey. The afternoon, and indeed the next day and a half as well were spent soaking up Vancouver. We went round the sights and shops and enjoyed a different sort of food each evening. I particularly enjoyed Science World and the Cinemax cinema in it.
On Thursday 26th August (Day 43 of expedition) we went to Vancouver airport and left for London at 7:00pm Vancouver time (3:00am at home). I didn't get much sleep on the nine hour flight and we landed just before 12:00 midday. At the baggage reclaim it was time to say a warm and sad goodbye to all the friends I had made during the six weeks - we all said we would attend the science report presentation in January. I then went to terminal one and waited for my flight home to Belfast at 3:30pm. It departed slightly late and arrived in Aldergrove at 4:30pm. I was met by my mother and girlfriend and I was very glad to see them!
Getting used to home took some time, everything seemed odd for a while.
There were 84 YE's and about 20 leaders on the expedition. I say about twenty leaders because the number kept changing as members of the advance party left us for home and other leaders went off to do reconnaissance. Before I went on the expedition I vaguely knew the other three people form Northern Ireland, I knew Ryan Nelson because he went to the same school as me, and I had spoken to Patrick Watt from Ballymena and Jon Montgomery from Bangor on the telephone several times, but besides that I did not know anyone. I was therefore a little apprehensive on arriving at Heathrow - what if I didn't get on with anybody and I had to sleep in a tent with someone I loathed? This feeling was heightened by the fact that most people had attended a briefing in Hathersage and had been introduced to each other whilst I had not. However my fears were soon dispelled as I was introduced to my fire and we started chatting. This was the beginning of deep friendships which were formed in the fire and beyond as the expedition progressed.
I found that with very few exceptions everyone was very friendly and obliging and I think this was what most people found. There were a few who did not quite fit into their fire but at base camp at least they soon moved round until they found a fire that they liked. There was a wide variety of personalities among the YE's as well as the leaders and this served to make life a little more interesting and enjoyable.
I was in the Hydrology and Meteorology Fire. In it there were 11 YEs including myself, two female and the rest male, and two leaders Tom Barwood and Damion Sanders. Sally Cooper also joined our fire when she was released from administrative duties and base camp management. There were people from all over the country in our fire, from Tim from Jersey to Inga from Scotland and myself from Northern Ireland as well as all the places in between. It took us a while to get used to each others accents and sayings and these lead to many a laugh!
Nichola Capstick was from Lancashire, is a part-time librarian and is in the ATC. Nichola found the expedition quite strenuous and stained her thigh at one point. I do not think she had been mentally or physically prepared for the expedition but she did improve as time went on and I think she learnt a lot about herself.
James Dalby-Ball boarded at a school in Newcastle-Upon-Tyne and enjoyed a sporting lifestyle. James is tall and has a bush of black hair. He was well organised and equipped although I am sure his camp craft improved during the expedition and that the expedition will just be the start of his outdoor adventures.
Simon-Deller is from just outside London. He is a fellow Venture Scout and this certainly showed in his organisational skills. He and I did the quartermastering and rationing of food which was no mean feat! Simon is taking a year out before going to university to study food technology and during this time he hopes to get a job and repay some of the substantial debt he incurred by coming on the expedition, possibly working in a European ski resort.
Brendon Gill -"the man from Pudsey". Brendon was head and shoulders taller than everyone else with feet to match. He had to get special boots made for his big feet and these did not stand up to the terrain - whether it was a design fault or just Brendons clumsiness we are not sure. Being long-legged he was a fast walker but was never too keen to carry a heavier load.
Tim "sleepy" Huelin was the surf-bum from Jersey. He seemed to spend much of the first four weeks asleep, except when he was eating. He found the walking very tiring. His excuse was that he had never done much walking before as Jersey was quite small and flat! However one momentous day in week five he found his form and shot off into the distance at brake-neck speed and from then on he was always near the front.
Inga Mackay was a bubbly ski enthusiast from Inverness. Good for a laugh Inga enjoyed the expedition thoroughly although she missed her boyfriend. Inga got bitten quite badly by mosquitos and carried the fire mirror. She is at university this year studying geography.
Alexander Macleod is at boarding school in Scotland. He was a bottomless pit with respect to food and was nicknamed "the bin". Alex soon learnt about the work required to keep camp going and after a few weeks his personality changed as he was willing to give anything a go - washing dishes, fetching water and even cooking.
Graham Raeburn was the pudding wrecker from Cheshire. He was banned from touching puddings after he cobbled a cobbler and put two cheesecakes in a river to cool without sealing them. Graeme enjoyed helping set up the Indycar circuit in Vancouver when we were there.
Matthew Titler, otherwise known as "bush-baby", was from Ghana but had been living in England for the past number of years. Always wanting to go on ahead, especially when one of the girls he fancied was in front of us, Matt was fit. Where Matt went his trusty knife went, be it in his belt or down his sock, it saved our fingers on many occasions (when buttering pilot biscuits). Matt wore the same pair of shorts and T-shirt for the whole six weeks until he went to stay with some relatives in Vancouver were he was forced to accept some clean clothes.
Martyn Worsley, or affectionately "fat boy" was the well rounded, big boy from Hereford. A rugby-football prop forward it was noticeable by his physique and lack of intelligence. Martyn however was a bit of a Romeo and he and Tasha from Plants and Trees Fire soon became joined at the hip. Martyn was devastated when he lost his Biffo the Bear Buffalo top and only Tasha could console him.
Damion Sanders was the ex-commercial diver, now CDT teacher from Portsmouth. He delighted in telling and retelling the stories about his Antartic Survey experiences and his involvement in the Falklands conflict. He also made sure that every one knew about his reversible Polartec 2000! A slight figure and a vegetarian, he soon faded away until it was hard to distinguish him from a twig and he was forced to consume meat or face starvation or death through exhaustion. The flies and mosquitoes loved him but he did not share their feelings. "Marvin" as he was soon nicknamed, was the eternal pessimist and yes, the smoke did always follow him round the fire wherever he went.
Tom Barwood was the ex-high payed advertising man, now geography teacher from Milton Keynes. Tom was a major motivator in our fire and was liked by all. It was interesting to hear how he had given up his advertising job and spent three years travelling Asia and Australasia before coming back to train as a teacher.
The chief leader of the expedition was Doc John Cohon, who was not quite as old as Chris Bonnington but very nearly. John was never one to get into a panic and would be frequently seen plodding around the mountains after his next meal.
Tony Whiting was the chief scientist and he visited all the fires to check on their science work and advise on any difficulties we were having. During our adventure phase he was away in Alaska doing a recce for a future expedition.
The chief doctor was Chris Rowlands, who is a G.P. in Shetland. He was immediately distinguishable by his red jump suit and fluorescent Doctor signs. I think he was disappointed when there were no serious injuries and he didn't have to leap into action.
Besides YE's and leaders our contact with other humans in the field was very limited. There were three native Indian park rangers who had a camp about half a mile from our base camp and we saw them on occasions. We saw a few other hikers on the trails and also saw John Edwards, and the Wayco pilot once or twice.
"500km NW of Vancouver in Tweedsmuir Provincial Park, an area of stunning wilderness" - was how it was described to us and it did not fail to meet my expectations. In the valleys there was lake and forest-covered hillside. It was most beautiful on the lake the morning we had to ferry everyone's equipment across by canoe. There was mist floating on the surface, the sun was just rising and there was stillness all around. Only the quiet sound of the paddle in the water could be heard.
As we went up higher and got above the tree line the terrain changed to shrub and grass, rock and then snow and ice. Again the most beautiful occasions were when the sun was rising or setting. One morning when I got up at Molly lake there had been a sharp frost during the night and as the sun came over the mountains it caught in the ice and was reflected to create a dazzling picture.
Images of the beauty of the area will always live on in my mind and I hope to return there one day. Tom, one of our leaders, had trekked in the Himalayas and a few of the classic world trails and said that he had never seen as beautiful scenery as he saw in British Columbia.
The wildlife was also rich and varied. I saw eagles, deer, marmots, mountain goats, squirrels, chipmunks, lizards and even wolf. Unfortunately I do not see a bear and only a few people did in the wilderness. Many people, however, went to the dump in Bella Coola where three bears had taken to living. I thought this was a bit sad and decided not to go.
As Chief Seathl, chief of the Scquamish tribe, wrote to President Franklin Pierce in the 1850's when the Indian Lands were being annexed:
The Great Chief also sends words of friendship and goodwill. The great chief sends word that he wishes to buy our land. The Food. This is kind of him since we know he has little need of our friendship in return. But we will consider your offer. For we know that if we do not sell, the white man may come with guns and take our land. How can you buy or sell the sky, the warmth of the land? The idea is strange to us. If we do not own the freshness of the air and the sparkle of the water, how can you buy them? Every part of this earth is sacred to my people. Every shining pine needle, every sandy shore, every mist in the dark woods, every clearing and humming insect is held in the memory and experience of my people. The sap which courses through the trees carries the memories of the red men.
As previously mentioned our main meal was Harvestfoodworks - a dehydrated meal high in rice and pasta. These were supplemented by puddings (pancakes, apple flakes, custard, cobbler, tapioca, Jello and popcorn) and there was always enough tea to have about ten cups a day each. Milk and sugar were not quite so plentiful at times. Lunch was Pilot Biscuits (or Biscuits Pilot as it said on the other side of the packet) with tins of meat and fish, or jam. Pilot biscuits are circular cracker-type things which are quite inedible on their own. They were light and bulky and always a favourite sack-filler before a long trek. All the sugar, coffee, jam, marmalade, peanut butter, honey and hot chocolate were in individual rations and there was soon a sliding scale established as to the best with hot chocolate at the top. The only thing worth more than a hot chocolate was a Mars bar and these too were rationed one a day. We also had fruit flavoured drinks crystals to add to the iodine flavouring we put in the water.
Breakfast was beans, porridge, kippers, or on a rare occasion cereal and was usually an anti-climax because there was never enough of it.
At the start of the expedition there was a reasonable amount of food though at the time it seemed like we were being starved and we were always hungry. Then after a couple of weeks they (the base camp quarter masters) decided that we were going to run out of food and rations were cut even further. We got to the point that there was a set number of pilot biscuits per day, at the lowest this was five, and they were rigorously counted out each morning. By the time that we returned from the adventure phase they had discovered a surplus of food especially spaghetti so we all stuffed ourselves to save carrying it out - real carbo-loading!
As a fire it seems that our results show that there is a significant difference between Molly (fed by rain water off the hillside) and Molly (fed by meltwater from a glacier) with respect to their pH's and response to various climatic conditions. The results still have to be fully analyzed and a formal report of all scientific results will be published at the AGM of the BSES on the 9 January 1994.
In general, the results of the expedition will give an indication of the state of the park at present as well as an indication as to what might happen in the future and what management is required. The data will hopefully be added to, and contrasted with, similar information gathered in ten years time.
The three days travelling and then the week lugging equipment in was only the final stages of my trip getting to the British Schools Exploring Society expedition to British Columbia 1993. It all started in September 1992 when Miss Kirkpatrick, a biology teacher at Belfast High School and in charge of the Duke of Edinburgh's Award Scheme in the school handed me a photocopy of a newspaper article asking for applications for the expedition. Having just finished my gold D of E and facing a year of hard work at school I liked the sound of a six week expedition in the wilderness of Canada the following summer so I sent off for an application form.
The form duly arrived and after careful thought, was filled in and returned for the October 31st deadline. It was nearly the end of November when I heard anything more and it was a letter inviting me to an interview in Belfast in December. The interview day soon arrived and I had found out all that I could about British Columbia and the BSES and had practiced my interview skills. I had the unfortunate experience of being the first person interviewed. I was quite nervous and I do not remember a lot of what questions were asked by the three interviewers. One question I do remember was, "Do you think you could eat a snake?"!!
It was just after Christmas when I heard anything more. I knew that the BSES would write to my some time to tell me one way or the other and I had not let myself get my hopes up for fear of being disappointed. I opened the letter with the BSES postmark and discovered that I had been conditionally accepted onto the expedition. I was delighted! I then read on to find out what the conditions were - £250 non-refundable deposit by the second week in January and a total of £1800 to be paid before departure in July. I had to think long and hard about the decision - it would take a lot of effort to raise the money and it was my A level year, what if I could not raise the money and I went into debt at 18 years of age, £1800 is a lot of money when you do not earn anything. I consulted my parents and they agreed to help me raise the money and to lend to me the money I did not raise, so I accepted the offer.
From then on we were issued with a fund raising guide and I set about writing to local businesses and anyone who I thought might donate some money to me. For the first few months I got plenty of sympathetic replies but no money. It was on the 26 February that I received my first donation, it was £100 from the Boyd Partnership. From then on things started to pick up. As well as writing asking for donations we organised a craft draw for which the first prize was a patchwork quilt which my mother spent hours making. This was won by Emma Crory from Banbridge. Second and third prizes of quilted cushions were won by M. McAteer from Greenisland and S.Thompson from Richhill, and in total the draw raised £236.
5th Carrickfergus Scouts agreed to run a carwash to raise money for me which raised £50. As well as the £1800 for the expedition itself, I also had to buy various pieces of equipment as well as modifying some things which I had. I made stuffsacks to make packing easier and improved the rucksack I was taking. The equipment I bought included a fleece, a sleeping bag, a mountain jacket, a metal water container and three karabiners. I also had to pay for my flights to and from London and there was a considerable amount of money spent on photographic films and medical supplies.
After my 'A' level examinations finished I had two weeks before I departed on the expedition. These were spent hectically organising and getting kit and deciding what to take and what not to take. My decisions were not helped by the fact that in one piece of literature I had received it had said that the weather would be like a good English summer and on another it said we needed thermal underwear and a four season sleeping bag!
The day before departure I finally packed my rucksack. It was about three-quarters full with no tent, food or science gear, which I thought was not bad. It turned out to be the lightest that my rucksack was going to be for six weeks!
You have read all the facts and figures, the places and the wildlife, but what about me, how did I find it?
The answer is not simple. There were times when I felt nervous, like when I was first introduced to people, and there were times when I felt excited, like when we were up on the glacier. There were times when I just wanted to stop running about the mountains and rest and enjoy it. There were times when I felt lonely and I missed my friends and family at home. There were times when I felt frustrated with people who lagged behind. There were times when I felt glad that I was able to help someone, but the overall feeling that grew as the expedition progressed, and lives on now that the expedition is over, is one of enjoyment. It was a thrill to see a beautiful sunrise, to see an eagle gliding high in the ski, to be so high up a mountain that the planes were below you. The scenery was breathtaking, the most varied and unspoilt and beautiful that I have ever seen. Unfortunately even slides do not capture the true magic of the surroundings.
I found out a good deal about myself and other people. I confirmed that I had good organisational skills and I was pleased to be able to cope better than most with the surroundings and style of life. I did work when it needed done from the start, many people started with the attitude that if someone else will do it then let them, but this changed as they realised it created a much better environment if everyone did their bit.
I learned quite a lot about geography and the environment. I gave up geography after third year in school and concentrated on sciences but found our work during the science phase interesting and I learnt a lot, both about theory and techniques.
From the top of the mountain at the end of Panorama ridge we could see a logging road and a few small patches of ground that had been clear-cut felled i.e. all the trees had been cut down and the ground left bare. As we made our way out of the region we saw several more of these clear-cut areas and we became aware of how important an environmental issue this was, apparently several large Japanese firms had started logging the forests on Vancouver Island as well as on the mainland (Japan uses one third of the worlds timber). These areas are the last remaining temperate rain forest on the earth. A large environmental campaign has been started to try and stop the loggers, particularly in an area called Clayquot Sound on Vancouver Island, which is virtually untouched by humans.
We learnt that even the smallest piece of paper, if dropped on the ground, would spoil the wilderness for people who would come in the future. Take only photos and leave only footprints, and not too many of them!
Everyone who went on the expedition will have learnt things but there was one girl, Joe, who was completely deaf but could lip read who was there. As with everyone she enjoyed the stunning scenery but she could not hear any sounds like the running stream or the strange whistling of the marmots. Nevertheless she enjoyed her experience immensely. The sad thing is that she was told two weeks before she came on the expedition that she was going to go blind. This made me appreciate even more how lucky I was and reminded me of all the people who would have liked to be in my place.
I'd say the expedition has wetted my appetite for adventure and travel. Before going I had been in Europe a few times but no further. Now there are many places I would like to visit and things I would like to see.
So all-in-all it was as I wrote in my letter requesting sponsorship "an experience of a lifetime" , and one I will never forget. But far from being the most adventurous thing I do, I hope it is just the beginning. I would encourage anyone who is faced with a similar opportunity to go for it! Do not let the cost put you off - it can be raised. The experience is amazing and one you will never forget.
This venture would not have been possible without the generosity and helpfulness of a great many people and establishments. I would sincerely like to thank all those who contributed in any way to the expedition. These include -
G M Armstrong
Ballylumford Power Station
Bank of Ireland Trustee Co Ltd
BDO Binder Hamlyn
Belfast High School
The Belfast Telegraph
Bowing, Marsh and McLennon Ltd
The Boyd Partnership
Carrickfergus Borough Council
5th Carrickfergus Cubs and Scouts
B Crowe & Sons Ltd
Education Company Ltd
Gallows Green Service Station
Gordons Drapery
North Eastern Education and Library Board
Northern Bank
Northern Bank Financial Services
Prince's Trust
South East Antrim Scouts
St Colman's Sunday School
St Colman's Select Vestry
Sun Life Broker Services Ltd
Ulster Bank
Willis, Corroon Harris Manian Ltd
A & RA Wylie, Young and King
As well as numerous personal contributions and helpful advice.
A special thank you must go to my family, especially my mother who put in a lot of time and effort to help me.
DAVID BRANAGH
ACCOUNTS
CREDITS The Boyd Partnership 100
Carrickfergus Borough Council 50
Belfast Telegraph 50
Galows Green Service Station 25
B Crowe & Sons Ltd 25
Northern Bank (C/fergus Branch) 25
Ulster Bank (C/fergus branch) 20
Ballylumfiord Power Station 200
Craft Draw 236
South East Antrim Scout Council 50
Bowing, Marsh & McLennon Ltds )
Sunlife Broker Services Ltd )
Bank of Ireland Trustee Co Ltd )
Northern Bank Financial Services )
BDO Binder Hamlyn )
Willis Corroon Harris Marian Ltd ) 500
Gordons Drapery )
Education Company Ltd )
Belfast High School )
5th C/fergus Cub/Scouts car wash 51.55
5th Carrickfergus Scouts 50.00
5th Carrickfergus Cubs 50.00
Princes Trust 200.00
3rd Jordanstown Venture Scouts 50
St Colmans Vestry 50
A & R A Wylie, Young & King 50
NEELB 210
Personal Contributions (various) 257
TOTAL CREDITS 2269.55
DEBITS BSES Expedition Cost 1800
Thermal Long Johns 15.75
Sigg water bottle 9.60
Hiking boots 60.00
Fleece jacket 60
Postcards & expedition badges 16.05
Equipment modifications 37.81
Flight to & From London 117
Fishing line and hooks 2.93
First aid supplies 22.66
Spare laces 1.80
Karibiners & Fuel bottle 34.20
Slide films & batteries 110.67
Waterproof tape 2.40
Carrymat 9.99
Thermal top 17.25
Mess tins 5.95
Boot wax 1.60
Mountain jacket 155.00
Sleeping bag 44.50
Misc 36.82
Postage 27.18
Prints from slides 21.00
TOTAL EXPENDITURE 2610.25
If you have comments or suggestions, email me at d_branagh@hotmail.com