Here is a full account of the expedition, as appeared in The Carrickfergus Times:Local student David Branagh has just returned from a 6 week expedition to Morocco in northern Africa. David was a leader on the expedition organised by BSES Expeditions, a charity based at the Royal Geographic Society in London. The main aims of all BSES expeditions are to undertake group expeditions in remote and harsh environments, to carry out adventure related scientific field-work and to help young expeditioners to develop leadership skills. 69 young people between the ages of 16 and 20 from all over the United Kingdom were selected to go on the expedition to Morocco.
David only became involved in the expedition to Morocco about one month before it departed although there were 3 leaders in total from Northern Ireland, and one ‘Young Explorer’ (YE). Most participants on the expedition had attended a training weekend at Ilkley in England at Easter where they had got to know each other and had learnt a lot about the expedition and what equipment would be needed.‘All the members of the expedition met at Heathrow airport on Monday 20th July for the flight to Casablanca and then on to Marrakesh. On arrival at Marrakesh airport we were all hit by the heat and most people wondered how they would manage to work and travel in such heat, and hotter. The following day we moved through the magnificent Atlas mountains to our training camp at Boumalne Dades. Our camp was located in a large walled kashba and goat hair tents were provided to store kit and allow escape from the heat of the day.
The week was spent organising camp routines, young explorers in groups called ‘fires’ and scientific field-work proposals. Six ‘fires’ were formed: geology, landforms, architecture, anthropology, human studies and life science. I was one of the leaders of the life science fire which encompassed plants and animals, physiology and psychology. It was very hot at Boumalne Dades although we were assured that we would get used to it after the acclimatisation period. Everyone had to ensure that they stayed hydrated and this involved drinking 4 to 6 litres of water per day. We also had to make sure that we did not get sunburn at this early and vulnerable stage of the expedition.
It was during this period that we were introduced to the expedition food. All the main meals had been trucked out to Morocco from England by an advance party and consisted of dehydrated foods which just had to be added to boiling water. There were only 4 menus ranging from ‘four seasons’ which was quite nice, to ‘chilli non carni’ which was inedible. For desserts several tons of custard and Angel Delight had been brought along with some hot chocolate and plenty of tea. For lunches each fire had to send some people into the town to buy bread and local fruit. Lunch for fifteen people cost about £3.
It was at this stage that we introduced to the ‘sheep dip’ system. This was a 3 bowl system for cleaning eating utensils and hands. In the first bowl was washing up liquid, in the second was diluted Jeyes disinfectant and in the third was rinsing water. The theory went that food was washed off in the first bowl, any remaining germs were killed in the Jeyes and the final bowl was to try and wash away the taste of the Jeyes. Unfortunately the rinsing had only limited success and we soon got used to a mild taste of disinfectant with everything!
Especially when in the town itself everyone had to observe local sensitivities to dress – females had to wear long skirts and have covered shoulders and no bare torsos were allowed from males.
It was not long until the locals heard that there was several football teams worth of British young people staying in town and we were challenged to a football match. With temperatures in the 30’s and us not acclimatised yet we were beaten 12 – 1 but it was all great fun.
The locals also introduced us to Berber music and drums. The drum sessions would usually last for a few hours every night and some of the YE’s became quite proficient.
Once fires were formed some introductory exercises were carried out and the science projects decided upon.
It was decided as the week progressed to undertake a hike to help acclimatisation. We arranged a minibus from Boumalne into the Dades Gorge and where the road left the valley bottom we got out and started walking up the river. It was not long until we came across the first of several pools which we had to wade through. For some people the water came up to their neck and they had their daysacks above their heads to keep their cameras dry – this was real expedition stuff! A few people lost sandals in the muddy river bed and there was a mud fight to finish off with.
The next day we decided that it was time to experience some of the culture of the town and we headed for the hammam. This is a Turkish style hot bath with optional massage and it was very relaxing.
Our training week was soon over and we had to prepare for the move to our second base camp….
The day on which we were to move base camps started early, we were up at 6am. We all had breakfast and finished packing and were ready to go at 8am – the time which had been arranged with the transport company to leave. Unfortunately the minibus drivers had different ideas – they did not want to take all the equipment or all the people! This was the first of many transport problems that we had. They were usually resolved by some heated discussion and on this occasion we were ready to go by 8:30am.
We had to travel north-west to Ouarzazate and then south to Nkob. We arrived at Nkob at 1:30pm and after some lunch at a prearranged kasbah(a large walled house, traditionally a fort) there was some confusion as to whether we should start the 19km trek into our new base camp. The leader team decided that it was best not to start as there was doubt about whether the water stop had been installed so we spent the rest of the day, and the night at the kasbah. We were given a tour of the town and the importance of the springs was explained to us.
The next day we were up at 4:20am and were ready to leave at 5:40am just as it was beginning to get light. The sky was hazy which kept the temperature from rising too high. We rose up and crossed a long plateau before sighting a wadi below us. We descended down into the wadi and progressed up the river bed. The area was well cultivated and we could see apples, figs, dates and pomegranates. 10km up the valley we emerged from the cultivation and 4km further on was the site of our new basecamp. Berber tents had been erected for us and we soon collapsed in the shade after a long days walk. It was only then that we began to appreciate the surroundings – we were camped on a valley floor with mountains all around. There was rock everywhere and we were soon eyeing up our first peaks! The scenery was very wild, rocky and rugged. In the first nights at our second base camp there was a full moon and this added to the wonder of the place.
With only 10 days at our second base camp we had no time to waste. The first days were spent organising the site and digging toilet pits as well as scouting out areas for possible scientific study. In the Life Science fire we devised a questionnaire to measure socio-economic background, self-esteem and leadership of participants. The idea was for participants to complete the questionnaire at various times throughout the expedition and from the results hopefully we would be able to observe some trends as the expedition progressed. For wildlife observation we studied rock pools at differing altitudes, testing for trace elements, temperature, size and species present. A simple map of the pools was constructed.
On several nights we slept on the top of mountains. This was an amazing experience – the nightsky had millions of stars and the dawn was watched in wonder at about 6am the following morning.
A large fairly deep pool was discovered about 1km from basecamp and this soon became known as the ‘swimming pool’ and was very refreshing after a hot afternoon – the temperatures were often around 40oC.
Water had to be collected every day in the truck from a well 2km from basecamp and this meant that every drop was precious. We were allowed a pint of water to have a full wash in. This seemingly simple task involved taking your water and wash kit out of camp to where you could not be seen, then stripping off and starting with the teeth and finishing with the feet. There was definitely a technique involved and it took a while to master.
Several visits were made down the valley to the local peoples. These usually resulted in the young people being fed and invited to stay the night with the family. There were some offers of marriage as well but these had to be declined!
With the science work complete we decided to do some more adventurous activities and the leaders set up a 30 metre (90ft) abseil down a waterfall. This was greatly enjoyed by the young people and for some was the highlight of their expedition.
To finish off this phase of the expedition a Meshwee had been organised for the whole expedition. This local festivity was provided by Berbers who visited our site and the main meal was goat – these had been merrily skipping about a few hours before we ate them. This was also our first introduction to traditional Berber dance. The men wearing white traditional costume resembling long bedshirts formed one line, and the women dressed in all their finery formed another. The lines stood facing each other and moved forward and back to the singing which was essentially just chanting.
The next day saw the start of our retreat from our second base camp. The camp had to be dismantled, rubbish burnt, toilet pits filled in. We then started the trek back to Nkob in the mid afternoon. The plan had been to stop at the palm grove just before we climbed out of the wadi but on arrival there the young people decided that after eating they wanted to continue in the dark and get as far as possible that night. As we climbed onto the plateau we noticed a magnificent electric storm in the distance and as progressed it drew closer. At 11:30pm we decided to stop and found a flat rocky patch just down from the plateau on which to sleep. Just as we stopped it started to rain. This was the first real rain that we had experienced in Morocco. It was cold and wet and very refreshing. It only lasted about 30 minutes and dried almost immediately, after which we settled down to sleep.
The next morning we were up at 6:30am and arrived at Nkob at 9am for breakfast. The minibuses were there for 10am and we were soon off to our third basecamp of the expedition….
After some more transport problems including the majority of the expedition being left at the wrong place, we finally all made it to our third and final base camp two days after leaving Nkob. We were situated near a village called Taoutit-n-Tilas with the nearest town being Foum Zguid. Camp was set up in the palm groves of the village, in the wadi base. After a days recovery, during which I was ill, it was time for the Life Science fire to move to our own base camp on up the valley at Ta’froukt. This was done with the help of the truck and we soon had our camp established. We were also in palm groves, about 200m from the village itself and soon after we arrived the local children ‘found’ us and came to watch these strange foreigners.By this stage in the expedition hundreds of tins of sardines, and mackerel with chillies had been bought for our lunches. These were used in the bread that we arranged to be delivered every day from one of the villagers. To begin with the sardines were very nice, and the mackerel a little spicy but edible, but it did not take long for many people to ‘overdose’ on them and after that feel ill at even the thought of eating them. It was at this stage that we practised our bartering skills by swapping our tinned fish for biscuits and other food in the village shop.
One morning we were sitting having breakfast and a group of local boys approached, the oldest I am sure was only twelve. They brought with them a mule laden with oranges, water melons, and soft drinks. Evidently they had the idea of cashing in on our visit and had brought the shop to us. Unfortunately water melons were not thought safe to eat but the oranges and soft drinks were well received.
While at this base camp groups left the area to complete gold Duke of Edinburgh’s award scheme expeditions and a group left to scale Mgoun, the second highest mountain in Morocco at just over 4000m. Those remaining continued work on the science topics and explored the surrounding area.
Those who had not gone on the Mgoun trek from the Life Science fire organised their own expedition. The aim was to follow mule tracks through the mountains, passing villages for water and shade to sleep under and it was planned to take four days. So it was on Sunday 16th August we set off. The young explorers were organising and running everything and I was only really along to supervise and to enjoy the hike myself.
We left late afternoon and it was only 6km to Amtzguine, where we intended to stay the night. It only took two hours to get there and we were met by a large crowd of locals. We asked if there was anywhere in the palm groves that we could sleep the night and as we were being shown one place another man arrived and said that we must stay at his house. He took us up the valley a short way and then to a large walled house. We were brought inside and to an upstairs terrace were we were given carpets and cushions to sit on. We later found out that the man who had brought us was the son of the chief of the village and it was the chiefs house we were now in. The men of the house made us feel at home and conversations were in French and broken English.
It was not long until mint tea was produced, and a meal was promised. We were glad at the offer of food as it meant that we did not have to eat the rations that we had brought with us. It was not long before a television and video were brought out and we watched some satellite TV. Then a camcorder was produced and we were videoed for posterity. It was quite amazing to be in a village in the middle of the desert were they still use goat skins to store their water and to be watching satellite television. At about 10pm small round tables were produced and we were seated round them. Then large dishes with conical lids were produced and the lids removed to reveal tajine – this is a meat and vegetable stew cooked slowly in an earthenware dish over hot coals – and we had endless supplies of bread with it. We think the meat was goat but were not quite sure! We felt like kings going to sleep on soft carpets having eaten such a delicious meal.
The next day we had intended to continue to Wintijgal but the chief and other members of the household did not understand why we wanted to walk over the mountains and insisted that we stayed for food and a tour of the village. In the end the group decided to stay another day and continue the hike the next. We had bread, butter and honey along with a flour broth at about 9am which we thought was breakfast but at about 11:30 we were served couscous and we were all full to exploding as we were taken for a tour of the village. We had another meal at 4:30 and another meal at about 7pm by which time we all had to force ourselves to eat so as not to offend our hosts. Some of the children came up to the terrace and were fun to play with. The television came out again and as one of the men of the house was flicking through the channels there was a news article on Northern Ireland. It was in a foreign language so I could not understand it but pictures of clearup teams with wheelbarrows were shown and I was not sure if I heard Omagh mentioned.
It was only at this stage that we were told that there was to be a wedding celebration that evening. We were all given Moroccan clothing which for the males was a long white night-shirt type garment, and for the women was colourful skirts and headcoverings. We were then lead down into the courtyard where most of the village had assembled for a night of dancing, chanting and singing. I’m sure most of the locals thought us very funny as we made fools of ourselves trying to copy the Moroccans.
The next morning we were up early and managed to get away after only one breakfast but our hosts insisted that we take horses to carry our kit and be accompanied by a guide. That day we made it to Wintijgal and were insistent with the locals that we would only stay in one of their houses if we could leave before dawn, and if we could cook them food instead of the other way around. The following day we returned to our camp.
The final week of the expedition was spent completing science work and preparing for withdrawal. A day was spent in the walled town or Taroudannt to buy gifts and have the end of expedition meal, before returning to the UK on 31st August.
When the Young Explorers were asked what their most memorable experience of the expedition was, responses included “Walking to N'Kob during the night, when there was a thunderstorm with magnificent lightening.”, “The abseiling down the waterfall. This was exhilarating to say the least. A fantastic experience.”, and “Sitting on top of the mountain in the last week of the expedition with the wind from the whole valley blowing up in my face. It was one of the most peaceful in my life.”
When asked what challenges they had overcome on the expedition they answered, “I never thought I would survive in such extreme temperatures but I have. Dehydration was also something I was worried about because I don't really like water but it is a matter of survival out here so I had very little choice - I only got dehydrated once.”, and “Confident to mix with strangers. Confident to be away from home. Abseiling - not scared anymore. Confident on long walks. Not scared to try different things.”
Other comments included, “my horizons have been broadened because out here in Africa they have a different way of life - it makes me appreciate how I have taken everything for granted eg water - I will not do so in the future”, and ”I think that I am capable of more, having participated in the expedition.”
As a leader it was very rewarding for me to have participated on this expedition, to experience a new country with amazing hospitality and to see young people grow and develop.