Here is a full account of the expedition, most of which appeared in the Carrickfergus Times:
David Branagh, from Carrickfergus has just returned from an expedition to the "Lost City of the Inca" in Peru, South America. David completed the 4 day Macchu Pichu trek over 50km and passes of over 4000m. He recounts the adventure:
Longed to do it
'The lost city of the Inca' - the phrase had always conjured up images of mystic ruins of ancient civilisations. These ruins could only be reached through impenetrable jungle where man fears to tread. A little investigation revealed that there are lots of Inca ruins in South America - some of them are by the roadside, but some of them really can be reached after several days of long hard toil over high passes and through forests.
With a sense of adventure the choice was easy. The 'Inca Trail' to Macchu Picchu is the most famous trek in South America and rightly so. Along it are half a dozen ruins and it ends at the magnificent sight of Macchu Picchu itself - home to 1000 Incas at one time. And so I set about researching and planning to do the Macchu Pichu trek. My travel partner was Becky Webb, who had been on a previous expedition to Morocco with me in 1998. Most guide books of SA cover the trek and we soon had flights organised and other details arranged.
Set off and getting there
So it was on 1st September after a hard day in the office that I caught a flight to Heathrow and within 6 hours we were on a flight to Peru via Madrid. 16 hours later we arrived in Lima airport at 6pm local time. Through the power of the internet we had managed to arrange accommodation in Lima and we were collected at the airport - which was just as well because the scrum of taxi drivers outside was a little intimidating. Knowing what lay ahead we were keen to get closer to the start of the Macchu Pichu trek and so the next morning we caught a flight to Cusco, the ancient Inca capital.
Cusco, acclimatise, organise
Arriving in Cusco we got a taxi to the central square and soon found basic but cheap accommodation - Hostal Resobosa. This was at a family run hostel with wonderful views over the central square and the whole town from the balcony. It said in the guidebooks that several days were required to be spent in Cusco to acclimatise to the altitude (it is at an altitude of 3326m) and we certainly felt it climbing the steps up to the hostel - it left us exhausted and out of breath.
Cusco itself is quite a pleasant town, and was the Inca capital in times gone by. It is well used to western tourists. It has a large central square called the Plaza de Armas (as do most towns) around which there is a cathedral, a church and lots of shops. The central area has a fountain and park area with benches. As this is a central area for tourists it is also a central area for sellers - children with postcards and shoeshine boys, women selling alpaca hats and gloves and musical instruments.
Peru has a very distinct musical heritage, some of which has made it to the western word such as Zimponi or ‘Pan pipes’ and rhythms as used in Paul Simons ‘Rhythm of the Saints’. They also have instruments such as Quecha, and Ocarina.
There are many craft shops in Cuzco with the most common items being Alpaca sweaters, hats and gloves, rugs and carpets, instruments and the distinctive and vibrant Peruvian art. South American art is very eye-catching and is thriving in the present day. Usually it involves the inclusion of bright and bold colours and often local peoples.
It was at a traditional restaurant in Cusco that we sampled the local delicacy – Cuy or Guinea Pig. These come to the table having been carefully prepared with the head and claws still intact. There isn’t a lot of meat on a Guinea Pig and it was even harder to get it off the bones. As to what it tasted like I couldn’t say – there was never enough of it in my mouth at one time to get a proper taste.
Our acclimatisation period was busily spent sightseeing, shopping and preparing for the trek. The authorities in Cusco produce a 'Cusco Visitor ticket' for many of the places of interest in the local area. This included Tambo Machay, Puca Pucara, Qenko, and Sacsayhuaman.
A few days after arriving in Cuzco we decided to try out a short hike to see these ruins and test how well we had acclimatised. The first and largest ruin, Sacsayhuaman meaning 'satisfied falcon', was at the top of the hill behind our hostel. It was a stiff half hour walk uphill and the 3000m altitude was noticeable. Sacsayhuaman had been a large well fortified settlement of the Incas. The stonework was amazing and even more so because the Incas had not discovered the wheel or iron when these huge stones were carved to fit exactly together without mortar. Although impressive apparently only about a fifth of the original site remains - the rest was torn down and the stones used by the Spanish conquerors to build their houses in Cusco. There are catacombs, and a huge amphitheatre at the site.
The next site was Qenko, a honeycombed rock structure which includes sacrificial altars. The next was Puca Pucara a small red fort structure on the way to Tambo Machay. Tambo Machay is a ceremonial bath beautifully carved in stone with very close fitting rocks. From there it was 8km back to Cusco which we managed without too much difficulty - we were beginning to acclimatise!
Then we had to get ready for the trek! We had found an office of the 'South American Explorers Club' in Cusco which we had meant to visit in Lima but had not had the time. Here we obtained maps of the trek and some information about the train to get to the start of the trek.
Food had to be carefully selected for the hikes. It had to be fairly light, easy to cook, nutritious and nice! This usually meant porridge with jam for breakfast, jam and crackers for lunch and noodles for dinner all supplemented with a supply of chocolate and nuts.
With everything prepared, the next day we were set to start the trail.
Start the trail
We were up at 4:40am, left at 5am and got a taxi to the bus depot for a bus to Ollantaytambo. It left at 5:40am, full but this did not stop the driver picking up more people along the way! The train at Ollantaytambo was 'chaotic' to say the least. There are 3 sorts of train that run the route - the tourist train, the autowagon and the local train. Most hikers get the local train along with the porters, locals and livestock, and it has a reputation for thievery.
After about an hour on the train following the Urabamba river we passed through the first tunnel which signalled km88. This is where the Inca trail starts. At km88 there are a few shacks selling coke and sweets and the trail leading down to the trail start checkpost and bridge over the Urubamba river. Today about 30 hikers got off at km88, including one group with porters. Walking was quite hot because although the air was cool the sun was hot, but we made good progress. The first section was relatively flat until we met the Rio Cusichaca and started to follow it up the valley. It didn't take us as long as we had thought to get to Huayllabamba where the first campsite on the trail is. Unfortunately it is renowned for theft so it was an easy decision to press on. The trail now started to get steep and progress slowed but never stopped. We soon arrived at the 'Three White Stones' campsite.
This time it was a harder decision - do we press on for the Llulluchupampa campsite closer to the pass and get some of the steep climb up to 'Dead Woman's Pass' done today, or do we quit while the going is good and start afresh tomorrow? In the end we decided to go on. The path was now passing through cloud forest - so called because the plants draw most of their moisture form the fog and clouds that surround them and not from the soil like most plants - and it was steep. Lots of steps and the effects of altitude were beginning to be noticeable - it was slow going.
After about an hour we decided to call it a day. There was a clear patch not far from the path and we decided to pitch our tent for the night. After a quick meal it was time for bed - even though it was only 7pm under the premise of 'sleep when it is dark and walk when it is light'. It was an uncomfortable nights sleep due to the altitude.
Tuesday 7th we were up with the sun at 5am. After some rather substandard porridge we started walking at 6:30am. It took us a further 2 long hours to get to 'Dead Woman's Pass' at an altitude of 4198m - the highest point of the trail. It was good to reach it and look back down the valley that we had come up and the snow capped mountains beyond. It was not so good to see a long descent ahead of us followed by and equally long climb again!
We made it down to the river for lunch, stopping for a chocolate break on the way. Near the river porters from several large tour groups had set up the table and chairs for their clients lunch. Mostly of north American origin, members of these large tour groups had paid around £300 just to do the trail but with the luxury of having all their kit carried for them, their meals prepared and tents pitched for them. Although polite to them we held them in healthy contempt as we passed carrying everything we needed for 4 days on our backs.
We soon made it to Runturacay, a small ruin halfway up the mountain, and we continued on up to the pass at 3998 metres buoyed by conversation of politics. On the other side the cloud was down and it tried to rain a few times but the path was good (if a little steep) and we descended 1,000 steps (literally) to the mystical ruins at Sayacmarca and slightly beyond to our campsite for the night.
There are numerous campsites along the trail which have very basic facilities and are primarily to concentrate the effects of thousands of hikers every year and to keep the trail free of rubbish and excrement. There is no charge for them (they are often not manned) but their upkeep is funded by the trail permit fee of US$17 (just over £10).
The next morning was a long gentle climb to the last of our major passes - 3700m. The going was good and we were now accustomed to the walking although my shoulders were often sore. Our aim was to enter the ruins and camp at Intipunku - the Sun Gate in wait for the next days sun rise. Unfortunately when we got the ruin entrance gate at midday we were told that camping was not allowed beyond the gate so we instead spent the rest of the day at the campsite there. It was situated on a steep hillside, build in terraces and very crowded. There was however a shop which had Coca-Cola!
On Thursday 9th we were up at 4:30am and on the go from 5am in a bid to get to the Sun Gate before the sun came over the mountains at about 6am. It felt like a race, with well over a hundred people all going as fast as they could, some with packs and some without, along a narrow windy stone path in the dark. When we reached the Sun Gate at 6:30am it was light but the sun had not made it over the mountain yet.
Lost City
The site beyond was shrouded in mist as thick as time itself. We knew from the guide books what it should look like, but she wasn't giving anything away. And then the cloud swirled – was that the ‘Lost City of the Inca’ that we could see? The murky shadow in the cloud? It cleared a little more – yes she was there. Just as she was in the year 1500 when a thousand Incas lived there. Reclaimed from the jungle by the archaeologist Bingham in 1911 on the second day of searching. And now visited by 300,000 people every year.
Peru was conquered by the Spanish in the 1500’s at which time the Inca’s controlled most of the country but there are traces of much older civilisations throughout the country and new sites, mummies, sacrifices and artefacts are constantly being found in the jungles and mountains.
We stayed at the Sun Gate for about an hour as the sun came up some more and cleared some of the cloud. The sun rise was not as spectacular as I have read about it being described but it was still the triumphant culmination of the dream of 3 years. I had walked the Inca trail to Machu Picchu.
We then walked the mile or so down to the site itself, checked in our rucksacks and spent several hours investigating these amazing ruins. Machu Picchu is both the best and least known of the Inca ruins. It was not mentioned in the chronicles of the Spanish conquerors. When Bingham stumbled upon it he was looking for Vilcabamba, the last stronghold of the Incas against the Spanish, but it is now known that this is further into the jungle.
Description of site.
The site itself covers a large area and is split into distinct regions. Although archaeologists cannot be certain what each of the areas were used for, findings allow them to make a good guess. There is a residential and an industrial sector and also agricultural terraces on the surrounding hillsides. There are also several temples and sacrificial altars - thought to be for worshipping the sun and moon. The best view is from the watchman's hut and it is for this reason that it is thought that guards kept an eye over the city from here. It is also from where most promotional photographs of the site are taken.
A few of the buildings have had roofs added in recent years to show how they were in the time of the Inca and there is still archaeology and restoration taking place at the site.
We spent several hours touring the site and wondering at it's marvels and then it was time to leave – to head back to Cusco. We got the bus the long series of hairpin bends to the railway and Aguas Calientes. Here the fun with the train began! We knew that there was a local train at 1pm so Becky queued for tickets which turned out to be a bit of a scrum. She did get tickets eventually but for unnumbered seats. As it turns out when they run out of seats they just continue selling tickets!
It was like sardines on the train but EVENTUALLY we got back to Ollantaytambo by train and then by collectivo to Cusco and back to the hostel and some food that wasn’t noodles!
The next 2 days were spent in Cusco, recovering, writing the last of the postcards and deciding what to do. The possibilities included an ascent of the volcano El Misti near Areqquippa, Lake Tititicacca and the floating islands, or the Cordillera Blanca in the north of the country – all in the next 9 days and then to get back to Lima for the flight home.It was also time to buy some souvenirs.
Cordillera Blanca
In the end we decided to do another trek in the Cordillera Blanca range – a 180km range to the north of Lima. So on the 12th we got the 7:15am flight from Cusco to Lima and then got a taxi to the bus depot. Then it was an 8 hour bus journey to Huaraz. We got in about 8pm and got a taxi to a place recommended in the Lonely Planet guide. Having been down to sea level we again had to acclimatise at altitude and had a look around the town.
Although Huaraz is the centre for hiking and climbing expeditions in the area, it is a bit of a concrete sprawl. This is largely because it has been destroyed several times by earthquakes and their resultant mud slides (the whole area is prone to earthquakes and there had been a tremor in Lima about a month before).
We once again stocked up on food and planned our route. We had decided to do the Olleros to Chavin route but the owners of our hotel warned us of robberies on this route and as we were only 2 people it was unsafe. They recommended the Santa Cruz – the most famous route in this range and with reluctance we changed our plans – it would make our schedule tight though and we were worried about getting back to Lima on time.
On Tuesday we were up at 5am and got a combi at 5:40 for Yungay. We were there for 6:30 but had to wait until 7:30 for another combi to Vaqueria. This was one of the worst journeys of the whole trip! We travelled across the mountain range on dirt roads in a combi filled with 14 people for 3 hours. It was bone shattering!
We had sufficiently recovered enough to start the walk by 10:45am. The first day of hiking involved gradual ascent.
The mountain peaks were shrouded in mist which cleared periodically and there was some water about - even mud in places! We reached the first campsite on the trail at 1:30pm, just in time for lunch. After a quick bite of packet jam and crumbing crackers we continued on. It started to rain at 3:30 as we reached the 2nd campsite so this decided us on where we would stop for the night. Unfortunately the mountains generate their own weather and we were just coming into the rainy season. The midges were bad here and for the first time we had to break out the DEET. It was amazing to be relatively isolated in such magnificent surroundings.
On the Sata Cruz trek the campsites consist of flat ground and some ‘long drop’ hole-in-the-ground toilets. This means that all rubbish has to be carried out – something that sadly is not done by everyone, resulting in unsightly piles of rubbish at some campsites.
The next day we were up at 5:30am - there had been quite a lot of rain during the night although it had stopped by the time we got up. We were ready to leave at 6:40am and continued a fairly gentle climb towards the end of the valley. At 10am we reached the start of the final steep ascent. We were now nearly into the clouds. It was at this stage that the going got tough. The pass we were heading for was at an altitude of 4750m. Every step was slow, calculated and exhausting. We were not helped by the fact that we could not see where we were heading due to the cloud and snow showers. Eventually we made it and had a triumphant chocolate stop at the top - we had done it. Unfortunately we did not get the great views boasted of this trail but there was a real sense of achievement at having made it.
We then started the descent with renewed momentum. We could see the long valley ahead of us and where our campsite for the night would be. We passed one campsite at 2:30pm and stopped at the next one at 3:30 just as it started to rain again.
The next day we were up at 6am and were off shortly after 7am. By 10:30am we reached campsite at Llamacorral. This was the last campsite on the trail before the end and as we had not intended to finish until the next day we decided to stay for they day and enjoy the mountains. The mountains are very granite, carved by glaciers and not that dissimilar in places to the Antrim hills in Northern Ireland.
Our petrol burning stove had been giving some trouble so this was a good opportunity to clean it and restore it to full health.
The next day it was only 3 hours back to Cashapampa. Then a collectivo to Caraz and another to Huaraz. We then had a day in Huaraz and then an overnight bus back to Lima where we spent the day before our long flight home.
It had been a wonderful trip with amazing mountain views, stunning Inca ruins and great people. Between Becky and myself our knowledge of Spanish extended to two phrase books and a lot of sign language – it is hard to say which was more useful! But we got by just fine. I thought Peru was a great country and I would love to return some time soon.
Other things in the country include: The famous Lake Titicacca with it’s floating reed islands. The climbable volcanoes near Arequippa, including El Misti. Surf on the beach. Paddington Bear. A world of undiscovered things….
If you have comments or suggestions, email me at d_branagh@hotmail.com