MARYS PEAK: On A Clear Day You Can See Forever
Local Indian tribes used it as part of their vision quest rituals. Various
species of plants and insects clung to dear life there after the Ice Age.
Early settlers used it to graze their flocks of sheep and goats. These days,
however, thousands of visitors bound up and down the multi-faceted Marys
Peak for the purpose of sightseeing, cross-country skiing, hiking, birdwatching,
picnicking or scientific research. It simply offers a dizzying array of
natural scenic delights and varied activities.
Marys Peak is a unique environment, which is largely the result of its most
outstanding attribute: It is the highest mountain in the Coast Range. The
mountain yields scientific wonders, grand views and vast opportunities for
its exploring its trails, waterfalls and forests within a wildly shifting
environment.
The Marys Peak experience begins with Marys Peak Road: The winding, twisting,
nine-mile route that leads to the summit. Filled with dramatic scenic surprises
at every turn, it yields forested bluff after forested bluff, eventually
turning into awesome viewpoints and waysides where you suddenly realize
you have driven above the clouds. Along the way are entrances to three of
the four trails that crisscross the park, and a few gentle waterfalls from
which to grab a handful of clear, pure mountain water.
In the winter, the road is generally snowplowed and skiing becomes a favorite
activity in the higher elevations. During the summer, it is hiking and viewing
that provide the biggest pleasures. East Ridge, Meadow Ridge, North Ridge
and Tie trails all offer different treks through a variety of stunning environments.
Camping is an option, too, although only six spots are available on a first-come
basis. The peak is a haven for stargazers and is extremely popular during
such stellar events as a lunar eclipse or meteor shower. Amateur radio enthusiasts
have been known to set up shop there. Other oddball uses include a 1982
classical concert on a meadow near the top, given by the 45-piece Salem Concert
Band.
There is even some UFO lore regarding the mountain, thanks to Northwest
UFO writer Greg Long.
The origin of the peak's name is somewhat up for grabs, but it is commonly
known as Marys - plural - rather than the possessive Mary's. The
general theory is that early settlers acquired the name from the nearby
Marys River and Marysville. Exactly which two or more Marys were honored in this
manner is still debated. Another more recent theory has it that French fur
trappers nicknamed it St. Mary's Peak, which was in turn changed by Protestants from a
Catholic icon name to one more representative of their beliefs.
Because of its height, a myriad of rare plant species grow there which occur
only in certain climates, and in some cases, are indigenous to the mountain.
Marys Peak allows certain kind of fir trees, insects, flowers and grasses
to thrive because its habitat changes so drastically: Different climates
exist in bands from one altitude to the next.
An extremely rare species of Caddis fly was discovered there within the
past 40 years, and numerous kinds of plants grow in small colonies, sometimes
only within a few acres. Many plant species exist mainly in dry, desert-like
conditions that only occur on the peak at certain elevations and on slopes
where wind, temperature and sun conditions are just right.
Jim Boeder, a Corvallis resident and former hiking guide on the peak, said
many of these species are extremely ancient and rare, and it is theorized
many of of them remained here after the Ice Age. ``About 33,000 to 34,000
years ago, when the glaciers receded, a lot of them were stranded here,''
Boeder said. ``Because of its alpine conditions, they are allowed to survive.''
Boder also tells of an Indian myth that described a great flood in the area
- a myth given some rather chilling credence because of its apparent scientific
accuracy. Some 8,000 years ago, a glacier in the Missoula, Montana area
broke. It had acted as a natural dam, but when it broke it created what
is today known as the Great Missoula Flood. ``The legend recounts it in
such a way that it sounds as if it could only be told by someone who actually
saw the flood from the top of the mountain,'' he said. The flood sent water
sometimes as high as 400 feet into the Willamette Valley.
Whatever enormous disaster befell the area in ancient times, it is very
difficult to imagine anything of such hideous magnitude once you're close
to the top. Few sights are as inspiring and magnificent than seeing the
world - and the clouds - below you.
The summit, then, is like a small piece of heaven. At around the nine-mile
mark you'll find the parking lot, which leads to a gravel trail that ascends
to the top. There, if the day is clear enough, you can actually see the
beaches of Newport and the ocean some 21 miles away. You can see as far
as Mount Rainier to the north and Mount Thielsen, near Crater Lake, to the
south. Often, the clouds obscure this view, but their flowing presence below
you is a grandiose and welcome reminder of how high you really are. And
unless conditions are extremely foggy, a stunning view of the valley is
always available.
Just below the south side of the summit are two enormous rock structures
that jut out. These are perfect for perching out of the wind for awhile
and taking in the surroundings. On some occasions, painters have been seen
nestled tightly on these rocks, soaking in the inspiration.
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contents copyright Andre' Hagestedt
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