Flying Cloud Trip Report
3/2 - 3/12/97 (Includes Tortola Stay)
by Sandy Miltich (miltichm@tir.com)
Sunday
This was our first time in the British Virgin Islands and our second
Windjammer Cruise. After visiting family in St. Maarten, we departed
Sunday morning via Liat with two bags and a case of Mount Gay 1.14
liters. We had to pay $16 overweight fee and $24 departure tax - not
cheap to leave that island. Landed at quiet Beef Island Airport, queued
up at customs and this is a first - was asked by the attendant to
contribute to her church fund to aid Hurricane Luis victims - two years
later yet. We were sure we had no contraband but who knew what she
would do to our case of rum - so we caved and gave.
It was 2:00 P.M. when the taxi deposited us at the pier with rum and
luggage. Met two other couples who’d been on the pier with their
luggage since noon. They offered to watch ours while we walked to the
Roti Palace for what else - a roti. It was so quiet and peaceful we
knew we’d like this island. Back at the pier we relieved the others and
gave them directions to the Roti Palace. By this time the place had
closed but the people were nice enough to re-open for them. The launch
finally relieved us of our luggage so we walked to the hotel where we
would be staying after the Windjammer Cruise - Hotel Castle Maria’s - to
check it out. It was Sunday quiet and the bar funky with lots of
varnished wood but beautiful grounds. We decided it would be all right,
maybe. We spent some time relaxing in the big leather chairs drinking
Heineken (lager-ugh, seems only St. Maarten has pilsner) and reading.
Walked back to check on the 5:00 P.M. boarding and have a few more
drinks at Pusser’s. The first onslaught of passengers waiting for the
launch is nuts - hurry up, stand in line and wait. When the crowd had
thinned we took the launch. We were instructed in the proper way to
flush the toilet and take a shower. You don’t hit the thing that looks
like a flusher while on the toilet otherwise you are then showering.
Wouldn’t you know it, instinct took over and I got a quick cold shower
as I was exiting the toilet. That evening there was a steel band and
everyone got wound up trying to unwind. We retired at midnight, having
had a full week already.
Monday
Woke at our usual 7:30 for breakfast. It was rainy and windy at
Story-Time. That wind and at least one quick shower a day stayed with us
for a few days. In the islands you can see the rain come tracking
across the ocean and Mark got into the habit of doing weather for two
lovely ladies, who I think, thought he had a knack for predicting. For
the rest of the trip, they would check with him from wherever we were,
beach, restaurant, town. He was always ready - "30% chance of rain,
clearing shortly thereafter with clear skies for remainder of the day".
Anyway at Story-Time the captain asked us how many people had gotten an
unplanned shower in their bathroom. From the show of hands I didn’t
feel quite so stupid, especially when he asked how many people had
locked themselves in the toilet. Jim, later known as Organ Shorts, or
O.S. for short - but that’s another story - had to be released by his
bunk-mate. He was grateful there was another guy sharing the bachelor
quarters as he was starting to get panicky. Mark went into Road Town to
make phone calls, it rained off and on pretty good, so I ended up
reading and watching a Monty Python movie in the dining room with a
scattering of other passengers. We had a sunny, windy sail to Peter
Island where Captain Adrian did the required fire drill, anchored while
some swan off the boat until swizzle time at 5:00 P.M. We like to eat
late so we chose the second sitting for dinner. I retired early that
evening while Mark stayed up and got pretty ripped.
Tuesday
The ship was sailing and I went to breakfast alone - pancakes - ugh.
Story-Times as usual was charming, the captain is a very nice, competent
man from Shopshire, England and has that irresistible dry British
humor. We were at Manchioneel Bay on Cooper Island. He warned us not
to be afraid of Sammy, the barracuda, who promptly appeared - looking
for hand-outs I believe. The captain said barracuda are territorial and
will check you out if you are in their territory but will only eat you
if you are smaller than it and in the case of most of us we needn’t
worry. He also told us one family owned the island and had sold a
parcel of land to the resort there. On a previous voyage a couple from
the Flying Cloud had eaten lunch, had many fancy drinks at the resort
and afterwards sat in their lounge chairs on the beach and had been told
in very unfriendly terms to leave. Since then the captain discourages
passengers from fraternizing. We had a wet landing, walked through the
gate, up the private road, to snorkel around the point described by the
captain as good snorkeling. As soon as we entered the water we saw a
manta ray cruising lazily by. I was close enough to shore that I was
not intimidated. It was awesome - he didn’t stick around though. The
snorkeling was excellent and not cloudy although the sea was a bit rough
as the wind was still high. Lunch was on the beach, then some quiet
snorkeling near the resort where we saw a small barracuda. We found a
quiet spot so Mark could nap. When the rain came, almost everyone took
the 3:00 launch back, except the two ladies who listened to Mark’s
prediction of clearing skies, Tasoula, few crew and few passengers.
Mark got cornered by a conversation-hungry member of the family who
owned the island. He was very friendly, offered us shelter in the tiny
souvenir shop. I believe he may have been in the service, but not every
war from Korea on, including Desert Storm and the Grenada intervention.
Beer was being given away at that point and we were determined to wait
it out after being confined to the ship the previous day . The sun did
appear and we stayed until last launch back for swizzles. The only
draw-back to staying, the early passengers had used all the hot water so
it was cold showers for us but I’m sure we needed them. This was the
BLT costume party night. Mark took the easy way out this year - I’d
bought him a tuxedo T-shirt. This was also the captain’s costume, so I
took a picture of the two together. I cannot go into the creativity,
but next morning at Story-Time the captain observed how many had come
out of the closet last night. The judging was held before dinner. On
the Yankee Clipper the party is after dinner and doesn’t seem so
frenzied. Six of one, ½ dozen of the other I guess. We hung out at
the bar topside for awhile, Mark did some dancing with Tasoula and
Jerry. After I went to bed he did shots of tequila with Jerry and Jim,
AKA O.S.
Wednesday
Slept in somewhat and woke to a breakfast of spicy corned beef hash,
definitely not British. The winds had quieted somewhat and we headed
for Virgin Gorda. The Baths are charming, the natural aspect, awesome.
We walked and crawled to an area where we could get into the water, even
in shallow water there were black sea urchins and lovely fish. We
headed out and around the immense boulders with waves crashing, took
some pictures and I think the swell must have been pretty good because I
felt out of control. Without flippers I became slightly panicky and
began hyper-ventilating; could reason it out but do nothing to control
it. It was weird because I felt like two persons and was still enjoying
the thrill. A final push by Mark between two boulders suddenly brought
me back to where we’d started and I was sorry it was over. We may not
have been so far out as I thought and just lost my bearings. My sense
of direction is terrible anyway. But definitely not to be tried alone.
We walked on around the boulders on shore and came to the lovely little
beach of Devil’s Bay, then back the way we’d climbed for a beer on the
beach while we watched a litter of young cats make themselves
comfortable. Then to Mad Dog’s verandah to eat lunch while enjoying the
lush garden. We took the bus tour which was well worth the $12 per
person and included pour-your-own-rum punch. They took us to the
Copper Mines and all I could think of was those poor people had such a
view coming and going to their job of scouring around underground. This
would be heaven for a rock hound. The view from the highest point of
Virgin Gorda showed beautiful North Sound with Necker Island, Prickly
Pear, Eustatia and resorts of Bitter End and Biras. We ----drove by
Savannah Beach - we were separated during Story-Time and missed our
chance to rent a car and thus our chance to visit. Another time. The
tour ended at Little Dix Resort for a bathroom break and ½ hr. on their
beach. We were so tuckered out we lost track of time, didn’t notice our
group leaving and almost missed the bus back. Back to the ship in time
for swizzles, quick nap, shower, dinner. Mark crashed and I read until
midnight. This was a sleepless night for me.
Thursday
Up at 7:30, breakfast, Story-Time. Took pictures of Isis. I asked the
captain her name and not hearing correctly he answered Adrian. We had a
good laugh at that. The captain will tell you she’s called Cooking Fat
by the crew or transpose the first letters. Today we are at Green Cay -
the perfect deserted island, snorkeling here was great and very
accessible. We were told lunch would be served on the beach and upon
hearing the bell we were to turn around and start walking. We had BIG
burgers, funny how that salt water makes you hungry no matter how many
meals you have and how little you do. Also hungry was a land crab who
came for crumbs but ended up being smuggled aboard by Mark and became
the dark horse entry in the crab races that night. Before it’s moment
of glory, it exercised in the bathroom and there was a moment of panic
finding it again as it had wedged itself under the top rim of the
toilet. Mark borrowed nail polish and it became #13 and joined the
others. Some of the passengers asked to bet on #13 and Tasoula had to
keep explaining there were only #1 - #9. When it was discovered, there
were discussions, odds were refigured, it choked and #5 was the winner.
By now we had anchored off Jost Van Dyke. Then it was off to Rudy’s
for lobster dinner, adding our name to the other graffiti on the walls
and a walk-about to check out the other bars. At Foxy’s we joined
crew-member, Julius, befriended earlier and discovered he was from
Dominica - an island we love. It was his first voyage so Mark dubbed
him "The Virgin". As the weather was better and time was getting short
we picked tonight to sleep on deck. Mistake! The late-night partyers
kept us awake, we were almost stepped on and when the breeze sprung up a
rain-shower sent us scurrying for our bunks.
Friday
Anchored today at Little Harbor, Peter Island. Snorkeling off the ship
looked great but not for us. We were content to watch the snorkelers
and the pelicans. Lunch on board was red snapper and salmon. The
salmon was definitely not the cold water variety so the snapper
excelled, having a delicate flavor. Sailed to Road Harbor late
afternoon and moored out for the Captain’s Dinner of prime rib with
flambe being served topsides and rightly so. When a cruise ship left
the pier we docked and our friends, Beth and Denny, who would be taking
the cruise on Sunday came on board for a nightcap.
Saturday
Denny came for us after breakfast at 9:30 - we didn’t think we could
hold him back any longer and we were anxious to check out the hotel.
This was picked out by me last summer from a brochure, location being
decided by Mark who wanted to be in town "where the action was". He’s
partial to pools because he can’t stand salt water drying on his body.
Go figure! Hotel Castle Maria turned out to be a dream - not to be
confused with Maria’s By The Sea (which is managed by a sister and I’m
sure a fine place also). It’s spotless, with large airy rooms, but only
20 or so of them and has lovely grounds. We had a beer on our spacious
verandah, unpacked and the guys went to the store while us gals checked
out the sunny pool with another couple from New Mexico, Lynn and
Gardner, who would be taking a bareboat with friends the next day. Then
Denny had to do a tour of the island. Went to Cane Garden Bay Beach for
a swim and watched the pelicans and frigate birds. Then to eat
island-cooking at the Shell Museum, unusual place, to Mount Sage for the
wonderful view, although somewhat hazy that day. Amazing how much cooler
it is up there. Then back to the hotel for a shower and dinner at Jolly
Roger. I’d made reservations via TravelTalk with Louis after hearing
the good reviews on that bulletin board. It turned out to be all it was
reputed to be. We had gourmet pizza, ribs, mahi and the best Caesar
salad I’ve had anywhere. I’m sure anything on that menu would have been
excellent. Ambiance was outstanding and the owner very nice. Sat at
dockside and listened to entertainment for awhile. Back at the hotel
Lynn, Gardner and newly-arrived friends were getting loose in the pool
with some pool toys. We retired to read awhile.
Sunday
The restaurant at the hotel is a separate enterprise run single-handedly
by a man from New York who’d been living in Tortola 2 ½ years and was
"never going back". Because the hotel owner doesn’t advertise much and
seems not to care if there are guests or not, it’s never filled to
capacity and therefore the restaurant on the outdoor balcony overlooking
healthy palm trees is always quiet. His breakfasts are reasonable and
great. One night we had pasta which was outstanding, accompanied by
out-of-this-world garlic bread. I have a feeling everything would be
excellent. Beth and I loafed at the pool while the guys went for ice
and to leave their luggage with the F.Cloud launch. Mark had taken over
rental and driving of the car. Denny was slightly hung-over and us
girls jammed into the back seat of the 4-wheel drive, stick-shift,
rag-top, jeep-type vehicle. Denny was uncertain of Mark’s ability,
especially when we almost side-swiped a pole, us girls were uncertain
of both. One was promptly nick-named "twit" and the other "spaz".
Driving up the mountain to Sky Room, Mark had his first beer of the day.
At the top ran into Patrick with female friend and another couple from
the ship who remarked they didn’t like the bar on the top deck very much
as it made viewing stars and sleeping out next to impossible. Then each
off to separate adventures. Over the dirt road to Smuggler’s Cove,
Denny not saying a work, but we all knew he was dubious, but not when he
saw the beach. We had picnic lunch on the beach, short snorkel, then to
Bomba’s for rum punch - "make you hot, hot and sexy". I was under the
impression it was just the free mushroom tea at midnight at Full Moon
Party to avoid. Since returning I have read that his punch also
contains essence of that same mushroom. All I can say, they were killer
drinks! Denny stuck to beer - by now he’s getting anxious to get to
"The Ship" I’m sure. So it’s back to the hotel for a swim, then to the
pier and we bade our friends "Adieu".
Monday
On our own, breakfast at the hotel while we view Beth and Denny via
binoculars on the boat doing Story-Time. Made sandwiches in our little
kitchenette and up to Sage Mountain again for some hiking, but missed
the look-out and Mark would not go back. Well, I was wearing
flip-flops, but didn’t know a hike was involved. Then to Elizabeth
Beach and we were in love with this beach. This was Dominion Day and
families were out enjoying, we picnicked and watched the kids playing in
the waves. Our next stop was Josiah’s Bay for a look. On the way back
to the hotel took picture of F.C. heading for Peter Island. After nap
and shower we headed for Clem’s By The Sea for a gorgeous sun-set and
ate papaya soup and conch fritters while the steel drums played. After
a wild ride over the mountain to Cane Garden Bay we arrived at Quito’s
only to find it closed. There was, however, a noisy private party going
on. Back to town to find the recommended Fish Trap Pub behind Village
Cay, not the outside part but inside. It reminded Mark of pubs we’d
loved in Britain. For snack had french fries with delicious English
malt vinegar. Finished the night at The Pub down the street from our
hotel. Nice ambiance on the water with dingy tie-up. Ended with dinner
in our room from the hotel restaurant. Yum!
Tuesday
We made omelets to use left-over ham, cheese, etc. and boiled eggs for
egg salad sandwiches. Our daughter and room-mate were in Cancun with
other friends for spring break, expected return on Saturday, when we
couldn’t reach her on Monday, we called her friend’s mother this morning
to discover their flight had been canceled - AV Atlantic failed 33
safety violations, the tour group, "Take a Break Vacations" (dubbed
"Take a Chance Vacations by Jenny) sort of vanished from the resort upon
news of this and they will arrive home today, 3 days late. On the way
down they’d flown right through a horrendous thunder-storm while all
other flights flew around - probably because they had no radar. Good
God! We headed into town to shop and picked up some Cubans at Little
Denmark for our neighbor and Grand Marnier at Tico for a member of our
wine-tasting group and sort of meandered through Crafts Alive. Most
shopping we’d done! Back to the hotel pool, burning our feet on the
tiles in the noon-day sun. Days later we’d wish for that misery again
after experiencing an ice-storm. Decided it was time for a our
egg-salad sandwiches on the balcony and a nap. After a shower we headed
out over Zion Road to Nan’s to buy one of her painted Jumbees. Because
we’d not been - checked out the much acclaimed Frenchman’s Cay - very
nice-looking, but empty, maybe too early for customers. Back the other
way and we were sort of lost, picked up a hitch-hiker who informed us
there was nothing else further on unless we were going to the Dupont
estate, she’d missed her ride so we took her to the main road. To Jolly
Roger for a chat with Louis during Happy Hour. Dinner at The Pub was
mediocre but busy with boat crowd, a few diners, and we were close to
the hotel.
Wednesday
What can I say! Breakfast at the hotel restaurant, pack, return the
car, taxi to the airport (over the roller-coaster hill route) where we
sat on the grass and fed banana to the chickens and felt sad to leave
this beautiful island. Uneventful trip home, except when the pilot
announced our destination as Cleveland instead of Detroit. Either way,
we were heading for the frozen North. It took him awhile before he came
on and corrected his mistake. Then 1 ½ hr. drive to our town, getting
to bed at 2:00 a.m.
Sandy M.
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