St. Martin/St. Maarten Trip Report March 1997
by Mark Sears
Hi everyone!!! Mindy, Tracy and I returned home last Sat
after 2 wonderful weeks in SXM. We left on Sat, 3/1 on AA's
9AM nonstop from JFK. Now we're no fans of AA, but we have
to admit that we had no experiences like many others here.
They boarded us at 8:30AM, backed out of the gate at 9:05 AM
and we were on our takeoff role at 9:30AM. Scheduled
arrival was for 2:04PM and the pilot told us we had a nice
tail wind so the flight would take only 3hours and 10
minutes. I always sit on the left-hand side of the aircraft
because of the arrival pattern into SXM. Well, about 1:30PM
well into our descent and there to our left I spotted
Prickley Cay, then we saw Anguilla, and next appeared the
north coast of SXM. What a sight!! We saw Marigot, Sandy
Ground, Baie Rouge, Baie Longue and then turned north
towards Maho and the airport. I can't tell you how my heart
felt at this point. We touched down at 1:40PM. As we
descended the steps I saw a NW 757, KIWI 727, SunCountry 727
and US 757. The line for immigration was a mile long; but
here is where it is good to travel with a 6 year old. The
people of SXM must not like to see young children wait too
long in line. We asked one of the women in uniform if we
could go up to the front, pointing to Tracy (as we had done
last year) and she told us sure...follow her. We went to the
far right side and walked up to the booth marked for only
for residents. No waiting... show our passports and we were
on our way. We don't check any luggage so we were out of
the airport in less then 10 minutes. We got our car, (the
usual Accent piece of crap) from Adventure, paying $210 per
week plus 8% tax. We were driving towards Sapphire Beach
Club and upon observing the sky and weather with wind
and sprinkles I thought about what Bruce and Edie had
reported and said to myself that they were right. Too much
clouds and wind. Let me take a moment to tell you what I
was able to find out about the "strange" weather on SXM
lately. Since the 3rd week of January there has been a
stubbern Bermuda high stuck in place. This kind of high
produces a lot of relatively high winds. Winds rotate
clockwise around high pressure areas. Based where SXM is in
relation to the high, the winds have been sweeping in from
the Northeast and east. This system is also responsible for
blocking the usually bad weather which we hav NOT seen on
the east coast this winter. We were very lucky in that by
about Thursday, 3/6 the high was being pushed out by a cold
front/storm sweeping off the eastern US coast and the
weather improved 1000%.
As others have said, the island looks real green and we
found a fair number of mosquitoes (SP?) this year. Both are
due to the above average rainfall for the past few months.
We spent our days going to beaches all around the island.
In the two weeks we drove almost 900 km or over 550 miles.
Funny how last year people stayed away from SXM in droves
because they were afraid of bad conditions from Luis. We
found the beaches to be in better shape last year then this.
Baie Rouge (our favorite) has lost some 8 to 10 feet (in
height) of sand and the part by the water is almost all huge
rocks. You can get into the water in 2 or 3 sections where
is is still sand, but it looks so different. And the maze
the land owner installed to try to keep the beach bars/chair
guys out is terrible. We only hope that the authorities
don't have to get a stretcher in there to get a sick person
out off the beach!!! Cupecoy comes and goes almost on a
daily basis. One day there is beach in front of Sapphire &
Ocean club and the next it moves to the far (clothing
optional) end. In front of Frank & Nina's there was only
about a 5' strip of sand. We couldn't even lie out at that
end of the beach. Frank and Nina have no chair and umbrella
rental business at this time. I feel for them. I also
wonder if they are getting tired of their business. A
couple of times we went over to their place to pick up some
sandwiches which we were going to take with us to some beach
for lunch. At 11:45AM or 12:15PM they weren't even there
yet! I guess 7 days a week is a lot for anybody.
Here's a quick rundown on our dining. #1 has hot to be.....
Mario's. No surprise there. We made reservations to go
there on WED before we left New York. The meal was great
and as we were leaving the restaurant we mad another
reservation for the following Thursday. This is why it
really pays to stay for 2 weeks (G) Both meals were GREAT. I
had their gnocci (sp?) with 3 cheeses for a starter and I
must say that this is now one of my favorite all time
dishes. We went to L'Auberge Gourmand and Christine is as
lovely as ever. The food was fine and we always have a good
time there. We decided to try DaLavio due to the good
mentions here
As I was saying we tried DaLivio due to you guys here and we
are now on the bandwagon. Had the veal chop and veal parm.
MAn were they both good. Tender and so full of flavor!!
Can't wait to go back there and do it again. We tried Bar
de la Mer in Marigot. The food was okay, but the service is
so disorganized. It was so hectic and as we were sitting
near the grill we saw how some orders come up and sit for at
least 10 minutes till the waiter fetches them and serves
them. In fact I ordered the red snapper, Mindy the lobster
and Tracy a pizza. My fish was sitting so long that when
the waiter brought it over I sent it back and got a new one.
There is a lot of action to see while sitting at the sidewalk
tables but we probably won't go back there just yet. We
went to Restaurant Taitu in Mount Vernon. We had been there
in July 1995 before hurricane Luis and enjoyed it so we were happy to
know that they were back. We had a nice meal and the
service was very good. We tried Tutta Pasta this trip and
I'd rate it a 6.5 out of 10. The service is pretty good and
the food is good, but not great. We did the Ren and Stimpy
thing...I like the place except I think the prices are way
too high for the quality of wine they serve. But overall, I
think the food and service are very good. We went to
Bistro Nu in Marigot and Jean Claude is doing a splendid
job. The atmosphere is wonderful...just like being in the
French countryside. Their food is delicious and not
overpriced. One place we went which does not get any press
here is Captain Olivers. We usually go there for lunch and
had a really nice meal this time (as usual) Salad nicoise
for $6.95 and a cheeseburger and fries for $7.99. Use your
TI Gourmet for a free rum punch, look at the sea turtles,
sharks, crocodiles, tucans, parrots, monkeys etc. and you
have a really nice time. We went to Mr. Busby's which was
just okay. They don't know how to make I rum punch. In
fact I had some in my Heinekin bag and I gave the waitress
a glass to show her how it should taste. Lunch was $40 there
for some fish, ribs, cheeseburger and 2 drinks and a coke.
The beach (other end of Dawn Beach) by Busby's is
nice...umbrella and chair rentals available. The sand must
be artificial because it was sooo soft. Like baby powder.
We went to Pinel Island for the first time. A nice place
especially with small kids and the water is real shallow
pretty far out and it's real calm. The "find" of the trip
was Piciolo Cafe (ex Drew's Deli) The presentation and food
quality was wonderful. 2 starters, 2 main courses, 2
desserts, 1 bottle of H2O, 1 bottle of wine, 1 coke and 1
coffee was $57 (plus $10 tip). Their phone is 87 32 47.
It's very small so a reservation is a must. Highly
recommended.
We saw (but did not meet) Ethel and Jerry at Heeru's. She
didn't tell us who they were until after they left. Last
year we met Jim and Janet at Touch of Gold. Why don't we
ALL make plans to meet there all at once some time? (VBG)
Mindy traded in a bracelet and earnings for a much nicer
bracelet and on another visit later in the trip bought a new
diamond and sapphire ring (both beautiful). Tracy got here
second gold bracelet there too. I'm the only one who came
away empty handed. But that's not really true...I did get
a new earring (a small hoop). The island was really great
as usual and we can't wait to return. The 2 weeks felt like
3 or 4 days. WE are so relaxed there and it's just like
home. Oh yeah... our return on AA was okay too. Funny how
I don't like to think about the return. Well that's about
it. hope we didn't bore you guys too much. If we have to
be here it's nice to be able to talk about our favorite
place with wonderful people like you. See ya,
Mark, Mindy & Tracy